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1. Background

Mastering stroke patterns in microblading can seem overwhelming, especially for those new to the field. In the early 2020s, the ability to execute complex ideal shape and stroke patterns was often viewed as a hallmark of expertise. Many trainers and artists proudly displayed their intricate designs as proof of their skill, suggesting that these patterns and shapes were key to creating flawless brows. However, the industry's viewpoint has since evolved, emphasizing a different approach to mastering these patterns.

To gain deeper insights into this shift, we engaged with 28 leading microblading artists - 19 from the European Union and nine from the UK and two from the US. Their shared approaches and techniques, actively used in their work, offer valuable perspectives for novice and experienced artists.

The feedback from these experts reveals a more nuanced understanding of shapes and stroke patterns. Rather than focusing solely on complexity, the current industry trend leans towards adapting patterns to individual client needs, emphasizing customization over standardization. This article delves into these evolving techniques, providing practical advice for artists seeking to refine their microblading and hairstrokes skills with a modern approach.

2. Different Approaches

Brow-Centric vs. Client-Centric Approaches

In the world of microblading and hairstrokes, artists generally adopt one of two approaches to crafting brow patterns: the brow-centric approach and the client-centric approach. These methodologies reflect the conventional and holistic philosophies in shape and pattern creation.

The Conventional Approach: Precision in Shape and Pattern Replication

In the conventional approach, the focus is on the accuracy of replicating a predefined shape and pattern. Here, a specific pattern designed by an expert serves as a blueprint, complete with a set number of strokes and elements. When applying this method, artists precisely aim to replicate the blueprint on their client’s brows. This technique has been popular for years and continues to be taught in various training programs. It emphasizes the creation of perfectly symmetrical brows, each mirroring the meticulously executed original pattern.

Implementing the Conventional Approach

When using this method, the artist precisely follows the predetermined pattern elements - initial, transition, upper, and lower lines. The pattern is directly transferred onto the client’s brow area. This approach can yield excellent results if the pattern naturally aligns with the client’s brow structure and facial features. However, deviations can result in less satisfactory outcomes.

The Holistic Approach: Tailoring to Individual Characteristics

Conversely, the holistic or client-centric approach prioritizes the unique characteristics of each client’s brows over a fixed pattern. This method seeks to discover the “unique fingerprint” of the client’s brow area, acknowledging the individuality in each client’s facial features and hair growth patterns.

Delivering Shapes and Patterns Holistically

The focus here is not on achieving perfect symmetry but on enhancing the client's natural brow shape and structure. The artist adapts and modifies the pattern elements to suit the client’s unique features, aiming for a result that appears as natural and harmonious as possible with the client’s overall facial aesthetics.

Thus, while the conventional approach emphasizes precision in shape proportions and pattern replication, the holistic approach adapts shapes and patterns to the individual nuances of each client. This distinction underscores the importance of understanding both methodologies for microblading artists, allowing them to choose the approach that best suits their client's needs and expectations.

3. Skull and bone structure

Integrating Bone Structure into Brow Design

In the holistic approach to microblading and brow design, it is essential to consider more than just the brow as a standalone feature. A comprehensive analysis involves understanding the brow with its surroundings, particularly the skull shape of the client. This encompasses three critical aspects: softening the brow ridge, visually "shortening" the forehead, and considering the impact of the orbital bone on the distance between the eyes.

Brow Ridge: Balancing Facial Features

The brow ridge above the eye sockets plays a crucial role in facial aesthetics. A pronounced brow ridge can give a more masculine appearance and create the illusion of deeper-set eyes. This is more noticeable than the flatter brow ridges often seen in Asian facial structures. A prominent brow ridge from the front might cast a shadow over the eyes.

In brow artistry, it's important to understand the natural contours of the brow ridge. Over-emphasizing a strong brow ridge with a bold start to the brow can unintentionally convey a stern or severe look. To counter this, raise the highest point and tail of the brow arch. This technique lifts the eye area, softening the impact of a prominent brow ridge.

Forehead Bone: Creating Harmonious Proportions

The forehead or frontal bone extends from the brow ridge to the hairline and influences facial proportions. For clients with a higher forehead, it's essential to design a brow pattern that doesn't elongate the forehead further. Avoid basing the brow shape on the client's hairstyle, as it's not a permanent feature.

One effective strategy for creating the illusion of a shorter forehead is to design angular and thicker brows. A fuller brow pattern with prominent middle sections can visually counterbalance a high forehead.

Orbital Bone: Guiding Brow Direction

The shape and prominence of the orbital bone, which outlines the eye socket, affect how the eyes are perceived—larger, smaller, deeper-set, or more prominent. For brow artists, the orbital bone is a key reference in determining the proper direction of the brow pattern.

When the distance between the eye sockets is wider, and there's more space than the width of one eye, the Golden Ratio can be applied to decrease the distance between the start of the brows by about 30-40% (38.2% following the Golden Ratio). Here, the front lines of the brow pattern can be more pronounced and longer.

Conversely, if the eyes are closer together and there isn't enough space for the width of an eye between them, avoid emphasizing this closeness with long brow patterns that further reduce the space between the brows. In such cases, the front lines should be softer and less defined to create a more balanced look.

Therefore, a holistic approach to brow design involves carefully analyzing the client's bone structure and adapting the brow pattern to complement their unique facial features. This method ensures the creation of brows that enhance the client's natural beauty while maintaining harmony with their overall facial structure. This knowledge forms the cornerstone of the Holistic PMU approach, equipping artists with the necessary insights to craft patterns that look aesthetically pleasing and resonate harmoniously with each client's unique facial features.

Debunking the Myth of Randomness

For novice artists, the complexity of crafting the perfect brow pattern might seem overwhelming, almost random. However, precision and understanding are key despite the myriad of factors involved. To truly exercise artistic freedom in brow creation, an artist must first master the fundamental principles of brow mapping and the intricacies of microblading and hairstroke designs. The concept that patterns can be modified can never be an excuse for creating random patterns with no base design. Next. Let us explore the holistic approaches to pattern design.

4. First key: Different Backbone types

Versatility in Backbone Types

In the modern, individualized approach to brow design, there are no predefined backbone types to select from. Instead, artists rely on guiding principles for shaping and positioning the backbone. The starting point of the backbone should align with the natural direction of brow hair growth, typically at the point on the upper arch where hair begins to descend.

The endpoint of the backbone offers room for creativity and is determined by considering both the orbital bone's shape and the hair growth direction. The span between the start and end of the backbone is pivotal—it dictates the pattern lines' direction. Shorter distances lead to straighter, more vertical lines, while longer distances create softer, more horizontal lines. The ideal endpoint generally falls between the lower arch’s point 6 and endpoint 3.

Crucially, a backbone should not be linear and straight, even when vertical. The optimal shape resembles a stretched “S,” a detail that significantly influences the naturalness of the pattern.

Individualized Backbone Shapes for Each Brow

It's not uncommon for each brow to require a distinct backbone shape. While this might seem unconventional to traditional PMU microblading practitioners, it’s vital for achieving facial symmetry and aesthetic balance. This approach acknowledges that each brow is unique and requires a tailored approach, moving away from the notion of one-size-fits-all in brow artistry.

5. Second key: Backbone's Significance

The backbone's role in shaping a brow pattern is fundamental. It forms the base for every other element of the brow, including the initial lines. This approach contrasts the traditional methods and aligns with the Holistic Permanent Makeup (PMU) philosophy, which emphasizes the uniqueness of each individual's “brow-print."

The Backbone as the Guide for All Other Lines

In the Holistic PMU approach, the pattern creation process doesn't start with the head of the brow, followed by the upper and lower lines. Instead, a proficient artist uses the backbone as a guide, considering its start, middle, and end points to dictate the direction of the rest of the brow.

A common error among microblading artists is a mismatch between the pattern lines and the direction of the backbone. When the lines in different brow areas—whether upper, lower, or initial lines - fail to harmoniously align with the backbone's endpoint, the natural look of the brow is compromised.

The Endpoint of the Backbone: A Crucial Element

Seasoned artists often cite a key principle for creating a near-perfect brow pattern: "Every line should be directed to end at the backbone's endpoint if extended naturally." Practically, this means when drawing a line, the artist visualizes its start at the actual beginning and its end at the backbone's endpoint. The line is executed with this trajectory in mind, lifting the blade at the right moment to finish the line.

This concept primarily applies to the upper lines. They should all naturally end at the backbone (unless they are beyond the backbone's endpoint, in which case they are directed towards the brow's end-point). However, not just the line's direction matters but also how these lines intersect with the backbone. The angle at which they meet the backbone is critical for the overall pattern quality. Ideally, all angles should be designed so that if extended, the lines would converge at the backbone's endpoint.

6. Third key: Pattern Density

Pattern density of Hairstrokes A Key to Professional Outcomes

One of the challenges in traditional microblading is managing pattern density. Artists often densely fill in lines based on a standard pattern, but real-life applications usually demand more nuanced adjustments.

The Misconception About Pattern Failure

It’s a common misconception that unsuccessful pattern healing is mainly due to anatomical reasons, such as skin type or oiliness. However, more often than not, the real issue lies in overly ambitious density goals. Here, the choice of practice material is crucial. While synthetic options like fake skin and latex are excellent for practicing dense patterns due to their durability and pigment absorption qualities, human skin behaves differently. It is softer, less efficient at absorbing pigment, and retains a certain moisture level.

Understanding Skin Moisture and Adjusting Accordingly

To accurately gauge the skin's moisture level, some artists, including experienced professionals, use hydration patch tests or other methods to measure actual skin moisture (g/cm²). A simple touch, visual observation, or even querying clients about their skin drying routines often proves insufficient. Therefore, relying on empirical data for moisture assessment is essential in planning pattern density.

Strategic Density Planning

Given these considerations, many artists consciously opt for a lower initial density, even if their skill level allows for more. The reasoning is simple yet strategic: they prefer to observe how the skin heals post-procedure before deciding on the final density. This cautious approach and the previously discussed backbone strategies form the cornerstone of creating a truly professional microblading pattern.

Understanding and adapting to the unique characteristics of human skin, particularly its moisture content and healing response, is key to determining the appropriate pattern density. This approach, informed by empirical data and careful observation, enables artists to deliver microblading results that look natural and heal effectively.

7. Conclusions

Embracing the Holistic Approach in Microblading

In traditional microblading, the primary goal is often to create a "perfect pattern," where both brows are intended to be identical mirror images. However, the Holistic PMU approach takes a more nuanced stance, recognizing and respecting the unique facial features of each client and customizing brow patterns to complement these individual characteristics.

Beyond Conventional Techniques: A Focus on Anatomical Factors

Critical anatomical elements such as the brow ridge, forehead, and orbital bone significantly shape the brow pattern in the Holistic PMU approach. These factors are crucial in determining the pattern's intensity, its alignment with measured outlines, and the overall shape of the backbone in the design.

Key Criteria Distinguishing Holistic PMU

The holistic approach differentiates itself from traditional methods through several pivotal criteria.

Individualized Backbone Shape. Unlike the one-size-fits-all mindset of traditional microblading, the Holistic PMU approach tailors the backbone shape for each brow, acknowledging that they can vary even within the same individual.
Pattern Lines Guided by the Backbone. In this approach, the direction of every line within the brow pattern is influenced by the endpoint of the backbone, ensuring a cohesive and natural flow.
Skin-data-Driven Pattern Density. Professionals in Holistic PMU base pattern density on factual data and skin analysis rather than solely on their technical capability. They often choose a lower density than what might be technically feasible on materials like latex to enhance retention and healing. This cautious approach aims for optimal healing and longevity of the brow pattern.

Conclusion: A Tailored Approach for Each Client

Thus, Holistic PMU moves away from the rigidity of traditional microblading techniques. It emphasizes a tailored approach, considering the individual's unique facial structure to create brow patterns that are aesthetically pleasing and harmonious with the client's natural features. This method ensures that the results are as individual as the clients themselves, epitomizing the essence of personalized beauty in microblading.

Advanced approach to Microblading and Hairstrokes shape and patterns

1. Background

2. Different Approaches