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How to choose the first machine (A Beginners Guide)

Nov 15, 2023, Update: Nov 15, 2023, author: Powderbrows.com / Holistic PMU
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"As a starting artist in the PMU industry, one might instinctively believe that acquiring an expensive machine is synonymous with guaranteed success. However, this article aims to dispel that myth. It emphasizes that while the machine is a vital tool, it's just one element of a much broader, holistic approach to semi-permanent makeup. For beginners, the key is to avoid the trap of over-investing in their first machine, focusing instead on a balanced combination of skill, technique, and suitable equipment."

1. Background


This article is informed by insights gathered from 37 interviews with experienced PMU artists specializing in powder brows services. Each of these artists boasts over four years of experience in the field. The group comprises 26 artists from various EU countries, eight from the UK, and 3 from the US. Notably, all these professionals are among the top earners in their respective areas. A significant aspect of their journey is that they began their careers in semi-permanent makeup without any pre-existing client base in this niche. They effectively built their practices from the ground up, starting with no initial advantages in the field.

The primary objective of this article is to focus on optimal machine choices for beginners in the field of powder brows. The insights and recommendations presented are based on these accomplished artists' real-world experiences and successes, offering valuable guidance for those embarking on their journey in semi-permanent makeup.

2. Principles of choosing the machine


Starting artists often navigate a sea of confusion when embarking on the journey of selecting their first pigmentation machine. The primary challenge lies in how information about these machines is presented.

Understanding the Bias in Machine Information

Many listicles and comparison videos available to students are influenced significantly by affiliate programs. These arrangements, driven by monetary interests, can skew the information towards certain brands or models. As a result, the rankings and recommendations in these resources are often less an indicator of a machine's quality and more a reflection of a manufacturer's advertising investment. It's imperative for artists to approach these sources with a healthy degree of skepticism.

The Reality of Sponsored Advertisements

It's not uncommon for producers to secure higher rankings in listicles through financial means, making these lists more a measure of advertising spend than of product quality. This practice extends to trainers in the field. If a trainer is part of an affiliate program, this relationship will likely influence their recommendations to students or the public. The key for artists is to avoid naivety when selecting a machine to understand the potential biases behind recommendations.

Navigating smart marketing tactics

Sponsored presentations of machines often employ subtle manipulation tactics rather than overt distortions. While some artists might blatantly overraise a machine that offers them the highest affiliate income, a more common approach involves a nuanced narrative. This storyline typically follows a pattern: the artist struggles with imperfect results, tests various machines, and then discovers a particular machine (usually linked to an affiliate deal) that magically improves their outcomes.

Having observed numerous such presentations over the past 15 years, it's clear that some artists are adept at delivering these talking points that appear genuine and relatable. They often present their journey as an exploratory process that organically led them to a "game-changing" machine. However, even the most convincing and seemingly objective comparisons should be taken with a grain of salt. The reality is that many of these endorsements, no matter how authentic they seem, are influenced by sponsorship.

Thus, for artists starting in the field, it's crucial to develop an informed, critical perspective when choosing a pigmentation machine, and this involves recognizing the potential biases in information sources, understanding the subtle tactics of sponsored content, and maintaining a healthy skepticism.

Being cautious before making large investments

Being cautious in investing in a PMU machine is critical, especially for starting artists. Experienced artists often have a history with various machines and understand that more expensive ones can deliver better results. High-end machines may offer technical advantages, such as power regulation sensors. The cost of PMU machines can vary significantly, with an initial investment ranging from a few hundred to several thousand dollars.

Skills Over Equipment

Despite the allure of high-end machines, starting artists must exercise caution in making substantial investments in equipment. Empirical evidence from artists indicates that a more expensive machine does not guarantee a tenfold improvement in results. In training sessions where trainers use the same machines as their students, the results are often superior compared to those achieved with high-end machines.

Holistic Approach to Equipment Choice

Consistent with the Holistic PMU principles discussed on powderbrows.com, an artist should view their machine as one of many factors contributing to the quality of the final result. The choice of machine is important, but its impact is comparable to other crucial decisions like selecting the appropriate pigment for skin type and oiliness, choosing the right color, and employing suitable pigmentation techniques, speed, and needle cartridges. Errors in any of these areas can significantly affect the outcome, regardless of the machine used.

Branding and Client Perception

The belief that clients will recognize and appreciate the use of a high-end machine is a misconception. Clients typically do not know which machine an artist uses before booking an appointment, and showcasing this on social media might generate skepticism rather than attract clients. One can imagine patients being rather suspicious when the doctors try to convince them of their skills by presenting the best scalpels and other equipment they use. Studies have shown that most clients cannot differentiate between high-end and low-cost machines, and their primary concern is the end result, not the equipment used to achieve it.

Prudent Investment Strategies

The conclusion for artists, especially those starting out, is to first generate income from procedures before investing in an expensive machine. Many seasoned artists recommend this approach. If procedure income is sufficient, then purchasing a high-end machine becomes a viable business investment. Conversely, investing heavily in equipment before establishing a steady income stream can be naive, as even the best machines do not necessarily enhance procedure quality or aid in attracting clients. The most reasonable choice for beginners is to start with a more affordable machine.

3. How to select a beginner machine


When selecting a first pigmentation machine, artists should consider five key criteria.

  • Stroke height
  • Weight
  • Compatibility with all cartridges
  • Power
  • Price

Let's delve into each of these aspects.

4. Stroke Height


Understanding the stroke height is essential when selecting a low-end PMU machine, as these typically feature a fixed stroke height. The stroke height refers to the range of movement of the needle dictated by the stroke wheel within the machine. Lower-end machines have a predetermined stroke setting, unlike more expensive models where the stroke wheel can be exchanged.

Typical Stroke Heights and Their Classifications

Machines are generally categorized based on their stroke height as follows:
  • Short Stroke: 1.8-2.5mm
  • Medium Stroke: 3.0-3.5mm
  • Long Stroke: 4mm and above

How Stroke Height Affects Performance

The stroke height is essentially the distance the needle moves during a cycle. A machine with a longer stroke delivers a stronger "punch." For instance, a 3mm stroke means the needle moves 1.5mm up and 1.5mm down in one complete cycle. The longer the stroke, the more forceful the needle's impact on the skin, akin to the difference in impact when dropping a metal ball from increasing heights.

Conversely, a machine with a smaller stroke wheel facilitates a quicker needle movement, resulting in more strokes per minute. However, it's important to note that speed is not the sole factor for effective pigmentation; the strength of the needle's impact is equally vital.

The Right Stroke Height for Beginners

For starting artists, a medium stroke height of 3mm is recommended. This versatile stroke height accommodates many procedures, including most powder brows, eyeliner, and lip techniques. It's suitably marked on the machine's packaging by the manufacturer. While a shorter stroke (around 2mm) is necessary for specific techniques like lipstick-style lips, medium stroke machines generally handle Aquarelle lips and nude effects, making them a practical choice for beginners.

Therefore, when selecting their first PMU machine, new artists should opt for a model with a medium stroke height of 3mm, balancing speed, and punch strength for a broad spectrum of semi-permanent makeup procedures.

5. Weight of the Machine


The weight of the pigmentation machine is an important consideration, as highlighted by many experienced artists. While some tattoo artists prefer heavier machines for their stability and control, the lighter weight of typical low-priced, entry-level machines can actually be advantageous, particularly for those just starting out or with a preference for lighter hand movements.

Advantages of a Lighter Machine

For artists with smaller hands or those who may find it challenging to manage heavier equipment, a lighter machine can be more comfortable and less fatiguing to use, especially during longer sessions. This ease of handling can be crucial for beginners who are still developing their technique and endurance.

Wireless Machines and Weight Considerations

While the weight of a machine is not directly related to it being wireless, there are benefits to a cordless design. A wireless machine can offer greater maneuverability and ease of use, which is particularly helpful for artists in their early stages of learning. From a hygiene perspective, the absence of cables can also simplify the workspace and reduce contamination risks.

Battery Life and Management

However, when using a wireless machine, one should be cautious about the battery life claims, especially for machines manufactured in Asia. The actual battery life may not always live up to the specifications stated. Therefore, having a spare battery is a wise strategy. This ensures that you can continue working uninterrupted without the inconvenience of having to stop mid-procedure to recharge or connect the machine to a power source.

Therefore, consider the weight and how it aligns with your physical comfort and procedural style while selecting a machine. Additionally, for wireless machines, be prepared with a backup battery to maintain consistent operation during procedures. These considerations will help ensure a smoother, more comfortable experience for both the artist and the client.

6. Cartridge Compatibility


Before purchasing a machine, ensuring it is compatible with all standard cartridge types is crucial. Some high-end machine manufacturers design their handpieces to accept only their brand’s cartridges or those from specific manufacturers. Surprisingly, this practice isn't exclusive to premium machines; some lower-end models also employ this restrictive approach.

You should still use the best cartridges

A critical point for beginners is that even if you start with a more affordable, lower-end machine, it should still accommodate high-quality cartridges from well-known, reputable brands. Using the best cartridges available is essential for achieving optimal results, regardless of the machine's price point. Hence, cartridge compatibility is a key factor to consider when selecting your first pigmentation machine.

7. Power of the Machine


The power output of a pigmentation machine is a crucial factor to consider, particularly in relation to its stroke height. Even if a machine has the appropriate stroke height, such as 3.0mm, it must also have a power unit capable of delivering sufficient force for effective pigmentation.

Power Units and Handpieces

If the machine features a handpiece that connects to an external power unit, typically, there’s more flexibility and control. Artists can adjust the voltage settings, usually between 4.8 to 5.0 volts, to suit various procedures. This setup often allows for more consistent power delivery and is a preferred option among many professionals.

Wireless Machines and Built-in Power Units

The challenge arises with lower-end wireless machines that have built-in power units. The speed settings on these machines are often visible on the top part, but this doesn't always provide a complete picture of the machine's power capabilities. A common issue with such machines is that they may not provide a consistently strong enough "punch." This is especially true for lower-end models, which might lack the robust power output required for precise and effective work.

Unfortunately, machine specifications don’t always clearly indicate the actual power output. They might list the speed – how many times the needle moves up and down per minute – but this doesn't necessarily equate to the strength or consistency of the needle's punch.

Conducting Preliminary Research

It's advisable to conduct thorough research before settling on a particular machine, especially a wireless, lower-end model. This might include seeking reviews from other artists, particularly those who have used the machine in question, or consulting more detailed technical reviews that assess the machine’s performance under various conditions.

Therefore, while the stroke height of a machine is an important factor, the power output is equally crucial. It’s important to ensure that the machine you choose is not "too weak" for the procedures you plan to perform. This consideration is particularly vital for artists who opt for wireless machines with built-in power units.

8. Price Considerations


When it comes to the pricing of your first pigmentation machine, caution and a balanced approach are key. It is advisable to steer clear of the very cheapest options. Often, the quality differential between the lowest-priced machines is negligible, and opting for the absolute cheapest can lead to compromised performance and durability.

Navigating Price Variability

Be mindful of identical machines being marketed under different brand names at varied price points, especially on large online retail platforms. This is a common marketing tactic where the same device is repackaged and sold at significantly different prices, often justified by superficial branding differences rather than any actual quality or functionality enhancements.

Determining a Reasonable Price Range

A reasonable price range for beginners is between USD 100-200. Within this bracket, you can generally find a stable, lightweight, and wireless machine, offering a good balance of functionality and ease of use. These machines typically support a variety of cartridges, allowing for versatility in your initial practice.

An attractive woman on the left and a list of criteria the beginner's machine has to meet on the right (stroke 3.0mm, light, compatible, enough power, price 200-300 USD) on the right.

Practicality for Beginners

Such a machine is a practical choice for those starting out. It provides the necessary capabilities to perform initial procedures effectively without the need for a substantial financial investment. This range is particularly suitable for artists who are still honing their skills and are not yet ready to commit to more expensive, advanced equipment.

Future Considerations

As you gain experience and your business grows, you may find that your needs evolve. Investing in a higher-end machine might become a viable option at that stage. More advanced machines can offer additional features, greater precision, and enhanced durability, which may be beneficial as you expand your range of services and client base.

Choosing the right machine is about finding the best fit for your current needs and skill level within a reasonable budget. It's about making a strategic investment that supports your growth as a semi-permanent makeup artist, keeping in mind that your equipment needs may change and evolve as you progress. As many seasoned artists have said, buy the next machine when your procedures have paid for it, not before that.

9. Conclusions


For those just beginning their journey in the powder brows industry, it's a common misconception that success hinges on possessing an expensive, high-end pigmentation machine. This belief is often reinforced by promotional materials from machine producers and comparison videos by artists who benefit from affiliate sponsorships. However, this perspective is misguided.

Adopting the Holistic PMU approach, which considers the procedure from the angles of chemistry, physics, biology, and psychology, it's clear that the machine is merely one component of a larger framework. While it plays a significant role (especially from a physics standpoint), it's not more crucial than other factors like choosing the right pigment (chemistry), understanding skin oiliness (biology), selecting suitable colors (chemistry and physics), and employing appropriate pigmentation techniques, speeds, and needle cartridges (physics).

The impact of an expensive machine on securing more client bookings (a facet of sales and marketing psychology) is often overstated and, in many cases, nonexistent.

When selecting your first machine, avoiding overspending is advisable, as machines in the lower price range can still yield high-quality results. Experienced artists recommend focusing on the following criteria for a starter machine:

  • Stroke Height: Opt for a medium stroke height of 3mm.

  • Weight: Choose a lighter machine for ease of handling and reduced fatigue.

  • Cartridge Compatibility: Ensure the machine is compatible with universal cartridge types.

  • Power: The machine should have enough power to deliver a consistent and effective “punch."

  • Price Range: Aim for a machine priced between USD 100-200.

Many seasoned artists agree that starting with a machine that meets these specifications and correct practice in other areas will enable you to generate enough income to invest in a higher-end machine later on. Using the revenue from your procedures for equipment upgrades is prudent, rather than prematurely investing in expensive machinery. Success in the powder brows business depends on a combination of factors, with the machine being just one part of the equation. It's important not to fall into the trap of naively believing that the machine alone is the bottleneck to a thriving business.
 
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Comments
 
Zoe
Thursday, Nov 16, 2023

Helpful and good article. Absolutely objective in my mind! I am so fed up with the promotional absurdity that so many artists are engaged in!


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