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1. Background

Many of our students have been curious about the evolution of microblading over the years. This article will focus on the most up-to-date approaches for achieving better microblading results in 2023-2024. We've collected insights from 21 seasoned microblading artists, each with over five years of experience in the industry. Most of these artists are based in EU countries, with six currently working in the UK and three in the US. Interestingly, despite their diverse locations, the artists universally agree on how the field of microblading has evolved and improved over time.

2. Lighter approach, inorganic pigments

An attractive woman on the left and three piles of powder on the right: white, dark brown, and light brows.

In recent years, the microblading industry has seen significant advancements, making the procedure both safer and less invasive. This is why most artists now lean towards using inorganic or hybrid pigments that are based on inorganic compounds. These pigments allow for yearly retouching without causing any scarring.

Fading to brownish tones

With modern techniques, the color quality remains consistent throughout all the healing stages. Additionally, as the pigment fades over time, it transitions into light brown tones. This eliminates the risk of the brows turning red or blue.

Thus, many artists who explored microblading years ago still have a false opinion that the procedure is related to the heavy tramatization of skin with the blade. This is not the case anymore; it is done much more lightly.

3. Use of Golden Ratio

The face of a black woman with the golden ratio tool is placed on top of her brow on the left. An attractive woman smiling on the right.

While the golden ratio tool is still commonly used for mapping out brows, experienced artists know that it's not always the final word. For instance, let's talk about the starting lines of the brows. If the space between the eyes is wider than the width of one eye, artists might place the starting lines of the brows closer together than what the golden ratio suggests. Specifically, the golden ratio recommends that this distance be 38.2% of the space between the tear channels. Conversely, if the distance between the eyes is narrower, the starting lines of the brows may need to be set a bit wider apart.

Holistic approach

Taking a holistic approach is crucial, considering the entire face as unified. While the golden ratio offers a solid foundation, the final touches rely on the artist's expertise and judgment. So, it's safe to say that although the golden ratio remains a valuable tool, it shouldn't be viewed as an absolute measure.

4. Using the skull structure to map

An attractive woman is on the left, and a picture of a human skull with labels of different bones is on the right.

Nowadays, brow mapping is not just about following standard measurements like the golden ratio. Experienced artists also pay close attention to a client's skull structure.

"Bigger" eyes, "shorter" forehead

For instance, artists can make someone with a larger forehead appear smaller by not mapping the brows too thinly. Likewise, the size of the eyes can be visually altered through brow mapping. Eyes can look bigger when the brows are not positioned too high or overly arched at their highest point.

It's essential also to consider the hairline and not hesitate to touch the client's skull for better physical mapping accuracy. For example, you can still find the endpoints of the brows by palpating the temples and locating the ridge of the orbital bone.

The main idea is that soft tissues like the nostrils, nose, and ears are not as precise for mapping as the skull itself. It's all about combining these bone structure cues with specific details about the client to get the best results.

5. More freedom with brow shapes

In today's microblading world, there's more room for customization than ever before, especially regarding brow shape. While certain guidelines based on the golden ratio remain important—like the horizontal distance between the start of the brow and its highest point—artists now have the freedom to make their own choices about other aspects of the design.

One of these aspects is the height of the brow's highest point. The decision is usually based on the client's unique facial features and the specific style of microblading being used.

Soft Ombré Brows shape

In the past, brows were typically designed to become thinner from the beginning to the end gradually. But that's not a hard rule anymore. For instance, if an artist opts for a European Soft Ombré Brows style, which features a much straighter lower line, then the brows might not taper off as much. In such cases, the artist can create a bolder, more defined look that doesn't strictly follow the old "thinning out" rule.

This individualized approach allows artists to better cater to their clients'’ needs and preferences.

6. Beginnings - No mirror images

In the past, the focus was on making the beginnings of the brows as identical as possible. In some cases, the artist even carefully cleaned one brow beginning when doing the pattern to the other or did the beginning simultaneously so as not to miss a line. Some even took pride in the fact that when counted, the number of lines in the brow beginnings was exactly the same.

No two brows are exactly the same

Now, the approach has shifted towards understanding natural hair growth patterns. Instead of aiming for perfect symmetry, artists now intentionally introduce subtle differences to achieve a more natural look.

This new philosophy extends to the entire brow, not just the beginning. For instance, if a client has different points where the upper brow hair starts to grow downward on each brow, then the "backbones" of the brows can also be slightly different. This mimics natural variations and results in a more authentic appearance.

7. Pattern - Clarity and hairstrokes

A close-up picture of two brows and underneath a close-up picture of one brow done in microblading technique on the left, an attractive smiling woman on the right.

In the past, many artists aimed to demonstrate their skill by creating extremely tight patterns with lines very close to each other. This was often the result of extensive practice on latex or synthetic skin.

No extremely tight patterns

Today, the trend is toward a more natural pattern. Starting with fewer lines and a looser pattern is advisable during the initial procedure. This approach allows the artist to assess how the lines have healed when the client returns for a retouch. At that point, additional lines can be added. When done correctly, fewer lines ensure that the pattern doesn't become blurry over time. Instead, it maintains a clean, hairstyle-style appearance.

Similarly, there is no need to go for absolute symmetry; it is much more important to realize that each client is different and take time to analyze the direction of the growth.

8. Most solutions are combined

The lines between different brow techniques like microblading, shading, and powdering have blurred over time. Nowadays, many brow treatments are actually a combination of techniques. For example, using a Permanent Makeup (PMU) machine alongside microblading to enhance the final result is common.

However, it's important to note that the microblading pattern is usually created first before any powdering or other techniques are applied. This helps to ensure better retention of the pigment.

Also, the intensity of the initial microblading lines should be adjusted based on how much powdering will be added later. That's because the powdering process can darken the existing lines, as some of the pigment enters the freshly microbladed areas.

Lastly, if you plan to use a machine for additional work on the brows, the initial microblading pattern should be less dense. This allows further enhancement without making the brows look overly saturated or unnatural.

9. The principle of minimal damage

The focus of microblading has shifted toward causing minimal skin damage, making lighter microblading a viable option for clients who desire more frequent touch-ups, even sooner than the typical 12-month period.

To achieve this low-impact procedure, it's crucial to consider three key factors:

Firstly: clear view

The area where you're working should be absolutely clear. Gone are the days when the skin was a messy canvas filled with blood, lymph, pigment, proteins, and fluids. Today, cleanliness is crucial. Good lighting is also essential; wearing a headlamp could be beneficial. Also, hand placement is important so the artist can clearly see the blade's needles entering the skin.

Secondly: Proper 3-way stretching

The stretch of the skin is vital. A proper 3-point stretch should be implemented, which requires finding the right-hand position on the client's skull. This makes the skin tight enough to create lines with minimal trauma.

Thirdly: Initial lines with minimal pigment

Using only minimal pigment on the blade is important when making the incisions. The initial cuts aren't the primary means for pigment to enter the skin, so it's crucial to have just enough pigment to make the lines visible but not excessive.

By focusing on these aspects, artists can create brow patterns that are not only visually appealing but also less traumatic for the skin.

10. No or minimal numbing approach

The approach to numbing has also changed significantly. In the past, undergoing a microblading procedure without numbing would have been unthinkable for most clients due to the pain.

However, these days, artists frequently complete the entire procedure without any numbing at all. This is mainly because modern techniques are much lighter and less invasive than before.

The real anatomical need for numbing

Whether or not to use numbing often depends on the client's history of scarring. Pain during the procedure is usually caused by the blade touching nerve endings in previously scarred skin. If a client hasn't had any previous brow procedures, it's worth considering doing the procedure without numbing, as the results have been promising.

Many experienced artists have also noted that skipping the numbing process benefits pigment retention. Despite claims by manufacturers of numbing creams, these products can actually make pigment implantation more difficult. This is often due to the body's reaction to the numbing agents, which can cause the skin to tighten, complicating the procedure.

11. Skin butter and lubricants

Before starting the procedure, applying skin butter and lubricants is a good idea. These products help prepare the skin and make the pigment flow into the wounds easier.

'Some artists talk about a "vacuum effect," where the blade exiting the skin pulls the pigment into the dermis's basal membrane and upper layer. While this idea holds some scientific validity, it's not the whole story. Nevertheless, using skin butters and lubricants does help with pigment absorption.

When it comes to choosing the right product, preferences among professional artists vary. Some prefer silicone-based skin butter and lubricants, while others prefer natural options like shea butter. Although scientific analyses might suggest that silicone-based products are more effective, artists find this to be highly individual.

The key takeaway is that experimenting with different skin butter can improve the final result. It aligns well with the current emphasis on minimizing skin trauma during the procedure.

12. Calm rubbing and pigment masking

The basic principle behind techniques like microblading and Powder Brows is similar regarding pigment implantation. The skin gets controlled damage, and the pigment is inserted into it.

For professional and experienced artists, using a blade for microblading often results in less skin damage. This allows for a more controlled outcome. The important thing to remember, especially with delicate or mature skin, is to be gentle. Rubbing the skin too forcefully can be counterproductive.

The most effective approach for pigment implantation involves pigment masking. This consists of gently rubbing the pigment into the wounds, followed by a mask lasting 10-15 minutes. This time allows the pigment to properly enter the wound and start the initial encapsulation of pigment molecules.

13. Skin types and modifiers

An attractive woman on the left and six vector graphic women representing Fitzpatrick types on the right.

In the past, it was commonly thought that microblading wasn't suitable for certain skin types, like oily or thick skin, or for people with Fitzpatrick skin types 5 and 6. This perspective has evolved. If an artist feels confident, microblading can be done on all Fitzpatrick skin types. This is especially true if the procedure is combined with other techniques like shading or Powder Brows using a machine.

For clients with colder or cooler skin undertones, a warm modifier can be added to the pigment to improve the retention of warmer colors. It's true that with some skin types, the lines may fade a bit as the brows heal. But this fading is similar to what would happen with Powder Brows as well.

For thick and oily skin, many artists add a warm modifier. The preferred choices are usually olive green or yellow tones, particularly when using inorganic pigments, with yellow being the most commonly used.

14. Conclusions

In recent years, the microblading industry has seen significant changes, but one thing remains clear: microblading is still a relevant and effective method for brow pigmentation.

What defines modern microblading is its gentle, light, and minimally invasive approach. This allows for annual procedures without risking scars. It also opens the door to using inorganic or hybrid pigments with an inorganic base.

While the golden ratio still provides a useful guide for brow mapping, it's not set in stone. Artists should also consider the client's unique facial features and skull structure for a more personalized result.

In terms of brow shapes, the rules have become more flexible. For instance, artists can now opt for bolder, European-style Powder Brows, particularly regarding the lower brow line. The hair-stroke pattern has also evolved to be more natural, steering away from rigid, mirror-image designs. It's increasingly common to see PMU machines and Powder brow techniques used in tandem, creating what can be called "combo brows."

The process itself focuses on minimizing skin damage. It's become so gentle that many artists skip numbing creams altogether, especially if the client has no prior scarring from previous procedures. Skin butter is frequently used to prepare the skin, aiding in pigment flow. Yet, most pigment is introduced during gentle rubbing and long-lasting pigment masks.

Finally, microblading is now considered suitable for all Fitzpatrick skin types, including oily and thick skin. Artists often add warm modifiers, usually in yellow or olive shades, to the pigment mix when dealing with cooler or oily skin tones.

Current ways to do microblading

"Is microblading still relevant and in the game? The world of brow pigmentation has evolved a lot, but here's the scoop: Microblading isn't just surviving; it's alive and well. Thanks to new techniques, you can get much better results than before."

1. Background

2. Lighter approach, inorganic pigments

Fading to brownish tones

3. Use of Golden Ratio

Holistic approach

4. Using the skull structure to map

"Bigger" eyes, "shorter" forehead

5. More freedom with brow shapes

Soft Ombré Brows shape

6. Beginnings - No mirror images

No two brows are exactly the same

7. Pattern - Clarity and hairstrokes

No extremely tight patterns

8. Most solutions are combined

9. The principle of minimal damage

Firstly: clear view

Secondly: Proper 3-way stretching

Thirdly: Initial lines with minimal pigment

10. No or minimal numbing approach

The real anatomical need for numbing

11. Skin butter and lubricants

12. Calm rubbing and pigment masking

13. Skin types and modifiers

14. Conclusions