How to create gradient within a stroke with Hairstrokes

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1. Background

Growing Interest in Hairstrokes Technique

As we move through 2024, the Hairstrokes technique in semi-permanent makeup is attracting increasing attention. This growing interest has led to a surge in inquiries about the finer details of this method. To provide comprehensive insights, this article draws from interviews conducted with 21 experienced pigmentation artists, each of whom has incorporated Hairstrokes into their range of services.

Experience and Diversity of Interviewed Artists

The artists interviewed for this research have a substantial background in the field, each with over four years of experience. Importantly, they have all actively practiced the Hairstrokes technique for at least one year and offered other pigmentation services. These interviews were part of research projects conducted between 2021 and 2023, and these studies are still ongoing.

Of these artists, 16 are based in various European Union countries, three in the United Kingdom, and two in the United States. A significant portion, 17 out of 21, had previous experience with microblading, and 14 had practiced both microblading and powder brows. The findings and conclusions drawn from these interviews have been rigorously reviewed by two dermatologists and a specialist in cellular biology, ensuring their scientific accuracy and relevance.

The focus of the Article: Exploring Gradients in Hairstrokes

This article zeroes in on the art of creating individual strokes using the Hairstrokes method, particularly emphasizing the concept of gradients within these strokes. We aim to delineate and compare the unique characteristics of gradient strokes in Hairstrokes, contrast them with the lines created in microblading, and discuss how they differ from the simpler, monochromatic lines produced using traditional pigmentation machines.

2. Blading vs. Stroking

Distinguishing Between Blading and Stroking

In the realm of semi-permanent makeup, the techniques of creating lines fundamentally differ based on the approach used. These approaches can broadly be categorized as “blading” and “stroking'’ each with its unique impact on the skin, particularly the dermis layer. Understanding these differences is crucial from both a dermatological and a pigmentation perspective.

Blading - The anatomy of the “cut”

Nature of the wound. Microblading involves using a blade made up of a row of fine, sharp needles. This blade creates linear cuts in the skin. These cuts are essentially incisions that slice through the epidermis and into the upper dermis.

Impact on the dermis. The linear cuts disrupt the collagen network more extensively. Collagen, a primary structural protein in the dermis, provides skin its strength and elasticity. When the blade cuts through the dermis, it severs these collagen fibers along the length of the incision.
Healing and collagen remodeling. As the body heals these linear wounds, fibroblasts (cells that produce collagen) are activated to repair the damage. However, the newly formed collagen often has a different structure than the original. It tends to be denser and more disorganized, which can lead to scar tissue formation. Repeated microblading sessions exacerbate this issue, compounding the damage to the collagen network.
Depth control issues. The depth of each cut with a microblading blade can be variable. Unlike a controlled machine, the manual application can lead to inconsistent depths, which impacts the uniformity of the healing process. Deeper cuts can damage deeper dermal structures, leading to more pronounced scarring.

Stroking - The anatomy of the “puncture”

Nature of the wound. A single needle, like a 1 RL used in pigmentation machines, creates a puncture wound. This puncture is more of a pinpoint entry into the skin than the elongated cut made by microblading.

Reduced collagen disruption. The puncture wounds are less disruptive to the collagen network. Because the needle enters and exits at a single point, the collagen fibers around the puncture are more likely to remain intact and undergo less traumatic severing than linear cuts.
More controlled healing. The healing of puncture wounds is generally more straightforward. The disruption is localized, and the body can effectively restore the original collagen structure around the puncture. This minimizes the risk of scar tissue formation.
Uniform depth and less trauma. Machine needles offer consistent depth control, providing uniform healing across the treated area. The reduced trauma from these puncture wounds means less risk of creating extensive scar tissue or disrupting deeper dermal structures.

Comparison of impact on the dermis

Therefore, the key difference lies in the wound and the subsequent impact on the collagen network. Microblading cuts create elongated, linear disruptions, leading to more extensive collagen damage and a higher likelihood of scar formation. In contrast, single-needle punctures cause localized, minimal disruption, resulting in more controlled healing and a lower risk of scarring. Over time, this difference becomes significant, with microblading often leading to more substantial changes in skin structure and a greater propensity for longer-lasting scarring compared to single-needle techniques.

3. Creating gradient effect

Punctures: The Basis of Line Formation

In the Hairstrokes technique, each line comprises a series of punctures, contrasting significantly with methods that create continuous lines. This distinction in line formation is key to understanding how gradients can be achieved within a single stroke in Hairstrokes.

Varied Penetration for Pigment Implantation. Unlike methods that create uniform lines, the puncture approach in Hairstrokes allows for varying depths and amounts of pigment implantation. This variability is crucial for creating gradient effects within a stroke.
Gradient Creation through Pigment Variation. The essence of achieving a gradient lies in implanting different quantities of pigment in various parts of the stroke. By controlling the amount of pigment deposited, artists can create a visual gradient along the length of the stroke, from darker to lighter shades.

4. Segmenting a Stroke

In the Hairstrokes technique, theoretically, a stroke can be divided into countless sections for pigment implantation. However, dividing the stroke into too many sections can complicate the process, making it challenging to track and control the amount of pigment in each section. Therefore, adopting a mathematically sound and manageable approach is essential.

Standard Three-Section Division

Most commonly, Hairstrokes are divided into three distinct sections for practical and effective gradient creation:

Center: This is the core segment of the stroke.
Mid-Sections: These are transitional areas on either side of the center.
Ends (Tails): These are the tips or extremities of the stroke.

Creating Center-to-Ends Gradient

Experienced artists typically apply this three-section strategy regardless of the stroke's length. The rationale is straightforward:

Center Section: This part receives the most pigment, creating the darkest area of the stroke.
Mid-Sections: These areas are pigmented slightly less than the center, ensuring a smooth transition in color intensity.
Ends: The tips of the stroke receive considerably less pigment, resulting in the lightest parts of the stroke.

This approach ensures a seamless gradient effect, with the center being the darkest and the color gradually lightening towards the ends.

A punctured line is divided into sections with explanations on the left, a picture of a single wound in the middle, and an attractive woman with a gradient shadow on the right.

A punctured line is divided into sections with explanations on the left, a picture of a single wound in the middle, and an attractive woman with a gradient shadow on the right.

Comparison to linear wound

Herewith also lies the principle difference explaining why achieving such a “gradient” effect with a liner wound is impossible. Namely, there is a shared amount of “space” within the linear wound that becomes so enormous that when it is filled with pigment, there are no restrictions in the collagen network of the skin, and the extracellular matrix restricts pigment particle flow “within” the channel made.

Thus, the inability to create gradient lines in microblading is rooted in the uniformity of pigment distribution within linear cuts and the extensive disruption of the collagen network. In contrast, the hairstrokes technique, with its puncture wounds, offers more control over pigment deposition, allowing for the creation of gradient effects within a line. This difference is fundamental to the techniques' differing capabilities in achieving varied aesthetic outcomes in semi-permanent makeup.

Implantation Control

Effective pigment implantation in the Hairstrokes technique involves skillfully managing three critical elements: the quantity of needle passes, the pressure applied, and the stroke length. Utilizing these factors simultaneously is essential for creating a realistic gradient effect within each stroke. Let's explore these methods in detail.

5. Quantity of Passes

One reason why mastering Hairstrokes is more challenging compared to microblading is the need for a logical and repeatable approach to controlling the number of needle passes over different sections of a stroke.

Executing Needle Passes

Typically, the process begins at the upper part of the stroke's center section. Moving the needle over this center section and back to the starting point counts as one pass. If the needle extends to the mid-section and then reverses, it adds another pass to the center and one to the mid-section. Extending the needle to the very end (tail) of the stroke and returning to the center's starting point results in three passes on the center section, two on the mid-section, and one on the tail.

Pass Count Summary. In summary, this method entails counting the number of passes for each section. Starting from one end of the center section and making a single pass over it, then including the mid-section for an additional pass, and finally reaching the tail and returning to the start, the artist achieves three passes on the center section, two on the mid-section, and one on the tail.
Completing the Stroke. Repeating this process towards the other end of the stroke yields four passes on the center section, two on each mid-section, and one on each tail section. This method is critical for pigment implantation control and is foundational in creating a gradient effect within the stroke.

By meticulously controlling the number of passes over each section, artists can precisely manage the gradient effect, ensuring a more natural and aesthetically pleasing result.

6. Pressure Application

One of the most nuanced aspects of the Hairstrokes technique is the application of pressure. It's a subject of much debate among artists, with a consensus on the need for extreme care in its application. Misinterpretation of pressure application can lead to suboptimal results, making it a critical aspect to master.

Appropriate Pressure Distribution

The general guideline suggests applying the most pressure in the center section, slightly less in the mid-sections, and less at the tails. However, this doesn't mean exerting excessive pressure on any part of the stroke.

Center Section. Here, average “ordinary” pressure is applied. It's essential to understand that this doesn't imply extra force but a standard, controlled pressure that effectively implants pigment without overburdening the skin.
Mid-Sections. These sections should receive lighter pressure compared to the center. The artist should gently glide over these areas, ensuring less pigment deposition.
Tail Sections. The tails require the lightest touch, like merely brushing the skin with the machine. Practically no pressure is applied here, allowing for the lightest pigment deposition.

Combined Effect of Passes and Pressure

Artists must consider the number of passes and the pressure in each stroke section. Interestingly, the strength of the 'puncture' technique is realized here. The center section, receiving the most passes, should be treated with normal pressure, while the mid-sections and tails require progressively lighter touches.

The learning curve in mastering Hairstrokes can vary significantly based on the artist's previous experience with microblading or powder brows. Artists with a background in these techniques may find certain aspects of Hairstrokes more intuitive, though the unique pressure application in Hairstrokes presents a learning challenge for all.

7. Whipping Length

In the Hairstrokes technique, the movement of the pigmentation needle is crucial. Artists predominantly use a whipping motion to create each part of the stroke. The study revealed that none of the participating artists employed a pendulum motion. Instead, most preferred a whip motion directed towards themselves, maintaining visual contact with the needle as it pierces the skin.

Controlling Stroke Density with Whipping Length

The length of the whipping motion plays a significant role in determining pigment density in different stroke sections.

Center Section. Artists use much shorter whipping motions for the densest part of the stroke - the center. Depending on various factors such as the stroke length, machine characteristics, skin type, and the artist's style, this could involve multiple short whips within a single pass, sometimes as many as five to ten.
Mid-Sections. As the needle moves into the mid-sections of the stroke, the whipping motion becomes longer. This results in a lighter deposition of pigment compared to the center.
Tail Sections. The tails of the stroke receive the longest and, therefore, often the slowest whipping motions. This approach ensures the lightest touch, aligning with the "brushing" type movement necessary for these areas.

Combining Passes, Pressure, and Whipping Length

In summary, the center section of the stroke is treated with the highest frequency of passes (four in total), using the most pressure and the shortest, typically fastest, whipping motions. In contrast, the mid-sections receive only two passes with milder pressure and longer, slightly slower whipping motions. The tails are addressed with a single pass, the lightest pressure, and the longest, slowest whipping motion.

8. Self-Learning - optimistic idea

Among the artists involved in the research, the notion of learning the Hairstrokes technique independently was viewed with cautious optimism. While not entirely dismissing the idea, most artists saw self-learning as challenging. Only three of the 21 artists surveyed considered self-learning a viable strategy they would endorse.

Potential for Self-Learning in Experienced Artists

It was acknowledged that a highly motivated artist with substantial experience in powder brows might have a better chance at successfully mastering Hairstrokes on their own. This is due to the transferable skills and understanding of pigmentation techniques they would already possess.

Benefits of Professional Training

However, the consensus leaned towards the belief that the learning curve for Hairstrokes is generally smoother and more structured under the guidance of a professional trainer. This approach offers several advantages:

Structured Learning. Professional training provides a systematic approach to learning, covering all aspects of the technique from basic to advanced levels.
Hands-On Guidance. A trainer can offer immediate feedback and hands-on guidance, essential for mastering the precise movements and pressure control required in Hairstrokes.
Accelerated Skill Development. The presence of an experienced instructor can significantly accelerate the learning process, helping artists to overcome common pitfalls and refine their technique quickly.
Peer Learning and Support. Learning in a professional setting often provides opportunities for peer interaction, fostering an environment of collaborative learning and support.

Therefore, while self-learning Hairstrokes is not impossible, especially for seasoned powder brows artists, the journey is likely more efficient and effective with professional training. The complexity and finesse required for the Hairstrokes technique make guided instruction a more reliable path to achieving proficiency.

9. Conclusions

A key advantage of the Hairstrokes technique over other semi-permanent makeup methods is its ability to create a gradient effect within a single stroke. This is made possible by the distinct anatomical impact of a puncture created by a pigmentation needle, as opposed to a cut, typically made by a blade in microblading.

Achieving Varied Pigmentation Density

The essence of creating gradients lies in implanting varying amounts of pigment into different stroke sections. To facilitate this, the following can be done.

Stroke Division. Artists generally divide the stroke into the center, mid-sections (on either side of the center), and the end-sections or tails (at each end).
Gradient Strategy. The technique involves applying the most pigment to the center section, gradually decreasing the amount towards the mid-sections and minimally in the tails.

Tactical Approaches for Pigmentation

Number of Passes. For optimal pigmentation, the center section undergoes four passes, mid-sections receive two, and tail sections are treated with just one pass.
Pressure Application. Interestingly, normal pressure is applied to the center section, while the mid-sections and tails are treated with progressively lighter touches. The mid-sections are pigmented lightly, and the tails with an extremely light, "brushing" motion.
Whipping Motion Length. The length of the whipping motion varies across the sections. The center section experiences short, rapid whipping movements directed toward the artist for better visibility. The mid-sections are treated with longer whips, and the tails with the longest and slowest whips to ensure the lightest pigment deposition.

Learning and Mastering Hairstrokes

Though theoretically possible, learning to create gradients independently is challenging, especially without prior experience in microblading and powder brows. The artists participating in the research emphasized the value of professional training in acquiring this skill effectively.

Therefore, the Hairstrokes technique offers unique advantages in semi-permanent makeup, particularly in creating natural-looking gradients. Mastery of this technique requires a combination of strategic stroke division and skilled application of passes, pressure, and whipping motions. For optimal skill development, professional training is highly recommended.