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Undestanding Hairstrokes patterns

Dec 22, 2023, Update: Dec 22, 2023, author: Hairstrokes.com / Holistic PMU
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"Hairstrokes patterns can appear overly complex or seemingly random to many, especially those transitioning from microblading. This article aims to demystify the art of hairstrokes by exploring its core principles. By understanding these foundational ideas, experienced microblading artists and newcomers contemplating a shift to hairstrokes can gain valuable insights into this intricate technique, making "deciphering" these patterns more straightforward and less intimidating. Let us explore the world of hairstrokes patterns, where artistry meets precision."

1. Background


The content and suggestions in this article are based on interviews with 44 skilled pigmentation artists who have recently added the Hairstrokes technique to their repertoire. Among these, 37 have extensive experience in microblading and powder brows, while seven specialize solely in microblading. All participants are seasoned professionals with over four years in the field and are recognized as top regional earners. Of those artists, 35 lived in the EU, six in the UK, and three in the US at the time of the interviews. Despite their varied backgrounds, their tactical and strategic insights into these typical mistakes were remarkably consistent, indicating an international shared understanding of these common errors.

Understanding Learning Hairstrokes Patterns

Based on the research projects involving the contributing artists and many others, there appears to be a curious discrepancy among artists regarding Hairstrokes. Namely, a rather large portion of artists consider learning Hairstrokes overly complicated and won't even attempt it. On the other hand, a smaller percentage of artists believe they can master Hairstrokes even without formal training, provided they have learned microblading and powder brows.

No Need to Learn - Result: Just Combo Brows

Seasoned artists suggest that the overconfident and fearful groups of artists are mistaken. Empirical evidence shows that artists who believe they can achieve Hairstrokes without additional learning tend to produce basic line patterns in eyebrows using the powder brows technique. Such brows do not truly represent Hairstrokes as a distinct style; in principle, they are merely Combo Brows - a mix of powdering with some lines, usually at the head of the brow. This approach has nothing inherently wrong, but as one experienced Hairstrokes artist put it, "It's like comparing a picture of a car to the car itself.”

Being Afraid to Learn - Psychological Obstacles

The reluctance among many microblading and powder brows artists to learn Hairstrokes is often based on misconceptions. Empirical evidence and the experiences of many trainers indicate that mastering Hairstrokes is indeed challenging, but not in the ways students often anticipate. A significant factor is the selection of a trainer. Since the popularity of Hairstrokes, many microblading and powder brows trainers have attempted to teach this skill. However, the outcomes from such training are not always optimal because these trainers may not have fully mastered the intricacies of the Hairstrokes technique themselves and are often unaware of many nuances related to Hairstrokes.

The Real Difficulty

With an experienced trainer, the Hairstrokes technique can be mastered well in most cases, especially if the student is willing to invest time and effort into learning. However, as identified by many artists, the real challenge isn't necessarily acquiring the skills but applying what has been learned in practice. Completing the procedure is significantly more difficult than learning the theoretical aspects. Unlike microblading and powder brows, Hairstrokes present unique differences with each client, requiring the artist to consider selecting a compatible pattern and executing the work. Furthermore, fewer phases can be performed on "auto-pilot." Many artists reported being able to do microblading or powder brows with less active thought. This means that the Hairstrokes procedure takes longer, involves many more elements requiring the artist's active energy and thought, and thus is overall just harder to accomplish, particularly for artists who are new to the technique.

Next, look at typical mistakes that make creating Hairstrokes more difficult, compared to other pigmentation techniques.

2. Pattern Design


Different Approach

Regarding Hairstrokes, pattern design is intricately related to the structure, location, density, and length of the client's natural brow hair. Starting artists often underestimate this, compromising the artistic quality of their Hairstrokes brows. While almost all artists claim to consider the client's natural brow characteristics in powder brows and microblading, the situation with Hairstrokes is different. Natural hair's actual importance and structure are much more critical in hairstrokes. Much More Attention to Detail Experienced artists don't view the natural brow area merely as a canvas for replication. They envision the healed result and how it will transform, including retouching. They ask themselves, "To what extent will the added Hairstrokes differ from the initial situation?"

Only after confirming that the Hairstrokes will blend seamlessly with the client's natural hair do they select a pattern with an appropriate backbone and guiding lines. Many artists have admitted they would not continue the procedure if they realized the machine-created strokes would look significantly different from the natural hair, often due to limitations in how much the created Hairstrokes can curve and bend. Starting artists often analyze natural hair too little and apply a pattern over the existing brow. This approach results in minimal blending and a less natural appearance than achievable. Artists must pay close attention to the natural hair and carefully select a pattern that complements and enhances the client's unique features.

Pattern Density and Retention

Many starting artists don't fully grasp the foundational concept of Hairstrokes patterns. Unlike microblading or other techniques, the primary goal of third-wave Hairstrokes is to achieve a natural look at the level of the entire brow, not just at the level of a single stroke. This fundamental distinction is what sets Hairstrokes apart from microblading.

For instance, in microblading, the blade with a row of needles excels at creating realistic individual hairlines. The sharp linear cut is highly effective at mimicking natural brow hair at the level of one line or a combination of lines forming a stroke element. However, the issue with this is retention. Both empirical evidence and biological studies have shown that the damage to the collagen network, possible inconsistent depth, and repeated cuts to the same skin area cause these lines to blur. If blurring doesn't occur during the healing phases, which it often does, especially with organic pigments or on oily and thick skin, or if the cuts are made too deep into the hypodermis, causing migration, it will eventually happen over time. Therefore, while microblading may look nice and sharp immediately after the procedure, such realism does not last due to the inherent issues with the technique.

In contrast, with Hairstrokes, the approach is broader and more holistic. It focuses on the overall appearance and flow of the brow rather than the sharpness or detail of individual strokes. This approach is more forgiving and adaptable to the natural changes and movements of the skin, leading to better retention and a more consistently natural look over time. Artists venturing into Hairstrokes must understand this fundamental difference and adjust their techniques and expectations accordingly.

The True Challenges with Hairstrokes Patterns

The lines in Hairstrokes patterns are typically longer and darker in the center, with stroke elements in the pattern considerably less dense. This means that when a stroke line or element in Hairstrokes is analyzed, there is a clear and undeniable discrepancy compared to natural brow hair. Often, no human hair has such exact strength and length found in brows. Similarly, in most cases, there is less density in the natural brow hair of human brows. However, this concept is not the weakness of Hairstrokes but its strength. If executed correctly, the result of such a pattern will mimic natural brows even better over time, producing a healed result that is natural, blends with the brow, and looks considerably more like Hairstrokes than a too-dense pattern made with microblading, which often looks sharp only right after the procedure.

The Mistakes Beginners Make

In comparison, there's no doubt that a sharp and dense microblading pattern can resemble actual brow hair more closely than Hairstrokes, but that effect lasts only a few days after the procedure. The real strength of Hairstrokes is that they will look natural from a bit of distance permanently - all through their healing. Thus, the mistake many artists make when starting with Hairstrokes, especially those who have done microblading before, is to make the strokes too short, trying to mimic natural brow hair too closely, as they are still influenced by the "microblading effect." The key to success lies in completely resetting the approach to pattern creation and understanding the conceptual difference: the idea is to mimic reality at the level of the brow, not at the level of a single hairstroke as a line inside the brow.

If not done correctly, one must understand that migration and blurring of the strokes can be an actual problem with Hairstrokes. This means that migration will occur if the strokes are made too short, the pattern is too dense, and too much pressure is applied so that the needle reaches the hypodermis. However, the very concept of making fewer, longer lines enables minimizing this to an extent where it is no longer an actual issue.

3. The Magic of Symmetry


When discussing the Hairstrokes pattern, we delve into two types of symmetry: the mirroring of brow patterns and the symmetry within the pattern itself.

Symmetry of Brows

Some beginning artists mistakenly believe that Hairstrokes, a more artistic approach, don't necessitate exact symmetry between the left and right brow. This is a misguided notion and contrary to the philosophy of Hairstrokes. Adhering to a pattern as a basis for brow design is crucial, and the backbone and guiding lines of both brows should mirror each other.

The most common strategy for achieving this is dividing the brow into 5-7 horizontal sections and then focusing on the curvature of the backbone and main lines in each section. Once the main guiding lines of one brow, typically the “body,” “tail,” and “upper lines,” are drawn, they can be mirrored to the other side. For creating horizontal sections, some artists divide the brow into equal sections, while others prefer to divide the brow first into halves horizontally—common divisions include 70-30 and 60-40.

These divisions help determine the brow's apex region (the upper arch's highest point). The larger section is then split into two and then into two, while the shorter section is split into two. There's no specific advantage in splitting the brow into sections according to special tactics versus having equal sections; it might simplify creating some patterns, but this effect is pattern-dependent. However, copying the guiding lines section by section significantly eases the task of achieving symmetry between the left and right brow.

Symmetry within the Pattern

Regarding symmetry within the pattern, it's essential to understand a concept familiar to mathematicians and artists: when space is divided equally, fewer divisions are needed to create the perception of a filled space. If extra strokes are made between the main strokes, the "filled" effect is more easily achieved if those are made in the middle of the main strokes, not just closer to one side. Additionally, many beginners err by connecting the additional lines that need to unite with the main guiding lines too early. This mistake merely emphasizes the main lines and makes them stronger but does not help to fill the space because the symmetry between the lines is much shorter. Understanding and applying these symmetry principles is essential for creating aesthetically pleasing and natural-looking Hairstrokes.

4. ”"Looser” and “Tighter” Patterns


Microblading Pattern Regions

Many artists transitioning from microblading to hairstrokes initially perceive hairstrokes patterns as "random." This perception often stems from trying to apply microblading logic to hairstrokes. In microblading, the different regions of the brow pattern are relatively tightly connected. The pattern typically includes distinct front lines at the head of the brow, followed by lower lines and upper lines. The most significant transition within a microblading pattern usually occurs between the front and main lower lines, a concept common to most microblading patterns.

Hairstrokes Pattern Regions

In contrast, hairstrokes patterns are generally more complex and include distinct regions. From the head of the brow, these regions typically include the loose headlines, main headlines, main lower guiding lines, upper lines, tail section, and loose tail section. This results in at least six different regions, each with unique properties, compared to microblading's three main regions.

Moreover, the approach to completing a hairstrokes pattern differs significantly from microblading. In microblading, as demonstrated in numerous videos by experienced artists, the pattern can often be 'printed' starting from the head, moving through the lower lines via a transition, and then simply adding the upper lines. However, with hairstrokes, each region requires a more thoughtful and individual approach due to its distinct characteristics and the looser connection between regions. This complexity is one of the key differences that artists must understand and master when transitioning from microblading to hairstrokes.

5. Regions in the Hairstrokes Pattern


A hairstrokes brow pattern on a black background on the left with labels of regions and an attractive black woman with an afro haircut on the right.

In hairstrokes, the pattern is divided into distinct regions, each requiring a unique approach. Here's a brief explanation of the main regions in typical hairstrokes patterns:

Main Region (“Body")

The central part of the pattern is often referred to as the "body" region, which corresponds to the lower lines in the brow. This area consists of the backbone and main guiding lines that provide direction and volume for the rest of the pattern. It's where you'll find the strongest and thickest lines. Artists use various terms to describe this region, including the "body" of the brow or, metaphorically, the "siblings" in a family-like pattern structure. The main lines here are crucial as they form the foundation of the hairstrokes brow pattern.

Upper Lines

The upper lines in a hairstrokes pattern tend to be looser than those in microblading patterns, forming their distinct region. These lines may not always connect directly to the backbone, as their connection, direction, and curvature depend on the specific pattern. Typically considered horizontal, these lines are lighter and less dense than the main region lines. Artists often advise against creating shadow regions here, as the intention is to keep them subtly distinct.

Head with Loose Lines

The head region is divided into the brow head and loose headlines. The brow head typically features a built-in gradient where line density increases from lighter at the beginning to darker and denser towards the main region. Some artists accentuate certain lines within the head section for a more dimensional look. The loose headlines are the lightest and least dense, adding a feathery feel to the pattern.

Tail Section and Loose Tail Lines

The tail section's connection to the main section varies across patterns, sometimes tighter and more independent. It often begins beneath the backbone of the main section, extending to the brow tail. Like the upper lines, the tail section lines are less dense and feature light or no shadowing. Similar to the loose headlines, the loose tail lines are sparse and intended to enhance the pattern's feathery appearance.

Each of these regions plays a vital role in creating the overall effect of the hairstrokes pattern. Understanding and mastering the nuances of each region is crucial for artists aiming to deliver realistic and aesthetically pleasing results.

6. Uniting Regions


Uniting Regions with Transition Connections

Mastering the art of hairstrokes involves creating distinct regions within the pattern and seamlessly uniting them through transition connections. These connections are where the true skill of a hairstrokes artist is showcased. The artist must skillfully transition the density from one region to another, blending them into a cohesive, natural-looking brow. When done correctly, these transitions make it challenging for even the most seasoned microblading artists to distinguish between the separate regions at first glance.

The key to successful transition connections lies in the artist's ability to gradually change the stroke density, color intensity, and line thickness, ensuring a smooth and natural flow from one brow area to another. This requires a deep understanding of the underlying structure of natural brows and a keen artistic eye.

7. Conclusions


Approaching the hairstrokes pattern can initially appear daunting, especially for artists with a background in microblading. The complexity of hairstrokes can lead to two typical responses: either underestimating the importance of pattern, seeing it as merely adding random lines to powder brows (resulting in what's essentially combo brows), or feeling intimidated and avoiding learning hairstrokes altogether. In the first case, the artist ends up with an ordinary combo brow that doesn't truly represent hairstrokes. In the second case, they miss a significant opportunity to learn a technique that's becoming increasingly crucial in the future of brow pigmentation.

The difficulty in mastering hairstrokes lies in learning the technique and executing the procedure itself. It requires considerably more time, thought, and energy than "printing" a microblading pattern or applying powder brows on "auto-pilot".

Key differences in hairstrokes pattern design must be understood. The design should always be seen as an integral part of the client's facial features, not as a separate stencil slapped onto the client's face. True hairstrokes artists pay close attention to the existing brow hair, structure, curvature, and direction to determine if the procedure is feasible.

Another principal aspect is related to achieving a "natural look" with the pattern. While microblading achieves this by mimicking the look of individual hairs, thus composing a dense pattern that appears natural, hairstrokes achieve a natural look at the level of the entire brow. Many individual lines in hairstrokes are longer and denser than any single natural brow hair. Although they might look less natural up close right after the procedure, hairstrokes heal into a perpetually realistic appearance over time, while the sharp precision of microblading patterns inevitably fades and blurs.

Many artists mistakenly equate the "artistic look" of the pattern with "creative freedom" to create random lines. However, there is nothing random about hairstrokes patterns; the idea is to know and understand the pattern beforehand. It is crucial to achieve symmetry at the brow level (between the left and right brow) and within the pattern itself. To achieve symmetry between brows, the pattern of a brow is often divided horizontally into sections, and the curvature and line structure are copied section by section. Symmetry within the pattern is achieved by adding extra lines so that the distance between the surrounding main lines is the same, allowing for a larger space filled with fewer lines. This, among other things, enables better retention of hairstrokes brows.

While hairstrokes patterns may seem overwhelmingly complicated at first, demystifying them becomes possible when one learns to view them as consisting of 5-7 separate regions connected with transitions. Usually, these regions include the main lines, upper lines, headlines, loose head, tail lines, and loose tail. All these regions can have different line structures based on a specific pattern. Understanding this provides the key to deciphering hairstrokes patterns.
 
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Comments
 
Tamy
Friday, Dec 29, 2023

Absolutely useful and very good articles. I have worked on three continents and I love hairstrokes and I always want to learn new things. This site is a very good source for that, I think.

Margret
Friday, Dec 22, 2023

I read this and I must say its systematized in a very good way. I did not understand all just yet, but I understood the way to approach this. Thank you so much!


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