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Breaking the re-learning cycle with a holistic approach 

Nov 15, 2023, author: Powderbrows.com / Holistic PMU
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"Embarking on a journey to master the art of powder brows goes beyond mere technique; it requires a deep dive into the interconnected realms of chemistry, physics, biology, and psychology. Without a solid foundation in these areas, artists may find themselves in a relentless cycle of "re-learning," constantly replacing their current understanding with what seems to be a more advanced truth. Without truly immersing oneself in these four key domains, this quest for simplified explanations paves the way for certain trainers – sometimes known as ”one-eyed-queens” – to present familiar concepts in new guises as groundbreaking revelations."

1. Background


The insights for this article are drawn from comprehensive interviews with 33 artists, who are also trainers, predominantly from various EU countries, along with four from the UK and three from the US. In addition, this piece has undergone review by two dermatologists, an individual with advanced education in cellular biology, and a chemist. This article aims to provide guidance for novice and seasoned artists, assisting them in navigating the intricate world of semi-permanent pigmentation, with a particular focus on the specialized area of powder brows. This collaborative effort combines practical experience with academic expertise, ensuring a well-rounded perspective on the subject.

The problem


In powder brows artistry, a significant issue emerges from the artists' limited depth of understanding in the pigmentation field. This shallow grasp leads them to grasp at new ideas, treating each as the sole truth in a vast sea of possibilities. It creates a scenario where artists are easily swayed, latching onto novel concepts without the foundation of deep knowledge to anchor their judgment.

However, a transformation occurs as these artists delve deeper into their craft and expand their knowledge. Their confidence burgeons not from external affirmations but from their own well of knowledge and practical expertise. This self-assurance is rooted in a comprehensive understanding and hands-on experience, enabling them to weigh new information with discernment.

With a robust foundation in the principles of pigmentation, artists can place novel ideas within a broader context. They develop a nuanced perspective, allowing them to sift through the influx of information critically. This maturity in understanding makes them less susceptible to being naively swayed by fresh yet unvetted ideas. Instead, they become adept at integrating new insights into their existing framework, enhancing their practice while remaining grounded in the fundamental truths of their art. Let us now illustrate that with some examples.

2. Four roams of pigmentation


The four roams of pigmentation knowledge

In the specialized field of powder brows, a comprehensive understanding encompasses four distinct realms: chemistry, physics, biology, and psychology. Each offers a unique perspective that enriches our approach to pigmentation.

Chemistry in Powder Brows

At the heart of powder brows lies chemistry. This complex science illuminates every facet of the pigmentation process. From analyzing pigments' organic or inorganic components to understanding their modifications, chemistry offers profound insights. The journey delves into the chemical consistency of the pigment's solubles, binders, and additives and how they react within the skin, interacting with enzymes and other elements.

The domain of chemistry encompasses all molecular reactions involved in pigment fusion, such as silanization and carbothermal reductions. The life cycle of pigment particles – atoms, molecules, and their interactions – is a narrative of balanced chemical reactions. Changes in brow color can be understood as either chemical transformations due to oxidation or alterations in covalent bonds within particle “flakes.” These insights extend to methods like laser removal or saline treatments, all of which are deeply rooted in chemical principles.

Physics and Powder Brows

In physics, the procedure of powder brows can be explained through the mechanics of creating an opening in the skin and introducing particles of varying sizes. The interplay of light waves, absorbed or reflected by these particles, gives rise to the perceived color of the brows. Delving into the nanometric sizes of pigments and their interaction with light enables us to understand phenomena like Mie scattering and its comparison to Rayleigh scattering.

The physics behind pigment colorants explains why we might perceive blue hues in brows, influenced by the intensity of different light waves. This knowledge dovetails with understanding the lightfastness properties of particles, including how components like TiO2 affect these properties and contribute to the Tyndall effect. Even the implantation process - encompassing needle angle, pressure, cartridge selection, and hand movement - can be analyzed through the lens of physics.

Biology in Pigmentation

The biology perspective recognizes that we are working with a living human body. Pigmentation is a biological interaction with skin proteins, such as ferritins, in the case of inorganic pigments. The processes of phagocytosis, where macrophages engulf pigment particles, and the aggregation of these particles within the extracellular matrix or fibrosis are biological phenomena. Collagen fiber formation and the body’s immunological responses also fall under this realm.

The healing process, individual changes in the body, skin types, and the various layers of skin – epidermis, basal membrane, papillary dermis, reticular dermis, and hypodermis – are all crucial in understanding pigment retention, removal, and migration. Similarly, brow mapping can be related to the anatomical features of the human skull, the shape of the orbital bone, eye sockets, and brow ridge.

Psychology about Pigmentation

Finally, psychology plays a pivotal role in the pigmentation process. The reaction of clients is often a reflection of the artist's behavior and self-confidence. Empirical evidence shows that likable artists in professional settings often receive more repeat business, even if the quality of their work is not as high as their less personable counterparts. The aspects of sales and marketing in this field have also been shown to be influenced by an artist's ability to attract attention. Interestingly, artists who garner more attention, even if initially less skilled, can often outpace more talented artists who lack digital and social media prowess. This evolution underscores the impact of psychology in both the client experience and the artist's success in the field.

Understanding powder browse through these four realms  - chemistry, physics, biology, and psychology - offers a holistic view of the practice. It empowers artists to approach their craft with a depth of knowledge and a breadth of perspective, ensuring that their work is not only technically proficient but also sensitive to the nuances of human interaction and perception.

Interdisciplinary Complexity in Powder Brows

The complexity of the powder brows procedure can be fully appreciated only when these fields are considered together. For instance, a single action in pigment implantation might involve chemical reactions, physical mechanics, biological responses, and psychological elements. Lacking a holistic and robust foundation in each domain can lead to a distorted perception of the procedure.

3. Phenomenon of “Relearning”


Artists often find themselves in a cycle of constant “relearning." This cycle, however, is symptomatic of an incomplete understanding rather than a productive approach. This need for relearning is often sparked by the introduction of seemingly novel explanations about various aspects of the procedure, from pigment consistency and skin reactions to implantation strategies. Less experienced artists might perceive these explanations as new due to their inability to contextualize them within the established frameworks of chemistry, physics, biology, and psychology.

Analyzing the 'Relearning' Process

'Relearning' essentially involves discarding existing knowledge as false and replacing it with new information. This approach can be cognitively dissonant, requiring simultaneously holding contradictory beliefs. In the context of pigmentology, an artist might accept new information as correct while also recognizing, given the nature of “relearning,” that this new knowledge is eventually subject to replacement. And often the moment it gets replaced is when “a new trainer comes in town.”

Stability of Core Knowledge

In contrast to the ever-changing trends in fashion and style, the fundamental truths of powder brows and pigmentation procedures, as grounded in chemistry, physics, biology, and psychology, have remained relatively stable for decades, if not centuries. Recognizing this stability enables a more accurate assessment of the 'relearning' phenomenon. Often, what is presented as a “new” perspective is just a rehashed version of established knowledge, repackaged to appear novel for training programs. The allure of “new and innovative” methods can overshadow the less glamorous, though equally crucial, “basics.” 

Therefore, skepticism is warranted when confronted with claims of the necessity to “relearn,” especially in a field grounded in such stable and longstanding scientific principles.

4. One-eyed queens


The constant need to provide something “new”

The pursuit of novelty in the field of powder brows often manifests in the strategies of numerous traveling trainers. These trainers recognize that to captivate their audience, they must present something seemingly groundbreaking. However, these "shockingly novel" approaches usually fall into familiar categories: new pigment formulations, unique methods of mixing pigments, various additives (like boosters, enhancers, skin butter, toners-modifiers, correctors-neutralizers, or diluters), improved brow shapes and mapping techniques based on anatomical understanding, innovative application techniques, or novel healing recommendations.

The Limitation of Novelty in Technical Aspects

Regarding technical aspects and most pigments, the scope for genuine novelty – particularly in chemical, biological, and physical terms – is relatively limited. Occasionally, new signature styles in filling the brow outlines emerge. Still, these largely pertain to the psychological aspect of marketing rather than any significant advancement in the technical execution of powder brows.

The Phenomenon of the "One-Eyed Queen"

So how do trainers continually "surprise" students, even in masterclasses or training aimed at experienced artists? The concept resembles the adage of the "one-eyed man being king in the land of the blind." The success of these trainers hinges on their ability to present themselves as more knowledgeable than their students. Given the complexity of presenting information across chemistry, physics, biology, and psychology, students often don't realize the extent of their trainer's knowledge. Empirical evidence suggests that the knowledge gap may be minor. Still, even a slight edge can elevate a trainer to a revered status, making them appear as a font of wisdom. That enables the  “one-eyed-queens” to appear as the group of students listening to them as providers of the causes for “re-learning” the students' existing knowledge base.

The Sunken Cost Attribute

Another factor perpetuating the cycle of “re-learning” is the sunken cost fallacy. When students invest significantly in training, they expect to uncover some secret, groundbreaking information that will give them an edge over the competition. This expectation can be so powerful that even conventional wisdom, repackaged as innovative strategy, is eagerly accepted as new and superior knowledge. This psychological process is often only partially acknowledged by the students, who may attribute any progress to the revolutionary tactics learned in the training, justifying the price they paid.

Thus, while the allure of novelty and the promise of groundbreaking techniques are compelling, they often mask the reality that true advancements in chemistry, physics, biology, and psychology are more evolutionary than revolutionary in powder brows. The key is recognizing the balance between genuinely new knowledge and repackaged conventional wisdom.


5. Escaping re-learning cycle


Getting out of the “re-learning cycle”

The path out of the perpetual 're-learning' cycle, as experienced by many seasoned artists, hinges on a singular, fundamental approach: building a personal framework of understanding based on knowledge and competence in chemistry, physics, biology, and psychology as they pertain to pigmentation and powder brows procedures. This requires a commitment to learning, which might be perceived as daunting. An ideal starting point is to systematically read the content on powderbrows.com, where over a thousand pages of quality information are available for self-education. This resource is designed to offer artists an opportunity for comprehensive learning.

Understanding Beginner Knowledge

The beginner level focuses on acquiring just enough knowledge to safely and effectively provide the service. This includes understanding the bare essentials without delving too deeply into the complexities of the procedure. Many artists, especially those who offer powder brows as one of several services, find this level of knowledge sufficient. While this may be adequate for basic practice, it falls short in a competitive professional environment. Nevertheless, despite this minimal knowledge, artists can often present themselves as knowledgeable by echoing training insights or referencing materials they've read.

Beyond Easy Solutions

The journey is considerably more challenging for those aiming to become true professionals in the field. Once the basic knowledge is acquired, advancing professionally is a much longer and more complex process. It requires developing a holistic understanding and shedding any naiveté regarding the intricacies of powder brows and pigmentation. As one progresses, it becomes evident that the four realms of pigmentation – chemistry, physics, biology, and psychology – offer many facts that can be tailored to support various commercial or financial interests.

A classic example: Organic vs. Inorganic Pigment Debate

A classic manifestation of this complexity is the ongoing debate between organic and inorganic pigments, including hybrids based on these categories. Each side presents viable arguments supported by facts. Proponents of organic pigments may argue their suitability for a broader range of skin types, better color retention, and less risk of scarring, positioning them as superior. Conversely, advocates for inorganic pigments might highlight their ease of removal from the skin, facilitating repeated business and reduced risk of undesirable color changes, making them seem more advantageous.

Navigating these debates and conflicting information requires building a personal 'map of meanings' and gaining holistic competence. There are no shortcuts in this process – only dedicated effort and a commitment to understanding can prevent one from falling into yet another cycle of 're-learning.' This path of rigorous study and application is essential for artists aspiring to professional excellence.

6. Conclusions


In the intricate world of pigmentation, specifically the powder brows procedure, understanding can be forged from four interlinked perspectives: chemistry, physics, biology, and psychology. Given the nearly limitless levels of analysis, especially when intertwining these realms, the same processes can be explained through multiple lenses and diverse discourses.

Many artists, eager for a quick and simplified grasp of 'pigmentology,' find themselves ensnared in a perpetual cycle of 're-learning.' They eagerly embrace each new piece of "novel" and "revolutionary" information about procedures, techniques, pigments, and supplies. Yet, they often fail to realize that these supposed breakthroughs are typically just rehashed explanations of well-known chemical, physical, biological, or psychological phenomena presented slightly differently.

This propensity to package and promote complex-sounding information as groundbreaking discoveries have given rise to a cohort of "one-eyed queens" - traveling trainers who capitalize on this phenomenon. Whether intentionally complicating simple processes or genuinely believing in their 'new' discoveries, they successfully propagate these ideas in training sessions as catalysts for 're-learning.' The knowledge gap enables this dynamic: if trainers know more than their students, the students often can't gauge the extent of this knowledge gap. Typically, these trainers possess only marginally more knowledge.

The antidote to this cycle of 're-learning' lies in constructing one's own contextual understanding based on factual competence in chemistry, physics, biology, and psychology. This approach is at the heart of the Holistic PMU methodology. For those seeking to break free from the cycle and build a solid foundation in the field, a good starting point is to delve into the wealth of material available on powderbrows.com. This resource offers a pathway to developing the comprehensive understanding necessary to navigate the complexities of powder brows and pigmentation in general with confidence and clarity.
 
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