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How to create perfect pixels?

Nov 06, 2023, Update: Nov 06, 2023, author: Powderbrows.com / Holistic PMU

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https://powderbrows.com/blogs/resources/how-to-create-perfect-pixels

"The key components that influence the quality of the pixels in Powder Brows are the angle of the needle, depth of penetration, the speed of the needle's movement, needle selection, and hand movement. Those factors are explained in this article."

1. Background and Objectives

This article aims to offer a set of practical techniques for achieving "perfect pixels" in Powder Brows. Most of those techniques are universally applicable and equally valid for artists with extensive experience and for artists who are just starting in their careers.

The article is written based on the information gained from 56 interviews with 35 Powder Brows and pigmentation artists and trainers from 11 different countries. Of those artists and trainers, 23 resided in the European Union, 8 in the UK, and 4 in the US. There is no significant difference in opinions regarding the practical aspects described in the article.

The advice and suggestions we've highlighted have been selected based on a broad consensus among these trainers. They have reached similar conclusions despite employing various methods and approaches in their practice. Most of these experts have over four years of experience in the field, have graduated from multiple academies, and the majority also run their academies, specializing mainly in Powder Brows and pigmentation training.

2. Creating Perfect Pixels

What are perfect pixels?

In the digital realm, a pixel is the smallest displayable unit on a computer screen, usually a square. In the world of pigmentation, a "pixel" refers to a circle-shaped mark created when a needle deposits pigment into the skin. Interestingly, the needle cartridge performs only part of the task. It punctures the skin, creating a "corridor" for the pigment. When the needle retracts quickly, a "vacuum" effect briefly occurs, pulling the pigment into the skin. A "perfect" pixel is characterized by sharp, not blurry, edges and a round shape.

Five Key Components

that influence the quality of the pixels in Powder Brows:

The angle of the needle
The depth of penetration
The speed of the needle's movement
Needle selection
Hand movement

Achieving a desirable result is a coordinated interplay of these elements. In the following sections, we shall explore those aspects more closely.

3. Needle angle

90-Degrees is a must

When it comes to creating those precise pixels, the angle of the needle plays a significant role. In the realm of Powder Brows, some foundational principles have remained constant for years, and one of them is maintaining the needle at a 90-degree angle to the skin. While some artists may challenge this established method to garner attention, for a beginner in the field, sticking to a 90-degree angle is the wisest course of action for achieving ideal pixels.

Deviating from 90 Degrees: More Skin Trauma

Diving into the anatomy of skin damage during needle penetration, it becomes evident that maintaining a 90-degree angle is crucial for optimal healing. Any deviation from this angle increases the likelihood of irregular cuts in the skin, causing the needle's entry or exit to tear the tissue. This action creates a "corridor" filled with pigment. As the wound heals, some pigment particles remain in the skin, leading to a shape that can best be described as "comma-shaped" or resembling a short, oval-edged line. Consequently, veering away from a 90-degree angle compromises the chances of achieving sharp, clearly defined pixel edges.

4. Pigmentation Depth

Understanding penetration depth

The depth at which the needle deposits pigment into the skin is paramount. For optimal results, most of the pigment should be placed in the upper and mid-dermis layers. A standard indicator that you've reached the correct dermal layer is the color of the lymph fluid that rises to the skin's surface. As a general guideline, transparent lymph fluid suggests the needle has reached the upper dermis. Meanwhile, a pinkish or orange-tinged lymph fluid indicates that you have accessed the mid-dermis. Achieving this penetration level is crucial for crafting "perfect pixels" with optimal pigment retention.

Interpreting Lymph Fluid Colors

Observing a reddish mixture of lymph fluid, blood, and larger diameter dots often suggests that the needle has penetrated too deeply. Some artists find it easier to create "pixels" in the top layer of the dermis or even at the junction between the dermis and epidermis. While these may produce appealing results for immediate post-procedure photos, such superficial placements are usually not durable and tend to fade quickly.

Feeling the Correct Depth

Some seasoned artists argue that the correct depth can be "felt," provided your fingers are positioned correctly during the procedure. While it might sound improbable, this claim is valid. Every needle stroke generates a specific vibration in the skin. The skin tightens if the artist strategically places their thumb, index finger, and little finger around the pigmentation area. This tightening allows for a consistent level of vibration, which correlates with a specific depth. Artists who are sensitive and experienced enough can indeed feel this vibration and determine if the correct depth has been reached. Moreover, many artists can also discern when the needle goes too deep based on the feedback they receive from the handpiece. This tactile sense can be honed with practice to become another reliable indicator of needle depth.

"Hearing" the Correct Depth

The concept of "hearing" the correct depth primarily revolves around identifying unusual sounds that indicate either harsh traumatization of the skin or the absence of a distinct "skin-cracking" noise, which signals that the needle's movement is too superficial. Although it's more challenging to detect when the needle's motion is out of sync with hand movement - a situation that can result in oval or "comma-shaped" pixels - some seasoned artists have also developed the skill to identify this.

For beginners, it's crucial to become attuned to these auditory cues. For instance, once a novice artist learns to hear the needle penetrating and "cracking" the skin, it becomes easier to recognize. This auditory awareness is somewhat akin to identifying the correct "scratching sound" produced during microblading procedures. So, for experienced artists, it's plausible to "hear" the correct depth. At the same time, for those just starting, it's more about identifying deviations from the proper hand movement or when the pigment fails to be applied effectively.

5. Needle movement speed

Technical Aspects

Needle speed is determined by a combination of factors, the most immediate of which is the power supply to the motor inside the handpiece. Artists often discuss speed in terms of the voltage setting on the power unit. For example, Critical's Atom series of power units are well-known for their customizable voltage settings, directly affecting the machine's electrical power feeding. For Powder Brows pigmentation, the typical voltage range lies between 4.5 and 5.5 volts, with a sweet spot around 4.8 to 5.1 volts for creating ideal pixels.

However, it's crucial to understand that voltage is just one component in a more complex "speed equation." Adjusting the voltage alone won't necessarily guarantee the success of achieving perfect pixels; it's merely a part of a broader set of variables that influence needle speed and, ultimately, the quality of the pixels.

Understanding Volts and Watts

Volts and watts are used to measure electrical properties, but they serve different purposes. Volts indicate the electrical force or potential difference between two points in an electrical circuit. On the other hand, watts measure the rate at which energy is transferred or converted within that circuit.

Regarding electrical calculations, wattage is determined by multiplying voltage by amperage (W=V x A). In practical terms, a PMU (Permanent Makeup) machine with higher voltage and amperage will have a greater wattage, signifying that it is more powerful. If you think of voltage as representing the speed or pressure at which electrons are moving, then amperage means the volume or quantity of electrons. Consequently, calculating wattage indicates the total volume of electron movement a circuit can handle.

Most power units for PMU machines come with a scale or digital display that primarily allows for the adjustment of voltage settings. Transferring Power from Circuit to Skin: The Role of the Handpiece The actual transfer of power from the circuit to the skin - and, critically, the consistency of achieving stable and identical strokes - depends significantly on the quality of the handpiece. The handpiece's effectiveness ensures the needle speed remains consistent when encountering resistance, like human skin.

Lower-quality handpieces or machines often result in inconsistent needle speeds. The speed ranges specified by the machine effectively represent only the "desired speed" when the needle is in open air. However, when the needle encounters resistance, a force comes into play that can compromise the consistency of needle movement. Cheaper, weaker, and more rudimentary machines have a higher likelihood of this inconsistency, leading to skin tearing and a lower probability of achieving perfect pixels.

It's worth noting that with many Asian-made machines, the settings that indicate "needle movement" may not accurately reflect the machine's performance when the needle encounters skin. These settings often represent the manufacturer's desired needle speed in a vacuum. Once the needle faces resistance from the skin, the actual speed and power can vary substantially.

How Rotation Affects Depth: Understanding Stroke Length

Every permanent makeup (PMU) machine contains a motor that determines the stroke length, a crucial variable when analyzing the needle's mechanical speed. The stroke length is usually a fixed variable defined by the motor's specifications. However, some specialized machines, like some models from Xion, offer the flexibility to change part of the motor - precisely, the stroke wheel - that controls the stroke length.

The wheel size determining stroke length directly correlates with the needle's movement. A shorter stroke means the needle will move up and down more quickly. In machines without a "gearing" system, each full wheel rotation equates to one up-and-down needle movement. This is typically measured in revolutions per minute (RPM). In such cases, where PMU machines are often called rotary machines, every rotation leads to two strokes (an up and a down needle movement). However, introducing a gearing system can mechanically multiply the number of strokes, potentially by several orders of magnitude, reaching the thousands.

The Length of the Stroke Impact on Skin Trauma

Regarding stroke length, it's essential to understand that shorter strokes naturally generate a milder punch and exert less force on the needle cartridge stem. On the other hand, a longer stroke is more challenging to control, delivers more potent hits, and tends to cause more skin trauma. Consequently, it's advisable to adjust the stroke length based on the sensitivity of the skin area you're working on. Shortening strokes are often recommended for achieving perfect pixels with minimal skin trauma, especially in delicate areas like the eyeliner region.

To categorize machines based on their motor's stroke wheel diameter, here are some general criteria:

Short Stroke: 1.8-2.5mm
Medium Stroke: 3.0-3.5mm
Long Stroke: 4mm and above

Understanding these ranges will aid in selecting the appropriate machine for specific areas and techniques, optimizing your chances of achieving perfect pixels while minimizing skin trauma.

Matching Needle Throw with Stroke for Optimal Results

When you have a machine with a 3mm stroke, the stroke wheel's rotation produces a vertical movement of 1.5mm upward and 1.5mm downward in one complete cycle. If the needle throw - the distance the needle travels in its cartridge - is longer than this vertical stroke movement, the needle won't retract fully into the cartridge. This leads to inadequate pigment pickup, requiring you to dip the needle into the pigment more frequently.

Regarding the speed of the needle movement, a smaller stroke wheel will enable the needle to move more quickly, resulting in a higher actual number of strokes per minute. However, speed alone isn't sufficient; the "punch," or force of the needle, must also be adequate. More importantly, the cartridge needle throw should match the machine's stroke to ensure effective pigment delivery into the skin. If the stroke is longer, the area may become more saturated with pigment, making it easier to distinguish individual pixels. On the other hand, if the needle throw is too long, the needle may bend and not penetrate the skin effectively.

Generally, achieving "perfect pixels" often involves using a needle throw around 2mm. This means that this distance - from the needle tip to the cartridge at the lowest point of the machine's rotary wheel movement- should be around 2mm for optimal results.

6. Needle selection

Needle Diameter and Taper

The final touch point in applying pigment is the cartridge's needle part. The needle's diameter refers to its thickness, measured at its widest point on the shaft. The diameter of the needle shaft directly influences pixel size. Beyond a certain diameter, it becomes impossible to achieve smaller pixels.

Needle Taper and Its Impact on Pixel Size The taper of a needle refers to the length of its head—the distance over which the diameter of the shaft gradually narrows until it reaches the tip. Needles are typically classified into three categories based on the length of their taper. Those are the following.

Short taper: 1.5-2mm
Medium taper: 3.5mm
Long taper: 5mm or more

The taper length plays a significant role in determining the actual pixel size. A shorter taper results in larger pixels because it creates a "tunnel" with a larger diameter in the skin, causing more tissue trauma.

Needle Count and Pixel Size

The number of needles in the cartridge is another key factor that impacts pixel size. When the needle count is too high, more pigment is inserted into the skin, reducing the likelihood of achieving "perfect pixels." Cartridges with a single needle are often preferred for precision work, like the 1 RL, which stands for a single, round liner needle in the cartridge. Fewer needles generally mean higher accuracy. However, it's important to note that single needles are exceptionally sharp and require greater control and skill from the artist.

7. Hand movement

Importance of hand movement

The Role of Hand Movement Consistency in Pixel Roundness Achieving the perfect roundness of a pixel involves mastering the relationship between the consistency of your hand movement and the speed of the machine. The key is understanding how fast or slow you can move your hand with a steady, light grip. Once you figure that out, you can select the appropriate machine speed to match your hand movement. For instance, if your ideal hand movement is fast, you should adjust the machine speed and the voltage from the power unit to match that pace. Conversely, if your hand movement is slower and more deliberate, the machine's speed and voltage should be adjusted downward to align with that tempo.

Amplitude in Hand Movement

When discussing hand movement, amplitude is another crucial factor influencing pigment implantation and pixel shape. The amplitude refers to the distance your hand moves back and forth during each stroke, whether using the Whip or Pendulum movement techniques.

The proper amplitude is essential for achieving optimal distance between pixels and ensuring that the pixels are as round as possible. If your amplitude is small and your hand movement distance is short, there's a higher risk of the pixels merging into a line or forming oval shapes. On the other hand, a more extensive amplitude results in a greater distance between pixels.

However, achieving the "roundness" of perfect pixels also depends on the correct machine speed. If the machine moves too slowly, the result may be imperfect shapes, such as "comma-shaped" or "oval" pixels. Therefore, it's crucial to align the amplitude of your hand movement with the correct speed of the machine for optimal results.

Hand Movement Direction

When discussing hand movement direction, it's imperative for artists to maintain visibility of the needle making contact with the skin. This visibility ensures precision and safety during the pigmentation process. The specific hand positioning over the client's head may differ based on whether the artist is left or right-handed. However, the skin must be stretched taut in three directions, and the most secure movements are those executed toward the artist using a whip-like motion. It is crucial to understand that longer and faster hand movements require a higher degree of skill to create an impeccably pixelated area.

Movement Direction vs. Sections of the Brow

Experienced artists typically commence filling in the brows from the tail section using shorter whip movements to saturate the area thoroughly. This section is often intended to be the darkest and does not usually require pixelation. Movements progress toward the front of the brow, with the lower half of the brow typically worked on with motions directed toward the brow head. As the artist approaches the upper arch, the direction shifts to a more diagonal upward tilt. While individual artists may vary in hand movement length, many prefer pendulum motions for efficiency. However, if the goal is to achieve perfect pixels, such movements may be suboptimal.

Pixelating upper part of the brow

When working on the upper half of the brow, mainly when aiming for a soft pixelated look, it's necessary to employ movements from various angles to achieve a natural gradient. Any bleeding or weeping of lymph mixed with proteins should prompt immediate area cleansing. If bleeding persists, it is advisable to move on to another section and return only once the skin has settled and the bleeding has ceased. Ideally, there should be minimal to no bleeding during the pixelation process, ensuring a clean workspace and allowing for the precise placement of pigment.

8. Additional observations

Combining all these factors results in a complex equation for generating the ideal pixel. Physically speaking, your best approach for crafting a perfect pixel involves several elements:

Choose a high-quality machine with a medium stroke length for balanced control and impact.
Opt for a cartridge that allows enough needle throw without overextending, ideally featuring a single needle.

Use a long-taper needle for the utmost precision and control. The ideal technique is to punctuate each pixel into the skin at a 90-degree angle. While this approach may be utopian due to the extended procedure time it would require, it's used by many artists for crucial areas, like the brow's head and upper side. These areas are more visible, so each pixel is often added individually during the final phase of the procedure.

It's important to note that faster movements, although time-efficient, usually compromise pixel quality. As a rule of thumb, the quicker the pigment is delivered into the skin, the lower your chances of achieving perfect pixels. For areas where pixel clarity is vital, such as distinct parts of the brows, the whipping technique generally produces better results in terms of pixel quality compared to the pendulum movement.

Skin Oiliness and Pixels

Handling oily skin necessitates a delicate layering approach, entailing soft whipping across multiple passes. Artists should eschew rapid movements and aim to avoid rushing the procedure, as oily skin presents a heightened risk of pigment diffusion, especially when using organic pigments. The procedure should be performed at a lower machine speed, and pigments should be chosen in warmer hues, incorporating a yellow modifier into the selected color. Color layering might be necessary, and the pigment may appear more vivid immediately post-pigmentation than it would on drier skin types. While working on oily skin, pixels and gradients may be challenging to discern. In cases where the skin exhibits an "orange peel" texture, firmer stretching is advised to achieve the smoothest possible surface.

9. Conclusion

"Perfect pixels" refer to sharply defined, circular dots in prominent areas of the Powder Brow - specifically, areas with less hair, like the upper arch and the head of the brow. These pixels have sharp edges and are implanted deep enough to ensure retention comparable to other brow areas. Ideally, they should last between 12 and 18 months.

Creating these perfect pixels requires an intricate blend of variables such as the PMU machine's needle angle, penetration depth, and needle movement speed. The latter is influenced both by the machine's technical specifications and the artist's manual hand movements.

For optimal results, the needle angle should be precisely at 90 degrees. Additionally, the correct depth is indicated by minimal bleeding and the presence of pinkish lymph fluid. Any deviation from the proper depth can be sensed through the vibrations in the skin and the handpiece and audibly through the absence of a "cracking" sound upon skin penetration.

Technical speed is determined by the power settings, usually ranging from 4.6 to 5.4 volts, and the stroke wheel's diameter inside the PMU machine motor. A larger wheel diameter will slow the needle's speed, leading to more forceful hits and potentially greater skin trauma. On the other hand, a shorter stroke coupled with a higher needle speed may not provide enough power for adequate penetration depth. The key here is to select a cartridge that allows for sufficient, but not excessive, needle throw - with 2mm typically being a reliable choice.

Your manual hand movement needs to harmonize with the machine's speed. Finding this sweet spot relies on your consistent hand speed as an artist.

Creating perfect pixels one by one at a 90-degree angle with a single-needle cartridge is the ideal approach. However, this is time-consuming and most practical for more visible areas. Generally, faster procedures result in lower pixel quality, with whip movements usually causing less detriment to pixel quality than pendulum movements.

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Nastia

Thursday, Nov 09, 2023

I love it! I joined. An excellent site and very good and easy to follow systems. Ultimately the best site about powderbrows!

Erica

Wednesday, Nov 08, 2023

Very good piece! I like your site – easy and informative. Keep it going!

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