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2. Hybrid pigmetns

An attractive woman wearing a VR headset is in the center, a woman with a facial painting on the left, and a woman with a lipline made with a market on the right.

Misconceptions About Hybrid Pigments

One of the prevalent misunderstandings in the field of semi-permanent makeup is the concept of hybrid pigments. Many artists operate under the assumption that hybrid pigments are merely mixtures of organic and inorganic substances. They believe that by simply adding an organic toner or modifier to an inorganic pigment - or vice versa - they can create a hybrid pigment. This belief extends to the notion that "hybrid" pigments are created when organic and inorganic pigments are mixed together.

However, this is not the case. What artists often produce are simply mixtures, not true hybrid pigments. Chemically speaking, these mixtures consist of liquid carriers containing different molecules of separate substances. While these substances may share the same physical space, they have not undergone any molecular-level reactions to form new chemical bonds or produce new molecules. This confusion is further induced by producers who often use the “hybrid” term loosely to market some pigments better, which in their essence are basically either organic or inorganic just by technically adding the minimal amount of opposite elements to be able to declare the blend “hybrid”.

3. Different Hybrid pigments

Contrary to common belief, authentic hybrid pigments are not merely physical mixtures of organic and inorganic substances. They are, in fact, much more complex. In true hybrid pigments, organic and inorganic elements are chemically fused together at the molecular level. This fusion results in new molecules where the bonds between the elements have changed. The resulting "hybrid" molecules contain both organic and inorganic elements within the same new molecule.

Understanding the chemical complexity of true hybrid pigments can significantly impact the quality and longevity of work for PMU artists. Knowing the difference allows artists to make informed choices about their pigments, leading to more predictable and reliable results.

Demystifying the Concept of "Hybrid" Pigments

For many artists, especially those with limited experience in the realms of chemistry and physics, hybrid pigments often appear as a mystical "third category" of pigments. These artists may view hybrid pigments as a novel and superior solution compared to traditional organic or inorganic pigments. However, this viewpoint often arises from a lack of understanding of what constitutes a "hybrid" pigment.

In reality, the hybrid nature of a pigment, which involves a blend of organic and inorganic elements, does not change the fundamental properties of its main colorants. Pigments, whether hybrid or not, generally contain key colorants like red, yellow, and black. Among these, black is often the most influential colorant. Therefore, the evaluation of a "hybrid" pigment should still be based on the properties of the organic or inorganic components that are primarily responsible for its coloring capabilities.

4. Pseudo-hybrids

A laughing elderly scientist looking excited on the left and an attractive young woman wearing a VR headset on the right.

The Marketing Aspect of "Hybrid" Pigments

Turning a pigment "hybrid" isn't always a move to improve its properties. Sometimes, it's a marketing tactic, plain and simple. A case in point is the addition of inorganic titanium dioxide to an organic pigment or corrector to label it as a "hybrid." When it comes to brow pigments, this is generally not a positive feature. In fact, the presence of titanium dioxide in the pigment blend is often considered a downside, particularly when discussing pigments used for initial procedures, as opposed to correctors or modifiers.

Why can the producers do it?

This is partly because consumers often lack in-depth knowledge about the subject, and there's also a lack of strict regulations around pigment production for the beauty industry. In fact, pigments are generally versatile and can be used across a wide range of applications—everything from food and ship coatings to clothing and eyebrow coloring. There is no classification of “pigments for the beauty industry,” and that allows a much more creative approach from the side of producers.

Cosmetic change vs. new products

This regulatory leniency allows many manufacturers to rebrand their existing organic or inorganic pigments as "hybrid" by adding a minimal amount of the opposite element. While this addition can sometimes enhance the pigment's properties, there are instances where it may compromise quality or safety. Thus, one should be critical when evaluating marketing messages from several producers who have revamped their organic or inorganic collections to “new, improved hybrid formula,” often not making them better at all and sometimes making them even worse.

Labels often convey no real information

Labeling requirements for these products are also not particularly stringent. This means that scrutinizing a product's label may not necessarily provide a clear understanding of its composition or effectiveness. As a result, it's essential to approach marketing claims about "hybrid" pigments with skepticism, particularly when they tout the benefits of "the best of both worlds." Exercise caution and critical thinking when evaluating these products.

Understanding the true nature and properties of hybrid pigments can save artists from misconceptions that could affect their work quality. Recognizing that the "hybrid" label is not a guarantee of superior performance can help artists make more informed choices about the pigments they select, ensuring more reliable and consistent results in their practice.

5. Solution to “red” brows

An attractive woman wearing a VR headset on the left, a bald woman with head and shoulders visible with horizontal red lines painted on her in the center, and a small silver-colored package on the right.

Science Meets Technique

When it comes to the “real” hybrid pigments, the concept of blending organic and inorganic elements can offer genuine benefits when done with scientific precision and a focus on improving pigment quality. Generally, this involves leveraging the attributes of organic elements to counterbalance the drawbacks of inorganic elements or vice versa. Let's delve into a concrete example to understand this better.

“Red brow” mystery solved

A case of a “real” hybrid is the creation of a protective layer of iron oxide through the silanization process. This is explained in the following sections. Understanding this enables us to understand the “mystery of brows turning red”.

What happens when iron oxides enter the skin

When iron oxides are used as colorants in semi-permanent pigments and are introduced into the skin, several biochemical and physicochemical processes can occur that may contribute to a change in color over time. Iron oxides like Fe2O3 (hematite) and Fe3O4 (magnetite) are usually stable, but under certain conditions, they can undergo oxidation or other chemical reactions, which can affect the stability of the pigment's color.

Factors Contributing to Oxidation

The skin is not a static environment; it's dynamic and filled with various biological molecules, enzymes, and cellular components. One such molecule that can play a crucial role in the oxidation process is the protein known as ferritin. Ferritin acts as an iron-storage protein and can interact with iron ions, facilitating oxidation processes. Environmental factors such as exposure to UV light, as well as body chemistry variables like pH levels and enzymatic activity, can also contribute to the oxidation process.

Thus, for a long time, iron oxides like Fe2O3 and Fe3O4 have been criticized for their tendency to turn rusty, resulting in brows that take on a reddish hue over time, for a good reason - it really did happen, and the culprit here was indeed ferritin, a protein that binds to iron and other metals.

The Red Brow Phenomenon: A Chemical Explanation

Iron oxides in the skin can react with ferment ferritin, leading to the formation of ferric ions (Fe3+). These ferric ions can further react with oxygen and other elements, undergoing a series of redox reactions that result in a change in the oxidation state of the iron. This change can manifest as a shift in color from the original hue to a reddish or rusty appearance. The reaction can be generalized as:

Fe2O3 + ferritin → Fe3+ + O2 + other products

This reaction can cause the iron oxide to change form and bond differently, affecting its optical properties and resulting in the "red brow" phenomenon.

Understanding Ferritin

Understanding the role of ferment ferritin is critical in this context. Ferritin acts as a sort of biological magnet, attracting iron ions and facilitating a chemical reaction that can cause iron oxide pigments to degrade, ultimately leading to a reddish or rusty appearance. The longer the pigment remains in the skin, the more susceptible it becomes to this transformation, thanks to the ongoing activity of ferment ferritin.

Ferritin's Role in Iron Storage and Degradation

Ferritin serves to store iron in a non-toxic form and deposit it safely. Aggregated ferritin transforms into a toxic form of iron called hemosiderin. The protein structure of ferritin is complex, consisting of 24 protein subunits forming a hollow nanocage with multiple metal–protein interactions. Inside the ferritin shell, iron ions form crystallites together with phosphate and hydroxide ions, resembling ferrihydrite. Each ferritin complex can store about 4500 iron (Fe3+) ions.

In simplest terms, the presence of iron oxides in semi-permanent pigments can interact with the protein ferritin in the body. This interaction may lead to chemical reactions that cause a change in the oxidation state of the iron. As a result, the altered form of iron can reflect light differently, leading to a reddish, pinkish, or rusty appearance in the pigment. The Role of Silica in Stabilizing Iron Oxide Pigments

To address this issue, chemists turned to the concept of hybrid pigments. By fusing mineral iron oxide molecules with organic polymetal silica, a protective "coating" was achieved. This coating functions much like a barrier, akin to how a condom works.

Initially, this coating technique was developed in the field of industrial coatings to protect metals against environmental degradation. Recognizing its potential, experts in the field of semi-permanent makeup pigments adapted this approach. The silica coating acts as a shield, preventing the iron oxide from reacting with ferritin and thus neutralizing the risk of the pigment turning red post-application.

The creation of “protective coating” explained

This protective "coating" is created by fusing mineral iron oxide molecules with organic polymetal silica. Initially, this coating technique was developed in the field of industrial coatings to protect metals from environmental degradation. Here, silica-based coatings, specifically using tetraethoxysilane (TEOS) and mercaptopropyltrimethoxysilane (MPTMS), were employed to surface modify iron oxide magnetic nanoparticles. These coatings were extensively characterized and found to offer stability against environmental factors and high temperatures. Recognizing the success of this approach, experts in the field of semi-permanent makeup pigments adapted it. Now, the silica coating acts as a shield, preventing the iron oxide from reacting with ferritin, thus neutralizing the risk of the pigment turning red post-application.

6. Silanization

In the realm of advanced materials science, the process of fusing mineral iron oxide molecules with organic polymetal silica is essentially a surface modification technique designed to enhance the chemical stability and functional properties of iron oxide. This technique is known as “silanization."

General overview of the process

Preparation of Silane Coupling Agents. Tetraethoxysilane (TEOS) and mercaptopropyltrimethoxysilane (MPTMS) are typically used as silane coupling agents. These agents are prepared in a solvent, often ethanol or another alcohol, sometimes with the addition of water and an acid or base catalyst.

Surface Activation. Iron oxide particles are often cleaned and activated, usually by treating them with an acid or a base, to ensure that the silane coupling agents can readily bond with their surface.

Silanization. The activated iron oxide particles are mixed with the prepared silane coupling agent solution. The reaction conditions, like temperature and time, are controlled to facilitate the bonding of the silica groups to the surface of iron oxide particles. This creates a covalent bond between the iron oxide surface and the silane coupling agent.

Chemical Reactions

The precise formula of the reaction can vary depending on the specific silane coupling agent used, but for a general idea, consider the reaction with TEOS:

Fe2O3+(EtO)4Si→Fe2O3−Si(OEt)3

Here, EtO refers to the ethoxy group.

For MPTMS, the formula might look something like:

Fe2O3+(CH3O)3Si−CH2−CH2−CH2−SH→Fe2O3−Si(OCH3)2−CH2−CH2−CH2−SH

The "Si(OCH3)2" group, in this case, represents the coupling agent covalently bonded to the iron oxide, while the "SH" group is a functional handle that can be used for further modification.

This silanization process results in a silica-based coating that acts as a protective barrier around the iron oxide, shielding it from unwanted reactions with substances like ferritin, which is crucial in applications like semi-permanent makeup pigments.

Simply put, the "hybrid" nature of these pigments is more than just a marketing term; it addresses a long-standing issue in pigment stability and color retention. Understanding these intricate details can greatly assist PMU artists in making informed choices, and improving service quality and client satisfaction.

8. Carbothermal reduction

Let us look closer at what carbothermal reduction is. Typically it is carried out at high temperatures in an inert atmosphere, often using nitrogen or argon gas to prevent unwanted oxidation. The process involves solid-state reactions, meaning the reactants are in the solid phase. Elemental carbon, usually in the form of graphite or charcoal, is indeed used as the reducing agent in this reaction.

The process generally begins with the careful weighing and mixing of the elemental carbon and Black Iron Oxide (Fe3O4). They are then heated to elevated temperatures, generally ranging from 800°C to 1300°C. At these high temperatures, elemental carbon reduces Fe3O4 to produce elemental iron (Fe) and carbon dioxide (CO2) or carbon monoxide (CO).

The overall balanced chemical equation for the reaction involving carbon and Fe3O4 can be expressed as follows:

3Fe3O4+4C→4CO2+9Fe or

3Fe3O4+4C→4CO+9Fe

During the heating process, the carbon and Fe3O4 react at the boundary layers of their respective particles. The carbon dioxide or carbon monoxide produced escapes as gas, leaving behind elemental iron and a stabilized iron-carbon compound, often denoted as C Fe3O4. So, to summarize, elemental carbon is used, the reactants are mixed and then heated in sequence, and the result of the process can be captured by the balanced chemical equation given above.

This type of black pigment (CI 77266 + 77499) is highly valued in the semi-permanent makeup industry for several reasons. It is non-magnetic, has a very opaque, rich black color, stable, and fairly easy to implant.

9. Conclusions

The term "hybrid pigments" is frequently used without strict definition in the realm of semi-permanent makeup. This is mainly because there's no specific set of criteria governing what can be labeled as a "hybrid" in the beauty industry. Often, producers add a minimal amount of the opposite type of element to their existing organic or inorganic pigment ranges, rebrand them as "hybrids," and complete the required paperwork. As such, consumers should exercise caution when encountering such pigment blends, which can essentially be considered "pseudo-hybrids." These pigments largely retain the dominant properties of either their organic or inorganic components.

Understanding the actual composition of these pigments is crucial for gauging how their organic or inorganic properties will affect the end result of pigmentation. Unlike pseudo-hybrids, which are merely blends, "true" hybrid pigments undergo molecular-level fusion of organic and inorganic components.

One instance of true hybridization is the process of silanization, used to modify iron oxide molecules by coating them with organic silica. Standard mineral iron in the skin interacts with ferritin, a protein, leading to chemical reactions that can change the iron's oxidation state. These altered forms of iron can then produce undesired color shifts to reddish or rusty hues. Silanized iron oxide mitigates this issue by remaining stable and not reacting with ferritin similarly.

Another example is the carbothermal reduction of black iron oxide, where iron oxide is chemically combined with carbon. This creates stable, opaque molecules that won't produce a bluish tint when implanted into the skin. This process addresses the issue of "blue brows" effectively. Importantly, in both of these examples, the transformation occurs at a molecular level, signifying that they are indeed "true" hybrid pigments.

Hybrid Pigments

1. Background

2. Hybrid pigmetns

Misconceptions About Hybrid Pigments

3. Different Hybrid pigments

Demystifying the Concept of "Hybrid" Pigments

4. Pseudo-hybrids