Iron oxides in pigmetns

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1. Background

This article is based on interviews with 41 pigmentation artists who have used inorganic pigments and hybrid pigments with inorganic bases for over three years and tested their retention and transformation in the skin. A dermatologist, chemist, and an expert in cellular biology have analyzed the artist's observations. This article aims to shed light on using Iron oxides.

General Information

Black Iron Oxide is identified in the Color Index by the code CI 77499 and is an inorganic, hydrophobic pigment. Hydrophobic means that the substance repels water, making it less likely to blend with water-based solutions; it’s water-repellent and not sourced from organic materials. It often falls under the iron oxide category in its second oxidation stage. The chemical formula for Black Iron Oxide is Fe3O4, which uniquely contains iron in both the +2 and +3 oxidation states.

In terms of color, Black Iron Oxide displays a rich, warm hue. It's a lighter color than Carbon Black and tends to shift toward warmer tones over time. This difference in color intensity between Black Iron Oxide and Carbon Black is mainly due to their particle sizes. To make it easy to understand, large particles like Black Iron Oxide appear lighter, while smaller particles like Carbon Black look darker.

2. No "beauty industry" Iron oxides

Iron oxide's purity, particle size, and stability are crucial in the context of semi-permanent makeup. Impurities or poor stability can lead to unexpected color changes or interactions with the skin, while the particle size can affect the color's intensity and longevity. Therefore, understanding the production method is vital for assessing the quality and suitability of the iron oxide used in pigments. No specific “beauty industry iron oxide.”

Iron oxides used in the cosmetic industry, including those in semi-permanent pigments, are generally not distinct from those used in other industries. The categorization of iron oxides does not typically differentiate based on the end application, whether it be cosmetics, paints, or coatings.

Iron oxides are compounds composed primarily of iron and oxygen, known for their stability, non-toxicity, and range of vibrant colors. They are widely used as colorants across various industries due to these properties. The key forms include red iron oxide (Fe2O3), black iron oxide (Fe3O4 or magnetite), and yellow iron oxide (FeOOH), among others. The same basic compounds are used across different applications, including cosmetics, paints, plastics, and concrete.

Cosmetic Grade vs. Industrial Grade

While the chemical composition of iron oxides remains consistent across industries, the purity and particle size can vary. “cosmetic grade” iron oxides are used for cosmetic applications, including semi-permanent makeup. These are subjected to stringent purification processes to remove impurities like heavy metals, which might be acceptable in paints or coatings but not in products applied to the skin. The particle size is also controlled to achieve the desired color intensity and consistency. However, the fundamental chemical structure of the iron oxide does not change.

Iron Oxides in Various Industries

Cosmetics (including semi-permanent pigments). Used for coloring products like foundation, blush, eyeshadow, and semi-permanent makeup. The iron oxides used here are purified to meet safety standards for skin application.
Paints and Coatings. Iron oxides provide color for a variety of paints and coatings. The same iron oxides that give a vibrant red to lipstick might be used to paint a barn or coat a piece of machinery, albeit potentially with different purity levels and particle sizes.
Plastics and Rubbers. Iron oxides are used to color various plastic and rubber products. The robustness and stability of iron oxides make them suitable for these applications.
Concrete and Building Materials. Iron oxides are used to color concrete products and other building materials, providing an array of aesthetic options.

Therefore, while the base chemical may be the same, the cosmetic industry requires iron oxides that meet specific safety standards. Cosmetic-grade iron oxides undergo processes to ensure they are safe for prolonged contact with the skin, do not contain harmful impurities, and provide consistent and predictable color. The particle size is often smaller and more uniform, providing a smoother application and finish suitable for cosmetic products.

While the basic chemical structure of iron oxides remains consistent across various industries, the specifics of their processing and purification differ significantly when used in cosmetics.

3. Production methods of Iron oxide

When it comes to the production of iron oxide for colorants, in general, different methods can be used. For example, the following: Inverse Microemulsion. It involves creating a microemulsion where the aqueous phase is dispersed in the organic phase, leading to nanoparticles of controlled sizes. It's particularly useful for creating iron oxide nanoparticles with specific properties.

Sol-Gel Synthesis. This chemical process typically starts with a colloidal solution (sol), the precursor for an integrated network (gel) of discrete particles or network polymers. It's a versatile method, allowing for doping iron oxide with other elements to alter its properties.
Flow Injection. This technique is often used in analytical chemistry, but its application in synthesizing iron oxides is less common. It involves rapidly injecting reactants into a flowing stream to create iron oxide particles.
Electrospray Synthesis. This method uses an electric field to create fine particles from a liquid solution. It can produce iron oxide nanoparticles with a high degree of control over size and morphology.
Sonochemical Method. This method uses ultrasound energy to induce reactions and is valid for producing iron oxide nanoparticles. The acoustic cavitation produced by ultrasound can generate the extreme temperatures and pressures needed to form these particles.
Hydrothermal Synthesis. This is widely used for producing a variety of iron oxides. It involves reacting raw materials under high water pressure and temperature in a sealed vessel, typically an autoclave. This method is known for producing high-purity and crystallinity materials.
Thermal Decomposition. This method involves heating a precursor to decompose it into iron oxide. This process often produces iron oxide nanoparticles with excellent size, shape, and crystallinity control.
Coprecipitation Method. This is one of the simplest and most efficient methods for synthesizing iron oxide nanoparticles. It involves the simultaneous precipitation of Fe2+ and Fe3+ ions in an alkaline medium.
Mechanical Milling. This solid-state mixing of powders is used to prepare more complex or mixed-phase materials such as spinel or magnetite.

Although, as we have discussed earlier, although there are many production methods to get iron oxides available, there is a shorter list of production methods that are generally viable for producing iron oxides that can be used in semi-permanent pigment colorants. In the realm of producing iron oxides for semi-permanent pigmentation pigments, the choice of synthesis method significantly impacts the purity, particle size, morphology, and, consequently, the safety and suitability of the iron oxides for cosmetic use.

4. Use in the beauty industry

Thus, methods that are generally considered viable for beauty industry-grade iron oxide production include:

Sol-Gel Synthesis. This method is promising for cosmetic applications because it produces iron oxides with controlled particle sizes and shapes. The sol-gel process can create iron oxide nanoparticles with high purity, which is crucial for minimizing adverse skin reactions in semi-permanent makeup.
Hydrothermal Synthesis. This method is also suitable for producing high-purity iron oxides. Hydrothermal synthesis's controlled temperature and pressure conditions allow for producing well-defined and uniform particles. The purity and consistency of hydrothermal synthesis make it a viable option for creating iron oxides for semi-permanent pigmentation.
Thermal Decomposition. This method can produce highly pure iron oxides with controlled particle sizes. The high-temperature conditions involved in thermal decomposition facilitate the removal of impurities, which is crucial for products applied to the skin. The resulting iron oxides from this method could be suitable for semi-permanent pigmentation, provided they undergo rigorous post-synthesis purification.
Sonochemical Method. While less common, the sonochemical method can produce small and uniform nanoparticles. If the process is carefully controlled and followed by thorough purification, the iron oxides produced could potentially be used in semi-permanent pigmentation pigments. However, the scalability and control of particle characteristics need to be considered.

Importance of removing impurities

It's essential to note that regardless of the synthesis method, any iron oxide intended for use in semi-permanent makeup must undergo rigorous purification to remove impurities, particularly heavy metals. They must also be finely milled to achieve the appropriate particle size for cosmetic use, ensuring a smooth application and minimizing the risk of adverse skin reactions.

Moreover, post-synthesis processing, including sterilization and testing for biocompatibility and allergenicity, is crucial. The final product should adhere to strict regulatory standards for cosmetics to ensure safety and efficacy.

In practice, the choice of method will depend on factors like the desired properties of the iron oxide, cost, scalability of the process, and the manufacturer's capability to ensure the purity and safety of the final product. As a professional in this field, you'd seek to balance these factors, always prioritizing the safety and satisfaction of the end-users who will be receiving the semi-permanent pigmentation treatments.

5. Sunthetic production - a standard

Some producers introduce pigmetns lines that contain iron oxides. Sometimes, they present those as if they were produced with “revolutionary” or “next-generation” methods. Those claims have to be evaluated critically. Some of those claims are unfounded, some greatly exaggerated, and some can represent improvement (mainly regarding purification).

For example all marketing descriptions of pigments containing iron oxides, which refer to those being produced “synthetically”, are rushing through an open door, because synthetic production of iron oxides for the cosmetic industry, including for use in pigments, has been the standard practice for several decades, dating back to at least the early to mid-20th century.

The shift from natural iron oxides (extracted directly from iron ore) to synthetic ones occurred primarily because synthetic methods can produce purer, more consistent, and safer products. In the realm of cosmetics, and especially in applications as sensitive as semi-permanent pigmentation, the purity and consistency of the pigment are paramount for safety and performance. To the best of current knowledge, there hasn't been a producer that extracts iron oxides for cosmetic pigments directly from iron ore. Controlling impurities like heavy metals is not feasible with natural iron oxides, making synthetic production the preferred and standard method for cosmetics.

Problematic natural methods

The production of iron oxides from natural iron ore is generally less expensive than synthetic methods, primarily because the natural method involves direct extraction and processing of the ore. However, the lower cost of natural iron oxide production is outweighed by its significant disadvantages for cosmetic use, including inconsistency in color, impurities, and the potential presence of toxic elements. While more costly, synthetic production offers a high degree of control over the iron oxide's purity, particle size, and color. This control is crucial in applications like semi-permanent makeup, where safety and color consistency are critical. These stringent requirements and the overall superior quality of the final product justify the higher cost of synthetic production.

Progress

in Synthetic Production

While there haven't been abrupt revolutionary changes in the production of synthetic iron oxides, significant evolutionary advancements have improved their quality and safety. These include the following.

Enhanced Purity and Consistency. Improvements in synthetic methods have allowed for the production of iron oxides with higher purity and more uniform particle sizes, essential for consistency and safety in cosmetic applications.
Customization of Particle Size and Shape. Advances in synthesis techniques like sol-gel, hydrothermal, and thermal decomposition have enabled the production of iron oxides with specific particle sizes and shapes, allowing for tailored application properties in semi-permanent makeup.
Greener Synthesis Methods. There's a growing focus on more environmentally friendly synthetic methods that reduce waste and energy consumption, reflecting a broader industry trend toward sustainability.
Regulatory Compliance. As regulations around cosmetic ingredients have become more stringent, synthetic methods have adapted to ensure that iron oxides meet the highest safety standards, including minimizing heavy metal content and other impurities.

While these advancements can not be termed “revolutionary,” they represent significant progress in the field, continually enhancing the safety, performance, and sustainability of iron oxides used in semi-permanent pigmentation and other cosmetic applications.

6. ECHA compliant - “empty” term

When an iron oxide is described as "ECHA compliant," it's somewhat of a misnomer or marketing term. The European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) is the regulatory body responsible for enforcing REACH and other chemical regulations in the EU. It does not directly "issue" REACH but is tasked with its implementation and enforcement. Therefore, "ECHA compliant" isn't officially recognized or defined.

The correct and meaningful term is "REACH compliant." If a pigment is to be sold within the European Union, it must comply with REACH regulations. Since ECHA oversees REACH compliance, a substance that meets REACH criteria effectively complies with ECHA's enforcement of EU chemical regulations. In this sense, while the phrase "ECHA compliant" is not formally defined, a pigment meeting REACH requirements complies with the standards and regulations enforced by ECHA.

Thus, while "ECHA compliant" might be used in marketing to suggest regulatory adherence, the substantive and recognized term reflecting compliance with EU chemical regulations is "REACH compliant." A REACH-compliant pigment is, by extension, compliant with the standards enforced by ECHA.

Difference Between ECHA and REACH

Therefore, ECHA (European Chemicals Agency) is the regulatory agency responsible for implementing chemical legislation in the European Union. It oversees the enforcement of various chemical regulations, including REACH.

REACH (Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation, and Restriction of Chemicals) is a regulation of the European Union designed to improve the protection of human health and the environment from the risks posed by chemicals. REACH places the responsibility on companies to manage the risks and provide safety information on the substances they produce or import into the EU.

In simple terms, ECHA is the agency, while REACH is one of the regulations that ECHA enforces.

7. REACH Compliance

REACH itself does not specifically restrict the use of iron oxides. Instead, it provides a framework for registering and evaluating substances based on their safety for human health and the environment. The regulation requires all chemicals, including iron oxides, to be registered with ECHA, providing detailed information on their properties, uses, and safe handling instructions.

While REACH does not set specific criteria for the “purity” or “cleanliness” of iron oxides, it requires identifying hazardous impurities and appropriately managing their risks. Companies must also comply with applicable restrictions and ensure safe use throughout the supply chain. Additional regulations, such as the EU Cosmetics Regulation, also come into play for iron oxides used in cosmetics, setting higher standards for purity and safety for human use. In summary, while REACH does not explicitly restrict iron oxides, it necessitates a comprehensive safety evaluation and adherence to any relevant restrictions to ensure their safe use.

Getting REACH Compliance

Many manufacturers who have achieved REACH compliance assert that procuring reasonably high-quality iron oxide for pigments significantly simplifies obtaining compliance. Practically speaking, achieving REACH compliance primarily involves obtaining a detailed chemical analysis from a certified laboratory within the European Union. This analysis must confirm that the sample of iron oxide sent to the laboratory does not contain toxic elements exceeding the thresholds specified by REACH regulations.

The manufacturer must then maintain the documentation to demonstrate that the pigment's composition meets established safety standards. In essence, provided the iron oxide sourced is of decent quality and the chemical consistency aligns with REACH's stipulated limits for hazardous substances, attaining compliance is a straightforward procedural matter, contingent on rigorous and accurate laboratory analysis and appropriate record-keeping. In simple terms, if the iron oxide is of substantial quality, it is “hard not to get” such compliance.

8. Producers vs. Brand owners

Most brand owners call themselves “producers” in the pigment market but do not directly produce their components, nor do they typically own the industrial facilities required to synthesize or substantially modify raw materials like iron oxide. Instead, these brands often act as intermediaries, purchasing pre-made components from global manufacturers specializing in pigment production. This approach allows them to focus on branding, marketing, and distribution while relying on the established quality standards of their suppliers.

Reliance on Supplier Quality Standards

These brand owners rely heavily on their suppliers' reputations and quality assurance as intermediaries. They trust that the iron oxide and other components they purchase meet purity and safety standards. This reliance underscores the importance of supplier selection in maintaining product quality and safety. Brand owners must diligently vet their suppliers and ensure that the materials they procure align with their market's regulatory requirements and quality expectations.

Capabilities of Actual Producers

Only those entities that actually own and operate the manufacturing facilities and have the necessary certifications can legitimately claim to modify or purify components like iron oxide. These producers have the technical capabilities and regulatory clearance to reprocess raw materials, potentially removing unwanted impurities or adjusting properties to meet specific standards. Their claims of 'purification' or modification are grounded in the physical and chemical processes they can perform in their certified facilities.

The “impossibility" of Non-Compliance

Iron oxide itself is not on the list of substances restricted by REACH. Therefore, iron oxide as a raw material would generally be considered REACH-compliant unless it contains impurities or additives under REACH restrictions. As discussed, the regulation does not set specific “quality standards” for iron oxide as a colorant in terms of purity or performance. However, if a pigment formulation contains additional components restricted by REACH, the entire formulation could become non-compliant. Compliance for pigments, therefore, depends not only on the iron oxide used but also on the entire composition of the pigment and its adherence to REACH regulations.

9. Conclusions

Iron Oxide in the Cosmetic Industry

The assertion that there have been “revolutionary transformations” in producing iron oxides for semi-permanent makeup is more of a marketing stance than a scientific breakthrough. Iron oxides used in cosmetics are chemically identical to those used in other industrial applications. There isn't a unique "cosmetic grade" iron oxide; the same fundamental compounds are utilized across various industries. The key differentiator for cosmetics is the stringent purity, particle size, and safety requirement.

Quality and Compliance of Iron Oxides

Pigment producers must source iron oxides that meet specific criteria: sufficient quality, appropriately small and uniform particle size, and compliance with legal limits for toxic substances. All modern iron oxides are synthetically produced in laboratories. Natural extraction from iron ore has been obsolete since the mid-20th century. Consequently, claims of using "synthetically produced iron oxide" are redundant, as there is virtually no alternative in contemporary production.

Production Methods

The principal methods for producing iron oxides with desirable properties for semi-permanent makeup include Sol-Gel Synthesis, Hydrothermal Synthesis, Thermal Decomposition, and the Sonochemical Method. While the fundamental techniques have remained consistent, there have been improvements in controlling particle size and enhancing purity, which are crucial for the safety and performance of pigments in cosmetic applications.

Regulatory Compliance

In the EU, all pigment substances must comply with REACH regulations the European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) enforced. Therefore, a pigment being "REACH compliant" inherently means it adheres to the standards set and enforced by ECHA. The term "ECHA compliant" as a separate category is misleading and unnecessary.

Iron oxide in itself complaint with REACH

Importantly, REACH does not specifically restrict the use of iron oxides. Compliance issues might arise from other components within the pigment mixture that might fall under REACH restrictions.

Claims of Purity and Quality

While most producers claim their iron oxides are "purified," "high quality," and "clean of toxic elements," these claims need independent verification. Typically, producers without their manufacturing capabilities source iron oxide of sufficient quality from global suppliers. The notion of these producers further "purifying" iron oxide is generally unfounded unless they have the specialized equipment and processes.

Therefore, while the cosmetic industry, particularly the semi-permanent makeup sector, relies on high-quality, pure iron oxides, marketing materials often misrepresent the scientific and production landscape. Professionals and consumers alike must understand the reality behind these claims, recognizing the importance of synthetic production, regulatory compliance, and the scope of innovation in iron oxide production for cosmetic pigments. As always, stringent adherence to safety and quality standards is paramount to ensure end-users' well-being.