5. Practical suggestions for mixing
Always move from lighter to darker when mixing
As a semi-permanent makeup artist specializing in Powder Brows, it's crucial to have a clear understanding of how pigments work, especially when it comes to mixing them. A common misconception is that mixing pigments somehow alters their chemical structure, but that's false. When you mix pigments, you're actually adding different color molecules to the skin. This changes the way the color appears in the brows but doesn't change the fundamental chemistry of the pigments involved.
Here's an essential point to remember: because the pigments' chemistry remains unchanged when mixed, the resulting color can only get darker, never lighter. This is why starting with lighter base colors, such as pigments with yellow-based or red-based orange and light brown hues, is advisable. Starting lighter allows you greater flexibility to add black colorant in darker (or often close to black-looking) pigment and gradually approach the desired color.
Trying to do it the other way around - starting with darker pigments and attempting to lighten them - isn’t effective. In fact, it's practically impossible and can result in far too dark brows. Always remember that adding more darkness to a color is easier than lighting it up.
So, the best practice is to start with a lighter base color and carefully add darker tones, working your way up to achieve the precise shade you aim for. This approach not only helps you get the color right but also conserves pigment and minimizes the risk of ending up with brows that are darker than intended.
Mixing together two pigments is enough
When you want to make the color warmer and create a new shade, then mix together just two pigments. The reasons for that are the following. Firstly, mixing multiple pigments doesn't produce new colors from a chemical standpoint. The basic chemistry of the pigments remains the same; you're simply introducing more color molecules into the skin. So, combining more than two pigments doesn't offer any unique advantages in terms of creating new shades.
Secondly, limiting the number of pigments in your mix makes replicating that shade easier for future clients. When you start mixing three or more pigments, the complexity of your formula increases, making it difficult to reproduce the same results consistently.
You may wonder why some pigment training courses or trainers encourage mixing multiple pigments. Often, the reason has less to do with science and more with business or marketing motives. By making the field of pigmentology seem more complex than it is, trainers have more material to teach. Moreover, if the training is affiliated with a pigment maker offering a wide range of products, encouraging the use of multiple pigments can increase sales.
Thus, keep it simple. Stick to a maximum of two pigments to maintain the integrity of the shade, simplify future applications, and avoid unnecessary complexity that doesn't benefit you or your clients.
Keep the ratios simple
When it comes to mixing pigments for Powder Brows, simplicity is key. Experienced artists generally recommend using straightforward ratios like 1:1 or 2:1, where the lighter pigment forms the larger part. These ratios are measured in drops straight from the pigment bottle.
Why opt for simple ratios? The first reason is consistency. Sticking to uncomplicated ratios like 1:1 or 2:1 makes it much easier for you to recreate the same color mix for future clients. The more complex the ratio, the more variables you introduce, making it increasingly challenging to replicate the color accurately.
Secondly, simple ratios are more efficient and result in less waste. Imagine using an uneven ratio like 3:5 or 4:7. If you run out of pigment partway through the procedure and need to mix a little more, you'll end up wasting pigment. That's because these uneven ratios require you to prepare more pigment than you need, leaving some to waste.
“Secret ratios” debunked
Now, you might hear about trainers advocating for more complex ratios. It's important to note that these recommendations are rarely based on chemistry or any scientific rationale. The push for complicated ratios is often a marketing tactic designed to make the training content seem more exclusive or specialized. But in actual practice, such "secret" ratios are unnecessary and can complicate your work without offering any real advantages. Thus, when mixing pigments, stick to simple, easy-to-remember ratios. This approach not only aids in consistent results but also minimizes waste, helping you work efficiently and effectively.