Getting to know needle cartridges

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1. Background

This article is informed by data gathered from interviews conducted with 41 powder brows and hairstrokes artists in various research projects. The majority of these artists, 34 in total, are based in the EU, with 5 from the UK and 2 from the US. Each artist has at least four years of experience in pigmentation procedures, including powder brows and other techniques. The research projects from which this information was sourced spanned from 2020 to 2023, and many are still ongoing.

This article delves into the specific properties of needles required for the hairstrokes procedure, going beyond the basic attributes. We aim to provide a more advanced perspective that is particularly beneficial for artists who are starting to specialize in semi-permanent pigmentation techniques. By focusing on the nuanced aspects of needle properties, this article seeks to enhance the understanding and skills of beginner artists in this field.

2. Basic Markers

Many artists tend to focus primarily on the basic markers of needle cartridges, often overlooking their nuanced characteristics. To illustrate, consider the example “1 RL 0.3 MT”. As previously discussed on the powderbrows.com platform, these markers represent, respectively, the number of needles, the needle formation (such as round liner, round shader, etc.), the needle diameter (commonly 0.25mm, 0.30mm, or 0.35mm), and the taper length (short, medium, or long taper).

These basic markers are essential as they provide initial information about the needle's properties directly from the packaging. However, for procedures like powder brows and hairstrokes, a professional artist should understand many more subtle and intricate aspects of needles. These nuanced properties go beyond what is immediately apparent from the basic markers and can significantly impact the outcome of pigmentation procedures. In the following sections, we'll delve deeper into these advanced characteristics to enhance the proficiency of artists, especially those who are new to semi-permanent pigmentation techniques.

3. Flat or Sloped Tip

An important aspect to consider when analyzing a needle cartridge is the design of its tip, particularly the plastic part. By examining the tip of the cartridge, you can discern whether it is flat or sloped.

If the tip is sloped on one side, the artist must understand that the needle behaves differently depending on the direction of the whipping motion. Specifically, whipping towards the artist, with the sloped side facing the artist, results in a stable and firm needle. Conversely, the needle tends to bend more when whipping in the opposite direction - away from the slope. This means the same needle can perform as either “soft” or “hard,” depending solely on the whipping direction.

Different “flexibility” in opposite directions

Flat-tip needles, on the other hand, generally offer more stability. They tend to be firmer and less prone to bending because the flat design of the cartridge tip restricts needle flexibility. In powder brows and hairstrokes procedures, artist preferences vary: some favor “softer” and more flexible needles, while others prefer “harder” ones. Typically, for line work, harder needle cartridges are favored for their stability, facilitating more precise needle movements.

From a practical standpoint, it is crucial for artists to clearly evaluate the cartridge tip and understand its level of flexibility. In some cases, without this understanding, an artist might find the needle behaving as “flexible” when whipped in one direction and “hard” when whipping in the opposite direction. Recognizing this can significantly impact the control and outcome of the pigmentation procedure.

4. Needle Bending in Precision Work

In precision tasks such as hairstrokes, machine vibration is crucial in determining the procedure's effectiveness. Many professional artists emphasize that machines with minimal vibration are preferable for line work and creating hairstrokes, provided they generate sufficient power for needle penetration.

Less vibration often means more precision

Vibrations from the machine are directly transferred to the needle. A common technique employed by professional artists to counteract this is needle bending. Before the procedure, artists carefully inspect the needle's position and gently bend it to one side using the thumb of one hand. This slight bending is known to significantly stabilize the needle's movement within the cartridge, thereby reducing bending and undesirable flexibility during the procedure.

This method of needle bending is not just about adjusting the needle physically; it's also about enhancing control and accuracy. The aim is to minimize the impact of machine vibrations and ensure that the needle moves precisely as intended on the skin. This technique is particularly beneficial when performing intricate work like hairstrokes, where even a small deviation can affect the overall quality of the result.

5. Supporting Bars for Stability

A lesser-known aspect among many artists is the inclusion of strengthening bars in some needles, which adds stability to the needle movement. This mechanical feature can achieve similar stabilization effects as those obtained with a flat cartridge top or needle bending.

These are small metal bars inside the cartridge's channel, where the needle oscillates back and forth. Their function is to support the needle, preventing it from bending. This feature becomes particularly crucial when artists engage in precision work and opt to use very thin needles, sometimes even with diameters smaller than 0.25 mm. Without such support, these fine needles are prone to bending, potentially leading to uneven pixelation in the work.

Paying attention to marketing

Manufacturers who incorporate these supporting bars often highlight them as a key feature and use it as a selling point. For an artist aiming to reach a professional level, understanding and recognizing the presence of these supporting bars in needles is vital. Many hairstrokes experts prefer using needles equipped with these bars for the added stability and precision they offer, especially when working with ultra-fine needles that require extra support to maintain their integrity during detailed work.

6. Needle Diameter and Skin Damage

A common misconception among starting artists is the belief that needles with smaller diameters cause less skin damage. While this assumption seems intuitive when considering the potential traumatization effects of different needles on the skin, a more in-depth practical analysis often leads to the opposite conclusion.

The primary goal of the pigmentation procedure is to deposit sufficient pigment into the skin while minimizing damage. On a per-stroke basis (each up-and-down movement during a single turn of the stroke wheel), a needle with a smaller diameter causes less damage to the collagen network within the dermis, particularly the papillary dermis where pigmentation is targeted. However, the amount of pigment that enters the skin through the needle's entry point is often significantly less with finer needles.

The effectiveness of pigment implantation about needle diameter should not be assessed based on a single variable. It's crucial to adopt a multi-variable analysis. Several factors play a role in achieving effective implantation with reasonable damage, including the colorant consistency in the pigment (as opposed to additives like the “liquid carrier” or the “cosmetic” portion), pigment consistency (how liquid or dense it is), and the density of the skin, particularly the upper layer of the epidermis.

Small needle diameter can result in larger overall damage

With smaller-diameter needles, artists often need to make a considerably higher number of passes to achieve the desired effect, such as making hairstroke lines sufficiently visible. This increased frequency of passes can lead to greater overall damage, as it's the only way to attain satisfactory results with finer needles.

Therefore, the key takeaway is that needle diameter is just one of many factors in a holistic, multi-variable approach to implantation effectiveness. One should not reflexively conclude that a smaller diameter equates to less overall skin damage. It's essential to consider all the variables involved to decide on the most appropriate needle for a given procedure.

7. Skin Thickness and Penetrability

Many starting artists often draw two conclusions about skin thickness that lack scientific backing. Firstly, they assume that thicker skin is harder to penetrate, and secondly, they believe this is due to a "thicker epidermis." However, from a dermatological perspective, this is not always the case. In some body areas with "thick skin," the epidermis can be proportionally thicker than the dermis in "thin skin" areas.

While it may be true that skin with a denser stratum corneum (the uppermost layer of the epidermis) can be more challenging to penetrate with a flexible, smaller-diameter needle, this is due to the density of the stratum corneum, not necessarily the overall thickness of the epidermis or dermis.

The stratum corneum presents a significant barrier to needle penetration due to its high concentration of keratin in the keratinocytes. This protein imparts resilience and strength, making the layer particularly resistant to physical intrusions. In contrast, the underlying papillary dermis, with its looser connective tissue matrix, offers less resistance to penetration than the keratin-rich stratum corneum.

Therefore, the primary resistance to needle penetration in semi-permanent makeup procedures is typically encountered at the stratum corneum level. The tissue composition difference between the stratum corneum and papillary dermis significantly influences needle penetration ease.

The Source of True Resistance

The thickness of the dermis does not linearly correlate with the stratum corneum's resistance. Factors contributing to the stratum corneum's thickness and density in the facial area and specifically the brows include:

Age and Hormonal Changes. These can alter the skin's turnover rate and texture, impacting the stratum corneum.
Genetics. Genetic predispositions determine skin characteristics, including stratum corneum thickness.
Environmental Exposure. Sun exposure can thicken the stratum corneum as a protective mechanism, while harsh weather can alter its thickness.
Hydration Levels. Dehydration can lead to a denser and more brittle stratum corneum.
Skin Care Practices. Using moisturizers, exfoliants, and other products can influence skin cell turnover and the stratum corneum's thickness.
Health and Nutrition. Overall health impacts skin health and the stratum corneum's characteristics, including hydration and vitamin intake.
Occupational Factors. Manual labor can lead to stratum corneum thickening due to repeated friction or pressure.

Skin Conditions Influencing Resistance

Calluses and Corns. These thickened areas can make needle penetration difficult.
Psoriasis. This condition can form thick, scaly plaques impeding needle entry.
Eczema. Certain types can lead to a thickened stratum corneum.
Ichthyosis. Characterized by dry, thickened, scaly skin.
Actinic Keratosis. Rough, scaly patches from sun exposure can be thicker and harder.
Lichen Planus. Causes thick, scaly patches on the skin.
Chronic Sun Exposure. This can lead to the outer skin layer thickening.
Diabetes. Alters skin texture and thickness.

Each factor contributes to stratum corneum thickness and density variability, influencing how easily a pigmentation needle penetrates the skin. The resistance of the stratum corneum is a complex interplay of various biological, environmental, and lifestyle factors, not solely dependent on epidermis or dermis thickness.

8. Speed vs. Needle Penetration

A common misconception among artists is that simply increasing the speed of needle movement will improve its penetrability into the skin. However, as explored in this article, the primary resistance to penetration is offered by the uppermost layer of the epidermis, the stratum corneum, rather than factors often considered by artists.

Actual Function of Penetrability

Increasing the machine's speed does not necessarily translate to a more effective "punch" with each stroke. Instead, the penetrability power of the needle is largely a function of the machine's stroke height. If the total amplitude of the stroke wheel is greater (for example, 3.5 mm compared to 2.5 mm), the distance covered by the needle's movement is greater, thus providing more force upon impact with the skin.

However, this characteristic is not a property of the needle cartridge but of the machine's stroke wheel. This is why some machine manufacturers offer the option to change the stroke wheel manually. Most PMU machines include options for two types of stroke wheels: a short stroke (often around 2.0-2.5 mm) and a long stroke (often over 3.0 mm).

Therefore, assuming that increasing the machine's speed will enhance needle penetrability is a mistake. In fact, the opposite can be true. With increased needle speed, the artist may also need to move their hand faster, leading to poorer penetrability and potentially causing more unnecessary damage to the skin, especially if the needle "rips" the skin at some points.

Artists must understand that needle penetrability is influenced by multiple factors, including the machine's stroke height and how they handle the equipment during the procedure. Considering the complex interplay of these variables, reflective judgments about machine speed affecting penetrability should be made with caution.

9. The Myth of the “Correct Speed”

A widespread misconception in semi-permanent makeup is that there is an "ideal" speed setting for different skin types or techniques, such as powder brows or hairstrokes. This belief is inherently flawed on several levels.

The first significant reason is that different machines have varying power units, meaning that speed settings are only directly comparable within the same power unit or machine. If the machine has a built-in wireless power unit, its speed settings can be compared, but this comparison is just one aspect of a broader analysis. Such analyses should always be multi-variable and never rely solely on speed settings to determine the appropriate speed for different procedures.

Another critical factor is the interplay between hand movement and machine speed. The success of achieving even pigmentation relies heavily on synchronizing these two elements. If there is a discrepancy between the hand movement speed and the machine speed, the results are likely to be sub-optimal, regardless of whether the same power unit speed setting could yield excellent results with another artist. In other words, the effectiveness of a specific speed setting is contingent upon the artist's ability to match their hand movement speed with the machine's operational speed.

Therefore, it's essential to understand that all artists and procedures have no universally "correct" speed setting. Each artist must find a balance between machine speed and hand movement to achieve optimal results, considering the specific characteristics of the machine and the technique being used.

10. Conclusions

In the realm of semi-permanent pigmentation procedures such as powder brows and hairstrokes, an artist must consider more than just the basic markers of needle cartridges, like needle count, formation, diameter, and taper height.

Key Considerations:

Cartridge Tip. A flat tip generally makes the needle more stable. Conversely, a sloped tip results in the needle being “flexible” when whipped in one direction and “harder” or more stable when whipped in the opposite direction.
Needle Bending, Many seasoned artists bend the needle within the cartridge to minimize vibration, which is generally preferred for creating precise lines in hairstrokes technique.
Supporting Bars. Advanced needle cartridges often feature built-in supporting bars within the channel where the needle moves. These bars provide greater stability for precision work, especially when using needles with smaller diameters.
Needle Diameter and Skin Damage. Contrary to intuition, very thin needles may cause less damage per individual stroke but often require more passes for sufficient pigment implantation, potentially leading to greater overall skin damage.
Skin Thickness and Needle Penetrability. It is not scientifically valid to assume that thicker skin is harder to penetrate or that a thicker dermis correlates with a thicker epidermis. The main challenge in penetration is the density of the epidermis' uppermost layer (stratum corneum). Factors influencing its density include individual client characteristics (age, genetics, health) and various skin conditions.
Machine Speed and Needle Penetrability. Increasing machine speed does not necessarily improve needle penetrability and can lead to faster, sometimes less precise, hand movements, which actually hinder effective penetration.
Myth of the “Correct Speed”. Be cautious when evaluating needle speed based on the display digits of the pigmentation machine's power unit, as different units can have varied correlations between displayed digits and actual needle movement. The true effectiveness depends on synchronizing needle movement with hand movement; speed analysis alone is not productive without this alignment.

This comprehensive understanding of needle cartridges is essential for achieving optimal results in semi-permanent pigmentation procedures. Artists must consider these multifaceted aspects to ensure precision, minimize skin trauma, and tailor their approach to each client's unique skin properties.