Is Perpetual Retouching Cycle achievable with Hairstrokes?

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1. Background

In the realm of semi-permanent makeup, a critical aspect of eyebrow pigmentation is the need for repeated retouching. This article analyzes this element through the lens of the hairstrokes technique, comparing it to the results achieved with microblading and powder brows techniques. Our objective is to present a balanced perspective on the feasibility of perpetual retouching using the hairstrokes technique and highlight the key factors influencing its success.

For this article, we gathered data from interviews with 76 microblading and pigmentation artists who are skilled in multiple pigmentation techniques, including powder brows. These interviews spanned four years, from 2018 to 2022. Among the participating artists, 56 were from the EU, 12 from the UK, and eight from the US. We observed no significant differences in their experiences based on their location. Conclusions that garnered considerable agreement among the artists were further reviewed by two dermatologists and a cellular biology specialist.

Following the research, we conducted a series of 40 practical tests from 2021 to 2023. These tests aimed to understand how the patterns of the hairstrokes technique affect pigment retention over multiple retouching cycles. We have included observations from these practical tests in our article.

2. Context and anatomical criteria

Depth of implantation

Regarding microblading, powder brow pigmentation, and hairstrokes technique, a claim can be made that there is no difference regarding the implantation depth. In all three cases, the skin layer where implantation is targeted is the papillary dermis - the upper layer of the dermis.

Myth of targeting basal membrane

Microblading artists often claim that the technique targets the basal membrane between the dermis and epidermis. However, from a scientific standpoint, this is incorrect. The basal membrane is a delicate structure, only 10-50 nanometers (0.01-0.05 micrometers) thick, which makes targeting it for pigment deposits implausible.

Considering the size of pigment particles used in microblading, which range from 100-500 nanometers and can form aggregates up to 1 micrometer due to van der Waals forces, it's clear that these particles are too large to be confined to the basal membrane. In reality, microblading involves penetrating through the epidermis and basal membrane, depositing pigments into the upper layers of the dermis, particularly the papillary dermis.

This penetration depth is crucial for the pigment's durability and visibility. As the epidermis constantly renews itself, the pigment needs to be in the dermis to remain visible over time. This fact confirms that the pigments are deposited deeper than the basal membrane, aligning with the pigments' physical properties and the skin's biological structure.

3. The Myth of Hitting the “Sweet Spot”

An additional myth in pigmentation techniques, including microblading, powder brows, and Hairstrokes, revolves around targeting the so-called “sweet spot” in the upper layer of the dermis, known as the papillary dermis. Understanding this concept requires a grasp of the dermatological, physical, and biological constraints. Specifically, the journey to this “sweet spot” is remarkably brief due to the minimal thickness of both the epidermis and dermis.

Dermis Thickness in the Brow Area

The thickness of the dermis varies based on factors such as body region, age, gender, ethnicity, and overall health. Though there are no universally standardized measurements in the brow area, the dermis can be particularly thick. At the start of the brow, it can exceed 1 mm (1000 micrometers or 1 million nanometers). Factors like skin type and ethnic background can alter this thickness, potentially ranging from 1000-2000 micrometers (1-2 mm). As we move towards the brow tail, the thickness decreases significantly.

However, detailed measurements for the brow area specifically are rare in dermatological literature, which typically focuses on broader regions like the face. For our analysis, we can consider the thicker and healthier version of the dermis, which still supports our conclusions.

Epidermis Thickness in the Brow Area

In contrast, the epidermis in the brow area shows less variation in thickness. Typically, it measures between 50-100 micrometers (0.05-0.1 mm). This range is consistent with established dermatological knowledge. The epidermis is considerably thinner than the dermis and shows less variation across different body parts. The facial epidermis, including the brow area, is generally thinner than in areas like the palms or soles.

Conclusions about the “Sweet Spot”

Theoretically, implanting pigment into the papillary dermis, or the “sweet spot,” is not flawed and can be dermatologically sound. However, in practice, achieving this precision is challenging. The artist must insert the needle or blade into the skin with a precision depth of approximately 0.2-0.5 millimeters, varying at different brow parts.

Theoretical Analysis of Implantation into the “Sweet Spot”

The "sweet spot" theory would be more credible if human senses could detect needle penetration with such accuracy. The human eye can discern distances as small as 0.1 mm (100 micrometers). However, it is unrealistic to expect that one could visually gauge the depth of needle entry. Since the needle can penetrate the skin multiple times per second, relying on visual cues is impractical. The remaining senses, like hearing the needle prick or feeling the vibration, are also limited. At best, one might sense the needle piercing the epidermis, but distinguishing between the depths of the papillary and reticular dermis is beyond our sensory capabilities. In practice, pigment deposition often occurs in both layers.

Additionally, for many pigmentation artists, both seasoned and beginners, it's often likely that they reach the hypodermis during procedures. This is because precisely controlling the depth of pigment implantation is extremely challenging. The skin's varying thickness and the limitations of human sensory perception make this precision difficult. Therefore, the main concern is not exactly which skin layer receives the pigment but how much pigment is distributed across each layer.

4. Retention of pigment particles

To evaluate the likelihood of an efficient perpetual retouching cycle of brows made with the hair strokes technique, we should first explore how pigment colorant particles remain in the skin after implantation. In a simplified way, it can be said that some of the pigment gets removed from the skin immediately, and some remains in the skin. Here are the ways the pigment gets removed.

Migration or Removal of Particles

Bloodstream Entry. It's rare, but some small pigment particles might enter the bloodstream.

Phagocytosis. More commonly, macrophages engulf pigment particles and transport them to the lymphatic system. Contrary to popular belief, larger particles (up to 10 micrometers) are more likely to be phagocytosed than smaller ones (less than 500 nanometers). The efficiency of phagocytosis also depends on the particle's chemistry and interaction with macrophage surface receptors.
Larger Particles. Particles up to 10 micrometers can be phagocytosed. Larger particles may require multiple macrophages or other mechanisms like “frustrated phagocytosis” for engulfment.

Next, let us see how the pigment remains in the skin, more precisely in the dermis.

Particles Remaining in the Dermis

Macrophage Status Transformation. After engulfing pigment particles, some macrophages become dormant, slowly releasing the pigment over time.
Macrophage Operation and Pigment Processing. Macrophages may contain chemically inert particles, like elemental carbon, without processing them, forming granulomas to isolate these particles.
Fading of the Pigment. The gradual release and fading of pigment particles depend on their size, chemical nature, and immune response. Macrophages may degrade or excrete the pigment over time.

Fibroblast Encapsulation and ECM Retention

Fibroblast Encapsulation. Aggregated pigment particles can be trapped within the fibroblast network, ensuring longer retention.
Retention in Extracellular Matrix (ECM). Aggregated particles remain in the ECM, with larger aggregates and suitable chemical interactions leading to prolonged retention.

Deeper Penetration and Particle Breakdown

Deeper implantation can cause blurred lines, with the pigment's chemical composition affecting its retention.

Over time, forces between particles may weaken, especially under UV light, chemicals, enzymes, or laser treatments. However, covalent bonds within the particles themselves are typically stable.

Thus, the retention and visibility of pigmented colorants in pigmentation are influenced by several factors, including implantation depth, particle size, aggregation, chemical properties, and skin response. The fate of each pigment particle is a complex interplay of these factors, resulting in highly individualized outcomes.

5. Perpetual Retouching Cycle (PRC)

While the idea of maintaining microblading indefinitely through consistent retouching is theoretically possible, it proves to be practically challenging. Each retouching cycle aims to refresh the appearance, relying on the fading or removal of the previous pigment over time. When we evaluate the perpetual retouching possibility, then we can define two desired outcomes: brows without lines that remind natural brow hair, such as many versions of the powder brows technique, and brows where the desired outcome contains lines - such as Hairstrokes and Microblading.

Theoretical Perpetual Retouching

For perpetual retouching to be theoretically viable, conditions must be met: pigments should be efficiently removed by macrophages before the next retouch; the collagen network should recover adequately; and different colorants should decompose at a similar rate to prevent typical customers from requiring additional retouches “too soon.” However, the practical realization of these conditions is highly challenging.

6. The Practical Reality

Chemical Problems

In cases where substances that remain in the skin longer, such as Carbon Black (CI 77 266) is used, it tends to remain in the skin, leading to an accumulation of black colorant particles over time. This saturation eventually limits the ability for further pigment implantation in the same area.

Biological Problems

Effective re-implantation of the pigment becomes physically challenging if the retouching cycle is shorter than the time needed for the collagen network to recover. This leads to micro scarring and blurring of lines. The ideal cycle duration varies based on factors like client age, lifestyle, and the artist's technique. Generally, the cycle should not be shorter than 6-12 months to allow for adequate skin recovery.

Psychological Problems

Client expectations play a significant role. Often, clients may desire more frequent retouches to maintain crisp lines. However, this can paradoxically lead to less crisp and more blurred lines over time, as continuous implantation in the same location leads to oversaturation and a collagen network too dense to accept new pigment effectively.

Experience shows the difficulty in meeting these conditions, even for skilled artists and with optimal pigments. Chemical, biological, and psychological factors contribute to deviating from the ideal over time.

An ideal case

Chemical aspects. When we explore the possible ideal version of microblading or hairstrokes technique, it can be said that the chemical problem can be eased to a maximal degree with high-quality pigments that facilitate the best possibilities for removal from the skin. Practical empirical experience has demonstrated that mineral pigments are removed by the body practically entirely within the time-frame of around 12 months.

Biological aspects regarding removal. When we suppose that the pigment quality and elimination of colorant composites are simultaneous and there is no ferratine-caused oxidation level change that would turn brows reddish, then it is plausible that the chemical problems can be mitigated to such a degree that those would not prevent the perpetuity of retouching cycles. Thus, biological interactions between inorganic oxides and skin proteins, which could lead to oxidation and color changes, can be minimized with salinization.

Interrelation of Biological and Psychological Factors

When considering both practical and theoretical perspectives, it becomes clear that the biological and psychological factors impacting perpetual retouching cycles are closely interconnected. Specifically, the damage to the collagen network during retouching can be so extensive that there is insufficient space for new colorant particles. This situation and potentially unfavorable skin conditions like altered pH levels result in blurring and unclear lines. This observation is strongly supported by empirical evidence from experiments conducted between 2021 and 2023.

This blurring effect often leads clients to seek solutions from their artists. However, the most common response - additional retouching - paradoxically exacerbates the issue over time. Each subsequent retouching session tends to decrease the client's satisfaction period, eventually reaching a point where it is economically unreasonable to continue. Therefore, we see that biological limitations, such as damage to the collagen network, cause immediate issues and lead to further deterioration, amplifying the initial problems.

Therefore, the following can be concluded. Perpetual microblading retouching is impossible without lines blurring and undesirable color changes. The complexity of the issue requires a multidisciplinary approach. While improvements in technique and materials can extend the duration between cycles, a complete restart with the same or a new technique eventually becomes necessary. This usually requires the removal of as much pigment as possible first.

7. Perpetual retouching cycles with Hairstrokes

The possibility of perpetual retouching cycles with Hairstrokes

When we assume that any negative aspects of the chemical factors are mitigated to a degree, that it becomes no longer a relevant obstacle to the perpetual retouching cycles, then the only practical issue remaining is the dual problem of biological damage to the collagen network and the predictable, typical sufficient customer satisfaction with the healed result to “wait” for the next retouching that can take place when the collagen network is sufficiently healed.

Differences between punctuated wound and linear wound

Microblading involves using a blade with sharp needles to cut the skin. This technique creates a linear wound that penetrates the epidermis and reaches the upper part of the dermis.

Microblading: Cutting the Skin

The cut made by microblading is more extensive in length compared to the puncture of a machine needle. Linear wounds generally have a greater surface area exposed, which can potentially lead to more significant disruption of the collagen network. This larger wound size can slow the healing process because a more extensive area must regenerate.

The linear incision disturbs more collagen fibers. The healing process involves fibroblasts laying down new collagen to repair the wound. However, this new collagen can be more disorganized and denser than the original network, leading to scar tissue formation.

The depth of the blade’s penetration can vary more than the machine needle due to manual application. Inconsistency in depth increases the likelihood of uneven healing and scarring.

Machine Pigmentation: Piercing the Skin

Machine pigmentation uses a needle, typically 0.25-0.35 mm in diameter, rapidly moving up and down to pierce the skin, depositing pigment at a similar depth as microblading.

The puncture wounds made by machine needles are smaller in diameter and heal more quickly. Smaller wounds typically cause less disruption to the collagen network and close faster due to the reduced area that needs to regenerate.

Each puncture is more localized, causing less widespread damage to collagen fibers. The healing process is more likely to restore the original structure of the collagen network, reducing the chance of scar tissue formation.

Machine needles offer more consistent depth control due to their mechanized nature. Consistent depth contributes to uniform healing and reduces the risk of scarring.

Based on the mechanics of wound creation and healing dynamics, it can be argued that microblading is more likely to cause significant damage to the collagen network, slower healing, and a higher likelihood of micro-scarring. This is primarily due to the larger, more extensive linear wounds created by the blade, which disrupt more collagen fibers than the smaller, more localized puncture wounds made by machine needles. The healing of linear wounds is typically more complex, and the new collagen deposited during the healing process can be denser and more disorganized, leading to scar formation. In contrast, machine pigmentation, with its smaller and more consistent wounds, is less disruptive to the collagen network and has a faster healing process, reducing the likelihood of scarring.

8. Theory and practice

Combining dermatological facts with empirical evidence

Combining dermatological facts with empirical evidence from 2021-2023, we gain significant support for the theory that different techniques cause varying degrees of damage and healing in the collagen network and contribute differently to micro-scarring.

Practical Conclusions

However, this evidence does not definitively prove that a perpetual retouching cycle is achievable with the Hairstrokes technique under all circumstances. Another crucial observation from a practical perspective must be considered.

Different Levels of Hairstrokes

Analyzing the Hairstrokes technique, which creates hair-like lines with a machine, requires a two-tiered approach. First, the retention and definition of each stroke, consisting of a series of punctuated “holes” for pigment implantation, should be assessed. Second, the overall pattern and healed result must be analyzed.

Empirical Evidence and Technique Effectiveness

Empirical evidence suggests that while Hairstrokes optimize conditions for a perpetual retouching cycle, numerous factors like skin chemistry, UV light exposure, minimal pigment migration, and procedural imperfections make it challenging to achieve perpetual retouch cycles effectively at the level of a single stroke. However, perpetual retouching becomes more feasible when the pattern is designed to combine pixelation and strokes with varying lengths (longer than natural brow hair for better stability and retention) and intensity.

Simplified Summary

In simpler terms, with the hairstroke technique, it's possible to achieve perpetual retouching for an entire eyebrow pattern that resembles natural brows rather than at the level of individual strokes. Considering all factors, the empirical evidence shows high customer satisfaction with this approach, leading to an increasing demand for Hairstrokes among well-informed customers. This technique's overall effectiveness and appeal stem from its ability to create a lasting, natural-looking brow pattern that withstands the test of time, balancing biological limitations with the desired aesthetic outcome.

9. Conclusions

This article comprehensively examines the feasibility of achieving a perpetual retouching cycle (PRC) with the Hairstrokes technique in semi-permanent makeup.

It is established that in Microblading, Powder brows, and Hairstrokes, the papillary dermis is the targeted skin layer for pigment implantation. This depth ensures the durability and visibility of the pigment as the epidermis renews itself constantly.

Thus, many common myths can be debunked, such as targeting the basal membrane in microblading, which is scientifically implausible due to its delicate structure. Our approach also challenges the notion of hitting the "sweet spot" in the dermis, highlighting the impracticality of achieving such precision due to the variability in skin thickness and the limitations of human sensory perception.

Next, we examine the biological processes governing the retention and removal of pigment particles. This analysis explains how macrophages are crucial in either transporting pigment particles to the lymphatic system or becoming dormant and gradually releasing the pigment. The encapsulation of pigments within the fibroblast network and the extracellular matrix also contributes to their retention. Next, we approach the overall issues that are related to perpetual retouching.

Challenges of Perpetual Retouching

While the theory of perpetual retouching is theoretically plausible, the article underscores the practical challenges. These include difficulty ensuring consistent removal of pigment particles, the need for the collagen network to recover adequately between retouching cycles, and managing client expectations.

Comparing microblading and machine pigmentation, we can conclude that microblading is more likely to cause significant damage to the collagen network, slower healing, and a higher likelihood of micro-scarring due to creating larger, linear wounds. In contrast, with smaller puncture wounds, machine pigmentation causes less disruption and has a faster healing process.

Possibility of the perpetual retouching cycle with Hairstrokes

Empirical evidence suggests that while achieving a perpetual retouching cycle at the level of individual Hairstrokes is challenging, designing a pattern that combines pixelation and varying stroke lengths can optimize conditions for perpetual retouching. This approach can yield high customer satisfaction and increasing demand for Hairstrokes.

Final conclusionsThe article concludes that while advancements in technique and materials can extend the duration between cycles, a complete restart with the same or a new technique eventually becomes necessary due to the intricate interplay of chemical, biological, and psychological factors. This highlights the necessity of a multidisciplinary approach to address the complexities of achieving perpetual retouching cycles in semi-permanent makeup.

In summary, the article explores the biological, chemical, and practical aspects of semi-permanent makeup techniques, focusing on the Hairstrokes method. It presents a realistic view of the challenges and possibilities in achieving a perpetual retouching cycle, guided by empirical evidence and dermatological facts. Considering all aspects, it can be concluded that a perpetual retouching cycle (PRC) is achievable with the Hairstrokes technique. However, this can be accomplished at the level of the entire eyebrow pattern rather than at the level of individual strokes.