Most Important Pigment Components

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Tops Pricing

2. Organic CI 10,000 - CI 76,999

Organic pigments are categorized based on their origins and are known for their vibrant, rich colors. However, these pigments often come with lower durability and stability. They're more likely to migrate with smaller particle sizes, posing challenges for even skin distribution. These pigments also come with the downside of being more prone to skin sensitization and UV sensitivity. When using organic pigments, it's advised to use a lighter technique featuring short, powdery strokes. These pigments' Color Index (CI) typically ranges between 10,000 and 76,999.

Due to these complexities, organic pigments are best used by experienced artists who can master the art of delicate, layered work. Any mistakes, such as overly bold contours, could become permanent. These pigments are most suitable for individuals with oily or thick skin but should be applied with care.

3. Inorganic CI 77,000 - CI 77,999

In stark contrast, inorganic pigments are known for their stability and longevity. These pigments have a more muted color palette and larger particle sizes, which minimizes the risks of migration and blowout. Furthermore, they're less likely to cause skin sensitization and are UV-resistant. Generally, their CI range falls between 77,000 and 77,999. Effective application of inorganic pigments requires techniques that involve layering and tight distribution. Due to their forgiving nature, these pigments are often recommended for artists who are just starting out.

Designed specifically for permanent makeup (PMU), inorganic pigments tend to be subtler and may necessitate multiple layers to achieve the desired outcome. Notably, some of the pigment might peel away as the skin heals. These pigments work well for various skin types, including normal, combination, dry, and mature skin. They are the go-to choice for clients aiming for a more natural look.

The market is currently dominated by hybrid pigments, which blend organic and inorganic elements.

4. CI 77266 - Carbon Black

An attractive woman on the left, and a black substance with drops and powder on the right.

CI 77266, or Carbon Black, is a dark pigment with strong covering power. Despite being inorganic, it behaves like an organic pigment due to its tiny particle size. It's darker than black iron oxide but can turn greyish over time.

Particle size in CI 77266 varies by production method and impacts its properties. Smaller particles offer intense color but are harder to disperse, while larger ones are easier to spread but offer less coverage.

Carbon Black is long-lasting and resists fading. When mixed with Titanium Dioxide White, it tends to outlast other pigments in the skin but can leave a greyish or ashy residue.

Three methods produce CI 77266: Channeling, Furnacing, and Thermal processing.

Channeling uses natural gas, resulting in a product called channel black. It has the smallest particle size (90-100 nanometers) and is the darkest, being almost opaque and bluish. It's acidic and tends to resist clustering. Furnacing uses petroleum-based oils and results in particles sized 200-300 nanometers. It has a greenish, semi-opaque color. The process is complex but efficient, also producing gases that can be reused.

Thermal processing uses ethylene gas and yields the largest particles, up to 500 nanometers. It has a brownish color and is the least opaque. Unlike others, it's almost entirely inorganic.

Channel Black contains 19% organic and 81% inorganic components. Furnace Black is 55% organic and 45% inorganic. Thermal Black is 99% inorganic (because elemental Carbon is considered inorganic).

Thermal Black is the safest for powder brows due to its large particle size. It gives a brownish undertone and fades into an anthracite shade over time.

Carbon Black isn't purely organic or inorganic; it varies based on production methods. Each type has unique properties that influence its suitability for various applications.

5. CI 77 499 - Black Iron Oxide

Attractive woman on the left and powder-like substances of different brown and black tones on the right with multiple particle sizes in small piles.

Black Iron Oxide is identified in the Color Index by the code CI 77499 and is an inorganic, hydrophobic pigment. Hydrophobic means that the substance repels water, making it less likely to blend with water-based solutions. Simply put, it's water-repellent and not sourced from organic materials. It often falls under the iron oxide category in its second oxidation stage. The chemical formula for Black Iron Oxide is Fe3O4, which uniquely contains iron in both the +2 and +3 oxidation states.

In terms of color, Black Iron Oxide displays a rich, warm hue. It's a lighter color than Carbon Black and tends to shift toward warmer tones over time. This difference in color intensity between Black Iron Oxide and Carbon Black is mainly due to their particle sizes. To make it easy to understand, large particles like Black Iron Oxide appear lighter, while smaller particles like Carbon Black look darker.

Interestingly, Black Iron Oxide is synthesized in labs to maintain purity and avoid heavy metal contamination, even though its formula, Fe3O4, occurs naturally in iron ore. So, despite being a mineral that could technically be extracted from the earth, it is typically lab-produced today.

According to the Environmental Working Group's (EWG) Skin Deep database, Black Iron Oxide has a 'fair' hazard score, ranging between 2-4, making it generally accepted in cosmetology.

Here's a curious fact: Black Iron Oxide, or Fe3O4, has magnetic properties. There have been surprising instances where a magnet would stick to a pigment bottle containing it. But don't worry; this doesn't imply the presence of harmful heavy metals. The magnetic nature of Fe3O4 could potentially impact Magnetic Resonance Imaging (MRI), but this would only happen in large quantities—much more than what's used in treatments like Powder Brows or Microblading.

Historically, Black Iron Oxide was sourced from iron ore, which could have contained traces of other metals depending on the origin. However, modern lab synthesis has virtually eliminated such concerns. Any claim that today's synthesized form contains heavy metals is generally considered false by experts.

Lastly, Black Iron Oxide pigments often contain glycerine. Glycerine serves dual roles: as a binder, it loosely holds the pigment particles together, and as a solvent, it affects the overall consistency of the pigment. This makes it behave differently than pigments that use other binders like shellac.

6. CI 77891 - Titanium Dioxide White

A pile of white substance on the left and an attractive woman's face on the right.

Titanium Dioxide White, known as CI 77891 or TiO2, is an inorganic pigment frequently used in cosmetology, especially in lip and eyebrow pigments. One of its key roles is to enhance the reflectivity of other colors in a pigment blend. This action helps to stabilize the color, preventing it from shifting into unwanted shades. When Titanium Dioxide is added to a pigment mix, the resulting color tends to be more opaque and less vibrant, unlike pigments without which appear more transparent and translucent.

An important aspect of CI 77891 is its behavior in pigment metabolism within the skin. For example, if a pigment containing Titanium Dioxide White is mixed with water and left alone, the Titanium Dioxide particles will separate and settle at the bottom. This behavior indicates that the compound tends to segregate from the rest of the mixture, which could impact how it interacts with skin tissues over time.

Titanium Dioxide White is impressive in its opacity and covering capability. It lightens pigment colors and provides excellent coverage. This makes it especially useful in color correctors. Moreover, it has a high lightfastness rating, meaning it remains stable when exposed to light. This stability allows it to outlast many other pigments, leaving behind a residual color ranging from ashy or grey to nude-yellow.

It's worth noting that when Titanium Dioxide White is mixed with organic-based pigments—those primarily made with organic ingredients—the resulting color tends to be long-lasting but may turn duller and cooler as time passes. This is particularly relevant for brow pigments, which may need a warm color boost—often achieved by using orange or yellow-based pigments—to maintain their original warmth and vibrancy. Failing to add such a warm undertone can result in a cooler, more muted look as other pigments like red and yellow fade away. One common mistake is to use a dark, cool pigment without considering this factor, which can exacerbate the coolness in the brows over time.

7. Additional inorganic pigments

CI 77288 and CI 77289 Chromium Oxides

Chromium Oxides, denoted by their CI codes 77288 and 77289, are inorganic pigments commonly used in cosmetics for their green hues. CI 77288 is called Chromium Oxide Greens, while CI 77289 is usually called Hydrated Chromium Oxide Green. Both are considered safe for cosmetic use according to EU and FDA guidelines. These highly stable pigments offer good heat and light resistance, making them ideal for rather stable color in Powder Brows and other cosmetic applications. While Chromium Oxides can be found naturally in minerals, the cosmetic-grade versions are usually synthesized in labs to ensure purity and consistent color quality.

CI 77491 Red Iron Oxides

Red Iron Oxide, or CI 77491 or Fe2O3, is used for its vibrant red color. It's considered safe by EU standards, and its hazard score, according to EWG's Skin Deep Database, is 1-2. According to many artists, Red Iron Oxide is stable and long-lasting on the skin, making it a reliable choice.

CI 77492 Yellow Iron Oxides

Yellow iron oxide is represented by the chemical formula FeO(OH) or FeO(OH)·nH2O. Unlike its red counterpart, which has the formula Fe2O3, yellow iron oxide has different chemical characteristics and crystal structures. Both forms are considered safe according to EU standards and have a low hazard score on the EWG's Skin Deep Database. Iron oxides are stable in the skin, which makes them a popular choice for microblading pigments. While they can be found naturally in forms like ochre, most iron oxides used today are synthesized in labs for greater purity and consistency.

CI 77007 Sodium Aluminosilicate Violet or Ultramarine Blue

Ultramarine Blue, also known by its CI code 77007, is a complex inorganic pigment composed primarily of sodium, aluminum, silicon, and oxygen. This pigment is widely used in cosmetics, including microblading pigments, because of its stability and vibrant blue hue. It is considered safe for cosmetics in the European Union and the United States. Ultramarine Blue is also popular because it is non-toxic and does not easily break down, ensuring that the pigment remains stable over time. While it can be found in some natural sources like the mineral lapis lazuli, the ultramarine blue used in cosmetics is typically synthesized to ensure its purity and consistency.

8. Additional organic pigments

CI 11783 Yellow Pigment Yellow 120

Organic pigment is primarily used for its yellow color in cosmetics. It is widely considered safe in accordance with EU and FDA regulations. The pigment is known for its stable color and is often synthesized for better purity and consistency.

CI 12475 or 12475:1 Red Pigment Red 170

An organic pigment commonly referred to as Red 170. It's used in cosmetics for its vibrant red shade and is deemed safe under EU and FDA standards. Strong colorfastness, lab-synthesized.

CI 19140:1 FD&C Yellow 5

A synthetic organic dye. The FDA has approved it to be widely used in cosmetics and food, and it complies with EU safety standards. It's known for its bright yellow color and stability.

CI 561170 ORANGE 73

An organic pigment often used for its orange hue in cosmetics. Considered safe for use under current EU and FDA regulations and offers good stability and color retention.

CI 11767 Yellow Pigment 97

An organic yellow pigment commonly used in cosmetics. It is recognized as safe according to EU and FDA guidelines. Valued for its stable yellow color.

CI 56110 - Red Pigment Red 254

An organic red pigment. It's often used in cosmetics for its deep red hue and is considered safe, known for its durability and bright, stable color.

CI 561300 - Red Pigment Red 264

The organic pigment used for its red shade in cosmetics is safe and stale.

CI 56298 - Yellow Pigment Yellow 139

The organic pigment used for its yellow shade in cosmetics is safe and stable.

CI 56300 Yellow Pigment Yellow 138

Typically synthesized in labs for consistent quality.

CI 200310 - Yellow Pigment 155CI 200310

Known as Yellow Pigment 155, it is an organic pigment used in cosmetics for its yellow hue. According to EU and FDA standards, it is safe for use and offers excellent color stability."

9. The "Carrier"

Pigment bottle on the left, with arrows labeled Colorant and Carrier containing Solvents, Binders, and Fillers.

Pigment formula = Colorant + Carrier

The colorant provides the actual color that gets deposited into the skin. Additives like solvents, binders, and fillers work together to stabilize the formula, help in the application process, and influence the pigment's longevity. These additives, when combined with the colorant, make up the complete pigment formula that comes in the bottle.

The "Carrier" is known as "Paint Base," or "Medium" as Part of the Pigment. Let us examine that more specifically. When discussing the pigment as the complete mixture found in the bottle, it's important to differentiate between the colorant we've examined in the previous sections and what is commonly called its "carrier." The carrier typically includes various components such as solvents, binders, and other additives. Collectively, these substances serve specific functions within the pigment mixture. These elements serve to facilitate the application of the pigment, influence its staying power, and contribute to its overall behavior in the skin. They work in tandem with the colorant to create the final pigment mixture that is applied during the procedure.

10. Solvents as dispersants

These are substances that help disperse the pigment particles. Common solvents include water, alcohol, and glycerine. However, it's worth noting that they often function more as dispersants than as traditional solvents.

The idea of “dispersants”

In the context of pigments, "dispersants" are substances that help evenly distribute pigment particles throughout the liquid carrier. The idea is to prevent the pigment particles from clumping together, ensuring a smooth, consistent color when the pigment is applied. For example, if you're using a pigment bottle in the powder brows service, you'll notice that the color is uniform throughout the liquid. That's the work of dispersants. They help maintain that even color distribution so that each application looks as good as the last one.

Witch-hazel (aka Hamamelis or Hamamelis virginiana)

It is a plant, the leaves of which (and actually also fruit) are used to make a semi-liquid substance that is a gentle and soft cooling agent. It is used in various cosmetic products as a mostly harmless (in case one is not allergic to it, which is rare) semisolid component of large amounts of creams and cooling gels (against rashes, swelling, etc).

Purified water

Pigments often contain some water (H2O). Obviously, this is not ordinary drinking water, instead, it is purified water- which means that it is cleaned of all sorts of contaminants. Still, the chemical formula is H2O, or HOH, to represent its molecular shape more accurately. Water can be purified through osmosis, filtration, and distillation - thus, let us say it is absolutely pure - no smell, no taste.

Alcohols

Now, alcohol as a whole is a totally different kind of substance when it comes to chemistry, and it is quite impossible to tell as a whole whether it is safe because there are so many kinds of different alcohols in the chemical sense. I.e., a class of wine would most probably have a positive effect on your day, whereas a class of methanol would cause some rather interesting reactions in your body that can well end your life due to formaldehyde (or at least make you blind). Regarding pigments, we highly suggest you go into detail and zoom into the exact formula - and it pays off to be very exact; small changes in details may mean another kind of substance with different effects. Here are some alcohols that you might find in pigments (or rather in the liquid carrier of those).

Polyethylene Glycol - (C2nH4n+2On+1) - aka PEG

It is a chemical substance that is usually just used to retain the moisture of the pigment and liquidity. In a chemical sense, one can produce PEG by having ethylene oxide react with water or ethylene glycol. It is used medically in many laxatives as well as in a very large number of cosmetic products. Although, in some rare cases, there has been some allergic reaction to PEG and claims that it affects the liver and kidneys, it is generally safe in pigments. In addition to pigments, it is used in many products that can be (at least partially) digested (i.e., toothpaste). Thus, if a person is allergic to PEG components, it is almost certain that she gets it in much larger quantities from other sources (mostly food). One should not misinterpret propyl ethylene glycol for ethylene glycol, which can be quite toxic and not used in pigment liquid carriers.

Isopropyl alcohol (C3H8O) - aka isopropanol

It is the simplest antiseptic many artists use. Isopropanol functions as a solvent in the process of mixing the pigment substances together. Although, isopropanol is commonly used as an antiseptic and also functions as a solvent in pigments.

11. Binders

These substances help the pigment adhere to the surface where it's applied. Binders in pigments commonly include glycerine, polyethylene glycol (PEG), polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), Isopropyl palmitate (C19H38O2), and natural resins like rosin and shellac, as well as block copolymers such as acrylates.

Glycerine (C3H8O3) - aka glycerol or sugar alcohol

Mostly derived from natural sources, odorless, colorless liquid substance. It has a sweet taste and is also used as a sweetener in the food industry. It moistens the liquid in pigments and does not let some other pigment components evaporate. Glycerine is generally produced from animal sources, soya beans or palm. Different alcohols are used to get glycerol due to the reaction from triglycerides that those substances contain.

Rosin (C15H20O6)

It is a substance that is made from a resin taken from pine trees. It is sometimes produced as a byproduct when making paper and other products trees are used for. Rosin is often used to make several products thicker and more solid - as a glazing agent for several medications or even chewing gum. As well as, rosin substances are used in the role of emulsifiers in soft drinks, such as Gatorade. Regarding pigments, the purpose of rosin is to give the substance a better, more solid, and thicker form. Sometimes, people concerned with their health are very worried about the glycerol ester of rosin, i.e., in soft drinks such as Gatorade. However, once again, as it is with so many other substances, attention should be drawn to the actual quantity of the product.

Shellac

It is a natural resin that is sometimes used as a binder to formulate powder brow pigments. Derived from the secretions of the lac bug, shellac plays a crucial role in helping the pigment adhere to the skin more effectively. Its natural adhesive qualities are ideal for achieving a consistent and long-lasting color in powder brows. Although generally safe for cosmetic use, it's worth noting that shellac is not vegan-friendly, as it's an animal-derived product. Nevertheless, it remains reliable in creating high-quality, durable brow pigments.

Isopropyl palmitate (C19H38O2)

Used similarly to rosin, it is a palm (palm oil) and coconut oil substance. Using isopropyl palmitate in a pigment liquid carrier makes the pigment thicker, unites different substances, and gives the pigment a clearer, shinier, softer, and smoother state. Although some people highly concerned with cosmetic products’ side effects may claim isopropyl palmitate causes acne, blackheads, whiteheads, and clogged pores, it is highly exaggerated when it comes to pigments, according to the opinion of many professionals. In reality, it is just an odorless, colorless, clear substance that helps maintain the pigment's viscosity and does not generally harm the client, except for some rare cases of allergic reaction.

Polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP)

It is another binder commonly used in the formulation of powder brow pigments. It is a stabilizing agent that helps pigments adhere better to the skin, enhancing the longevity and consistency of the brow color. Generally considered safe for cosmetic use, PVP helps ensure that the applied pigment remains uniform, making the powder brows procedure more effective and long-lasting. With its excellent water solubility and adhesive properties, PVP contributes to the overall quality and performance of the brow pigment.

Propylene glycol (C3H8O2)

It is a fine sample of a substance that gets people really scared. Because it is also found in the antifreeze used to cool car engines. As with many other substances used in the cosmetics and food industry - whilst propylene glycol can be produced synthetically as a byproduct that you get from oil refining or natural gas processing, it can also be found in nature, i.e., as a byproduct of simple fermentation. Although in antifreeze, the substance may have a bit of a sweet taste, in pigments, propylene glycol (that is also sometimes called 1,2-propanediol) is a totally odorless, colorless, and tasteless substance. Although in various databases, you may find that it is listed among carcinogens, The FDA has deemed propylene glycol generally safe for consumption in small amounts. In pigments, it is just used to maintain moisture.

13. Conclusions

Substances one should know based on the Color Index (CI). First off, CI 10,000 - CI 76,999 represents organic pigments, while CI 77,000 - CI 77,999 is for inorganic pigments.

Key colorants you should be aware of are Carbon Black (CI 77266), Black Iron Oxide (CI 77499), and Titanium Dioxide White (CI 77891).

Additional colorants to recognize are the following.

Inorganic: Chromium Oxides (CI 77288 and CI 77289), Red Iron Oxides (CI 77491), Yellow Iron Oxides (CI 77492), Sodium Aluminosilicate Violet or Ultramarine Blue (CI 77007).

Organic: Yellow pigment Yellow 120 (CI 11783), Red pigment Red 170 (CI 12475 or 12475:1), FD&C Yellow 5 (CI 19140:1), ORANGE 73 (CI 561170), Yellow pigment 97 (CI 11767), Red pigment Red 254 (CI 56110), Red pigment Red 264 (CI 561300), Yellow pigment Yellow 139 (CI 56298), Yellow pigment Yellow 138 (CI 56300), Yellow pigment 155 (CI 200310).

The rest of the mixture in the bottle, aside from the colorant, is called the "Carrier," "Paint Base," or "Medium." It helps disperse the pigment molecules, keeps them together, and aids in skin insertion. Components in the "Carrier" serve various roles:

Solvents: Examples include Witch-hazel, Purified water, Glycerine (C3H8O3), Polyethylene Glycol, and Isopropyl alcohol (C3H8O), among other alcohols.

Binders: Such as Glycerine, polyethylene glycol (PEG), Isopropyl palmitate (C19H38O2), polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), and natural resins like rosin and shellac.

Fillers and other additives: These can be preservatives, emulsifiers, surfactants, pH adjusters, thickeners, or liquidity adjusters.

Most Important Pigment Components

"Full list of most important components in Powder Brows pigments. Perfect for beginners aiming to excel and informative for pros who want to know more. "

1. Background

2. Organic CI 10,000 - CI 76,999

3. Inorganic CI 77,000 - CI 77,999

4. CI 77266 - Carbon Black