How to read the pigment labels?

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1. Background

Pigment labels offer some valuable information that can guide you, the artist, in making informed decisions. However, the general understanding of these labels is often inadequate. The content of this article draws from interviews with 21 Powder Brows artists. These artists are some of the most successful in their regions. A significant number of them, 16 to be exact, also perform other procedures like lip and eyeliner pigmentation. Most of these artists work in the U.S.; five are based in EU countries, and two are in the UK. Interestingly, geographical location doesn't impact how artists read pigment labels significantly. This is likely because most of the chemical components are universally recognized.

Adopting a Realistic Approach

When interpreting pigment labels, it's essential to have realistic expectations. Most companies find it more profitable to provide minimal information on their labels, adhering to the subsidiary principle, revealing as little as possible but as much as is required. Therefore, the primary focus of these labels is to meet technical specifications, and as an artist, you should not expect to make some great revelations based on those. The chances are slim that you would expose some well-hidden secrets about the maker from the color codes or additives list printed on the label.

2. Technical requirements

Technical requirements in the EU. In the European Union, pigments used for cosmetic applications like Powder Brows are governed by Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 on Cosmetic Products. This regulation requires a comprehensive safety assessment by qualified experts for all pigments before they can be marketed. All components, including colorants, must be listed with their Color Index (CI) numbers, and heavy metals like lead, mercury, and arsenic concentration must be within permissible limits.

Additionally, the EU enforces a strict ban on animal testing for cosmetic products. The traceability of each product batch is essential to facilitate recalls or address safety concerns. Manufacturers and importers must also comply with the REACH (Registration, Evaluation, Authorization, and Restriction of Chemicals) regulations, which aim to protect human health and the environment by ensuring that risks associated with chemical substances are managed effectively.

Technical requirements in the US. In the United States, the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) oversees the regulation of pigments under the Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act. Unlike the EU, some color additives require pre-market approval by the FDA, and each batch has to undergo testing for impurities. Proper labeling of all ingredients and possible allergens is mandatory. The FDA also certifies color additives for safety and quality. Additionally, manufacturers must adhere to Cosmetic Good Manufacturing Practices (CGMP) to ensure the safety and quality of the pigments. Both regions have stringent regulations, but the specifics may differ, making it crucial for businesses to be aware of these requirements to ensure compliance.

Critical observations about the tests on animals

An attractive woman on the left and a picture of a person who appears to wear medical clothing holding a rabbit in their lap, pressing another hand with a stethoscope gently against the rabbit.

When it comes to pigments "not being tested on animals, one should realize the reasoning behind this. In most cases, the reason is not related to the ethical choices of the maker but the fact that the maker chooses the colorants and additives for the liquid carrier part of the pigment that has been tested over time sufficiently so that additional tests for the mixture of those are just not required.

For example, in most forms of Carbon Black (CI 77266), multiple animal tests have proven that it does not irritate the skin, or at least not to the extent that it would have a generally accepted causation. A fun fact: it is documented that for one of the tests that enabled this result, some skin of New Zealand rabbits (the poster animal on the commercials telling the product is not tested on animals) was used to prove the safety of this substance. Parts of the body of the rabbits were shaved, and patches with the substance were placed on those for 24 hours. Similarly, it was inserted into rabbits' eyes to prove it was not irritating. Such tests are mild compared to all other animal cruelty in various fields or production; it is just important to realize the actual reasoning behind the marketing endeavors, ethics, and the way requirements by law influence those.

Thus, once again, if you strive to be a professional artist, you should understand that in most cases, claims referring to the company "making ethical choices" regarding animal testing correlate to how little it is needed when the well-tested substances are mixed.

Practical Considerations

The practical takeaway here is straightforward: when you read a pigment label, you only see what the manufacturer wants you to see. It's unlikely that any reputable company would risk breaking any laws, so you can be reasonably sure that all the components have undergone necessary testing. However, the information on the label is often the bare minimum required by regulations. So, keep that context in mind. Don't expect to make groundbreaking discoveries about the pigment's contents, safety, or health risks just by studying the label.

3. Safety and Makers marketing strategies

Some other pigment maker’s marketing considerations

The market usually chooses a specific strategy for marketing its pigment lines. Thus, one must develop a realistic approach toward the marketing rhetoric of various producers. For example, if the maker promotes pigments containing Iron oxide, such as CI 77491 - Red Iron Oxide, CI 77492 - Yellow Iron Oxide, and CI 77499 - Black Iron Oxide, they may stress the benefits of that.

Marketing of iron oxides and carbon

Even though iron In is sometimes classified as a heavy metal, the label "free from heavy metals" on pigments is typically used by producers whose pigments contain Iron oxides. If that is preferable for the pigment maker, it strictly classifies heavy metals as only those that contain hazardous or poisonous substances like lead, mercury, cadmium, or chromium. In such context, pigment contents are often introduced, for example, as "officially certified" and "made from carefully chosen, separated particles of synthetically processed, refined, and purified Iron oxide."

In other words, once again, the makers operate within the limits of the law and present the substance according to the most favorable categorization. Thus, makers who use iron oxide can expressly stress that they do not use "heavy metals" as they base that on the categorization, which does not include iron in such lists.

Safety aspects - Both are generally safe: Iron oxides and Carbon

Dermatologists can affirm that pigments containing iron oxides are generally as safe as those containing carbon black colorants when formulated correctly. Both iron oxide and carbon black have been subjected to rigorous safety evaluations and are widely considered to be non-toxic and inert in their pigment form. Iron oxides are often synthetically manufactured to ensure purity and are free from harmful impurities like heavy metals. Similarly, when processed and purified properly, carbon black pigments also present a low risk of allergic reactions or toxicity. The key to safety in both cases lies in the quality of the manufacturing process and the absence of hazardous additives or contaminants.

Pigmet’s magnetic properties do not propose a health risk

Deramtologists and doctors can state that the magnetic properties of some pigments used in semi-permanent makeup are generally not a health risk. These magnetic properties usually come from iron oxides, considered safe and non-toxic in their pigment form. It's important to note that the magnetic properties of these pigments are weak and have a negligible impact on the body's magnetic field or biological processes.

For example, the iron oxide particles used in MRI contrast agents are engineered to be much larger and more magnetically responsive than those found in cosmetic pigments. Yet, even these are considered safe for most individuals. In the context of semi-permanent makeup, the minuscule magnetic attributes of the pigment do not interact significantly with bodily tissues or systems. Therefore, concerns about magnetic properties in pigments are often unfounded. What is crucial is that the pigment is of high quality, produced under strict manufacturing guidelines, and free from harmful contaminants. Their magnetic properties are not a health risk and do not meaningfully affect the body.

Marketing of “Fully organic” Carbon Black (CI 77266)

The pigment bottle in the middle has a sign "Inorganic as not containing Carbon" on the left and "Organic as containing Carbon" on the right.

When it comes to marketing strategies of different makers, you’ll often hear terms that may sound a bit “too good to be true”. For example, some pigment manufacturers describe their Furnace Black pigments (commonly known as Carbon Black 2) as "purely organic." This claim is based on the fact that these pigments contain around 55% hydrocarbon compounds, which are considered "organic" in chemical terms.

However, it's crucial to understand that no pigment colorant can be "100% organic" because it consists entirely of hydrocarbons. Pigments typically contain a blend of various compounds, including elemental carbon, which does not have the C-H bonds that characterize organic compounds. Additionally, these pigments usually undergo various processes that involve inorganic substances, and they may contain additives or other elements for stabilization and other functionalities. So, while a pigment might have a significant percentage of what is chemically considered "organic," it's misleading to label it as "purely organic.” Such carbon black pigments made using furnacing often contain additionally around 25-30% carbon-related elements, 5-10% elemental carbon (considered inorganic), and around 10% additional "trace inorganics" like potassium (K), chlorine (Cl), and calcium (Ca) - elements that are present in very small, often negligible amounts.

4. General observations that can be made

Regarding pigment color indexes, some conclusions can be made about whether the pigment is organic or inorganic. What characterizes inorganic pigments is that they generally have larger particles, less bright colors, and are more challenging to apply to the skin. That also allows them to be implanted with less risk of blowouts and migration. Generally, those heal to brownish colors over time. Regarding "opacity" as a property of a pigment, this is also related to the particle size.

Tyndall effect

Inorganic pigments generally have larger particle sizes than their organic counterparts. This larger size influences the pigments' interaction with light, resulting in a lighter appearance when implanted into the skin. The Tyndall effect, where light is scattered when passing through a medium with dispersed particles, plays a significant role here. Inorganic pigments with larger particles scatter light differently, leading to a more muted color appearance in the skin. The general rule is that the deeper the pigment molecule, the cooler and greyish it looks, and thus, inorganic particles tend to look more faded and less bright when inside the skin.

Lightfastness

Additionally, the larger particle size of inorganic pigments contributes to their Lightfastness or resistance to fading when exposed to light. Because the particles are larger, they are less prone to degradation or color shifts when exposed to UV radiation or other light sources. This results in a more stable color that can endure longer, making them a durable choice compared to organic colorants.

Implantation difficulty

If you see that the pigment is inorganic, you can quickly assess how practical it will be to use it on various skin types and areas. For instance, if the skin is oily, has pores resembling an "orange peel," and feels tough, then achieving the Powder Brows look with inorganic pigments becomes much more challenging.

Likewise, using inorganic pigments may not be the best option for an eyeliner line done between the lashes. The application is more difficult, the procedure may cause more skin damage, and the resulting color is less vibrant.

Therefore, knowing where the pigment will be applied and what kind of retention you're aiming for is important. The retention can be significantly shorter with inorganic pigments - sometimes even half as long.

6. Seeing behind the particle size

Particle size is often cited as important in determining how easily a pigment can be implanted into the skin. However, it's not the only indicator; the chemical composition of the pigment can be equally, if not more, significant. Take, for example, furnace black, which is also known as Black 2. Despite having a particle size ranging from 200-300 nm, it is relatively easier to implant than channel black, also known as Black 6, which has a smaller particle size of 90-100 nm.

The key reason for this lies in the chemical makeup of the pigments. Furnace black is composed of 55% hydrocarbon content, which is organic in nature. Organic compounds tend to have a better affinity with biological tissues like skin, making them easier to implant. On the other hand, channel black has only 19% hydrocarbon content. Despite its smaller particle size, its lower hydrocarbon content makes it less compatible with the skin, thus making it more challenging to implant successfully.

So, while particle size is certainly a consideration, it shouldn't be viewed in isolation. The organic hydrocarbon content of a pigment can significantly affect how easily it integrates with the skin. Therefore, a more comprehensive understanding of both particle size and chemical composition is crucial for successful pigment implantation.

The takeaway here is straightforward. Besides focusing on particle size, it's crucial to understand the chemical makeup of the colorant. For example, carbon can show up in two ways: as elemental carbon, which is inorganic, or as hydrocarbon, which forms a bond with hydrogen (C-H). This distinction is often more important for ease of application than the particle size alone.

7. Understanding the order of color indexes on the label

When it comes to understanding the composition of pigments, especially in semi-permanent makeup, one helpful clue is the order of the color index codes and additive names on the pigment label. Generally, this order signifies the concentration of each component within the pigment. The first listed ingredient is usually the most predominant, while each subsequent ingredient decreases in quantity or concentration. This can offer a basic understanding of what makes up the bulk of the pigment.

However, it's essential to understand that this is not the only piece of information needed to make comprehensive conclusions about a pigment's properties. For instance, you may find a pigment with a black color index code listed first, indicating its prominence in the formula. But if the pigment also contains multiple other yellow or red colorants, it would suggest that it has warm undertones. Even though black may be the most abundant colorant, the presence of these other colorants can significantly affect the pigment's overall tone. Such a pigment would automatically be less suitable for certain areas, like eyeliner between the lashes, despite the black color index being listed first. Therefore, while the ingredients' order provides some valuable insights, it's just one part of a more complex picture that should be considered in pigment selection.

Moreover, other elements listed on the pigment label, such as thickeners like glycerine, can also provide critical information about the pigment's properties. The concentration of such thickeners can give you a sense of the pigment's consistency, which can guide you on the best working technique for optimal results. Likewise, understanding the shades of the pigments listed can inform us about the color's potential cooling or warming effects once applied. This can be particularly valuable when aiming for specific tonal results in areas like eyeliner or brow shading. Therefore, a holistic view of all the ingredients, not just the colorants, can provide a more nuanced understanding of how a pigment will behave during and after application.

8. Conclusions

It's crucial to have realistic expectations about what pigment labels provide. Companies often disclose minimal information - just enough to meet regulatory requirements. Most pigments meet all the regulatory requirements, however, there is a very slim chance of discovering something, especially revealing from the label.

All labels should also be seen in the context of what the maker tries to achieve with marketing. Different companies often emphasize the benefits of certain ingredients. For instance, if pigments contain Iron oxides, the marketing will likely focus on their advantages, and vice versa. If the company has no organic pigments or has no pigments with Iron oxide, it may additionally want to prove why the alternative they are not using is greately sub-optimal or even less safe.

Dermatologists confirm that both iron oxides and carbon black are generally safe, given proper formulation. Similarly, they assert that the magnetic properties of some pigments do not pose a health risk. What matters is that the pigment is high-quality and free from harmful contaminants.

Be cautious when you see terms like "purely organic." No pigment can be 100% organic because it consists solely of hydrocarbons. What can be concluded is that inorganic pigments generally have larger particle sizes, leading to a lighter appearance and more muted colors when implanted. Always. be mindful of where the pigment will be implanted. There is not one “best” pigment - it all depends on the goal. For instance, inorganic pigments may not be ideal for oily or harsh skin types.

Additionally, be aware that the same color index can refer to different kinds of substances with different particle sizes and properties. An example is CI 77266, known as Carbon Black, each with varying properties depending on whether it is Channeled, Furnaced, or made thorough Thermal Processing.

Particle size is crucial but not the only factor. The chemical composition can also affect how easily a pigment implants into the skin. Similarily, the other additives and colorants in the pigment are more important to analyze in totality than to make conclusions based on the position of elements in the list, thinking that the pigment automatically has the properties of the first element with CI number in the list.

How to read the pigment labels?

"Reading pigment labels isn't rocket science. Approach it with a level head and realistic expectations. Most companies provide only the bare minimum of information; hands-on experience usually trumps label details."

1. Background

Adopting a Realistic Approach

2. Technical requirements

Critical observations about the tests on animals

Practical Considerations

3. Safety and Makers marketing strategies

Some other pigment maker’s marketing considerations

Marketing of iron oxides and carbon

Safety aspects - Both are generally safe: Iron oxides and Carbon

Pigmet’s magnetic properties do not propose a health risk

Marketing of “Fully organic” Carbon Black (CI 77266)

4. General observations that can be made

Tyndall effect

Lightfastness

Implantation difficulty

5. Seeing behind the colorant color index

6. Seeing behind the particle size

7. Understanding the order of color indexes on the label

8. Conclusions