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Skin types

Nov 17, 2023, Update: Nov 17, 2023, author: Powderbrows.com / Holisrtic PMU
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"Skin classification encompasses various factors such as Fitzpatrick types and the concentration of melanin, keratin, and hemoglobin. In this article, we will explore and categorize skin types into eight distinct categories: Normal, Oily, Dry, Combination, Sensitive, Mature, Dehydrated, and Vascular, analyzing each from the perspective of their suitability for pigmentation treatments, specifically powder brows."

1. Background


This article's content is derived from 42 interviews with pigmentation artists, most of whom specialize in the powder brows procedure as their primary service. These interviews were conducted between 2019 and 2022. The participating artists are among the highest earners in their regions, representing the top 18.7% in their respective areas. The group comprises 28 artists from EU countries, 11 from the UK, and three from the US. Their insights were further analyzed by a biologist and a chemist specializing in pigments and skin interactions. The aim of this article is to elucidate the principal differences among various skin types.

2. Skin in Context of Holistic PMU


A holistic approach is paramount for achieving optimal results in the realm of pigmentation procedures, particularly those like powder brows. This approach necessitates an understanding that transcends beyond mere technique and delves into the interplay of various disciplines: chemistry, physics, biology, and psychology. Each field uniquely contributes to our comprehensive understanding of the procedure, particularly when analyzing skin types primarily grounded in biology.

Biology and Skin Types

Biology plays a pivotal role in understanding skin types, as it deals with the physiological aspects of the skin, such as texture, elasticity, oil production, and the skin's response to various substances. Different skin types, ranging from dry, normal, and oily, to combination, mature, and sensitive, present unique challenges and responses to pigmentation procedures. For instance, oily skin may cause pigments to spread more, affecting the sharpness and longevity of the brows, while dry skin might have a different rate of absorption and healing.

Chemistry in Pigmentation

Chemistry comes into play when considering the composition of the pigments and their interaction with the skin. Factors like the skin's pH level and the pigments' chemical makeup can influence how colors are absorbed, retained, or even altered over time. The chemical stability of pigments, particle size, and ability to resist metabolic breakdown are critical considerations.

Physics: The Mechanism of Application

Physics is integral in understanding the mechanics of the application process. This involves the needle's penetration depth, angle, speed, and the force applied during the procedure. Physics helps in understanding how different needle configurations interact with various skin layers, affecting the distribution and retention of the pigment.

Psychology: Perception and Expectations

Lastly, psychology is crucial in understanding client expectations and perceptions. The psychological impact of semi-permanent makeup, including the generation of expectations, artists’ interaction with the client, communicating the end result to the client, and the overall interaction related to the procedure.

Thus, a holistic approach, integrating biology, chemistry, physics, and psychology, provides a comprehensive framework for understanding and executing pigmentation procedures, especially powder brows. In this approach, a nuanced understanding of skin types is very important.

3. Skin types and properties


On the left, a picture of skin layers (epidermis, dermis, hypodermis), and on the right, an attractive woman.
The major skin types include the following:
  • Normal skin
  • Dry skin
  • Oily skin
  • Combination skin
  • Sensitive skin
  • Mature skin
  • Vascular skin
  • Dehydrated Skin. 
One should still understand that this characteristic is based on the practical perspective in the context of semi-permanent makeup and powder brows, specifically. When it comes to the classification of skin types, no “one-size-fits-all” solution would enable us to determine the exact pigmentation strategies for “that kind of” skin. 

Skin properties and acceptability to pigmentation are always a combination of various factors, melanin concentration, keratin, and hemoglobin being one of the most propinent.

Melanin (Eumelanin and Pheomelanin)

Melanin is the primary pigment in the skin and is responsible for skin color, photoprotection, and modulating how skin reacts to cosmetic procedures, including pigmentation. The two types of melanin, eumelanin (brown-black pigment) and pheomelanin (red-yellow pigment) determine skin tone and reaction to UV exposure. Eumelanin predominates in darker skin types, providing more protection against UV radiation but potentially altering the appearance of pigments used in makeup. Pheomelanin is more common in lighter skin and is associated with higher visibility of applied pigments.

Skin with higher melanin levels (darker skin types) requires careful pigment selection and technique adaptation to ensure visibility and color accuracy. Lighter skin types (less melanin) provide a clearer canvas for pigmentation but may be more susceptible to UV-induced damage. That is why one should always use correctors (such as orange correctors) with skin with higher melanin concentration.

Keratin

Keratin is a protective protein found in the outer layers of skin, playing a crucial role in skin structure and barrier function. Keratin can contribute to oily skin conditions if the skin's turnover process is disrupted, leading to clogged pores and acne.

Additionally. the keratin layer helps maintain the skin's slightly acidic pH, which is crucial for barrier function and microbial defense. Disruptions in pH can affect the skin's receptivity to pigmentation.

Insulin Resistance, Kidney, and Intestine problems

Those systemic issues can influence keratin production and turnover, potentially leading to skin conditions like hyperkeratosis (thickened keratin layer), and affecting pigmentation procedures.

In hyperkeratotic skin, the excessive keratin layer can impede pigment absorption, requiring more precise technique and possibly more follow-up treatments.

Hemoglobin

Hemoglobin in red blood cells is crucial for oxygen transport. Its presence in skin capillaries influences skin tone and health.

Oxygenated (Oxidized) and Deoxygenated (Reduced) Skin

Oxygenated Skin. Higher oxygen levels lead to brighter, rosier skin, potentially affecting the appearance of pigments.
Deoxygenated Skin. Lower oxygen levels can cause a paler, more ashen skin tone, which might alter pigment visibility and healing.

Lower Red Blood Cell Count. A reduced red blood cell count can lead to less oxygenated skin, influencing its appearance and response to pigmentation procedures.

Understanding these skin properties is essential for tailoring pigmentation techniques and pigment choices. Skin with varying levels of melanin, keratin characteristics, and hemoglobin-related traits requires different approaches for optimal results. A comprehensive skin assessment considering these factors can help predict the skin’s response to pigmentation and guide the procedural strategy.

Next, we shall dive into the aspects related to skin properties that can be detected more easily before the procedure, listed above in this section.


4. Normal Skin


Skin contents on the left and an attractive woman on the right.
Normal skin is often considered the ideal type for pigmentation procedures due to its balanced characteristics. This skin type is characterized by its pinkish-clear appearance and exhibits proper hydration and nourishment. It has well-functioning sebaceous glands, which means sebum production is balanced, avoiding issues like excessive shine, blackheads, or enlarged pores.

Texture and Elasticity

Normal skin is known for its smooth texture and good elasticity, indicating a healthy collagen and elastin balance, which are key for maintaining skin firmness and flexibility.

Reactivity

This skin type typically doesn't irritate easily, making it more adaptable to various pigmentation procedures without significant risk of adverse reactions.

Pigment Absorption and Retention

Normal skin absorbs pigments effectively during the procedure and retains a significant amount of pigment post-healing. This characteristic is beneficial for achieving long-lasting and consistent coloration in treatments like powder brows.

Practical aspects

For many artists, normal skin type is obviously the best canvas for excellent powder brows procedures. It is possible to achieve “pixelation” that actually remains in the skin, and there is much less risk of migration and blurring of the lines when it comes to microblading or other pigmentation techniques. 

5. Dry Skin


Dry skin, characterized by its reduced sebum production compared to normal skin, presents unique challenges and opportunities in the context of pigmentation procedures, particularly powder brows.

Characteristics of Dry Skin

  • Reduced Sebum Production. The lower level of natural oils results in a lack of moisture, contributing to the skin's dry appearance.
  • Visibility of Wrinkles. Due to its poor hydration, dry skin is prone to early wrinkle formation, often appearing dull and thin.
  • Lack of Radiance and Peeling. This skin type typically lacks a healthy glow and may experience flaking or peeling.
  • Irritation and Sensitivity. Dry skin is frequently more susceptible to irritation, often becoming red after makeup removal or exposure to harsh atmospheric conditions.
  • Absence of Dilated Pores. Unlike oily skin, dry skin does not usually have visible dilated pores but may show a network of dilated blood vessels.

Pigmentation procedures on dry skin


  • Pleasant Working Conditions. The absence of redness and plasma oozing during the procedure makes working on dry skin relatively straightforward.
  • Pigment Spread and Pixel Visibility. Pigments tend to spread well on dry skin, and pixelation is usually clearly visible.
  • Technique Adaptation. A gentle, layered approach is optimal. Despite its quick pigment absorption, it's unnecessary to apply numerous layers.
  • Post-Procedure Healing. Dry skin typically heals without major issues but may take longer than combination or oily skin types. The thin nature of dry skin often ensures high rates of pigment retention and color preservation.
  • Hair Stroke Technique Suitability. Dry skin is conducive to techniques like hair stroking, given its texture and healing properties.

Considerations for Clients with Dry Skin


  • Medical Conditions and Skin State. It’s crucial to determine whether the dryness is a temporary condition or a result of a medical issue. Skin affected by medical conditions may experience uneven pigment exfoliation and inconsistent color post-healing.
  • Customized Care and Preparation. Ensuring that dry skin is well-moisturized and cared for before the procedure can enhance outcomes. The use of hydrating and soothing pre-treatment products can prepare the skin effectively.

6. “Unicorn” models


An attractive woman on the left and a young, attractive model with red hair color and freckles on the right.

Normal or dry skin, often with freckles

There is a specific type of skin that many semi-permanent artists consider ideal for powder brows and other semi-permanent makeup procedures - that is, fairly light, normal skin with lower melanin concentration and often with freckles. Those individuals have fairly fair skin, often red or blond hair, and light-colored eyes. Naturally, lighter or red hair is often a clear indication of overall lower melanin concentration. If it is genetically combined with having a variation in the MC1R gene, which influences skin and hair color, they can make superb portfolio models for any artist. Especially if they possess aesthetically beautiful facial features and are model-like and younger.

Who are the unicorn skin type models?

Many seasoned artists have called such individuals the “unicorn” models, as they are hard to find. Encountering such women who also happen to have bad eyebrows naturally presents an excellent chance to get very good portfolio pictures, and that has led many artists, even seasoned ones, not only to offer those models a free powder brows (or microblading) procedure but even offer them a compensation to get to create their brows. The reason for that is simple: such before and after pictures can be so effective marketing tools that the artist makes her money back manifold (often even tens or hundreds of times).

Lower melamine and pixelation retention relation

There is a good scientific explanation for the fact that girls with lighter eyes and hair color, often with freckles, make good sample models. For the most part, it is related to the lower melanin concentration in the skin.

Lower melanin levels in the skin mean less natural pigment, resulting in a lighter skin tone. When you introduce a foreign pigment, such as those used in semi-permanent makeup, it contrasts more distinctly against the lighter background. This contrast makes the pigment appear more pronounced and visible.

The biological reasons for pigment visibility

Additionally, melanin affects the skin's translucency. Less melanin allows for greater visibility of the pigment deposited beneath the skin's surface, making the colors appear brighter and more vivid. In darker skin tones, higher melanin levels can somewhat obscure or alter the appearance of the added pigment. In such lighter skin, the lack of competing pigmentation (natural melanin) means that the introduced pigments don't blend with existing skin tones as much, allowing them to retain their intended hue more faithfully. The “pixels” are clearly seen as the hairstroke lines or microblading. The skin absorbs the pigment, but if it is not oily, the lines will not lose their sharpness, nor will the edges of “pixels” be uneven.

Usually, ideally “dry enough” environment

However, there isn't a direct, universally applicable scientific correlation that states people with freckles invariably have less oily skin. Skin types vary greatly, and factors like genetics, hormonal influences, and environmental conditions play significant roles in determining skin oiliness. However, it’s often observed that individuals with freckles (typically with Fitzpatrick skin type II, for example) do have less oily skin. This is partly due to the characteristics of these skin types, which lean towards being drier or normal rather than oily.

The reason behind this could be rooted in genetics and the environmental adaptations of these skin types. People with fair skin, who are more prone to freckling, often come from regions with less intense sun exposure, where the skin has adapted to produce less melanin and potentially less sebum (skin oil). 

Thus, when you encounter such a perfect “unicorn model,” do not be afraid to approach her and offer the procedure. Many seasoned artists have done it in public, even in supermarkets or in the street.

7. Oily skin


On the left is an orange, a close-up of thick oily skin with large pores, and an attractive woman on the right.

Oily Skin in Pigmentation


Oily skin, as opposed to dry skin, presents a distinct set of characteristics and challenges in the context of pigmentation procedures like powder brows. Its management requires a nuanced approach that considers its unique physiological properties.

Characteristics of Oily Skin


  • Increased Sebum Production. Oily skin produces more sebum than necessary, leading to a shiny appearance, often accompanied by blackheads, enlarged pores, and a greyish tone. This excess sebum contributes to the skin's thicker texture than non-oily types.
  • Response to External Factors. Generally, oily skin handles makeup removal and environmental conditions well. It is resilient due to its elasticity and thickness.
  • Aging and Wrinkle Formation. This skin type ages slower and is less prone to early wrinkle formation. However, when wrinkles do appear, they are often deep.

Pigmentation Challenges

Implanting pigment into oily skin can be difficult and sometimes nearly impossible if the oiliness is extreme. Post-healing, the pigment often acquires a cool tint and may exfoliate more quickly than in other skin types. During the procedure, oily skin can react defensively, exhibiting bleeding, oozing, and redness. This reaction, often involving plasma, can push the pigment out of the skin, leading to poor pigment settlement.

Pigmentation Techniques for Oily Skin


  • Layered and Gentle Approach. The pigmentation process should be gentle, conducted in layers, and preferably at a lower speed setting. This approach helps in managing the skin's reactive nature during the procedure.
  • Pigment Selection and Application. Warmer shades with a yellow modifier are recommended to counteract the cool tint that oily skin may impart to pigments. The intensity of the color should be built up by applying multiple layers rather than deeper pigmentation.
  • Visibility Challenges. Pixels and gradients may be difficult to discern during the procedure, especially in the presence of an "orange peel" texture. Firmer skin stretching is advised to smooth out the surface in such cases.
  • Technique Adjustments for Organic Pigments. When using organic pigments, a swift procedure is beneficial. Shorter strokes are preferable, especially with devices having a high stroke range (3.0-3.5mm), to avoid the risk of visible dots or pigment deposits after healing.

Post-Procedure Care and Healing

  • Managing Plasma Exudation. Post-procedure, it is advisable to drain any plasma that appears to prevent the formation of a thick, unsightly scab.
  • Color Development Post-Exfoliation. Immediately after scab exfoliation, the pigment may appear very light, but it typically intensifies over the following weeks.

Challenges with Inorganic and mineral pigments

For some clients with oily skin, implanting mineral or inorganic pigments may be so challenging that it simply does not justify itself. A lot of damage is done to the skin, but “packing” enough pigment that the color would remain in the skin is still not achieved. Many seasoned artists have pointed out that the possibility of pigment implantation is further comülicated if the machine that the artist uses has a low stroke height (short Stroke: 1.8-2.5mm). Then, the procedure may result in skin damage and possible scarring but not any visible results regarding visible results. 

That, combined with the principle “first, do no harm” (primum non nocere), has led many seasoned artists to consider not doing the procedure at all when it comes to clients with very oily skin. In recent years, some well-known and very experienced artists have wondered if the actual range of women who use the semi-permanent pigmentation procedure is not a viable solution larger than thought before. 

8. Combination Skin


Combination in Pigmentation Procedures

Combination skin, with its unique blend of oily and dry areas, poses specific challenges regarding pigmentation. Considering its distinct characteristics and reactions, this skin type requires a tailored approach.

Characteristics of Combination Skin


  • T-Zone Greasiness. Combination skin typically exhibits an oily T-zone, which includes the forehead, nose, and chin. These areas are prone to increased sebum production, leading to shine and potential pore enlargement.
  • Dryness in Other Facial Areas. Contrasting the T-zone, other parts of the face can be dry, lacking in sebum, and may exhibit characteristics similar to dry skin types, such as flakiness or a feeling of tightness.
  • Reactivity to External Factors. This skin type often responds to makeup removal, various cosmetics, and external environmental factors, necessitating careful selection of skincare and makeup products.

Subtypes of Combination Skin


  • Combination-Oily. This subtype leans more towards oiliness, particularly in the T-zone, with occasional dry patches.
  • Combination-Dry. Here, the skin is predominantly dry with specific areas, usually the T-zone, showing oiliness.

Procedure Considerations for Combination Skin



Pigmentation Difficulty. Combination skin is generally more challenging to work with than normal or dry skin but is usually more manageable than purely oily skin types.
  • Procedure Response. Compared to oily skin, combination skin typically exhibits a more balanced response during pigmentation. This includes moderate bleeding, oozing, and redness.
  • Pigment Penetration and Visibility. The pigment penetration in combination skin is relatively good, with visible pixelation in some cases. However, the color may cool down slightly post-procedure, a factor to consider when selecting pigments.
  • Technique Adaptation. It’s important to adjust the pigmentation technique according to the specific area of the face being treated. The oily zones may require different handling than the drier areas to achieve uniform results.

Post-Procedure Care and Healing

  • Balanced Care. Post-procedure skincare for combination skin should balance the needs of both oily and dry areas. This might involve using different products or application techniques across various facial zones.
  • Monitoring Color Development. Given the tendency of colors to cool down slightly in combination with skin, monitoring the pigment's development during the healing process is important to ensure the desired outcome.

9. Sensitive skin


Sensitive Skin in Pigmentation Procedures



Sensitive skin, known for its heightened reactivity to both internal and external factors, requires a particularly cautious and informed approach in pigmentation procedures. This skin type is frequently encountered in women, with notable fluctuations linked to hormonal changes and emotional states.

Characteristics of Sensitive Skin


  • Reactivity to Factors. Sensitive skin reacts distinctly to various stimuli, including hormonal shifts, emotional changes, environmental conditions, and skincare products.
  • Symptoms. Common symptoms include redness, a burning sensation, itching, slight swelling, and a feeling of excessive warmth. These symptoms are indicative of the skin's heightened response mechanism.
  • External Factor Sensitivity. This skin type shows an exaggerated response to external factors, particularly temperature changes. Even routine actions like disinfecting the skin can trigger redness.
  • Allergy Susceptibility. Sensitive skin may have a higher propensity for allergic reactions, particularly in contact with certain anesthetics or pigments used in procedures.

Procedure Considerations for Sensitive Skin


  • Gentle Approach. An extremely delicate technique is imperative to minimize irritation and potential allergic responses when working with sensitive skin.
  • Pre-Procedure Testing. Given the susceptibility to allergies, conducting patch tests with anesthetics and pigments can be vital to identify any adverse reactions before the actual procedure.
  • Temperature and Environmental Control. Maintaining a comfortable and stable environment during the procedure can help reduce skin reactivity. This includes controlling room temperature and avoiding direct exposure to heat sources or drafts.


Post-Procedure Care and Healing


  • Aftercare Adaptation. Post-procedure care should be tailored to minimize irritation and support the skin's recovery. This might involve using hypoallergenic and soothing skincare products.
  • Monitoring for Adverse Reactions. Close observation post-procedure is crucial to promptly address any signs of allergic reactions or heightened skin sensitivity.


10. Mature skin


An attractive woman on the left and an older woman on the right.

Mature Skin in Powder Brows procedure

Mature skin, typically found in women over the age of 50, presents specific challenges and considerations in pigmentation procedures due to its distinct physiological characteristics. This skin type requires a nuanced approach, encompassing gentle techniques and careful pigment selection.

Characteristics of Mature Skin


  • Physical Properties. Mature skin often appears more flabby, dry, and dehydrated than younger skin. It is generally thinner and more fragile, with an increased tendency for vascular issues.
  • Regeneration and Restructuring. The natural regeneration and restructuring processes of the skin slow down with age. This aspect is crucial when scheduling post-pigmentation appointments, ideally allowing for a longer healing period of about 8-10 weeks.
  • Pigment Retention and Saturation. Mature skin retains a significant amount of pigment and becomes saturated quickly during pigmentation. This necessitates applying fewer layers of pigment and employing an extremely light and delicate technique.
  • Pigment Selection. Choosing pigments that are gentle in composition is advisable. Opting for a color 1-2 tones lighter than desired can also be beneficial, as the skin's ability to hold pigment effectively decreases with age.
  • Vascular Concerns. The skin's thinning and increased blood vessel fragility often lead to vascular issues. This condition can be addressed by adding a drop of olive modifier or choosing pigments with a green base, especially if it complements the client's skin undertones.

Skin Type Variations in Mature Skin


  • Sensitive, Vascular, and Dehydrated Subtypes. It's important to recognize that mature skin can also be classified into sensitive, vascular, and dehydrated subtypes. Each subtype requires a specific approach.
  • Combination Possibilities. Mature skin, like any other skin type, can present in combination with other characteristics. For example, oily skin can still be dehydrated, while dry skin might also exhibit vascular properties.

Pigmentation Techniques for Mature Skin


  • Gentle Application. Due to mature skin's increased fragility and reduced elasticity, the pigmentation process should be as gentle as possible to minimize trauma and support better healing.
  • Post-Procedure Care. Aftercare should focus on hydrating and soothing the skin, using products specifically formulated for sensitive or mature skin types. This approach helps in reducing potential inflammation and supports the healing process.

11. Dehydrated Skin


Dehydrated skin, characterized by a lack of water in the epidermis, often results from a combination of external factors and lifestyle choices. Understanding this skin condition is crucial for effectively managing pigmentation procedures, such as powder brows, to ensure optimal results and minimize potential complications.

Causes and Characteristics of Dehydrated Skin


  • Impaired Epidermal Barrier. Dehydrated skin typically features a compromised epidermal barrier, leading to increased water loss and reduced skin hydration. This impairment can be attributed to various external and internal factors.
  • External and Lifestyle Factors. Key contributors to skin dehydration include inadequate fluid intake, overzealous removal of natural skin oils, excessive skin cleansing, and the use of strong mattifying cosmetics. Environmental conditions such as prolonged exposure to air-conditioned environments, frequent sunbathing, and artificial tanning can exacerbate the condition.
  • Medication and Stimulant Impact. Certain medications, particularly anti-acne treatments, can intensify skin dehydration. Additionally, lifestyle choices like smoking cigarettes and consuming alcohol play a significant role in depleting skin moisture.

Procedure Considerations for Dehydrated Skin


  • Pre-Treatment Skin Preparation. Addressing the hydration needs of the skin before a pigmentation procedure is crucial. This may involve advising clients on increasing water intake and using hydrating skincare products.
  • Adjusting Procedure Techniques: During pigmentation, it's essential to be aware of the skin's increased sensitivity and propensity for irritation. Gentle techniques and minimal skin trauma are advisable.
  • Pigment Absorption and Healing. Dehydrated skin may absorb and retain pigments differently compared to well-hydrated skin. The healing process may also be affected, requiring careful monitoring and possibly extended healing times.

Post-Procedure Care for Dehydrated Skin


    • Enhanced Hydration and Protection. Post-procedure skincare should focus on rehydrating the skin and protecting the epidermal barrier. Products with hydrating and soothing ingredients are recommended.
    • Lifestyle Adjustments. Clients may be advised to modify certain lifestyle habits, such as reducing alcohol consumption and avoiding excessive sun exposure, to improve skin hydration and overall health.


    12. Vascular Skin


    An attractive woman on the left and blood vessels on the right and the back.

    Vascular Skin in Pigmentation Procedures

    Vascular skin, marked by the fragility of blood vessels, requires a specialized approach in pigmentation procedures like powder brows. Understanding the intricacies of this skin type is crucial for practitioners to perform effective and safe treatments.

    Characteristics and Causes of Vascular Skin


    • Fragile Blood Vessels. The primary trait of vascular skin is the increased fragility of its blood vessels, making it prone to redness and visible capillaries. This fragility can lead to quick bruising and prolonged redness after any invasive procedure.
    • Influential Factors. Several factors contribute to the development of vascular skin. Hormonal activity, particularly the influence of estrogen, plays a significant role. Inflammatory factors circulating in the bloodstream can exacerbate this condition.
    • Lifestyle and Stress Impact. External elements such as improper lifestyle choices, high stress levels, and environmental stressors can also intensify the symptoms associated with vascular skin.

    Procedure Considerations for Vascular Skin


    • Colorimetry in Pigment Selection. When working with vascular skin, the principles of colorimetry become especially important. Selecting pigments with a green or olive base is advisable to neutralize redness effectively. These tones help balance the red hues characteristic of vascular skin.
    • Gentle Technique. Due to the sensitivity and fragility of vascular skin, a gentle approach during pigmentation is essential. Minimizing pressure and trauma helps reduce the risk of excessive redness or bruising.
    • Healing and Aftercare. Vascular skin may exhibit a more intense reaction post-procedure, necessitating careful aftercare to manage inflammation and support healing. Soothing, anti-inflammatory skincare products can be beneficial in reducing redness and promoting recovery.

    Extended Implications and Precautions


    • Pre-Procedure Assessment. A thorough skin assessment before the procedure is crucial to identify the extent of vascular characteristics. This assessment guides the customization of the pigmentation technique and pigment selection.
    • Monitoring Hormonal Influences. Additional considerations may be necessary for clients with hormonal influences contributing to vascular skin. Hormonal fluctuations can affect skin sensitivity and healing, requiring adjustments in treatment planning.
    • Stress and Lifestyle Management. Advising clients on stress management and healthier lifestyle choices can aid in mitigating some of the vascular skin symptoms, potentially leading to better outcomes in pigmentation procedures.

    13. Conclusions



    When it comes to skin types, first one has to understand that the actual biological properties of the skin can not be deducted directly from the Fitzpatrick scale of skin types, as different Fitzpatrick skin types can have different properties regarding the melanin concentration, keratin and hemoglobin in the skin. In the context of semi-permanent makeup and power brows, we can classify skin according to its acceptability to pigmentation into Normal skin, Dry skin, Oily skin, Combination skin, Sensitive skin, Mature skin, Dehydrates skin, and Vascular skin.


    Normal Skin


    • Ideal for pigmentation: effective absorption and retention.
    • Less risk of migration and blurring in techniques like microblading.
    A specific catregory of women with normal, fairly light skin, lighter hair, and eye color, often with freckles, is referred to as “unicorn models.” They make ideal portfolio model material, as it is easy to apply the pigmentation to that type of skin, and the results look sharp, pixelated, and clearly visible.


    Oily Skin


    • Employ a gentle approach in layers at a lower speed to manage the skin's reactive nature.
    • Use warmer shades with a yellow modifier to balance the cool tint. Build color intensity through multiple layers instead of depth.
    • Due to skin texture and potential "orange peel" appearance, firm stretching is necessary for clarity.
    • Use quick procedures with shorter strokes, particularly when using high-stroke range devices (3.0-3.5mm).
    • Drain any exuded plasma to avoid thick scab formation.
    • Expect the color to appear light initially after scabbing, intensifying over time.
    • In cases of extreme oiliness, the implantation of inorganic or mineral pigments can be challenging, leading to potential skin damage without effective pigment deposit.
    • Reflect on the "first, do no harm" principle when dealing with very oily skin. Assess the procedure's viability, as it may not suit all clients.


    Dry Skin


    • Less natural oil leads to a drier appearance.
    • Prone to early wrinkles due to poor hydration, often appears dull and may peel.
    • More susceptible to irritation, with redness following makeup removal or environmental exposure.
    • Typically lacks visibly enlarged pores but may show dilated blood vessels.
    • Good working conditions: Minimal redness and plasma oozing during procedures.
    • Pigment spreads well, with clear pixelation.
    • No need for excessive layering despite quick pigment absorption.
    • Heals slower than oily or combination skin but ensures high pigment retention.
    • Texture and healing properties are favorable for hair strokes.
    • Important to assess if dryness is due to an underlying health issue.
    • Hydrating pre-treatment products are recommended.

    Combination Skin


    • Presence of an oily T-zone with increased sebum production.
    • Parts of the face outside the T-zone can be dry, exhibiting flakiness or tightness. Responds to makeup removal and environmental influences.
    • Variations in oiliness and dryness distribution across the face.
    • More challenging than normal or dry skin but less so than oily skin. Exhibits moderate bleeding, oozing, and redness during pigmentation.
    • Generally good pigment penetration; slight color cooling possible post-procedure. Adjust techniques for oily and dry zones to achieve consistent results.
    • Skincare should address the needs of both oily and dry areas.
    • Essential to observe pigment development during healing, especially considering potential color shifts.

    Sensitive Skin


    • Sensitive skin reacts strongly to hormonal changes, emotional states, and environmental conditions. Includes redness, burning, itching, swelling, and excessive warmth.
    • Exaggerated response to temperature changes and skincare products.
    • The higher propensity for allergic reactions to anesthetics or pigments.
    • Extremely delicate technique required to minimize irritation.
    • Conduct patch tests to identify potential allergic reactions.
    • Maintain a comfortable environment to reduce skin reactivity.
    • Use hypoallergenic and soothing skincare products for recovery.
    • Close observation post-procedure to address any allergic reactions or sensitivity.

    Mature Skin


    • More flabby, dry, and thinner than younger skin, with increased vascular issues.
    • Post-procedure healing requires longer (8-10 weeks) due to slower skin regeneration and restructuring processes.
    • Mature skin quickly becomes saturated with pigment, necessitating fewer and lighter pigment layers.
    • Opt for pigments that are gentle in composition and lighter in shade.
    • Address vascular issues in mature skin with specific pigment choices, such as olive modifiers or green-based pigments.
    • Be aware of subtypes like sensitive, vascular, and dehydrated within mature skin, and tailor the approach accordingly.
    • Mature skin may present in combination with other skin characteristics, such as oily yet dehydrated or dry yet vascular.
    • Employ extremely gentle pigmentation techniques to minimize trauma.
    • Focus on hydrating and soothing aftercare, using products formulated for sensitive or mature skin types.

    Dehydrated Skin



    • Emphasize the importance of skin hydration before the procedure (increasing water intake, using hydrating skincare products).
    • Employ gentle techniques during pigmentation to accommodate the skin's increased sensitivity and avoid further irritation.
    • Dehydrated skin may absorb and retain pigments differently, influencing the procedure's approach and expected outcomes.
    • Potentially extended healing process, careful monitoring is needed due to the skin's altered state.
    • Concentrate on rehydrating the skin after the procedure, using products that enhance moisture retention and soothe the skin.
    • Advise client on reducing alcohol consumption and limiting sun exposure to improve overall skin hydration and health.
    • Focus on skincare practices and products that support and protect the compromised epidermal barrier of dehydrated skin.
    • Customize the pigmentation process and aftercare to each client’s unique skin condition, considering any medications or environmental factors contributing to dehydration.

    Vascular Skin


    • For color neutralization, select pigments with green or olive bases to counteract the red tones typical of vascular skin.
    • Minimize pressure and avoid aggressive procedures to reduce the risk of bruising and excessive redness.
    • Focus on anti-inflammatory and soothing skincare to manage post-procedure inflammation and support recovery.
    • Conduct a thorough assessment of skin characteristics to tailor the pigmentation technique and pigment selection.
    • Adjust treatment planning considering hormonal factors that may affect skin sensitivity and healing in vascular skin.
    • Advise clients on managing stress and adopting healthier lifestyle habits to mitigate vascular symptoms.
    • Counsel clients to avoid activities and environmental factors exacerbating vascular skin conditions.
    • Tailor the pigmentation process based on the individual’s skin response, considering the likelihood of prolonged redness or quick bruising.
    • Keep a close watch on the healing process, providing necessary interventions to ensure optimal outcomes.
    • Inform clients about the importance of proper skincare routines to maintain the health of vascular skin and enhance pigmentation results.
     
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    Irina
    Friday, Nov 17, 2023

    Good article, better than the workbook I got from my trainer in Poland.


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