The limitations of the Hairstrokes technique

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1. Background

In preparing this article, we consulted 36 pigmentation artists who have either transitioned to the Hairstrokes technique or included it in their service offerings. Of these artists, 28 are based in the European Union, 6 in the United Kingdom, and 2 in the United States. Our research draws on ongoing projects initiated in 2019 and 2020. Over the years, the approach to Hairstrokes has evolved, influenced by various factors that have increased its popularity.

The focus of this article is to identify situations where the Hairstrokes technique is not advisable for clients and to discuss instances where alternative techniques may be more suitable.

2. History

The Hairstrokes technique has a long history, similar to microblading, which has been around for centuries. However, Hairstrokes started gaining significant popularity in Europe around 2014 and have shown remarkable growth. Many artists regard Hairstrokes as a superior solution, combining the longevity of powder brows with the natural appearance of microblading. This technique aims to incorporate the positive aspects of both methods while avoiding their drawbacks. Notably, Hairstrokes have seen a surge in popularity since the second half of 2023, which is expected to continue into 2024.

PMU Hub, one of the world's largest online platforms for permanent makeup (PMU), stated at the end of 2023, "Machine hair strokes have dominated the PMU industry in 2023, and there are no signs of it stopping in 2024!” (quote from pmuhub.com). This view is widely shared among the most successful pigmentation artists globally.

3. Technical Perspectives

From a technical standpoint, the Hairstrokes technique involves creating eyebrow patterns using a pigmentation machine, typically with a single needle. These patterns often feature intersecting lines, a gradient effect within the lines, and a powdered shadow effect. Such complexities are not achievable with other techniques, including microblading. Unlike microblading and similar styles, Hairstrokes patterns are more intricate. Achieving gradient lines successfully depends heavily on precisely executing the technical nuances of creating each line.

Piercing vs. Cutting

A notable advantage of the Hairstrokes technique is its ability to create lifelike, fluffy, and thick hair strokes without the need to open the skin, as is the case with microblading. Hairstrokes employs a PMU (Permanent Makeup) machine with a needle, usually ranging from 0.25 to 0.35 mm in diameter. This needle moves rapidly up and down to pierce the skin, depositing pigment at a depth similar to microblading. However, the puncture wounds created by machine needles are smaller and heal more rapidly. These smaller wounds cause less disruption to the skin's collagen network and close quickly, thanks to the reduced area needing regeneration.

Less Traumatization

The Hairstrokes technique makes each skin puncture more localized, causing less damage to the collagen fibers. This localized approach aids in a healing process that more likely maintains the original collagen structure, minimizing the chances of scar tissue formation. Using machine needles in Hairstrokes also allows for more consistent depth control due to their mechanized nature. This consistency is crucial for uniform healing and further reduces the risk of scarring.

Conversely, microblading tends to inflict more significant damage to the collagen network. This is because a blade's more extensive linear wounds disrupt more collagen fibers than the smaller, localized punctures from machine needles. Healing linear wounds is generally more complex, with newly formed collagen often denser and more disorganized during the healing phase, leading to potential scar formation. In contrast, machine pigmentation creates smaller, more consistent wounds. These wounds are less disruptive to the collagen network and heal faster, lowering the risk of scarring.

4. Classic resrictions vs. Hairstrokes

No Problems with Oily Skin

The implantation method used in the Hairstrokes technique is a critical factor in its versatility, particularly regarding skin types. Unlike microblading, which is often not recommended for individuals with thick or oily skin, Hairstrokes face fewer restrictions in these cases. Some experienced Hairstrokes artists have even suggested that the technique is particularly well-suited for oily skin, though this may be somewhat of an exaggeration. It's inaccurate to say that the procedure becomes easier simply because the skin is oily or thick. Additionally, using hybrid pigments containing hydrocarbons does not necessarily yield better results on oily skin since these pigments are easily implantable on all skin types. In summary, oily skin does not pose a significant problem for the Hairstrokes technique.

The Reason Behind the Universality of Hairstrokes

The primary reason Hairstrokes can be effectively used on oily skin relates to its unique method of pigment implantation. Unlike microblading, the Hairstrokes technique does not create linear wounds, which can lead to pigment migration or spreading.

Analyzing why microblading can be problematic on oily skin, we find the implantation method to be a significant factor. Microblading typically causes more damage due to the skin being cut open. This method involves making more extensive linear cuts than the puncture wounds created by machine needles. These linear wounds have a greater surface area exposed, leading to a more significant disruption of the collagen network. The larger size of these wounds can slow the healing process as a more extensive area must regenerate.

Additionally, the linear incisions disturb more collagen fibers. Fibroblasts lay down new collagen during the healing process to repair the wound. Still, this new collagen can be denser and more disorganized than the original network, potentially leading to scar tissue formation.

Furthermore, the depth of penetration by a microblading blade can vary more than that of a machine needle due to its manual application. This inconsistency in depth can result in uneven healing and increased scarring.

In conclusion, the restrictions typically associated with microblading on thick and oily skin are much less of an issue with the Hairstrokes technique.

Actual Restrictions Regarding Hairstrokes

However, this does not imply that Hairstrokes is without any limitations or that it is the ideal choice for everyone. Experienced artists collectively acknowledge that while skin properties do not significantly limit the use of Hairstrokes, the technique does have certain constraints. These restrictions are more related to the characteristics of the natural eyebrow hair rather than the skin type.

5. Thick Natural Brow Hair

It might seem obvious, but some clients with thick natural brow hair often seek the Hairstrokes procedure. However, many experienced artists frequently decline these requests. This is because, regardless of the procedure's execution quality, there is often little to no improvement in such cases.

Essentially, Hairstrokes are not optimal for clients desiring a drastic transformation that significantly deviates from their original brow shape. We have yet to encounter Hairstrokes artists who recommend shaving off a part of the brow to create an ideal pattern on skin areas without natural hair growth. On the other hand, such extensive transformations are more commonly achieved using the powder brows technique or its variants.

The core philosophy of Hairstrokes centers on achieving a natural look, enhanced through artistic mastery, rather than completely altering the appearance to deviate from the individual's natural hair growth and its characteristics.

6. Long Curvy Natural Brow Hair

According to many Hairstrokes artists, the second major limitation relates to the specific characteristics of an individual's natural brow hair. Specifically, if a client's natural brow hairs are strong, long, and curvy, there tends to be a noticeable discrepancy between their natural hair and the pattern created by Hairstrokes. This difference is often why artists might decline the procedure, even though there are no technical barriers to performing it.

This point underscores the fundamental goal of Hairstrokes: to produce a natural-looking result that enhances and complements the client's existing brow hair rather than contradicting it. In perhaps no other brow pigmentation procedure is the analysis of the client's natural brow hair — its structure, diameter, curvature, color, and shape — as critical as it is with Hairstrokes.

7. Unusual shape and brow hair growth

Unusual Brow Shape or Hair Growth Direction

Many artists decide against the Hairstrokes procedure after evaluating the client's natural brow shape and hair growth direction. They may refuse the procedure if they cannot find a suitable Hairstrokes pattern that aligns with the client's natural brow shape. The unique shape of a brow can be due to genetic predisposition or a history of heavy plucking. Regardless of the cause, artists must assess the current shape and growth direction at the time of the procedure.

This practice of declining the procedure due to the natural brow shape, especially when the hair growth direction is unusual, aligns with the core artistic principles of Hairstrokes. Before beginning, artists must clearly understand the specific patterns they will use. While there is room for some transformation or enhancement, there must be a foundational structure upon which the brow is built.

Many Hairstrokes artists, somewhat humorously, note that a large percentage of Asian clients tend to have similar natural brow growth patterns, making the Hairstrokes procedure more straightforward for them. Other professionals acknowledge that while not all Asian clients have the same hair growth pattern, there is generally less variation compared to European clients. This doesn't mean Hairstrokes are less suitable for European clients, but rather that if an artist cannot envisage a specific pattern to follow, they should not proceed with the procedure.

8. Three Levels of Forward Thinking

In Hairstrokes, artists distinguish themselves from other brow grooming experts and pigmentation artists through a unique approach to envisioning brow transformations.

First Level: Immediate Transformation

This level is commonly utilized by fast-order brow bar artists, represented humorously as “While you're talking, I'm thinking about how I'd do your eyebrows.” It involves visualizing the immediate shaping, tinting, or pigmentation outcome in the brows, akin to what's seen in direct “after” photos of brow procedures.

Second Level: Visualization of the Healed Result

Here, the artist anticipates how the brows, completed with a specific technique and pattern, will appear once healed. This requires the artist to mentally process the entire healing phase, enabling them to envisage the client's brow area around two months post-procedure. This includes considerations like how the lines have healed and shortened, the fading of color, and how the pattern integrates with the natural brow hair.

Third Level: PRC (Perpetual Retouching Cycle) Look

This advanced level of foresight is typical of professional, experienced artists. It involves visualizing how the brows appear after three to five retouching sessions. At this stage, artists can recommend the best long-term solution for the client, not just based on selling multiple procedures but by providing a solution that best suits the client’s needs and understanding.

Client's Eventual Appreciation of Level 3 Approach

For a professional Hairstrokes artist, possessing Level 3 forward-thinking skills is essential. This involves visualizing the procedure's immediate outcome and understanding its long-term effects on the brow as it heals and evolves. Clients have diverse preferences and desires, and part of the holistic approach in Permanent Makeup (PMU) is to educate them about the various options and their long-term impact, not just focusing on the immediate results.

Our experience shows that while some clients may initially react unexpectedly to this open and honest discussion about how different techniques will affect their skin and brow area over time, they greatly appreciate this approach. It provides a clearer understanding of the procedure's long-term effects, helping clients make more informed decisions.

9. Conclusions

Hair strokes, a semi-permanent makeup technique, have existed for decades but saw a significant surge in popularity in the latter half of 2023, continuing to expand globally in 2024. Many artists describe Hairstrokes as combining the durability of powder brows with the natural appearance of microblading.

This popularity and the technique's distinct features and limitations are mainly due to how pigment is implanted. Unlike microblading, which involves cutting the skin with a blade, Hairstrokes uses a PMU machine and needle that rapidly pierces the skin, depositing pigment at a depth similar to microblading. The resulting puncture wounds are smaller, heal quicker, and cause less disruption to the collagen network.

This fundamental difference means Hairstrokes are less restricted by skin types like oily or thick skin, which are often problematic for microblading. However, this doesn't imply that Hairstrokes is without limitations.

The primary restrictions of Hairstrokes relate more to the client's natural brow hair properties rather than skin type. These include:

Thick Natural Brow Hair: Artists often refuse Hairstrokes for clients with thick, heavy natural brow hair since the procedure would not be visibly effective and may require removing parts of the natural brow.
Long Curvy Natural Brow Hair: Mimicking such hair types can be challenging, as they don't align with typical Hairstrokes patterns, leading to a noticeable aesthetic contrast.
Unusual Brow Shape or Hair Growth Direction: If a client's natural brow shape and hair growth don't align with feasible Hairstrokes patterns, many professional artists choose not to perform the procedure.

Three Levels of Forward Thinking

A professional Hairstrokes artist should excel in "Level 3 forward-thinking," which encompasses:

Level 1: Visualizing the immediate post-treatment result.
Level 2: Imagining the healed result.
Level 3: Envisioning the long-term outcome over multiple retouches, or the "Perpetual Retouch Cycle."

Achieving Level 3 visualization signifies the pinnacle of professional expertise in Hairstrokes artistry.