Advanced brow mapping (expert advice)

Videos

Powder Brows

Procedure, Techniques, Pigments, Aftercare...

Microblading

Procedure, Technique, Patterns, Supplies, Retention...

Ombre Brows

Soft Ombre, Pixels, Whip, Pendulum techniques...

Hairstrokes

Nano Brows, Hairstrokes patterns, Natural PMU...

Combo Brows

Powder + Miroblading, Powder + Hairstrokes...

Marketing

Instagram, Facebook, TikTok, Organic growth...

Removal

Saline, Lactic Acid, Laser removal procedure...

Articles

Powder Brows

Procedure, Techniques, Pigments, Aftercare...

Microblading

Procedure, Technique, Patterns, Supplies, Retention...

Ombre Brows

Soft Ombre, Pixels, Whip, Pendulum techniques...

Hairstrokes

Nano Brows, Hairstrokes patterns, Cashmiere...

Getting started

Starting artist adivce, practical first steps...

Marketing

Offline marketing, Online marketing, website, domains...

Practical Tips

Guides, Tips, Suggestions, Walkthroughs, Case studies...

Removal

Saline, Lactic Acid, Laser removal procedure...

Tops Pricing

1. Background

Many artists learn fairly standardized approaches to brow mapping during their powder brows or microblading training. In this article, we'll explore some of the insights that more experienced artists have shared about their techniques for brow mapping. All the contributors to this article are PMU artists with over four years of experience in various Powder Brows techniques. We gathered input from 47 artists, and the vast majority (over 80%) are among the highest-earning artists in their regions. Most participating artists are located in EU countries, with five from the UK and three from the US.

While there were some variations in brow-shaping techniques among these artists, these differences were not tied to their geographical locations. Instead, they related more to each artist's unique background and style preferences. Additionally, two aesthetic surgeons reviewed and assessed the techniques discussed below. Their input significantly impacted the final recommendations and was highly valued. In fact, their advice was almost universally agreed upon by the artists consulted.

Common issues for beginners

In the realm of brow mapping, several standardized methods yield valid results. However, the issue with these standard methods arises when the client's facial or skull structure deviates from what is considered the aesthetically "perfect" symmetrical female face. But, the more unique features a face has, the higher the likelihood that brows measured using standard methods won't optimally enhance the client's natural beauty.

The Need for a Holistic Approach

Brow mapping is an area that significantly benefits from a holistic approach. It's crucial for artists, especially those new to the field, to understand that brow mapping isn't just about focusing on the brows alone. The entire face, and more specifically, the skull structure, must be taken into consideration.

Since no face possesses a "perfect" facial structure with absolute symmetry and aesthetic excellence, brow mapping that strictly follows a specific strategy will always be limited when applied to an individual's unique features. It's a common misconception that perfect mapping can be achieved through rigid adherence to certain ratios or measurements. In reality, these guidelines need to be adjusted to suit each person's distinct facial structure.

The ultimate goal in brow mapping is to create the most flattering brows for each client rather than trying to apply 'perfect ratios' to an imperfect face. This understanding is crucial for young artists. It shifts the focus from striving for an unattainable ideal to enhancing each client's natural beauty through tailored brow mapping. Embracing this perspective can be significantly beneficial for artists in their practice.

2. Limitations of Brow Training

In various academies offering brow training, providing a clear and easy-to-follow strategy for brow mapping is essential. This approach is crucial in training programs to prevent students from adopting unexpected and potentially inappropriate brow mapping techniques. Step-by-step mapping instructions significantly improve the learning process by guiding students through the basic principles of brow shaping.

However, many trainers often overlook explaining a critical point. This structured approach to mapping primarily aims to prevent major errors that beginners might make, but it doesn't necessarily lead to optimal results as artists advance in their careers. As a pigmentation artist develops her skills further, it becomes imperative to understand that these mapping strategies should be seen as foundational guidelines. They are crucial in helping avoid initial mistakes, but they require additional personal and individual adaptation to create the best brow shape and placement for each client.

This understanding is vital for artists seeking to elevate their craft beyond the basics taught in training. It involves a shift from strictly following set instructions to integrating personal judgment and customization, ensuring that each client receives a brow design that truly enhances their unique facial features. Let us explore now some examples of sub-optimal outcomes.

3. Alae shape and width

Consider the common practice of determining the starting lines of brows based on the "alae" (the skin flanking the nostrils). Relying solely on this non-bony nose feature for measurements often leads to suboptimal results due to the inherent variability in alae width.

Variability in alae width

Training materials frequently depict brow mapping on idealized AI-generated faces or models with noses that conform closely to aesthetic ideals, often featuring "slim" noses. However, in reality, the width of the alae can vary significantly. If the rest of the skull structure is similar, adhering rigidly to these methods can result in suboptimal brow starting and ending lines and overall brow width.

Influence of ethnicity, genetic background, and age

Scientifically, it is established that the shape and width of the alae are significantly influenced by genetic factors linked to race and ethnicity, leading to distinct nasal features among different groups. For example:

Individuals of African descent typically have wider, more flared alae, often paired with broader and shorter nasal bridges.
East Asian populations generally have less flared alae, with a flatter and wider nasal shape. Their nostrils may appear more horizontally oriented.
Caucasian individuals usually have narrower alae and a more prominent nasal bridge, with nostrils that often point downwards.

Evolutionary and Environmental Influences

The shape of the nose, including the alae, has evolved in response to environmental and climatic factors. The theory of climatic adaptation suggests the following.

Wider nostrils and alae are common in populations from warmer, more humid climates, aiding in the conditioning of larger air volumes.
Narrower nostrils are prevalent in populations from colder climates, believed to be more efficient in warming and humidifying air before it reaches the lungs.

Even within specific racial or ethnic groups, there's considerable variation due to individual genetic differences. Cultural practices and individual developmental factors, such as bone growth and cartilage development, also influence the alae's shape and size. Moreover, the proportions between the nose and the rest of the face can change with age.

Thus, the alae’s shape and width result from a complex interplay of genetic, environmental, and developmental factors, highlighting the diversity of human adaptation and evolution. This diversity necessitates a more nuanced approach to brow mapping that goes beyond standard methodologies and considers each individual's unique facial structure. Understanding these variations is crucial for achieving optimal results in brow mapping, aligning with both the science of human anatomy and the art of aesthetic enhancement.

4. Limitations of the “Golden Ratio”

The same issue can occur when using the Golden Ratio compass for brow measurements. If, for example, the client's bone structure results in the distance between the eyes being shorter than the width of one eye, then relying on the Golden Ratio would further reduce the starting distance of the brows by an additional 38.2%. While the Golden Ratio often provides excellent measurements, applying it under these conditions can produce unnatural-looking results.

Factors Influencing interpupillary distance and eye width

Genetics is the most fundamental factor influencing eye distance (interpupillary distance) and eye width. These traits are inherited and can vary significantly between individuals and across populations.

Different ethnic and racial groups often have characteristic skull and facial structures. For example, certain populations may have wider-set eyes, while others may have narrower spacing. This is tied to broader patterns of genetic variation and adaptation over generations.

Correlation Between Eye Width and Distance

Additionally, the idea of an "ideal" distance between the eyes being equal to the width of one eye is more a guideline in art and aesthetics rather than a strict anatomical rule.

In reality, the eye width doesn't always correlate directly with the distance between the eyes. People can have wide eyes with a relatively narrow interpupillary distance or vice versa. Even within the same ethnic or racial group, there's considerable variation in eye width and the distance between the eyes.

Skull Structure and Eye Socket Placement

The eye sockets (orbits) placement in the skull significantly influences the distance between the eyes. This is affected by the following.

Skull Shape and Size. The overall shape and size of the skull determine the positioning of the orbits. For instance, a broader skull might have more widely spaced orbits.
Orbital Bone Development. The development of the bones surrounding the eye sockets during growth and development can influence the eyes' size and position.
Evolutionary Adaptations. Over time, human skull structures have adapted to various environmental and climatic conditions. These adaptations can influence the positioning and size of the eye sockets. Thus, the eye socket and eye placement can differ for people from different geographical locations.
Facial Asymmetry. No human face is perfectly symmetrical, and slight asymmetries in skull structure can lead to variations in eye placement.

External Influences on Skull Features

Nutrition and Health. Factors like nutrition, health, and environmental conditions during developmental years can influence skull development, affecting facial features and eye placement.
Age-Related Changes. As individuals age, changes in bone density and facial muscles can subtly alter facial structure, including the area around the eyes.

Therefore, the distance between the eyes and the width of an eye is determined by a complex interplay of genetic, developmental, environmental, and possibly cultural factors. These features are a part of the diverse tapestry of human facial anatomy, varying widely across individuals and populations. Understanding these variations is essential in fields like anthropology and medicine, where facial anatomy is not only a matter of identity but also can have clinical significance.

Those individual features often play an important role in that “blindly” mapping the brows starting lines with the golden ratio tool leads to aesthetically sub-optimal results.

Another comparable situation occurs when determining the length of the brow. Suppose the measurement is taken by drawing a line from the alae's outer edge to the eye's end. In that case, two significant variables can significantly influence the outcome: the nose's shape and the face's overall width. Rigidly adhering to this method can result in individuals with a broader nose and a longer, oval-shaped face having eyebrows that are too short. Conversely, people with narrow noses and a rounder, wider, or heart-shaped face could have too wide brows.

"Cookie-Cutter" Brow Stencils

In this article, we shall not delve into pre-shaped brow stencils placed on top of the client's brow area to draw an outline due to their lack of viability.

Artists who use brow stencils with a predetermined "cookie-cutter" shape do a disservice to themselves and their clients. These stencils embody an approach that almost always leads to inaccurate results. The likelihood that a one-size-fits-all stencil will perfectly match a specific face is extremely low, akin to winning a lottery. This is particularly true for clients whose facial proportions or shapes differ from what is considered aesthetically perfect symmetry.

5. Advanced Brow Shaping

Skull and Bone Structure vs. Surface of the Face

Experienced artists suggest that a more holistic approach to brow mapping is necessary for achieving the best individual results. The cornerstone of these advanced techniques is to focus on the underlying skull and hard bone structure rather than the superficial layers of the face (perspective notably includes considering elements like the “ala” - the lateral outer side of the nostrils).

Do not rely solely on the brow hair you see

Another area where approaches can vary significantly concerns the existing brow hair and even the client's makeup style. The basic rule here is straightforward: the further you move away from the skull's actual structure, the more the outcome can be influenced by the individual's actions and habits. For instance, if someone has been tweezing and plucking their brow hair according to specific standards for an extended period, it could lead to significant changes in natural hair growth patterns. Relying on such visual cues will always yield less than optimal results.

Thus, although it might sound a bit unsettling to some, a skilled artist should be capable of visualizing the client's face - particularly the eye area- without the skin covering it. This allows for a deeper understanding of the bone structure and shape of the skull, ultimately leading to more accurate and personalized brow mapping.

Eye Sockets and the Orbital Bone

The skull's eye sockets and orbital bones considerably influence the face's perceived beauty and youthful look. This should be considered alongside the shape of the forehead bone. According to many aesthetic surgeons, there are generally three objectives that Powder Brows shaping and mapping can achieve:

Optimizing the distance between the eyes
Shortening a too-long and prominent forehead bone,
Making the eyes appear larger.

Let's explore how to accomplish these three goals through advanced mapping techniques.

It's important to note that while changes can be made, they should not result in an overly dramatic transformation that appears unnatural. Often, simply avoiding making the face appear worse is a significant step in the right direction.

6. Distance Between the Eyes

The length of the eyebrows, particularly the starting line, can significantly influence the perceived distance between the eyes. The general rule is to identify whether there is a considerable deviation from the ideal proportions. A larger horizontal distance between the orbital bones of the eye sockets, along with a flatter shape of the eye sockets, can result in the tear channels appearing farther apart than the width of one eye. Using the golden ratio method can help bring the eyes closer together in such instances. This technique sets the distance of the brow beginning at 38.2% shorter than the distance between the tear channels.

Conversely, it becomes problematic when the horizontal distance between the tear channels is smaller than the width of one eye. In these situations, further reducing the distance between the starting lines of the brows can lead to a less-than-ideal aesthetic outcome.

Conclusion: avoiding using the golden ratio to reduce the distance is crucial in such cases. In some scenarios, aligning the brows's starting lines with the tear channels' vertical starting points may be the best approach.

Therefore, when the distance between the eyes is short (less than the width of an eye), it is dangerous to use the Golden Ratio approach, and the actual distance of the brow beginning lines should not differ by 38.2% but rather by 20-0%. In this sense, the golden ratio represents the maximal proportional difference that is viable in case eyes have perfect distance or are wider apart.

7. “Decreasing” forehead height

Reevaluating forehead proportions in facial aesthetics

When addressing facial aesthetics, particularly in the context of forehead proportions, it is imperative to go beyond superficial assessments like the hairline. While the hairline is a visually prominent feature, its position is not solely dictated by the underlying bone structure; personal grooming choices, such as hair styling, can significantly influence it. Relying exclusively on the hairline for brow shaping might inadvertently lead to compounded inaccuracies. This is because the hairline may already represent a stylistic modification of the natural forehead contour, and using it as a baseline for further aesthetic corrections can introduce a cascading effect of errors.

Influence of brow morphology on perceived forehead height

In facial aesthetics, the configuration and volume of the eyebrows play a pivotal role in altering the perceived dimensions of the forehead. Specifically, eyebrows that are sculpted into an angular shape with an elevated arch can optically diminish the forehead's height. This phenomenon underpins the effectiveness of certain brow styles, such as the Soft Powder Brows or Soft Ombré Brows, which create the illusion of a more compact forehead with their pronounced and dense appearance. Therefore, when you have “more vertical space to fill,” do not be afraid to use an angular and thicker brow shape.

Perceptual dynamics in facial analysis

The impact of eyebrow architecture on the perception of forehead size is rooted in how the human eye interprets spatial relationships on the face. Well-defined, robust eyebrows can draw focal attention and, by occupying vertical space, modify the perceived distance between the upper margin of the orbit (eye socket) and the cranial vertex (top of the skull). In the domain of aesthetic surgery, it is well understood that even minute alterations on the millimeter scale can substantially affect facial harmony. This principle is notably applicable to the lower arch of the eyebrow. By straightening or accentuating this arch, thereby enhancing the brow's overall prominence, the perceived vertical expanse of the forehead can be reduced.

Caution when making too thin brows

Conversely, failing to recognize and apply these principles judiciously can lead to unfavorable outcomes. If the brow shaping strategy inadvertently elongates the vertical reach of the eyebrows, it can undesirably extend the perceived height of the forehead, disrupting the facial balance. In simple terms, creating thin, curvy eyebrows to heigh the forehead can lead to an optical illusion that further accentuates the height of the forehead. This results in a disruption of facial harmony.

8. Making Eyes Appear Larger

Avoid over-lifting the brow

Fresh artists often think that lifting the brow will make the eyes look bigger. While it's true that bigger eyes are often seen as more attractive, lifting the brows too high can actually make the eyes look smaller.

Lower eyebrows and larger eyes

Positioning the eyebrows lower (closer to the eyes) makes the eyes appear larger, whereas higher eyebrows (further from the eyes) make the eyes appear smaller. This suggests a significant impact of eyebrow positioning on the perceived size of the eyes.

Eyebrow Position on eye inclination perception

Another aspect that you can consider is related to the eyebrows' inclination and the eye shape's perception. Namely, the inclination of the eyebrows influences the eye's perceived inclination. Eyes are perceived to be somewhat inclined in the same direction as the eyebrows.

Therefore, often, you can “lift” the eyes by lifting the tail section of the eyebrows a little. Many artists have claimed that this strategy works when you lift the upper edge of the Powder Brow away from the area of natural hair growth. This can be a tough decision, especially if the client has sparse brow hair and may lose more in the tail section. However, if the mapping is accurate and the artist has sketched and colored the brow in advance, discussing this option with the client is essential. The results often exceed client expectations and are well worth it.

Mind the Length Relative to Orbital Bone

As for brow length, if the artist opts for a thicker shape, it shouldn't be too short. It's usually best to base the length on the skull shape, specifically the outer edge of the orbital bone. You can feel this edge as a ridge under the skin near the temples. If the brows end significantly before this point, it won't help make the eyes look bigger.

9. Additional observations

The impact of brow ridge

When addressing facial aesthetics, it is crucial to consider the brow ridge's impact. This bony prominence above the eyes is often more pronounced in men due to higher testosterone levels while typically less prominent in women. In female aesthetic enhancements, the objective often includes making the brow ridge appear less pronounced.

To achieve this, it's advisable to avoid shaping the eyebrows in a manner that directly follows the natural line of the brow ridge. Straight and overly angular brows can unintentionally accentuate the ridge, potentially imparting a more serious or stern expression to the face. Instead, a more softened or curved brow shape can help subtly downplay the brow ridge's prominence.

Eyebrow shape and jawline

Subtle modifications in eyebrow shape can have a pronounced impact on the perception of the entire facial structure, including the jawline. For clients with a rounded jaw and overall facial roundness, it's generally preferable to avoid eyebrow shapes with soft arches that could enhance the roundness. Instead, opting for more angular brow shapes, such as those achieved with Soft Powder Brows, can provide a visual counterbalance, creating an illusion of a more defined facial structure.

Conversely, softer and potentially thinner brow arches can offer a balancing effect for faces with a narrow structure and a sharper, more triangular jawline. These shapes can soften the angularity of the face, contributing to a more balanced and harmonious facial appearance.

Embracing a Holistic Approach

The key takeaway is the importance of adopting a holistic approach to facial pigmentation. Rather than focusing solely on individual features such as eyebrows, lips, or eyeliner, it's essential to consider how changes in one area affect the overall facial harmony. Each facial feature contributes to the overall aesthetic, and adjustments in one area should be made with an understanding of how they interact with and impact the rest of the face. A comprehensive evaluation of all facial nuances and characteristics is crucial before implementing specific aesthetic changes, ensuring the most harmonious and balanced outcome.

10. Conclusions

When starting, many new artists rely on traditional mapping techniques taught by their trainers. However, seasoned professionals tend to tailor their approach based on the unique features of each client's face. This adaptability is crucial because traditional mapping can produce less-than-ideal results when dealing with atypical facial characteristics. In professional brow mapping, the focus is often on "seeing beneath the surface”- that is, analyzing the underlying bone structure rather than just the nose shape or hair pattern.

Concerning the bone structure and eyebrows, three main goals stand out:
Preventing eyes from appearing either too close together or too far apart.
Minimizing the prominence of the forehead bone. Making the eyes look larger.

To achieve these objectives, here are some specific guidelines.

Eye distance. If the client's eyes are close together, be cautious about the starting point of the brows. Relying solely on standard measurements, such as the Golden Ratio tool, could make the eyes appear even closer. If the eyes are further apart, the proportionate distance of brows can be 38.2% shorter, but that is not the case with eyes close to each other. Then, the correct proportional difference is between 20% to zero.
Forehead height. Every forehead has its unique curvature and height; thus, when mapping browse, do not rely on the hairline but the skull's bone structure. To make your forehead perceptually shorter, use angular, thick brows, and avoid thin, long, and curvy brows.
Larger Eyes. To naturally enhance the eyes, make the brows closer to the eyes. Additonally, keep in mind that you can elevate the perception of the eye inclination with the eyebrows. Therefore, raise the tails to lift the glance and make the eye appearance less “sad.”

Other aspects to consider

Counterbalance the Brow Ridge. View the brow mapping from a side angle and assess the prominence of the brow ridge. Aim for an upper arch shape that complements the brow ridge.

Balance with Jawbone. For round or wide faces, lean towards straighter, angular brow shapes. For sharper or triangular jawlines, softer brow shapes are more appropriate.

The ultimate goal is to adopt a holistic approach that views the face as a complete unit, making adjustments that harmonize with the overall structure rather than focusing on isolated features.