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1. Background

In preparing this article, we gathered insights from interviews with 54 highly successful pigmentation artists. These artists represent the top 19% of earners in their respective regions. Among them, 36 are based in European Union countries, 11 in the UK, and seven in the US. Each of these artists boasts over four years of experience in their field. A notable aspect of their careers is that all have engaged in microblading at some point, in addition to other techniques. Specifically, 46 of these artists also specialize in creating powder brows. The interviews for this article were conducted between 2021 and 2023, and the research projects related to the interviewees are ongoing, reflecting the latest trends and progressions in the field of pigmentation artistry.

This article aims to examine the career progression of accomplished pigmentation artists and understand the key decisions they've made to align with market demands and stay ahead in the ever-evolving pigmentation industry. Our analysis spans from 2017 to 2022, providing a comprehensive overview of trends and developments over these years. We then narrowed our focus to the period between 2022 and 2023, offering insights into the emerging trends and potential future directions in this dynamic field. This exploration aims to shed light on the strategies and adaptations that have contributed to the success of these artists, offering valuable lessons and forecasts for the industry's trajectory.

2. Microblading

Excellent Within Its Limits

Microblading remains a popular initial choice for many artists entering the world of semi-permanent pigmentation. This preference stems from three main reasons identified through interviews with leading artists and additional research: universality, simplicity, and profitability. Let's examine each of these reasons in more detail.

Universality

Microblading is suitable for a wide range of clients. While most clients can undergo the procedure, the quality of results can vary. The outcomes are exceptional for some clients, with the stroke pattern remaining crisp and distinct. However, for many clients, the strokes may eventually blend into a uniform shade of pigmentation, still maintaining the intended brow shape.

This fading is not necessarily a reflection of the artist's skill but is influenced by various factors. These include the client's skin properties, like oiliness and pore size, post-procedure care related to the client's lifestyle, and the type of pigment used. Therefore, while many clients receive eyebrows that retain the intended shape, the initial stroke pattern may not always be preserved. Despite this, most clients accept this as a natural outcome based on their individual characteristics. Thus, the universality of microblading lies in its broad applicability to a vast majority of clients without significant risks, even though the quality of results might differ and, for many, the pattern may transform into a shaded area over time.

The universality of microblading also extends to artists. It is an accessible field for beauticians from various backgrounds and individuals with no prior experience in brow pigmentation. There are no specific educational or knowledge prerequisites required to learn microblading. This is reflected in the structure of most microblading courses, whether online, offline, or blended. These courses typically include a step-by-step methodology for learning to map the brows, select their correct location, and create the desired shape and pattern. This structured approach makes microblading courses universally accessible, allowing a wide range of individuals to enter this field.

Simplicity

The simplicity of learning microblading does not imply that the procedure is easy to perform right from the start. Rather, it means that mastering this skill does not require extensive creativity, novel approaches, or significant artistic choices. Success in microblading is typically achieved by meticulously following the procedure's steps, focusing on each stage one at a time.

Many professional artists and trainers have highlighted the value of this simplicity. It creates an environment where almost anyone dedicated to learning the craft can succeed by adhering to the guidelines and concentrating on improving the most challenging aspects. This structured approach makes microblading an accessible skill for many learners.

Furthermore, the simplicity of microblading is also a factor in how it is presented to potential clients. Clients often opt for microblading based on impressive transformation photos, usually showcasing results on dry skin and free of complications. This portrayal has made microblading a highly attractive option for those seeking their first semi-permanent pigmentation procedure. Another aspect of its simplicity is related to the fading process of the brows. Microblading is commonly advertised as a solution that lasts for "around one year," with brows gradually fading away. This is generally true, especially for initial procedures and touch-ups conducted with the right pigments and by skilled artists, though it might vary in the case of continuous retouching cycles.

Cost advantage

Microblading offers a significant cost advantage, which is a major factor in its popularity. The initial investment required to start practicing microblading is remarkably low. Most of the essential tools and supplies needed can be purchased with the revenue from just one procedure, making it financially accessible for many aspiring artists.

The low entry cost, especially regarding the investment in equipment, sets microblading apart from other pigmentation methods. When compared to other areas of pigmentation, the initial investment in microblading equipment is considerably lower. This aspect translates into a high-profit margin from the very beginning. Even when calculating conservatively, focusing solely on the direct costs associated with performing one procedure, and not considering the broader related expenses, profit margins can be impressively high.

This affordability and the potential for high returns make microblading an attractive option for those entering the semi-permanent makeup industry. It allows artists to start their practice with minimal financial risk and grow their business from the profits of their initial procedures.

3. Other techniques

Powder Brows

A significant number of artists who specialize in microblading began to recognize the inherent limitations of the technique. These limitations become particularly apparent with certain skin types and conditions. For example, artists noticed issues with pigment retention on oily and thick skin, blurring of lines, the pigment gradually fading into a shaded area, and challenges in performing the procedure over previously pigmented skin, among other concerns. In response to these challenges, many artists turned to the well-established technique of powder brows. This technique has been seen as a reliable solution to address the limitations encountered in microblading. Powder brows, known for their versatility and adaptability to different skin types and conditions, have become an increasingly popular choice for artists seeking to expand their skills and offer their clients a broader range of services.

Combo Brows

The adoption of powder brows provided a solution for clients with challenging skin conditions and opened the door for artists to blend two techniques: microblading and machine work. This innovative approach led to the creation of Combo Brows, a style that became increasingly popular from 2019 to 2022. In this method, brows initially shaped by microblading are further refined and enhanced with machine-based powdering, adding a "make-up" effect. This combination improves the overall aesthetic of the brows and enhances their longevity and retention.

Bulletproof Service Matrix

The machine's proficiency has enabled artists to offer a more robust and versatile range of services, effectively creating a "bulletproof" service matrix for clients. This approach includes:

Microblading: Ideal for clients with dry skin who prefer a natural "hairstrokes" look.
Powder Brows: Suited for clients with oilier, thicker skin or those with heavy previous pigmentation, offering a more filled-in appearance.
Combo Brows: A perfect option for clients who have had microblading or considered trying it but desire an "enhanced" version of their brows, combining the natural look of microblading with the definition and some depth of powder brows.

This diversified service offering allows artists to cater to a wider range of client preferences and skin types, enhancing their ability to meet individual client needs while staying on top of industry trends. This versatility in skill and technique is crucial for artists aiming to establish a strong and resilient presence in the competitive field of semi-permanent makeup.

Soft Powder Brows

Another evolution in the world of semi-permanent makeup is the emergence of a softer approach to creating powder brows, known as Soft Powder Brows, Soft Brows, or Soft Ombre Brows. This style is characterized by a lighter, more gradual gradient, especially noticeable on the upper side of the brows. For many newcomers to the permanent makeup industry, mastering Soft Powder Brows has become a popular trend to embrace. The training programs for this technique often provide simplified yet effective methods for mapping and creating these brows. Importantly, these programs are accessible even to those who may not have extensive knowledge of other pigmentation styles, making it an attractive entry point for new artists.

The growing popularity of powder brows, including the soft variant, has allowed artists to diversify their service offerings. It allowed them to attract new customers and also transition some of their existing microblading clients, particularly those experiencing issues with the sharpness of lines, to powder brows. Equipped with these skills, artists can cater to a broad spectrum of client needs. They can offer various services and select the most suitable option for each client based on individual preferences and skin properties. This adaptability and ability to offer personalized solutions are key factors in the success and sustainability of artists in the dynamic field of permanent makeup.

4. Present Day

The developments in the field of semi-permanent makeup, particularly with techniques like microblading and powder brows, have been remarkable. However, this rapid progress has not been without its challenges. During this period of growth, many artists have capitalized on the high demand for these services. They've often led clients to the best options, leveraging their expertise and knowledge. This role of being solution providers and problem solvers led some artists to develop a somewhat overconfident perspective, believing they always knew what was best for the client. This attitude, in turn, encouraged some to choose their clientele and progressively increase their service fees selectively.

Sobering Turn

A significant shift occurred in 2020 with the onset of the COVID-19 pandemic. Initially, this global crisis jolted many service providers, including those in the semi-permanent makeup industry. However, the economic response to the pandemic, particularly the extensive financial stimulus from the US and the EU, mitigated some of the immediate impacts on the industry. Yet, a gradual change began to unfold among clients. There was a growing sense of sobriety and disillusionment. Clients became more discerning and cautious, reevaluating their choices and the value they received from such services. This shift in client attitudes and perceptions required artists to adapt and reconsider their approach. It highlighted the need for artists to stay attuned to client needs and market dynamics, ensuring their services remain relevant, client-focused, and appropriately priced in a rapidly evolving industry.

During the past three years, and more notably in the latter half, the field of semi-permanent pigmentation has experienced steady growth. However, this growth has been more in terms of clients' awareness and their critical evaluation of the procedures rather than in sales of pigmentation services. Increasingly, clients are becoming educated about how healed brows look, understanding issues like line blurring and color changes to blue, gray, or red hues. We've covered these topics in depth on the powderbrows.com platform, and aspiring artists must study these analyses carefully.

Oversaturation

Currently, the market for semi-permanent pigmentation faces oversaturation, leading many artists to a competitive struggle with decreasing prices. This "race to the bottom" in pricing has highlighted the importance of brand-building for artists. Those who have focused on establishing their brand rather than solely on service provision have managed to stand out and maintain their pricing better.

However, this situation merely acknowledges a market reality without offering much insight into future trends in brow techniques and styles. One key takeaway is that any new brow creation solutions that aim to gain popularity must have distinct differentiating factors. These features need to be recognizable and valued by customers, setting them apart in a crowded and competitive market. This understanding is crucial for artists who want to survive and thrive in the dynamic and ever-evolving world of semi-permanent makeup.

5. Transformations

The Revolution of Knowledge

Looking forward, it's crucial to recognize the significant shifts in expertise and understanding within the field of semi-permanent makeup. This can be described as a revolution in the power of true knowledge. Over the past couple of years, both clients and artists have deepened their understanding. They've realized that even the most acclaimed teachers, though more knowledgeable than initially thought, still have limitations in their expertise.

This growing awareness has brought to light the considerable flaws in existing techniques. For instance, with microblading, there's a recognized challenge in maintaining the sharpness of brows in a perpetual retouching cycle. Typically, after one and a half to two years, keeping microbladed brows sharp becomes increasingly difficult. If organic-based pigments have been used, the skin might become saturated with carbon, leading to a grayish appearance. Alternatively, using medium-quality inorganic pigments can result in a constant reddish hue. This is often due to the transformation of iron oxides' oxidation levels, interacting with ferritins in the skin.

Such revelations have led to a heightened demand for deeper, more comprehensive knowledge and more innovative solutions in the industry. Both clients and artists are looking for techniques that address these issues effectively, signaling a shift towards more sophisticated and advanced approaches in semi-permanent makeup. This evolving landscape underscores the need for ongoing research, development, and education in the field to meet these emerging challenges and expectations.

Coming to Terms with Reality

In the realm of powder brows, both clients and artists are increasingly recognizing certain realities about this technique. The pixelated look, characteristic of powder brows, whether soft or classic, is found to be effective only on specific skin types. Many powder brow treatments, over time, tend to blend into a uniform shaded area, similar to the effect seen in microblading. This convergence of results has reached a point where, after several years of retouches, even experienced artists might struggle to identify the original technique used on a client’s brows.

An additional challenge with powder brows is the need for artists to guide clients away from expecting a pattern that mimics natural brow hair. While not every client desires a patterned look, numerous tests involving hundreds of clients have revealed an interesting trend. When given a choice, most clients instinctively prefer a technique incorporating defined lines instead of plain shading. This preference underscores a gap between client expectations and achievable outcomes with techniques like powder brows.

6. The Future

The key to owning the future in the semi-permanent makeup industry lies in adopting a holistic approach toward customer focus and understanding. It's no longer about promoting a single solution an artist is proficient in, highlighting its advantages while downplaying its limitations.

As of 2023, there's a noticeable increase in the popularity of the Hairstrokes technique – a style where the brow pattern is entirely created using a machine. This shift acknowledges the growing demand for a semi-permanent brow solution that combines the best attributes of existing techniques: the natural appearance of microblading, the longevity of powder brows, and the distinctive look of combo brows. However, achieving this synthesis poses significant challenges in the realms of chemistry, physics, biology, and psychology.

The future will likely belong to those who can create Hairstrokes that look natural, don't blur, and don't change color undesirably while also supporting a Perpetual Retouching Cycle (PRC).

At powderbrows.com, our ongoing dialogue with numerous artists suggests that such a solution may indeed be feasible, albeit with some innovative modifications. The key appears to be advancing the microblading pattern to a level where it allows for a perpetual retouching cycle. This involves modifying the technique to implant lines using a machine in a Hairstrokes style, which accommodates line intersections, varied gradients within lines, and effective pigment implantation with minimal skin damage across different skin types.

As the industry continues to evolve, staying at the forefront of these developments will be crucial for artists. The ability to adapt and innovate while keeping customer preferences and skin health in mind will define the leaders in the field of semi-permanent makeup. We do not doubt that those advancements in the field of Hairstrokes will be seen soon.

7. Conclusions

The evolution of semi-permanent makeup, especially since the rise of microblading from 2014 to 2016, demonstrates significant growth and change. Microblading gained popularity for its universality, simplicity, and profitability, despite varying results based on factors like skin type and aftercare. Its financial accessibility and structured training courses made it an attractive entry point for artists.

However, limitations in microblading, particularly for certain skin types, led artists to explore powder brows and combo brows techniques, enhancing their service range to cater to diverse client needs. The introduction of soft powder brows further expanded these options, appealing to those seeking a more natural gradient effect.
The COVID-19 pandemic in 2020 prompted a shift in client expectations and artists' approaches, emphasizing the need for a more client-focused service. Increased client awareness and a saturated market have driven artists to differentiate their services and build personal brands.

Looking ahead, the future of semi-permanent makeup relies on innovative solutions that address issues like fading and color changes. The Hairstrokes technique, blending the natural look of microblading with the durability of powder brows, is gaining popularity. Success will belong to those who innovate and adapt, creating techniques that offer natural appearance, durability, and accommodate a Perpetual Retouching Cycle (PRC). As the industry evolves, artists must remain informed and adaptable to thrive in this dynamic field.