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Microblading vs. Hairstrokes: Understanding the Core Difference

Dec 12, 2023, Update: Dec 13, 2023, author: Powderbrows.com / Holistic PMU
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"In the world of PMU, the debate between microblading and hairstrokes has captured the attention of artists and clients alike on the verge of 2024. This article explores the core differences between these popular procedures, as shared by experienced practitioners in the field. Understand the fundamental distinctions that set these techniques apart and how they influence every aspect of the outcomes."

1. Background


Insights from Experienced Artists

  This article is based on insights from 44 skilled pigmentation artists who have recently added the Hairstrokes technique to their repertoire. Among these, 37 have extensive experience in microblading and powder brows, while seven specialize solely in microblading. All participants are seasoned professionals with over four years in the field and are recognized as top regional earners.

Universal Consensus Across Regions

Our contributors come from diverse locations - 35 from the E.U., six from the U.K., and three from the U.S. Despite their varied backgrounds, their tactical and strategic insights into these techniques were remarkably consistent, indicating a globally shared understanding of these styles.

Focus on Technique Differences

The primary aim of this article is to delineate the differences between the Hairstrokes and Microblading techniques. We will mainly focus on the methods of pigment implantation, as this is where the core differences between the two techniques lie.

2. Hairstrokes and Microblading


Hairstrokes Technique

The Hairstrokes technique is a method of creating a brow pattern using a pigmentation machine. This technique is focused on achieving a natural look for the entire brow. The aim is not to replicate individual hairs but to create a natural and cohesive pattern across the brow.

Microblading Technique

In contrast, microblading involves using a specialized blade comprised of a row of thin, sharp needles. This blade makes fine cuts in the skin, mimicking the appearance of individual brow hairs. Microblading focuses on the precision and realism of each hair-like stroke.

The root of the Differences

To fully grasp the fundamental differences between Hairstrokes and Microblading, it's essential to understand their core techniques. Hairstrokes are about creating an overall natural brow look using a machine, while microblading focuses on developing individual hair-like lines through a manual cutting process. This difference in approach and tool usage sets these two popular brow artistry techniques apart.

Multiple Secondary Differences

Discussions about Hairstrokes and Microblading often focus on their visual aspects. These include differences in pattern density, line direction and length, color variations, and the uniqueness of each artist's signature style.

Additional Considerations

Other standard comparison topics include the longevity of the results (retention), the appearance of the brows after healing, the reasons behind the uneven fading of the strokes, and the number of effective retouches possible before the strokes blur. These factors are important but secondary to the primary difference between the two techniques.

The Primary Difference -  Implantation Method

The most significant distinction between Hairstrokes and Microblading lies in the method used to implant pigment into the skin. This core difference fundamentally influences all the secondary aspects mentioned above. The next part of this article will delve deeper into the implantation methods of each technique, providing a clearer understanding of why these secondary differences arise.

3. Microblading: Opening Skin (blade)


Technique and Impact on the Skin

Microblading is a method where a blade with a sharp needle creates linear cuts in the skin. These cuts penetrate through the epidermis and into the upper dermis. Unlike the puncture made by a machine needle, microblading cuts are longer and expose a larger skin surface area.

Implications for Collagen and Healing

This technique disrupts the collagen network more extensively due to the size of the wounds. As the body heals these linear wounds, fibroblasts produce new collagen. However, this newly formed collagen can be disorganized and denser than the original, potentially leading to scar tissue formation.

Considerations of Depth and Healing

The depth of the cut made during microblading can vary significantly because it is manually applied. This inconsistency can lead to uneven healing and a higher risk of scarring. The healing process in microblading is thus more complex due to the more extensive wounds and the potential for more significant disruption in the skin's natural collagen structure.

4. Hairstrokes: Piercing skin (needle)


Methodology and Skin Interaction

The Hairstrokes technique uses a pigmentation machine with a needle, typically measuring between 0.25-0.35 mm in diameter. This needle rapidly moves up and down, piercing the skin to deposit pigment at a depth similar to microblading. However, the wounds created by this machine are more minor in diameter and thus heal more quickly than those made by microblading.

Impact on Collagen and Healing Process

Due to their smaller size, these puncture wounds cause less disruption to the collagen network. The healing process for these wounds is quicker because there's a more minor need for regeneration. As each puncture is more localized, it leads to less widespread damage to the skin's collagen fibers. Consequently, the skin's healing process is more effective in restoring the original collagen structure, minimizing the risk of scar tissue formation.

Differences of Machine Needle

Using machine needles in the Hairstrokes technique allows for more consistent control over the depth of pigment implantation. This consistency plays a crucial role in ensuring uniform healing across the treated area and further reduces the likelihood of scarring, making it a preferable method for many professionals.

5. Wound Mechanics and Healing


Microblading: Increased Risk of Collagen Damage

Microblading involves creating more extensive, linear wounds with a blade. These cuts disrupt more collagen fibers due to their size and shape. The healing process for such wounds is more complex: the new collagen that forms can be denser and less organized compared to the original collagen network. This disorganization increases the chances of scar tissue development. Additionally, the more extensive wounds from microblading tend to heal slower and have a higher likelihood of micro-scarring.

Hairstrokes: Lesser Collagen Disruption and Faster Healing

In contrast, the Hairstrokes technique uses a machine with fine needles to create more minor, localized puncture wounds. These wounds are less disruptive to the collagen network because of their size and the way they're made. The healing process for these punctures is generally quicker and more straightforward. The skin can more easily restore its original collagen structure, reducing the risk of scar formation. The consistent depth control offered by machine needles also contributes to more uniform healing, minimizing the likelihood of scarring.

6. Effects of core difference


Wide-Ranging Effects of the fundamental difference

The primary difference in pigment implantation between Microblading and Hairstrokes is not just a procedural variance; it's the basis for all other distinctions between these two techniques. This core difference stems from physical and biological factors and, in turn, influences each method's psychological and chemical aspects.

Understanding the Core Leads to Clarity

Grasping this fundamental difference in how the pigment is implanted into the skin makes it easier to understand the myriad other differences between Microblading and Hairstrokes. Each technique's physical and biological basis lays the groundwork for its unique characteristics and limitations.

Illustrating the Concept with Examples

To better understand the impact of this core difference, we will explore some commonly discussed distinctions between Microblading and Hairstrokes. These examples will illustrate how the primary method of pigment implantation shapes every other aspect of these popular brow artistry techniques.

7. Distinctive Patterns


Microblading Patterns and Their Limitations

In microblading, the goal is often to mimic natural hair growth, but with certain constraints. The technique enables the creation of lines that merge but cannot intersect. This limitation arises because intersecting linear wounds typically lead to issues such as micro-migration or unpredictable pigment deposition. Consequently, microblading patterns are restricted to non-crossing lines, which can be seen as a limitation in terms of design flexibility.

Hairstrokes Patterns – Artistic Freedom

On the other hand, Hairstrokes, with its artistic heritage, does not strictly aim for single-stroke naturalism. Instead, the technique often employs strokes longer than natural brow hairs. While this characteristic may make Hairstrokes distinguishable from natural brows at close range, it also contributes to the technique's consistent pattern retention. The freedom to create overlapping strokes in Hairstrokes offers a broader artistic palette, allowing for more complex and varied designs.

Core Difference Influencing Pattern Style

Microblading and Hairstrokes have distinct pattern styles, primarily influenced by their core implantation methods. The physical limitations of microblading lead to a particular pattern style, while the artistic approach of Hairstrokes allows for more varied and overlapping designs. Understanding this fundamental difference helps in appreciating the unique characteristics of each technique.

8. Creating Gradients


Microblading's Limitation in Gradients

In microblading, achieving gradients, especially those that last beyond the healing period, is not feasible. Some experienced artists, particularly those affiliated with microblading academies, have attempted to create gradients. Techniques like multiple passes over the same line or rubbing pigment onto brow sections have been experimented with. However, empirical evidence suggests that such methods do not yield sustainable or predictable results. While these techniques might create immediate post-procedure visual effects suitable for social media, they are not reliable for the average artist learning microblading.

Inability to Achieve Line Gradients

Furthermore, due to its implantation method, microblading cannot produce a gradient effect within a single line. This limitation is a direct result of the technique's physical mechanics. While the absence of gradients within microblading lines may not significantly impact the overall aesthetic, many artists agree that it is a crucial element for the Hairstrokes technique.

Importance of Gradients in Hairstrokes

In Hairstrokes, the use of longer, more artistic lines allows for the creation of nuanced gradients. These gradients add to the aesthetic beauty and realism of the overall brow look. Incorporating gradients within Hairstrokes lines is a significant advantage, enhancing the technique's artistic potential and broad appeal.

9. Pattern Retention


Retention Beyond Implantation Method

Retention of Microblading and Hairstrokes is influenced by multiple factors, not just the implantation method. A comprehensive analysis includes considering chemical, biological, and psychological aspects. The key to long-lasting patterns lies in the optimal use of pigments, minimal skin damage, and allowing sufficient healing time for the collagen network.

Ideal Conditions for Pattern Retention

Under ideal conditions - using mineral pigments conducive to bodily removal and minimizing skin damage - both techniques can maintain patterns close to their original appearance. However, the inherent differences in the techniques become crucial in determining how long these patterns last.

Microblading Pattern Retention

In Microblading, professional application, particularly on dry skin, can result in sharp and crisp patterns. Empirical evidence suggests that these patterns maintain clarity for about 3-5 retouching cycles. Eventually, issues such as collagen network damage and skin saturation with colorants, especially when using organic or hybrid pigments, limit pattern longevity.

Hairstrokes and the Perpetual Retouching Cycle (PRC)

Hairstrokes patterns, characterized by their more artistic style, can sustain their sharpness for more retouching cycles. This longer retention is attributed to the technique's gentler implantation method. When using mineral pigments to address chemical concerns, Hairstrokes can potentially achieve a Perpetual Retouching Cycle (PRC), allowing for more sustained pattern sharpness over time.

10. Ease of Learning


Microblading: A More Predictable Learning Curve

Microblading is often seen as more straightforward to learn due to its more predictable nature. The technique requires less creative input, making the learning process more mechanical. This attribute has been a critical factor in the thriving business models of many microblading academies. Learning microblading typically involves following a specific mapping, drawing, and implantation sequence. The results are pretty predictable if these tasks are performed correctly and in order. With enough practice, most artists can master this sequence, making microblading relatively more straightforward, though it still requires dedication and skill.

Hairstrokes: Greater Complexity and Creativity

On the other hand, learning Hairstrokes presents a more complex challenge. The technique involves an additional medium – the pigmentation machine – between the artist's hand and the skin. This means an artist must first become proficient with the machine before mastering the specific nuances of Hairstrokes patterns and technique. This adds a layer of complexity to the learning process. Creating Hairstrokes patterns requires more creativity and leaves more room for error. Correcting mistakes can be significantly more challenging when deviating from standard patterns.

Impact of Core Differences in Techniques

This variance in learning complexity between Microblading and Hairstrokes directly results from their core differences in implantation methods. Microblading, with its fewer nuanced micro-skills required for the procedure, is generally easier for beginners to grasp. In contrast, Hairstrokes demand mastery of additional skills and artistic judgment, making its learning curve steeper for those new to pigmentation techniques.

11. Commercial Potential


Current Market Trends

While Microblading currently dominates search engine queries, hashtags, and overall online engagement, this doesn't directly translate to its commercial success in local markets. The true potential for commercial success in beauty services often lies in understanding and adapting to rapid global market transformations.

Strategic Market Shifts and Trend Adoption

Historical trends in the beauty industry show that market transformations often occur faster in regions with higher living standards and quicker adoption of new trends. Notably, the U.S. and U.K. markets are trendsetters in this regard. Typically, once a new trend gains momentum in these markets, mainly starting from the East and West coasts of the U.S., it tends to spread globally. Other continents like Australia adopt these trends quickly, followed by the U.K. Once the U.K. market embraces a trend, it usually becomes a global phenomenon.

Hairstrokes Rising at the Expense of Microblading

There are strong indications that a shift from Microblading to Hairstrokes is already underway, particularly in trendsetting markets. This shift is evidenced by international academies and artists increasingly legitimizing Hairstrokes. While some attempt to demonstrate the superiority of Microblading over Hairstrokes, these efforts often seem more like tactical moves to buy time for transitioning to offering Hairstrokes services.

Therefore, the rising popularity of Hairstrokes at the expense of Microblading appears to be a part of a more significant trend in the beauty industry. Artists and academics are advised to pay close attention to these shifts, especially in key markets, to stay ahead in the competitive field of brow artistry.

12. Conclusions


Core Difference: Implantation Method

The primary distinction between Microblading and Hairstrokes lies in their respective implantation methods. Microblading involves cutting the skin with a blade, creating a linear wound that significantly disrupts the collagen network. In contrast, Hairstrokes use a pigmentation machine needle, lessening skin traumatization.

Key Differences Stemming from Implantation Method

  • Patterns. Microblading faces limitations in pattern creation, such as the inability to cross lines. Hairstrokes, with their more artistic approach, allow for intersecting lines and longer strokes, though they may appear less natural than fresh Microblading.
  • Gradients. Microbladincannotto creates sustainable and predictable gradients within a brow or a single line. Hairstrokes, on the other hand, can effectively produce gradients in specific brow sections and within individual lines.
  • Retention. Neither technique guarantees permanent pattern retention, and many factors influence this. However, under optimal conditions (minimizing factors like pigment type and skin trauma), Hairstrokes tend to have better longevity, potentially allowing for a perpetual retouching cycle. In contrast, Microblading's perpetual retouching capability is generally unattainable.
  • Learning Curve. Learning Microblading is more straightforward and predictable, focusing on mastering a sequence of tasks. Hairstrokes require learning to use a pigmentation machine and involve a more complex, nuanced learning process.
  • Commercial Success. Despite Microblading's broader online reach, its growth has plateaued in some regions. Meanwhile, Hairstrokes are gaining popularity in Western countries with higher living standards. While microblading currently dominates online engagement, local market trends may favor the rising popularity of hairstrokes.
In conclusion, while Microblading and Hairstrokes have distinct advantages and challenges, market trends indicate a shift towards the latter. Recognizing and adapting to these trends is crucial for artists and academies aiming to stay ahead in the competitive field of semi-permanent makeup.
 
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Comments
 
Sonya
Thursday, Jan 18, 2024

I have always said, that hairstrokes is the best method but also microblading will not disappear! This has gone on for 2 years now and I do both. I do what the client wants and do it professionally but I agree that it is important to be honest and clear with the client. Many just lie to defend the approach they have and dismiss all else.

Sissy
Wednesday, Jan 17, 2024

this article is interestin take and I think that there is this trend very much going on. Machine Hairstrokes is my thing and I totally agree that it is very hard to learn this, and I myself learned it for 2 years, until I master it totally.

Ava
Saturday, Dec 16, 2023

I have transitioned to hairstrokes here in the US already in summer (’23). I love it, and I totally agree with these arguments. I can say that many others have also pointed out the same things (laser removal experts, I know, etc).

Lena
Wednesday, Dec 13, 2023

I can say that here in Nizhniy Novgorod I see artists transitioning to hairstrokes because of the exact reasons mentioned here. Good article, and written so that I can understand. Thanks a lot!

Maya
Wednesday, Dec 13, 2023

An excellent article, I think. I am an artist myself, and I made my transition to Hairstrokes this year and I do not regret it. I believe microblading is on its slow, slow way out…


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