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1. Background

This article is on research conducted over four years, from 2018 to 2022, involving detailed interviews with 76 microblading artists. These professionals specialize in microblading and practice other pigmentation techniques, such as powder brows. This diverse group of artists, with 56 from the European Union, 12 from the United Kingdom, and eight from the United States, provided a wealth of insights into the nuances of semi-permanent makeup techniques.

Despite the geographical diversity of the participants, there were no significant differences in their experiences and observations based on location. This consistency across various regions underscores the universal nature of the findings and practices in the field of semi-permanent makeup.

To ensure the scientific validity and accuracy of the conclusions drawn from these interviews, we engaged with two dermatologists and a specialist in cellular biology. Their expertise was instrumental in evaluating the consensus among artists, particularly regarding the lifecycle and effectiveness of microblading as a semi-permanent solution.

The primary goal of this article is to demystify the lifecycle of the microblading procedure within the broader context of semi-permanent makeup. By doing so, we aim to provide a comprehensive understanding of this popular cosmetic technique, addressing its long-term viability and effectiveness for clients seeking to enhance their eyebrows. This exploration is not only an academic exercise but a practical guide for practitioners and clients in cosmetic enhancement.

2. Understanding Microblading depth

Contextual Understanding of Microblading

There is a statement often used by microblading artists, making the following claim (in various phrasings): “Microblading is done in between the dermis and epidermis, into the basal membrane.” From the scientific perspective, this claim is utter nonsense and absolutely implausible, demonstrating the monumental ignorance of artists or trainers who phrase that. Let us delve into that in the following analyses based on the skin layer thicknesses.

Claims regarding microblading

Microblading is a technique often stated to target the basal membrane, situated between the dermis and epidermis. To scrutinize this claim, we must consider the anatomical structure of the skin, specifically focusing on the thickness of the epidermis, dermis, and basal membrane.

Dermis Thickness in the brow area

The dermis varies in thickness depending on the body region, age, gender, and individual factors like ethnicity and overall health. While specific measurements for the brow area might not be universally standardized, we can analyze the thickness of the dermis based on the scientific facts about the facial dermis in general.

Thus, although the dermis varies in thickness, especially in the brow area. At the brow's start, it can exceed 1 mm (1000 micrometers or 1 million nanometers). Considering factors like skin type, health, and ethnic background, the thickness may range between 1000-2000 micrometers (1-2mm). Progressing towards the tail of the brow, this thickness diminishes significantly.

However, it's important to note that such specific measurements for the brow area are less commonly detailed in dermatological literature. Most references to dermal thickness pertain to broader regions, like the face in general, rather than specific areas, such as the eyebrows. From the current perspective and the following analyses, we can proceed with the absolute “healthier and thicker” version of the dermis that still allows us to reach the same conclusions.

Epidermis Thickness in the brow area

In the eyebrow area, the epidermis shows less variation in thickness. Accounting for different skin properties, the epidermis in this region typically measures between 50-100 micrometers (0.05-0.1 mm).

It is safe to say that this range aligns with established dermatological knowledge. The epidermis is considerably thinner than the dermis and varies less in thickness across different body areas. The epidermis on the face, including the brow area, is typically thinner than other body parts like the palms or soles.

Basal Membrane Thickness

The basal membrane (the basement membrane) is a thin, fibrous structure separating the epidermis from the dermis. It plays a crucial role in cellular processes like adhesion and signaling. As the layer between the dermis and epidermis, the basal membrane, is substantially thinner, measuring between 10-50 nanometers (0.01-0.05 micrometers). In millimeters, this translates to approximately 0.00001 to 0.00005 mm.

Size of colorant particles in pigmentation

The size range of pigment particles used in tattoo inks and similar substances typically spans 100-500 nanometers. This dimension is strategically chosen to balance the particles' ease of skin insertion while ensuring their retention within the dermis. It prevents easy removal by the body's immune system or other biological mechanisms. However, it's essential to recognize the role of van der Waals forces in the behavior of these particles.

Particularly in pigments like Carbon Black (CI 77266), van der Waals forces contribute to the formation of aggregates. These forces often require substantial energy to be overcome, akin to fracturing in geological processes. Consequently, the effective “particle” size in such cases is not just the individual pigment molecules but also these larger aggregates, which can reach around 1 micrometer in size. This aggregation can affect the pigment's behavior in the skin and its longevity post-application.

Conclusion regarding depth

Given the aggregate size of approximately 1 micrometer, alongside the typical pigment particle size of 100-500 nanometers, the concept of depositing pigment solely into the basal membrane is anatomically untenable. In microblading, incisions made by the blade - comprising multiple needles - penetrate through the epidermis, basal membrane, and into the upper layers of the dermis, specifically the papillary dermis. This penetration depth is essential to ensure that the pigment, whether as individual particles or aggregates, is implanted securely within the dermis.

The durability and visibility of the pigment, even after the natural renewal processes of the epidermis, further corroborate this anatomical necessity. The pigment must be located within the dermis to remain visible over time as the epidermis continually regenerates. This conclusion aligns with the pigments' physical properties and the human skin's biological characteristics. Hopefully, it provides a more comprehensive understanding of the microblading process and its lasting effects.

4. Removal of Particles

Bloodstream Entry

A small fraction of particles might enter the bloodstream, though this is relatively rare and often linked to smaller particle sizes.

Phagocytosis

Massage particles may be engulfed by macrophages and transported to the lymphatic system. Contrary to some beliefs, larger particles (up to 10 micrometers) are more likely to be phagocytosed than smaller ones (less than 500 nanometers). This contradicts the simplistic notion that larger particles are harder for macrophages to “eat.” In reality, due to their detection mechanisms, macrophages tend to “miss” particles in the 100-200 nanometer range.

To be more exact, macrophages universally do not “miss” all particles in the 100-200 nanometer range because that depends again on the chemistry, specifically on the outer layer of such particles. But that size particles tend to escape macrophage often.

Although smaller particles (in the nanometer range) can be phagocytosed, their uptake efficiency is often influenced by how they interact with the macrophage's surface receptors. Particles that are too small (often less than 500 nm in size) may be less efficiently recognized compared to larger particles. Thus, this does not imply an inability to phagocytose small particles; those are just less likely to be detected.

A note about larger particles

Those can be phagocytosed when it comes to much larger particles (up to 10 micrometers). Still, this process might involve the cooperation of multiple macrophages or different mechanisms like “frustrated phagocytosis,” where the macrophage cannot fully engulf the particle. Therefore, the notion that larger particles are inherently more difficult for macrophages to engulf is indeed an oversimplification. Often, the smaller particles are the ones that are not noticed and, thus, not engulfed.

5. Particles remaining in the dermis

To understand how the pigment remains in the skin and the micro-bladed lines remain “seen” through the skin, we must understand how the pigment particles remain in the skin. To understand that we need first to understand the fate of macrophages that cannot transport the particles into the lymphic system, nor process those on site.

Macrophage Status Transformation

After engulfing pigment particles, some macrophages undergo a transformation and become dormant, effectively immobilizing the pigment within them. They don't “die” but enter a state of inactivity, gradually releasing the pigment. Let us take a closer look at that.

Macrophage operation and pigment processing

As established, macrophages cannot process certain colorants, like elemental carbon and other chemically inert particles. In such cases, the macrophages may contain these particles without processing them. More specifically, they can cluster around the material, forming a granuloma. This containment strategy effectively “walls off” the foreign material from the rest of the body, contributing to the pigment's long-term visibility in the skin. Gradually, these pigments may fade due to the natural turnover of cells and the slow release or degradation of the pigment.

Fading of the pigment - release of pigment particles

The gradual release of smaller pigment particles is a natural part of macrophage activity and is not associated with dormancy. This release depends on various factors, including the size and chemical nature of the pigment, as well as the immune response. Over time, macrophages may degrade or excrete the pigment. This can occur due to the macrophages' natural breakdown or the pigment's processing and excretion.

Fibroblast Encapsulation

Pigment particles can be trapped within the fibroblast network, particularly when aggregated. The collagen framework captures and retains these particles, ensuring longer retention due to the slower regeneration rate of this network compared to epidermal renewal.

Retention in Extracellular Matrix (ECM)

Aggregated or agglomerated particles can remain in the ECM, influenced by their chemical properties and pH compatibility with the skin environment. Larger aggregates and suitable chemical interactions can lead to prolonged detention, sometimes for years.

Penetration to Reticular Dermis and Hypodermis

If the pigment is implanted deeper, reaching the reticular dermis or hypodermis, it can result in 'blurred lines'. In this scenario, the chemical composition of the pigments becomes crucial. For instance, pigments rich in organic hydrocarbons (C-H) may find a favorable environment in the lipid-rich hypodermis, leading to longer retention.

Pigment aggregates in the skin can break down over time

Forces between particles, particularly van der Waals forces, may loosen or break over time, especially under certain conditions such as exposure to UV light, chemicals, enzymes, or laser treatments. However, covalent bonds within the particles themselves are typically robust and unlikely to be altered by these processes.

Thus, the retention and visibility of microblading pigments are influenced by multiple factors, including the depth of implantation, particle size, aggregation, chemical properties, and the physiological response of the skin. The fate of each pigment particle is determined by a complex interplay of these factors, making the outcome highly variable and individualized.

6. Perpetual Retouching Cycle (PRC)

Practical Impossibility of Perpetual Retouching

The theory that microblading can be maintained "forever" through consistent retouching is theoretically possible but practically challenging. Each retouching cycle aims to recreate crisp, sharp lines, assuming that the previously applied pigment fades or is removed over time.

Chemical Aspects

Chemically, perpetual retouching presupposes that the pigment particles fade or are removed from the lymphatic system consistently for each primary color: black, red, and yellow. This is theoretically plausible, especially with pigments containing minimal additives that might impede this process. It is more likely with inorganic colorant particles than with those containing carbon black (CI 77266). Furthermore, the absence of substances like titanium dioxide, which can affect the degradation and photostability of other colorants, is crucial.

Biological Aspects

Biologically, the interaction of inorganic oxides with skin proteins, like ferritin, could lead to oxidation changes, potentially causing "brows to turn red." Salinization can mitigate this, which protects the particle's outer layer from such reactions. However, this does not directly influence the removal of particles from the skin. The predictability of particle transfer to the lymphatic system is theoretical and varies in practice.

A significant biological concern is the transformation of the collagen structure at the microblading sites. Over time, this structure could become so compact that it is increasingly difficult to implant new particles in the same location, affecting the crispness of the lines after each retouch.

8. Practical Reality

The experiences of skilled artists in the research indicate the challenges in creating conditions for perpetual retouching. Even with highly skilled artists, optimal pigments, and healthy skin, achieving all three aspects—pigment particles disappearing before each retouch, complete rebuilding of the collagen network, and client satisfaction—is practically unattainable. There is an inevitable deviation from the ideal over time.

Chemical Problems

In cases where substances that remain in the skin longer, such as Carbon Black is used, it tends to remain in the skin, accumulating black colorant particles over time. This saturation eventually limits the ability for further pigment implantation in the same area.

Biological Problems

If the retouching cycle is shorter than the time needed for the collagen network to recover, effective re-implantation of the pigment becomes physically challenging. This leads to micro-scarring and blurring of lines. The ideal cycle duration varies based on factors like client age, lifestyle, and the artist's technique. Generally, the cycle should not be shorter than 6-12 months to allow for adequate skin recovery.

Psychological Problems

Client expectations play a significant role. Often, clients may desire more frequent retouches to maintain crisp lines. However, this can paradoxically lead to less crisp and more blurred lines over time, as continuous implantation in the same location leads to oversaturation and a collagen network too dense to accept new pigment effectively.

Preliminary conclusion

It is concluded that perpetual retouching in microblading is not achievable in practice withouth lines blurring and color undesired changes. This challenge is not exclusive to microblading but extends to similar pigmentation techniques, however it has to be evaluated separately with each technique as the desired outcome on skin is different.

The issue's complexity transcends chemical, physical, or psychological solutions alone. While improvements in each area can extend the duration between cycles, a complete restart with the same or a new technique eventually becomes necessary due to the intricate interplay of these factors. Such “restarts” require the removal of the maximal amount of pigment first. However, it the overall interval before the removal is required stretches over multiple years (for example, 3-5 years), it makes such semi-permanent makeup still an attractive option for most customers.

9. Conclusions

Scientific Inaccuracy of Microblading Claims

This article critically examined the prevalent claim in semi-permanent makeup: "Microblading is done in between the dermis and epidermis, into the basal membrane." Our analysis reveals that this claim is scientifically inaccurate. The primary reason lies in the anatomical structure of the skin, particularly in the brow area. The epidermis and dermis layers, coupled with the ultra-thin basal membrane, make it anatomically implausible to target this precise interface for pigment implantation. The size of pigment particles and their aggregates further complicates this, as they are too large to be confined within the narrow confines of the basal membrane.

Microblading Implantation Target Layer

Furthermore, it is essential to understand that this technique's target layer for microblading pigment implantation is not unique. Like other pigmentation techniques, such as Powder brows or the nano hairstroke technique, microblading targets the papillary dermis. This layer is more suitable for retaining pigment particles over time, given its structural and biological properties. Positioning the pigment within the papillary dermis ensures its visibility and durability, factors crucial for the effectiveness of these cosmetic procedures.

Perpetual Retouching Cycle (PRC)

The concept of a perpetual retouching cycle in microblading has been explored, revealing its multifaceted nature encompassing chemical, biological, and psychological dimensions. Perpetual retouching refers to the idea of continuously refreshing microblading results to maintain crisp, precise lines. Chemically, this requires the pigments to fade or be removed consistently between touch-ups, a variable and unpredictable process. Biologically, the challenge lies in allowing the collagen network in the skin to recover adequately between sessions, a necessity often at odds with the desired frequency of retouching. Psychologically, client expectations and desires for frequent retouching can lead to a paradoxical outcome where the lines become less crisp and more blurred over time.

Given these complexities, the notion of a practical, perpetual retouching cycle in microblading, and by extension in similar techniques, is largely unfeasible. The interplay of skin's biological responses, pigment behavior, and human factors like client expectations makes achieving this a daunting, if not impossible, task.

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Why Perpetual Retouching Cycle is not achievable in microblading

1. Background

2. Understanding Microblading depth