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Persistence of Organic Pigments: A Focus on Carbon Black

Nov 19, 2023, Update: Nov 19, 2023, author: Powderbrows.com / Holistic PMU
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"To grasp how organic pigments, especially carbon black, remain stable in the skin, it's essential to know the unique properties of this material. In this article, we'll explore the role of aggregates as the "real particles," their stability, the process of laser removal as a form of fracturing, the impact of UV light on these aggregates, and finally, the comparative stability of Black 7 over Black 2. Each of these elements plays a critical role in understanding the behavior and longevity of carbon black pigments in powder brows and semi-permanent makeup applications."

1. Background of the Study


This article is the culmination of empirical observations gathered from 46 seasoned artists specializing in using organic pigments, including carbon black. These insights were collected through interviews conducted between 2019 and 2023. Furthermore, the information presented here has been meticulously reviewed and evaluated by two chemists, a dermatologist, and an expert in cellular biology. It forms a part of the advanced study in pigmentology - Level 2 within the three-tier framework of the Holistic PMU and Powderbrows.com Research Center. This level of study assumes a foundational knowledge of chemistry and pigmentology, necessary for a comprehensive understanding of the concepts discussed.

2. Carbon Black - the Basics


Carbon black is an engineered material predominantly made up of elemental carbon. It is produced through the partial combustion or thermal decomposition of hydrocarbons. Characteristically, it exists in the form of aggregates with aciniform morphology, each comprising spheroidal primary particles.

These primary particles exhibit uniform size within a given aggregate and are organized in turbostratic layers. The sizes of both the particles and the aggregates are distributional characteristics that vary across different grades of carbon black. While there is significant variation in particle and aggregate sizes within a particular grade, the size of the primary particles tends to be consistent within each individual aggregate. This uniformity is a key feature of carbon black's structure and influences its behavior and applications.

3. The "true" paricle


Terminology Challenge: "Primary Particle" vs. “Aggregate"

There's often a terminology challenge in the realm of pigmentology, particularly when examining colorants from a chemical and physical standpoint. Scientific literature and study simplifications sometimes use the terms "molecule," "particle," and "aggregate" interchangeably. This can lead to confusion, especially when discussing the properties of colorants like carbon black (CI 77266), a well-known and extensively analyzed component in organic chemistry.

Primary Particle in Carbon Black

In many technical specifications, the term "particle" in the context of carbon black refers to a spherically shaped primary particle. This particle typically possesses a paracrystalline, non-discrete structure and varies in diameter (approximately 25-500 nm) based on the production method. The analysis of its crystalline structure, including the turbostratic structure, reveals how stable "flakes" of covalent bonds are held together in a spherically-shaped "ball" bound by weaker van der Waals forces.

Overlooked Aspect: Aggregate as the "Real Particle”

However, a crucial aspect often overlooked in pigmentology is the autonomy of these primary particles. These small, spherically-shaped (paracrystalline, non-discrete) entities almost always comprise a larger structure - the carbon black aggregate. These aggregates, separable only by fracturing (or fracking), typically measure around 1 micrometer (1000 nm).

In understanding how pigments behave in the skin and determining the true nature of the particle, it's essential to consider the forces holding these aggregates together. Despite the presence of primary particles, the aggregate - a cluster of these particles - is what should be considered the "real particle" in discussions about carbon black in pigments.

Implications in Semi-Permanent Makeup

This understanding is particularly significant in semi-permanent makeup. The behavior of these aggregates in the skin, their interaction with biological structures, and their stability and color properties are crucial factors. By considering the aggregate as the true representative particle, professionals in semi-permanent makeup can achieve more accurate and safer applications, tailoring their techniques and materials to the actual behavior of the pigments in the skin. 

To understand what it would take for the aggregate to be broken into primary (nano)particles, let us explore the concept of fracturing more closely.

4. Fracturing


Fracturing (Fracking) of Carbon Black Aggregates

Fracturing, in the context of pigment particles, refers to the process of breaking down aggregates into their constituent primary particles. In carbon black, aggregates are clusters of tightly bound primary particles. The forces holding these aggregates together include van der Waals forces, which are relatively weak electrostatic attractions between molecules.

Significant energy is required to overcome these binding forces to fracture these aggregates. In a laboratory setting, this can be achieved through mechanical, ultrasonic, or chemical means. The fracturing process disrupts the aggregate structure, releasing individual primary particles.

Feasibility of Fracturing in Skin

When considering the human skin, especially in the realm of semi-permanent makeup, the scenario changes significantly.

Energy Requirement for Fracturing The energy required to fracture carbon black aggregates into primary particles is considerable. In the skin, such energy levels are not naturally present. Mechanical forces exerted during the application of makeup are insufficient to cause fracturing at the molecular level.

Theoretical Considerations Theoretically, if fracturing occurs in the skin, it would require an external force or intervention, such as ultrasonic treatment. However, such procedures would be highly unconventional and potentially unsafe in a cosmetic or dermatological context.

Biological Reactions

If fracturing did occur in the skin, it could lead to increased skin exposure to smaller primary particles. These smaller particles might have a higher potential for penetration and interaction with skin cells, potentially leading to different biological reactions, including inflammatory responses or cellular stress.

Stability and Safety

Given the improbability and potential risks of fracturing aggregates in the skin, the stability of pigment aggregates is a favorable characteristic in semi-permanent makeup. It ensures a more controlled interaction with the skin and reduces the risk of unintended biological responses.

Preliminary conclusions

Thus, while the concept of fracturing carbon black aggregates into primary particles is scientifically sound, its application within human skin, especially in the context of semi-permanent makeup, is highly unlikely and not advisable due to the potential risks and the lack of natural or safe means to achieve such a process. Understanding these limitations is crucial for professionals in semi-permanent makeup to ensure safe and effective applications.

The obvious next question about that topic is - how can such “fracturing” then occur that breaks the aggregates as the “real particles”? As many artists might have guessed - this is exactly what the laser removal treatment is all about.

5. Laser as Fracturing



Laser Treatment as a Form of Fracturing

Laser tattoo removal utilizes intense pulses of light to target pigment particles in the skin. The key mechanism at play is photothermolysis, where the pigment absorbs specific wavelengths of light, causing rapid heating and subsequent breakdown of the pigment particles. Here's a detailed explanation of how this can be seen as a form of fracturing.

Selective Absorption

The laser selectively targets pigment particles based on their color and absorption characteristics. Carbon black, being a strong absorber of laser light, is particularly susceptible to this process. Rapid Heating and Expansion The carbon black particles rapidly heat up when they absorb the laser light. This sudden increase in temperature causes the particles to expand.

Fracturing of Aggregates

The rapid expansion and heating of the carbon black particles lead to a mechanical breakdown of the aggregate structures. This process effectively “fractures” the aggregates into smaller fragments. Unlike the broader mechanical fracturing methods used in industrial settings, it's a controlled and localized form of fracturing.

Dispersion and removal

Once fractured into smaller particles, the body's immune system more easily processes and eliminates these fragments. The lymphatic system gradually removes these smaller particles from the skin, leading to a fading of the powder brows or semi-permanent makeup (or tattoos) in general.

Safety and precision

Laser tattoo removal is designed to be precise and safe, targeting only the pigment particles without causing significant damage to the surrounding skin tissues. This precision reduces potential side effects and ensures effective pigment removal.

Preliminary conclusions

Therefore, laser tattoo removal can be viewed as a sophisticated form of fracturing, specifically tailored to break down pigment aggregates like carbon black in the skin. By utilizing specific wavelengths of light, the process induces rapid heating and expansion of the pigment particles, leading to their breakdown and eventual removal by the body's immune system. This method offers a controlled and safe way to alter and eliminate unwanted pigmentation in the skin, such as tattoos.

That scientific factual causality is an important aspect to understand to develop a critical approach to simplified explanations of carbon black “broken down by UV light,” which is sometimes used by some artists who clearly have insufficient knowledge about the subject. Let us explore that a bit further to see the actual possibility of UV light “fracturing” the carbon black (real) particle (as an aggregate) in the skin.

6. Carbon Black and UV Light


Unrealistic Breakdown of Carbon Black Aggregates by UV Light

High Lightfastness of Carbon Black Carbon black is known for its high lightfastness index, which is highly resistant to fading when exposed to light, including ultraviolet (UV) light from the sun. This property is due to the stable chemical structure of carbon black particles.

Limitation of UV Light Energy

The energy provided by UV light from the sun is relatively low compared to the energy required to fracture carbon black aggregates. While UV light can cause certain chemical changes in some materials, its energy cannot break the strong bonds holding carbon black aggregates together. Therefore, it's unrealistic to expect UV light alone to cause significant breakdown of these aggregates inside the skin.

Enthalpy and Entropy of Carbon Black Aggregates

In simple terms, enthalpy can be considered a system's total heat content or energy, while entropy represents the degree of disorder or randomness.

  • Stability of aggregates

    A carbon black aggregate, approximately 1 micrometer in size, is a stable structure. Its enthalpy reflects the energy involved in maintaining its structure, while its entropy indicates the arrangement of primary particles within the aggregates.

  • Effect of rearranging primary particles

    Rearranging the primary particles within an aggregate does not significantly alter the overall enthalpy and entropy of the aggregate. The internal forces (like van der Waals forces) that hold the aggregate together remain relatively constant, even if the positions of the primary particles shift. This is because the overall structure and energy of the aggregate as a whole do not change drastically with minor rearrangements.

Analogy with a Bunch of Grapes

A bunch of grapes can be likened to a carbon black aggregate, each representing a primary particle. Stability and Properties Just as rearranging grapes in a bunch doesn't significantly change the overall properties of the bunch (such as its weight, volume, or shape), rearranging the primary particles in a carbon black aggregate doesn’t fundamentally alter its overall properties.

Implications for stability

This analogy helps to understand why minor internal changes within an aggregate (like carbon black in the skin) do not lead to significant changes in its behavior or properties. The aggregate remains stable, much like a bunch of grapes, regardless of the positions of its individual components.


In summary, the high lightfastness of carbon black makes it resistant to breakdown by UV light, the stability of carbon black aggregates is maintained despite internal rearrangement of primary particles, and the analogy with a bunch of grapes effectively illustrates the overall stability of these aggregates.

Next, let us discuss one more question that has confused many artists - namely, the claim that “smaller particles” of carbon black were more stable “than larger.” In the context of semi-permanent pigments, that comparison can be made, for example, between Furnace black and Thermal black. Let us take a closer look at that. Comparative Stability of Thermal Black and Furnace Black

7. Enhanced stability of larger particles


Surface Activity and Chemical Reactivity

Surface activity in carbon black refers to the chemical reactivity of its surface, which is influenced by the orientation of graphitic planes and the presence of organic side groups.

Molecular composition

At the molecular level, carbon black consists of amorphous graphite layer planes formed from aromatic rings. The edges of these planes, with unsatisfied carbon bonds, act as potential sites for chemical reactions.

Production Process and Structural Differences


  • Thermal Black Production. The production of thermal black involves a longer reaction time and higher temperatures (about 1300°C). This process leads to highly ordered graphite layer planes, with layer plane surfaces exposed on the particle surface. As a result, fewer unsatisfied carbon bonds are at the edges, reducing potential reaction sites for elastomer interaction.

  • Furnace Black Production. In contrast, furnace black is produced through shorter reaction times. This results in less ordered layer planes at the surface, leading to a higher number of potential reactive sites due to exposed unsatisfied carbon bonds. Electron Microscopy Findings Recent scanning tunneling electron microscopy (STM) studies show that larger particle-size carbon blacks, like thermal black, tend to have a more organized surface structure with fewer active sites. This indicates a more stable and less reactive surface than smaller particle-size carbon blacks.

Influence of Production Environment

Thermal Black Environment Thermal black is produced in an environment devoid of flame or air, contributing to its purity and stability.

Furnace Black Environment

Furnace black, typically produced by the incomplete combustion of petroleum residues, contains various organic functional groups like phenols, hydroxyls, lactones, and quinones. These groups increase surface activity, potentially leading to more reactivity.

Preliminary conclusion Based on these factors, thermal black (Black 7) demonstrates properties that indicate greater stability and lower reactivity than furnace black (Black 2). The larger particle size, more organized surface structure, and absence of reactive organic functional groups make thermal black a more stable choice, particularly in applications where stability and reduced reactivity are desired, such as in semi-permanent makeup.

8. Conclusions


The Aggregate as the "True Particle”. In the realm of semi-permanent makeup, it's vital to understand that the aggregate, rather than the primary particle, represents the "real particle" in discussions about carbon black. These aggregates, clusters of primary particles, play a pivotal role in how pigments behave within the skin, interact with biological structures, and exhibit stability and color properties. Recognizing the aggregate as the fundamental unit in pigment analysis allows professionals to tailor their techniques and materials for safer and more effective applications.

Fracturing (Fracking) of Carbon Black Aggregates

While scientifically valid, the concept of fracturing carbon black aggregates into primary particles is not practical or advisable within human skin, particularly in semi-permanent makeup. The risks involved and the absence of natural or safe methods for such fracturing underscore the importance of understanding these limitations for safe application practices.

Laser Removal as Controlled Fracturing

Laser tattoo removal represents a controlled form of fracturing, effectively targeting and breaking down pigment aggregates like carbon black. This process, involving specific wavelengths of light, causes rapid heating and expansion of pigment particles, facilitating their elimination by the body's immune system. This precision ensures a safe and targeted approach to removing unwanted pigmentation.

Stability Under UV Light

Carbon black's high lightfastness renders it resistant to UV light-induced breakdown. The stability of carbon black aggregates remains consistent, even with internal rearrangements of primary particles. This stability is aptly illustrated by the analogy of a bunch of grapes, where rearranging individual grapes (primary particles) does not significantly alter the properties of the whole bunch (aggregate).

Advantage of Larger Primary Particles in Thermal Black

Thermal black (Black 7) exhibits greater stability and lower reactivity than furnace black (Black 2). Its larger particle size, more organized surface structure, and the absence of reactive organic functional groups contribute to its suitability in applications where stability and reduced reactivity are crucial, such as in semi-permanent makeup.
 
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Comments
 
Rica
Tuesday, Nov 21, 2023

Actually I think it is a great article! The point about carbon black aggregates and why fracturing them in the skin isn’t practical really opened my eyes. Safety first in semi-permanent makeup :) huh, but seriously, its so true :)

Natty
Sunday, Nov 19, 2023

Very insightful. Pigmentology is hard and I really appreciate that you make it a little easier.


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