How to understand your pigmetns

2. The Magnet Test

Using a magnet is a simple experiment that can provide insights into your pigment composition. Two outcomes are possible when placing a small, light magnet against the pigment bottle. It may attach itself to the bottle, or it may remain unresponsive.

If one has access to a laboratory, they may also perform a spectroscopy test to accurately identify the magnetic components using methods like X-ray fluorescence (XRF) spectroscopy or inductively coupled plasma mass spectrometry (ICP-MS). These are sophisticated methods and are usually inaccessible to ordinary artists. Thus, the simple magnet test does the trick.

Observations on the Magnetic Properties

Presence of metals in pigments- If a magnet adheres to a pigment bottle, it strongly indicates the presence of metallic compounds, most likely iron oxides. Specifically, the pigment likely contains Black Iron Oxide (CI 77499), also known as Fe3O4 or magnetite, renowned for its magnetic properties.
Probability of the presence of other heavy metals. For pigments designed for semi-permanent makeup, adherence to FDA standards or compliance with REACH in the European Union suggests a low likelihood of magnetism being caused by heavy metals other than Iron Oxide Black. The suggestion that Iron Oxide Black pigments carry a risk of containing additional heavy metals is based on outdated methods. Historically, when iron oxide colorants were derived directly from iron ore, there was a risk of contamination with other heavy metals. However, in contemporary practices, Black Iron Oxide used in semi-permanent makeup is predominantly synthesized in laboratories, significantly reducing any such risks.
Conclusions in the case of hybrid pigments. In the case of hybrid pigments containing both inorganic Black Iron Oxide (CI 77499) and organic Carbon Black (CI 77266), magnetic attraction suggests a relatively higher proportion of Iron Oxide Black than Carbon Black.

Magnetic Properties of Red Iron Oxide (CI 77491)

Regarding warmer brown pigments containing Red Iron Oxide (CI 77491), the lack of magnetic properties is often mistakenly attributed to low iron oxides. However, this is a misconception. The absence of magnetic properties in Red Iron Oxide is due to its inherent chemical structure, not the physical quantity present in the pigment. Due to its specific molecular arrangement, Red Iron Oxide, chemically different from Black Iron Oxide, does not exhibit magnetic properties.

Differences in magnetite and hematite magnetic properties

Fe3O4, also known as magnetite, is a compound that contains both Fe(II) and Fe(III) ions. This mixed valence gives magnetite its characteristic magnetic properties. In magnetite, the electron spin of iron ions aligns to generate a net magnetic field, attracting the compound to magnets. When Fe3O4 is present in pigments, a simple magnet test can detect these magnetic properties. The pigment particles will exhibit attraction to the magnet due to the presence of magnetite.

Fe2O3 (CI 77491) - Hematite comprises Fe(III) ions. In hematite, the electron spin of iron ions aligns in an antiferromagnetic order at a microscopic level. This alignment almost entirely cancels out any external magnetic field, rendering hematite non-magnetic under normal conditions. This is why pigments containing Fe2O3 (red iron oxide) do not exhibit magnetic properties or respond to a magnet. They lack the internal magnetic alignment that magnetite possesses.

Magnetic properties propose no actual health risks

Typical Concerns with Other Metallic Compounds. There could be potential health risks if a pigment contains other magnetic metals, such as nickel or cobalt. These metals can sometimes cause allergic reactions or skin sensitivities. Heavy metals like lead or mercury, if present, pose significant health risks, although they are not commonly found in reputable pigment products. However, none of those health risks are present when discussing iron oxides in pigments and magnetite that have magnetic properties.

MRI Concerns. There's a common misconception that the magnetic properties in pigments can affect MRI (Magnetic Resonance Imaging) procedures. However, the iron oxides used in pigments are typically in such low concentrations that they do not pose a risk of skin heating or image distortion during MRI.

Allergic Reactions and Sensitivities

While the magnetic properties themselves are not a direct health risk, individual allergic reactions or sensitivities to specific metallic components in the pigment should be considered. Patch testing can help identify any potential reactions.

Regulatory Compliance

Pigments used in semi-permanent makeup should comply with regulatory standards set by agencies like the FDA or their international equivalents. This compliance ensures that the concentration of metallic compounds is within safe limits.

Thus, while the magnetic properties of semi-permanent makeup pigments, primarily due to iron oxides, are generally safe, it's crucial to be aware of the composition of these pigments. Ensuring they are from reputable sources and comply with regulatory standards minimizes any health risks. Always consider individual allergic reactions and conduct appropriate testing when necessary.

Conclusions about the safety of iron oxides

Iron is a ubiquitous element, prevalent in many common foods and supplements. It's found in red meat, poultry, fish, and plant-based sources like beans, lentils, and leafy greens. Iron supplements are often recommended for specific populations, including pregnant women, due to their essential role in the human body.

However, the form of iron and its usage merits consideration when it comes to pigments, particularly in the context of semi-permanent makeup used for powder brows.

Iron Oxides in Pigments
.
Iron oxides used in pigments, including those for semi-permanent makeup, are generally considered safe. These compounds are different from elemental iron or iron found in food. They are chemically stable, non-reactive in the body, and are widely used in various cosmetic products.
Magnet Tests and Misinterpretation. Performing 'magnet tests' on pigments can lead to misunderstandings. While these tests may demonstrate the presence of magnetic materials like iron oxides, they don't inherently indicate a health risk. As per current scientific understanding, iron oxides' magnetic properties in pigments do not correlate with any adverse effects on the human body.
Scientific Consensus. No established scientific consensus suggests that pigments with magnetic properties due to iron oxides pose health risks. To the opposite, the use of iron oxides in cosmetics, including semi-permanent makeup, is regulated and deemed safe by various health authorities, provided they are used within prescribed guidelines.
Claims Regarding Pigment Safety. Caution is advised when interpreting claims about the dangers of certain pigments, especially those made in the context of social media “exposés.” These claims often lack a thorough understanding of the scientific principles involved. In some cases, they might be influenced by commercial interests, such as affiliations with producers of alternative pigment types.

Do not forget the holistic approach. It's important to understand that the safety of a pigment is not solely determined by its composition but also by how it's used. The technique of application, the area of application, and individual skin reactions play a significant role in the overall safety and effect of the pigment.

3. “Particle size” test

The second practical test involves mixing your pigment with water to discern its colorant production method and even “particle size”. This can be particularly useful when it's hard to ascertain this information from the label, a common issue with carbon-based pigments such as CI 77266.

To conduct the test, pour a few drops of pigment into a glass of water. Avoid stirring immediately, as this can make it difficult to make accurate observations. You can draw several conclusions depending on how the pigment interacts with the water.

Oil or gas origin

One observation that can be made rather easily, even by an untrained eye, is how the pigment reacts with the water. Practically immediately, one can see if the pigment tends to “fill” the water with flake-like particles or react in the water like a drop of oil, spreading in various directions and not mixing with the water.

Oily appearance - Furnace Black (Black 2)

If the pigment floats on the water's surface, appearing oily and refusing to mix, it's likely "Furnace Black." This pigment is created by burning petroleum in a furnace.

As Carbon Black, Furnace Black is typically produced by incomplete combustion of heavy petroleum products such as FCC tar, coal tar, or ethylene cracking tar. This process involves burning these substances in a furnace with a limited air supply to encourage partial oxidation. The resultant carbon particles are then collected. You can also read about the best use cases of this type of pigment from our other posts. However, it is very opaque and too dark to fill larger areas.

What characterizes this sort of black pigment is the chemical fact that those can be “real organic” pigments, meaning that the proportion of carbohydrates (C-H) in their colorant content can actually exceed 50%. It is rarely much more than half, but it still exceeds tremendously the rather low carbohydrate content of other Carbon Black pigments, such as Black 6 or Black 7.

This is the pigment one should be very careful with; not use it when it comes to the powder brows procedure. Due to its extreme “sinking into skin” ability, it can generally only be used effectively between the eyelashes coloring for the eyeliner procedure, and it would spread in the skin too extensively when it comes to brow area pigmentation.

“Flaky” appearance - Channel Black or Thermal Black

If the pigment immediately dyes the water, similar to the effect of berry juice, it's probably "Channel Black." This pigment has extremely small particles (90-100nm), making it highly opaque. It's a good choice for shading eyelids and eyeliner but is usually just too dark and opaque for eyebrows. If one uses it within the mix with other colors, one should realize that it should be used for shading.

Channel Black, also known as Black 6, is derived through a process of decomposing natural gas in a channel furnace, generating elemental carbon. This results in extremely small particles, ideal for achieving a deep, dark black. Even when used in shading when it comes to Powder Brows, the particles tend to “sink” deep in the skin; thus, the area healing bluish is dangerous.

Larger “flakes” or droplets - Black 7

Lastly, if the pigment particles remain suspended in the water as small droplets, it's probably "Thermal Black” (Black7). This pigment is predominantly composed of inorganic carbon and, thus, does not react with water. This kind of pigment, which yields brownish and anthracite undertones rather than a bluish hue, is suitable for use on brows.

Thermal Black, also known as Black 7, is created through the thermal decomposition of natural gas or oil. The process involves subjecting the fuel to extremely high temperatures without air to produce nearly pure elemental carbon. The result is a pigment with larger particles that offer a less intense black than Furnace or Channel Black.

Iron oxide vs. Black 7

Depending on the concrete pigment, the particles of Thermal Black may be comparable to Iron oxide particles, and the difference between those two can be detected by the Iron Oxide sinking to the bottom faster due to the weight of its particles. However, when comparing the actual substance content, mineral, and inorganic pigments act as “heavier versions” of the large-flake or droplet Black seven pigment.

4. “Particle Size” in Pigments

When discussing pigments in semi-permanent makeup, especially when observing how they disperse in water, it's important to clarify what we can and cannot see. Referring to this process as “seeing the size of particles” is a misconception that needs addressing.

Structure of Pigment Particles

Like those in Carbon Black, pigment particles often have a spherical, turbostratic, or paracrystalline structure. These 'particles' are essentially small clusters composed of flake-like layers. The individual layers consist of tightly bound carbon composite molecules (connected via covalent bonds) and are held together more loosely by van der Waals forces.

The true particle size

These spherical particles can contain thousands to tens of thousands of molecules. Their size typically ranges from 100 to 1000 nanometers (nm). Converting these dimensions to a more familiar unit, millimeters (mm), we find that these particles measure approximately 0.0001 to 0.001 mm in diameter.

Limitations of human vision

The human eye's resolution limit is around 0.1 mm under normal viewing conditions. This means we can generally see objects down to this size without assistance. However, pigment particles are far smaller, 100 to 1000 times less than we can visually discern.

Implications for artists Therefore, any claims of “seeing actual particles” in pigment dispersions are scientifically unfounded. What artists are observing is the behavior of pigment clusters or aggregates in the water, not individual particles. This behavior can still provide valuable insights into the pigment's properties, such as its dispersion, sedimentation, and overall stability in a liquid medium. Still, it should not be mistaken for direct observation of individual particle sizes.

Conclusions from the “Water Test”

Oily Appearance Suggests Furnace Black (Black 2): If the pigment floats and appears oily, it's likely Furnace Black, derived from burning petroleum in a furnace. This pigment's organic nature means it's rich in carbon-hydrogen compounds but unsuitable for powder brows due to its intense color and deep skin penetration. Ideal for eyeliner but not brows.

“Flaky” Appearance Indicates Channel Black (Black 6) or Thermal Black (Black 7): If the pigment dyes the water instantly, like berry juice, it's probably Channel Black, with very small particles and high opacity. Best used for shading, but caution is advised for brow procedures due to potential bluish healing. If the pigment forms small droplets, it's likely Thermal Black, with larger inorganic carbon particles, suitable for brow pigmentation due to its brownish or anthracite undertones.

Settling Speed and Weight Differences: Iron oxide particles tend to sink faster due to their weight compared to Thermal Black particles. While Thermal Black (Black 7) may visually resemble Iron oxide in water, its physical properties and composition differ significantly.

7. Getting info from producers

In addition to direct observation and testing, communicating with pigment producers can be an informative, albeit limited, approach. It's important to recognize that while direct inquiries to manufacturers are unlikely to unearth groundbreaking revelations about pigment compositions, they can still yield useful insights.

Do not be naive

Responses from pigment manufacturers, particularly larger ones, are typically managed by marketing, sales, or digital PR departments. These responses are often meticulously crafted, leaving little room for inadvertent disclosures of sensitive or negative information regarding their products. This is partly due to regulatory constraints in regions like the EU and the US, where disclosure requirements are often minimal.

Observations

However, a noteworthy aspect of these communications is that manufacturers tend to highlight the use of premium components or advanced production methods in their responses. For instance, if a producer utilizes larger particle Black 7, which is considered safer, they are likely to explicitly mention it instead of generically referring to the use of 'modified carbon black CI 77266.' Similarly, if silanization processes are employed in treating iron oxide molecules, manufacturers often share this detail, albeit in simplified terms, as it represents a qualitative advantage. Conversely, the absence of such specific mentions can imply the use of more cost-effective production methods.

Therefore, while expecting to uncover substantial “secrets” through these communications is naïve and indicative of a misunderstanding of the industry, discerning artists can still gather valuable information regarding the relative quality and safety of pigments based on the specificity and nature of the manufacturers' responses.

8. Conclusions

One can find their pigments' many physical and chemical properties by doing the following test. First, one can find out the magnetic properties of the pigments. If a magnet sticks to the pigment bottle, it likely contains metal compounds, such as Iron oxides, particularly Black Iron Oxide (CI 77499), also known as magnetite. This does not inherently imply health risks, as synthetic iron oxides used in approved pigments are safe and regulated.

One can perform the “water test” by spilling a drop of pigment into a class of water (no shaking or stirring is needed). If the pigment floats and appears oily, it's likely Furnace Black, derived from burning petroleum in a furnace. This pigment's organic nature means it's rich in carbon-hydrogen compounds but unsuitable for powder brows due to its intense color and deep skin penetration. Ideal for eyeliner but not brows. If the pigment dyes the water instantly, like berry juice, it's probably Channel Black, with very small particles and high opacity. Best used for shading, but caution is advised for brow procedures due to potential bluish healing. If the pigment forms small droplets, it's likely Thermal Black, with larger inorganic carbon particles, suitable for brow pigmentation due to its brownish or anthracite undertones.

When making conclusions, one should know that claims of "seeing actual particles" are exaggerated. The size of pigment particles, typically between 100-1000 nm (0.0001 to 0.001 mm), is far below the human eye's resolution limit. What's observed are behaviors of pigment aggregates, not individual particles.

Additionally, one can spill pigment onto the napkin and see how it is absorbed. That napkin absorption test can reveal the physical properties of pigment droplets. Significant absorption through the napkin indicates the presence of smaller particle pigments like "Furnace Black" or "Channel Black," unsuitable for brow procedures due to high opacity and small size. Conversely, minimal absorption with a brownish hue suggests larger particle pigments like "Thermal Black," which is more appropriate for brow applications.

A viable method to understand the true color better is creating the drawdowns. Such drawdowns are an effective way to determine a pigment's true color or subtone. By thinly spreading the pigment on paper, artists can observe its real color, differing from the concentrated mass tone visible in the bottle. This method is crucial for matching pigments accurately with the client's natural brow color and is especially useful for determining how pigments might heal in lighter skin tones.

Direct communication with pigment producers provides insights into pigment quality and safety. Manufacturers often highlight the use of premium components or advanced methods, such as larger particle Black 7 or silanized iron oxide. The specificity of their responses can guide artists in assessing the quality of pigments, although groundbreaking discoveries are unlikely. Understanding these nuances can aid in making informed choices about pigment selection.

How to understand your pigmetns

1. Background

2. The Magnet Test

Observations on the Magnetic Properties

Magnetic Properties of Red Iron Oxide (CI 77491)

Differences in magnetite and hematite magnetic properties

Magnetic properties propose no actual health risks

Allergic Reactions and Sensitivities

Regulatory Compliance

Conclusions about the safety of iron oxides

.

3. “Particle size” test

Oil or gas origin

Oily appearance - Furnace Black (Black 2)

“Flaky” appearance - Channel Black or Thermal Black

Larger “flakes” or droplets - Black 7

Iron oxide vs. Black 7

4. “Particle Size” in Pigments

Structure of Pigment Particles

The true particle size

Limitations of human vision

Conclusions from the “Water Test”

5. Napkin Absorption Test

Extension to water test

6. Understanding color with Drawdowns

Executing an Effective Drawdown

7. Getting info from producers

Do not be naive

Observations

8. Conclusions