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Basics of creating pixels to powder brows

Jan 04, 2024, Update: Jan 04, 2024, author: Powderbrows.com / Holistic PMU
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"When you begin your journey with powder brows, you'll often hear the term "creating pixels." What exactly are these "pixels," how do you craft them, what ensures their longevity, and which mistakes should you avoid for optimal pixelation? These are fundamental questions every powder brow artist should have clear answers to. This article is designed to demystify the concept of pixels, guiding you through their creation, maintenance, and the common pitfalls to avoid, ensuring your journey in powder brows is informed and successful."

1. Background


This article draws insights from interviews with 62 experienced pigmentation artists specializing in powder brows, hairstrokes, and microblading. Most interviewed artists boast over three years of experience. Their insights come from research projects conducted between 2020-2023, many of which are still active. The participating artists predominantly hail from the EU (48), with additional contributions from the UK (8) and the US (6). The observations from these interviews have been critically reviewed by two seasoned dermatologists, one of whom has additional expertise in cellular biology.

The primary aim of this article is to offer actionable and practical advice for mastering the powder brows technique and the art of creating pixelated brows. The insights presented here are designed to be valuable to both novice and experienced artists alike.

2. Pixels in context of powder brows


In the realm of powder brows, a 'pixel' is essentially a tiny dot-like wound created by the needle of a PMU (Permanent Makeup) machine. These delicate wounds are carefully crafted into the dermal layer of the skin, ideally reaching the papillary dermis, where the pigment is intended to be absorbed. Once in place, the human immune system works to retain this pigment, as the pigment molecules are not immediately broken down.

Grasping the concept of pixels is vital when working with powder brows or any permanent or semi-permanent makeup. At their essence, pixels are the foundational units of pigmentation, playing a crucial role in the transfer of pigment into the skin. Over time, some artists have shrouded this concept in mystery, proposing the existence of "different" types of pixels tailored for specific skin types or areas. However, this notion doesn't hold up under technical or dermatological scrutiny. In reality, there's only one type of pixel: the site where pigment resides within the skin wound.

Punctuation Wound – Deciphering "Different Pixels”

The wound created by the PMU needle, essentially the space where pigment is deposited, can vary. This variance is what defines the so-called "shape" of the pixel. When discussing different "pixel" shapes, it's crucial to acknowledge that the needle's mechanical movement largely determines this aspect from a dermatological standpoint. To understand the "mistakes that kill perfect pixels," one must first distinguish between a "perfect" and an "imperfect" pixel. Grasping the nuances of the wound creation and pigment placement is fundamental. Recognizing how the shape of the wound influences the final appearance of the pixel is vital for refining techniques and achieving the desired effect with precision.

Dose of Realism

In the quest for the elusive "perfect pixels," injecting a dose of realism is essential. This pursuit is akin to chasing a unicorn; in most cases, pixels won't maintain their initial sharpness and will eventually fade into a softer, shaded appearance on the skin. This outcome doesn't necessarily reflect the artist's skill; it's an inevitable result influenced by many factors. Variables like skin type, thickness, oiliness, and the client's lifestyle all play significant roles. Even the slightest deviation from ideal technical execution by the artist can make achieving long-lasting pixels nearly unattainable.

However, under the right circumstances, such as dry skin and no prior carbon-based pigmentation, pixels can remain distinct for months. This scenario represents the gold standard that artists aim for. Achieving sharp pixels immediately after the procedure is a strong indicator of correct technique - the right depth, speed, and pressure were likely used. Remember, while the long-term fading of pixels is often unavoidable, the quality of your work immediately post-procedure reflects your technical proficiency and understanding of the craft.

3. Pixel shapes


The Ideal "Perfect" Pixel

In powder brows, the ideal pixel is a flawlessly round dot with consistent color and sharp edges post-healing. From a mechanical perspective, the needle creates these wounds at a precise 90-degree angle, penetrating deep enough for pigment retention but not so deep as to blur the pixel's edges. Unlike the digital realm, where pixels are squares, the perfect pixel in powderbBrows is an immaculate circle.

The Problematic "Comma" Shape

When pixels go awry, the most common undesirable shape is the "comma." This shape deviates from the ideal round dot, featuring an elongated "tail." Such a shape arises when the needle, operating at high speeds, covers too large an area. If the artist doesn't skillfully maneuver the needle, it can tear the skin rather than create the desired compact wounds. This tear forms the "tail" of the "comma," often resulting from incorrect needle movement or angle.

The "Oval" Pixel Variation

Like the "comma," oval pixels result from a fast-moving needle combined with slower hand movement. These appear as short lines, a series of wounds placed side by side. While a perfect pixel forms a tight circle from closely spaced wounds, oval pixels are more elongated, occurring when the fast-moving needle overstays its welcome in one spot, elongating the pixel shape.

The "Overgrown" Pixels

Lastly, we have overgrown pixels, which are essentially oversized pixel areas. They occur when the needle's strokes are so numerous that the pixel swells beyond its ideal size. This leads to excessive pigment absorption, causing the pixel's edges to blur and the color to darken. Essentially, this means too many small wounds are clustered together, and the surplus of pigment induces a more intense inflammatory response in the Dermis. The result is the unwanted look of large, blurred, "overgrown" pixels.

4. The life-cycle of a “pixel”


To fully comprehend the roundness and durability of a pixel in powder brows, it's essential to explore the skin's process of retaining pigment. Most artists understand that the PMU (Permanent Makeup) machine's needle penetrates the epidermal level and reaches the skin's dermal layer. Here, pigment particles are introduced into the wound created. Regardless of the pigment's claimed natural composition, these particles are invariably foreign to the human body.

The Immune Response and Inflammation

Once foreign substances infiltrate the body, the immune system activates. White blood cells, specifically a type known as Macrophages, rush to neutralize these intruders. While white blood cells can usually digest many foreign bodies, they struggle with pigments, which are indigestible even if they're natural. Unable to break down the pigment, Macrophages absorb and isolate the particles, acting as a barrier between the pigment molecules and the body.

The Five Potential Fates of Pigment Particles



Implanted pigment particles within a pixel can undergo five different fates.

  • Immediate Phagocytosis and Lymphatic System Transport. Phagocytic cells quickly absorb the pigment particles and transport them to the lymphatic system, the body's natural response to dermal trauma.
  • Undesirable Migration to Hypodermis or Blood Vessels. If particles penetrate too deeply, they may persist in the lipid-rich hypodermis or, less commonly, transfer directly to blood vessels. This can lead to blurred pixels, uneven edges, or misshapen forms.
  • Engulfment and Residence within Dermal Macrophages. Macrophages engulf pigment particles and serve as long-term repositories within the dermal layer, potentially enhancing the pigment's longevity.
  • Agglomeration and Encapsulation by Fibroblasts. Pigment particles may cluster and become encapsulated by fibroblasts, forming a protective shell that impacts the pigment's stability and visibility.
  • Integration into the Extracellular Matrix (ECM). Some particles become trapped within the ECM, which provides structural support to cells. This entrapment stabilizes the particles, affecting their movement and fading rate.

Fading of Pixels

A macrophage's life cycle is shorter than a pigment particle's. As macrophages holding the pigment eventually release it, new macrophages take over. Sometimes, if a new macrophage doesn't capture the molecule, it moves to the lymph nodes, causing the pixel to fade and eventually disappear.

This complex process underscores the importance of precision, skill, and a deep understanding of skin responses in achieving desirable powder brows. Each step is crucial in determining the pigments' appearance and longevity, from creating the wound to the immune system's reaction.

Creating Perfect Pixels

Understanding how to craft perfect pixels is essential for achieving excellence in powder brows. Perfection hinges on methodically avoiding common errors that compromise the aesthetic outcome. This process demands precision and attention to detail, considering several crucial factors.

5. Avoiding incorrect needle positioning


The needle's entry and exit trajectory must be impeccably flat to ensure that the pigment molecules primarily stay within the epidermal layer at the insertion and exit points. The deepest part of the needle's movement, the core of the pixel, should remain in the dermis, healing into a perfectly round dot. Many issues with pixel perfection in powder brows stem from inaccuracies in this vital process.

The angle at which the needle penetrates the skin is critical when creating a pixelated brow look. A deviation from the ideal 90-degree angle can lead to excessive pigment insertion and diagonal wounds, resulting in misshapen pixels like commas or ovals.

For novices, it's advisable to steer clear of "advanced techniques" meant for more experienced artists, which often involve angling the needle differently to create darker areas or to insert pigment in tougher skin areas. Maintaining the needle at a strict 90-degree angle throughout is the safest route to avoid these common pitfalls.

Understanding the Impact of Skin Damage

Artists transitioning from microblading to machine work might underestimate the potential skin damage a machine can cause. Holding the machine too long over a spot, even at the correct angle, can lead to excessive pigment spread within the dermis, resulting in larger, sometimes bluish, dark dots with irregular edges.

When in doubt, it's better to err on caution. Perform the procedure with a lighter touch rather than lingering too long at any point. This approach reduces the risk of over-pigmentation and unnecessary skin damage, fostering more accurate and aesthetically pleasing pixels. 

6. Importance of skin stretching


Mastering Skin Stretch for Pixel Perfection

Adequate skin stretching is non-negotiable for creating perfect pixels. Without taut skin, achieving the desired precision is nearly impossible. This is a common challenge, especially for students who have predominantly practiced on latex or artificial skin, as real human skin presents different behaviors. The skin's thickness, the specific area of the brow being worked on, and the client's age are among the factors influencing how the skin responds to the procedure.

The Three-Finger Stretching Technique

The three-finger stretching technique is a critical method for ensuring proper skin tautness. It involves using the thumb and index finger of one hand and the pinky finger of the hand holding the machine to stretch the skin in three directions. This tri-directional stretch is essential for providing a stable and optimal canvas for pixel creation.

Practicing and Perfecting the Technique

Achieving the right stretch is something that requires practice and familiarity. Even when practicing latex, simulating the correct stretching technique is important. This builds muscle memory and prepares you for working with actual clients. This technique helps transition smoothly from practice skins to delivering high-quality results on real human skin, ensuring each pixel is placed precisely and carefully.

7. Hand speed in pixel creation


Aligning Hand and Machine Speed for Precision In the delicate art of powder brows, the harmony between hand movement and machine speed is crucial for crafting perfect pixels. If your hand moves too fast, then the machine's speed must be adjusted accordingly to match. This balance is vital to prevent the "tearing" effect in the skin, which can lead to less-than-ideal results.

Visualizing Extremes to Understand the Balance

Consider two extreme scenarios: a needle moving extremely slowly and speeding through. When the needle's movement is too slow or stationary, it scratches the skin, leading to unwanted linear shapes or "commas" instead of neat, round pixels. On the other hand, an excessively fast needle can create a series of wounds too close together, resulting in lines instead of distinct, individual pixels.

Finding the Right Rhythm Through Practic

e The key to mastering this balance is practice, ideally on latex, where you can closely monitor the size and shape of the pixels and adjust the machine speed or hand movement as needed. Experienced artists often note that finding the right speed is a personal journey influenced by individual preferences and techniques. There's no one-size-fits-all speed, but new artists should avoid patterns that produce "commas" or "oval pixels." These might look acceptable from afar but reveal their imperfections upon closer inspection.

8. Optimizing hand support


The Importance of Stable Hand Support

Achieving pixel perfection in powder brows isn't just about the technique or equipment; it's also about how you physically support your hand during the procedure. This aspect, often overlooked, plays a significant role in pixel shaping. Many new artists hesitate to establish firm hand support on the client's head, fearing it might be uncomfortable or intrusive. However, stable hand support is crucial for precision.

Finding the Right Support Spot

The appropriate spot for hand support typically involves applying pressure to areas like the forehead, temple, or near the cheekbone. The ideal location varies based on the artist's position relative to the client. What's important is ensuring a broad contact area between the artist's glove and the client's skin for stability.

Overcoming the Air Suspension Error

New artists often minimize this contact area, leading to a situation where the hand holding the machine is virtually suspended in the air. This lack of support makes it extremely challenging to create perfect pixels due to the instability it causes. The remedy is straightforward but requires a bit of confidence.

Communicating and Establishing Comfort

Communicate openly with your client. Explain why stable hand support is essential for the best results. Most clients will understand and appreciate your dedication to quality. Once you've discussed it, confidently find a comfortable area on the client's head to rest your hand. This secure base will enhance your precision and reduce fatigue, allowing you to maintain focus and steadiness throughout the procedure. Remember, your confidence and clear communication will put the client at ease, making it easier for you to secure the necessary support for creating those perfect pixels.

9. Mastering machine properties


The Significance of Machine Knowledge

In the pursuit of pixel perfection in powder brows, understanding the intricacies of your PMU machine is non-negotiable. Each machine in the industry has its unique set of properties, including needle lengths and operational speeds. Especially with machines in the lower price range, you might encounter limitations like reduced power at higher speeds, which can affect the longevity and visibility of the pixels you create.

Matching Cartridges and Machines

Another layer of complexity involves the compatibility between machines and cartridges. Specific cartridges may yield better results with certain machines, affecting your work's overall quality and precision. It's not enough to follow advice from trainers or online tutorials regarding speeds and cartridge types. You must understand the context of their recommendations: what machine are they using, and how does its functionality compare to yours?

Investing Time in Machine Mastery

We've delved into various machines, discussing their strengths and weaknesses. To truly excel in your craft, dedicate time to understand your machine's capabilities and limitations thoroughly. This knowledge will empower you to make informed decisions about techniques and settings, ultimately enhancing your ability to create flawless pixels.

10. Refining techniques for powder prows


Understanding Needle Dynamics

Achieving excellence in powder brows hinges on mastering the needle's "landing" and "take-off" as it punctures and exits the skin. Imagine a needle's entrance like an airplane's landing: if it's too fast or steep, akin to a crash, it forces excessive pigment into the dermal layer, akin to inserting too much pigment. A similar abruptness in the needle's exit can tear the skin, resulting in an undesired "tail" on your pixel.

The aim is for both insertion and exit to be smooth, slow, and measured. This approach reduces the risk of micro-tails and ensures that the pigment primarily stays within the epidermis, healing into a neat, round shape with clear edges.

Enhancing Needle Movement

The solution involves increasing the needle's amplitude or the range of its movement. This added distance allows for a more gradual "landing strip" as the needle enters the skin and a smoother "lift-off" as it exits, minimizing the risk of scratches or tears.

Understanding Cartridge and Needle Dynamics

A deeper understanding of your needle cartridge's construction can significantly impact your technique. Know whether the needle is rigidly fixed or has flexibility when moved in opposite directions. Is the needle inside the cartridge reinforced for rigidity, or is it entirely flexible? These factors can influence how the needle interacts with the skin and, consequently, the quality of the pixels you create.

Additionally, many artists find that a whipping motion is most effective when the needle moves in a direction that allows visual contact with the penetration point. This technique provides better control and precision, enabling the artist to create cleaner, more consistent pixels.

11. Over-numbing in powder brows


The Pitfall of Over-Numbing

Over-numbing the skin is a common error among beginners, particularly when instructed to concentrate on one brow at a time. This method can over-stress the skin, making the procedure increasingly uncomfortable for the client. In an attempt to alleviate discomfort, applying more anesthetic can inadvertently lead to the skin absorbing pigment poorly. The result? Uneven and imperfect pixels after healing.

Striking a Balance

A more effective strategy is to alternate between brows when signs of skin stress appear. Given the variability in how different clients' skin reacts to trauma, there's no one-size-fits-all approach. The key is to vigilantly observe the skin's condition and consider the client's feedback on discomfort (considering individual pain thresholds). Swelling or redness are indicators to switch to the other brow or even pause the procedure entirely, particularly with delicate skin types. It's not uncommon for experienced artists to halt the session and continue during a touch-up to prioritize the skin's health.

Preparation and Alternatives to Excessive Numbing

Many artists prepare the skin with softening balms and pigment lubricants, often based on silicone or shea butter. These products can facilitate smoother pigment entry into the skin, potentially negating the need for excessive anesthetic use. This technique can lead to more consistently perfect pixels without over-numbing the skin.

12. Conclusions


Understanding the Essence of Pixels

In powder brows, 'pixels' are those minuscule, ideally round, needle wounds filled with pigment, meticulously crafted using a pigmentation machine. Achieving pixelated areas in brows has become a hallmark of quality for many artists. However, due to various factors - some related to the quality of pigmentation and most not - pixels typically don't maintain their integrity in the skin over time. Nonetheless, producing "perfect pixels" immediately after the procedure is widely regarded as indicative of the artist's high-caliber work.

Characterizing the Ideal Pixel

The quintessential pixel boasts a round shape with crisp, distinct edges. On the other hand, imperfect pixels may take on various forms: "comma" shapes with a tail-like extension, oval shapes due to incorrect needle speed and pressure, or oversized, "overgrown" pixels resulting from excessive pigment concentration in one area.

The Fate of Pigment Particles

Once implanted into the skin, pigment particles can undergo five potential fates: immediate transport to the lymphatic system, undesirable migration to the hypodermis or bloodstream, clustering, and encapsulation by fibroblasts, integration into the ECM (Extracellular Matrix), or gradual fading as they break down and get absorbed by the lymphatic system.

Avoiding Common Mistakes for Pixel Perfection

Achieving perfect pixels revolves around sidestepping seven critical errors.

  • Maintain the Correct Needle Angle. Always ensure the needle enters the skin at a precise 90-degree angle.
  • Proper Skin Stretching. Utilize the "three-point system" to ensure the skin is adequately taut.
  • Align Hand and Machine Speed. The hand's movement speed must be harmonious with the machine's speed.
  • Stable Hand Support. A steady hand is vital for precise and consistent pixel creation.
  • Machine Knowledge. Familiarity with the specific properties of the pigmentation machine in use is essential.
  • Mastering the Whip Movement. Understand the flexibility of the needle cartridge and refine the whip movement technique.
  • Avoid Over-Numbing. Excessive numbing can affect skin tension and pixel formation. Consider using skin butter and lubricant boosters as alternatives or supplements to prepare the skin and facilitate pigment particle inflow.
 
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Comments
 
Jutta
Thursday, Jan 18, 2024

I agree with those suggestions. I know that often the pixels disappear but I still want to create pixels. Whatever others say I think that pixels are super-imporant and set your work apart!

Veronica
Saturday, Jan 06, 2024

Easy to read piece, totally love it and I got some new ideas. Keep it going – give me more techniques related stuff! :)

Syilvia
Thursday, Jan 04, 2024

Very intreresting and useful article. I took a training about a year ago and I think this trianing (3 days) was good, but I did not get so deep info about pixels. I have read many articles here, and I will join too.


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