How to do powder brows on mature skin?

Videos

Powder Brows

Procedure, Techniques, Pigments, Aftercare...

Microblading

Procedure, Technique, Patterns, Supplies, Retention...

Ombre Brows

Soft Ombre, Pixels, Whip, Pendulum techniques...

Hairstrokes

Nano Brows, Hairstrokes patterns, Natural PMU...

Combo Brows

Powder + Miroblading, Powder + Hairstrokes...

Marketing

Instagram, Facebook, TikTok, Organic growth...

Removal

Saline, Lactic Acid, Laser removal procedure...

Articles

Powder Brows

Procedure, Techniques, Pigments, Aftercare...

Microblading

Procedure, Technique, Patterns, Supplies, Retention...

Ombre Brows

Soft Ombre, Pixels, Whip, Pendulum techniques...

Hairstrokes

Nano Brows, Hairstrokes patterns, Cashmiere...

Getting started

Starting artist adivce, practical first steps...

Marketing

Offline marketing, Online marketing, website, domains...

Practical Tips

Guides, Tips, Suggestions, Walkthroughs, Case studies...

Removal

Saline, Lactic Acid, Laser removal procedure...

Tops Pricing

2. Understanding Skin Aging

A picture of a young attractive woman in classic clothing on the left and vector graphic of skin layers of young skin and a vector graphic of skin layers of old skin on the right. Text young skin and text old skin refer to those, respectively.

To master the Powder Brows technique on mature skin, particularly for women aged 50 and above, it's essential to understand the unique characteristics of aging skin. Let's delve into some of the changes women in this age group often experience.

Hormonal Changes and Menopause

Starting in their 50s, many women undergo menopause, resulting in significant hormonal shifts. Lower estrogen levels contribute to reduced oil production, making the skin drier and less supple. Additionally, collagen production decreases, which is also due to lower estrogen. This leads to skin losing its strength and elasticity, making it more susceptible to wrinkles.

Vascular Changes

Another critical factor to consider in the Powder Brows procedure is the increased vascularity in aging skin. Typically, around the ages of 50-55, the skin becomes more "vascular." This means blood vessels are more fragile, leading to easier bruising. The skin also thins out and becomes more transparent, causing veins to be more visible.

Decreased Thickness and Elasticity

The skin starts to thin due to less production of vital proteins like collagen and elastin. This affects the skin's firmness and makes pigmentation more challenging to achieve. As women move into their 60s, their skin loses even more youthful firmness.

Wrinkles and Fine Lines

Thinner skin also highlights wrinkles and fine lines. Decreased hydration and water retention are partly due to a reduction in the skin's natural hyaluronic acid levels. This results in drier skin and a greater likelihood of irritation.

Age Spots and Decreased Healing Capacity

Over time, hyperpigmentation and age spots become more prevalent due to accumulated sun exposure. While these aren't direct obstacles for the Powder Brows procedure, it's crucial to note that the skin's healing capacity diminishes with age. This impacts how well the skin can recover from PMU procedures. In older clients, the skin may also be more sensitive to products used in Powder Brows, such as dyes, pigments, and anesthetics.

3. Pigments for Mature Skin

Attractive woma's face in her sixties on the left, a large drop of olive colored pigment in the middle, and a üicture of young attractive woman face on the right.

Choose Mineral Pigments Over Hybrid

Most artists recommend using inorganic (mineral) pigments instead of hybrid or organic ones for mature skin. These inorganic pigments offer better stability and retention in older skin. The end results tend to look softer and matte, making them a good choice for less experienced artists with mature clients. In terms of color index codes, these pigments usually fall between CI 77,000 and CI 77,999.

It's important to note that even though increased vascularity in mature skin can improve color retention, a considerable amount of the inorganic pigment applied will peel off post-procedure. This is a characteristic of inorganic pigments, regardless of the skin type they're applied to.

Color Selection - Go 1 to 2 Tones Lighter

For color selection, artists often agree on using the Fitzpatrick scale. They typically find the exact skin match for a younger client and then opt for a one to two-tone lighter pigment for mature skin. Specifically, if the client is over 60 and has high skin vascularity, artists recommend choosing a pigment that's two tones lighter than what would be used for that client if they were 30-40 years younger.

Pigment Mixture - Green Undertones and Olive Modifier

Experienced artists frequently recommend pigments with green undertones for older skin. The only exception would be if the skin's undertone clearly doesn't align with green, which is rare. Adding a drop of olive or yellow modifier to the pigment mix is also suggested when performing Powder Brows on mature skin.

4. Suggestions for the Procedure

An attractive woman on the left in classic clothing and a pigmentation machine approaching a woman's face who is lying down on the right.

Different Drawing Strategy

For drawing the brow outline on older clients, avoiding overly thick shapes is essential. Specifically, the lower line should often be slightly more curved than younger clients. The artist should avoid bold or "Instagram-style" brows despite the client's request. For older customers, a natural shape is always the best choice.

Endpoint Height is Key

When aiming to lift the client's gaze, elevating the endpoint of the brow (point number 3) can be an intelligent strategy. For younger or middle-aged clients, the rule is that this endpoint should be vertically between the beginning points of the upper and lower arch. However, for older clients, the endpoint can align vertically with the starting point of the upper arch.

Full Confirmation of Shape is Essential

To prevent any future disagreements, the artist should ask the client to scrutinize the brow shape from all angles before proceeding to the pigmentation stage. Contrary to what some novice artists may think, older clients do care deeply about the shape and details. Failing to achieve a natural look, especially if the brows are too thick or dark, can harm the artist's reputation. The client should examine the brow shape in front of a mirror from every viewpoint. Providing a hand mirror can also be helpful, allowing the client to assess the shape from various directions.

Use Makeup to Fill in the Outline if Necessary

To minimize any issues, one helpful technique is to fill in the outline with regular makeup. This gives the client a clearer idea of how their brows will look post-procedure. Experienced artists often use this method, particularly when the transformation from the client's natural brows will be significant.

Powdering vs. Hairstroke Pattern and Combo Brows

While some artists specializing in hairstroke patterns insist that this technique is age-appropriate for all, there's no wide agreement. Most artists interviewed recommended powdering as the primary technique for clients aged 60 and above. The same holds true for microblading. Though it can be done for clients over 60 in some instances, powdering generally produces better results. Just so you know, for clients aged 50 and up, it's common to combine microblading with Powder Brows, resulting in the Combo Brows procedure.

Vascularity and Retention - Do Fewer Layers

During the procedure, it's important to remember that older skin is thinner. A somewhat surprising benefit of this is nearly flawless color retention. In highly vascular skin, for example, almost 85-95%, and sometimes even close to 100%, of the pigment can be retained. Consequently, the number of pigment layers applied during the procedure should be substantially reduced, sometimes even halved.

Very Thin Skin - Use the Brushing Technique

Compared to standard skin types, the approach to pigmentation needs to be different for mature skin. Artists should use a light "brushing" technique, which basically means gliding gently over the skin with the pigmenting machine's needle. This is often described by experienced artists as "brushing off the dust from the skin." This minimizes damage to the thin skin layers and reduces the risk of over-traumatizing the area.

Effects of Gravity - Request Frequent Sit-Ups During the Procedure

Both during the initial drawing and the procedure itself, the impact of gravity on older skin must be considered. To counteract this, ask the client to sit up and look straight ahead with open eyes. The goal is to achieve the most natural look possible. Often, natural asymmetries need to be corrected during the mapping process. Professional artists rely more on visual cues than on measurements when the client is lying down.

Final Phase While Sitting

Some experienced artists make the finishing touches to Powder Brows on mature skin while the client sits. Though this may not be advisable for less experienced artists due to reduced hand support, the benefit is that less pressure is needed for mature skin.

Longer Healing Time Required

A longer time between the initial treatment and the touch-up is recommended for mature skin. For clients over 50, no less than 8 weeks should pass before a retouch, and for those over 60, many artists recommend waiting ten weeks. This extended healing time is due to older clients' slower rate of new skin cell formation.

5. Aftercare for Mature Skin

Attractive young woman's face on the left and attractive older woman's face on the right and an open notepad with a page titled "Checklist" in the middle.

The basic aftercare for mature skin isn't much different from that of younger skin, but there are specific factors to consider.

Firstly, mature skin tends to be drier. Because of this, it's essential to gently rinse the eyebrows several times a day during the first 24-48 hours after the procedure. A slightly damp cotton pad usually works well for this.

It's also crucial to educate elderly clients about the importance of not touching their eyebrows during the healing phase. This includes avoiding scratching or trying to remove any scabs from the brow area. The success of the pigmentation greatly depends on following these guidelines, so ensure the client understands this.

Makeup and Substances

Many older clients are accustomed to applying daily makeup. It's essential to inform them that they should avoid applying any makeup or substances to the brows during the healing phase until the retouching appointment. Importantly, creams containing retinol should also be avoided near the brow area.

Retouch Appointment Can't Be Skipped

Even though the retouch appointment might be scheduled later than usual, it should not be skipped after ten weeks. This is true even if the client feels that "the brows are okay." The retouch is necessary for corrections and long-term retention of the pigment. When it comes to the actual retouching procedure, the artist may decide that there is practically no need for intensive retouching and does it very lightly or not at all. However, a visit to the artist should be scheduled, and the artist should take a look at the brows.

6. Conclusions

As skin ages, it undergoes changes like becoming thinner and drier, losing its structure, and slowing down cell regeneration. These factors all influence how Powder Brows are done on mature skin.

For pigment choice, use inorganic pigments instead of organic or hybrid types. Also, pick a color that's 1-2 tones lighter than you'd use for younger skin. Many experienced artists favor pigments with green or yellow undertones and may add an olive modifier if it complements the client's base skin tone. Regarding the seasoned artists we consulted when gathering information for this article, many said they prefer yellow undertone inorganic pigments.

In the drawing phase, lift the endpoint of the brow, but keep the brow shape naturally and not too thick. Many artists even use makeup to fill in the outline, giving the client a clearer idea of the final look.

During the procedure, use fewer layers of pigment than you would for younger skin. The application technique should be gentle, akin to "brushing," to minimize skin trauma. Retention in mature, vascular skin is often excellent.

Be aware of the "effects of gravity." Ask the client to sit up several times during the procedure to get an accurate view of how the brows will look.

For aftercare, keep the brows adequately moist, especially in the first 48 hours. A retouch shouldn't be skipped but can be scheduled later than usual - often after 10 weeks - to ensure the brows have fully healed.

Readers suggest