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Why brows turn blue?

Nov 01, 2023, Update: Nov 01, 2023, author: Powderbrows.com / Holistic PMU
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"Brows or eyeliner turning “bluish” is something that can be studied, understood, and prevented. This article dives into the reasons behind this phenomenon and offers practical solutions to avoid it."

1. Background


Many artists have asked why pigments in the skin turn blue and how to prevent this outcome. The answers to these questions are often easier to understand in hindsight but can be counterintuitive to predict. For this article, we have compiled material from interviews with 46 PMU artists, as well as from research projects conducted by the Powderbrows.com Research Center between 2019 and 2023. Several of these research projects are still ongoing. Of the interviewed artists, 32 are from EU countries, nine from the UK, and five from the US.

Additionally, we consulted two chemists, a dermatologist, and a physics specialist in optometry to systematize the results and make them more accessible to the public. While there were no significant differences in the artists' agreement with the reviewed statements, it's worth noting that even seasoned professionals sometimes hold incomplete or sub-optimal views about the causes of certain phenomena related to pigments in the skin. In this article, we aim to provide a concise yet thorough explanation of why pigments appear bluish on the skin and how to avoid it.

2. Understanding of “seeing” colors


There are no colors

Colors, as we perceive them, are not innate qualities of objects themselves but rather are created by how light—composed of electromagnetic waves—interacts with objects and is subsequently interpreted by our brains

Interactions of Light with Objects

Upon striking an object, light can be absorbed, reflected, scattered, or transmitted, and part of it can also be transformed into thermal energy. The colors visible to us are primarily due to the light that is reflected and scattered. An object absorbs specific wavelengths and reflects others, which then reach our eyes and inform our perception of color. This is why objects that absorb more light, appearing darker, can feel warmer to the touch; they convert more light into heat.

The Role of the Retina in Color Perception

Within our retinas lie specialized cells called photoreceptors - cones for color and rods for low-light conditions. These cells transduce light into electrical impulses that the brain interprets to form the sensation of color. This complex process is not merely biological but is also shaped by cognitive factors, as our past experiences and the context of our environment influence our color perception.

Color Constancy - Our brain does a lot of the work

Consider the phenomenon of color constancy, where, despite changes in illumination, we perceive the color of an object to be consistent. Our visual system allows us to recognize colors reliably, regardless of the lighting. This understanding of light and perception is especially relevant when discussing semi-permanent makeup, like Powder Brows. The pigments that technicians implant into the skin never inherently turn blue. Instead, it is the interplay of light's reflection, the skin's unique absorption qualities, and our brain's interpretation that can give rise to the perception of a blue tint in the brow color.

The human eye can only detect a limited range of electromagnetic waves, leaving many other wavelengths, such as radio waves, microwaves, gamma rays, ultraviolet radiation, infrared radiation, X-rays, and terahertz waves, beyond our sensory perception.

Visible Wavelengths in Nanometers

Within the visible spectrum to the human eye, specific wavelengths correspond to distinct colors. These wavelengths are measured in nanometers (nm) and generally span the following ranges:

An attractive woman on the left and lightwaves of different colors from purple to blue on the right.

Red: approximately 620-750 nm
Orange: approximately 590-620 nm
Yellow: approximately 570-590 nm
Green: approximately 495-570 nm
Light Blue: approximately 476-495 nm
Blue: approximately 450-476 nm
Violet: approximately 380-450 nm

The colors we perceive are determined by which wavelengths of light an object absorbs and which it reflects back to our eyes. For example, an object appears black if it absorbs all wavelengths of light and reflects none back to us. Conversely, an object appears white when it reflects all wavelengths of light. If an object absorbs all colors except for blue, it will appear blue to us.

In the context of pigments, understanding the particle size is crucial as it influences how light interacts with these particles. This is particularly relevant in industries like cosmetics and tattooing, where the color and its stability are paramount.

The difference between “recognizing colors” and “seeing” objects

Firstly, while our eyes can detect colors in the range of 380 to 700 nanometers (nm), the smallest object we can actually “see" - in terms of understanding its shape and how it occupies space - is much larger, around 100,000 nanometers. In simpler terms, we can sense color in very tiny things, but to actually "see" an object's shape, it has to be much bigger, with a diameter of 0.1 mm, the least.

Some examples of objects close to this size that you might be able to see with the naked eye include:

A strand of human hair is generally around 70,000 to 100,000 nanometers (or 0.07 to 0.1 mm) in diameter.
A grain of table salt, which can be around 100,000 nanometers (or 0.1 mm) across.
Refined sand grains can also be about 100,000 nanometers (or 0.1 mm) in size.

When it comes to detecting pigment particles ranging from around 100 nm to 600 nm in size in water with the naked eye, it is absolutely impossible. What we see in the water when a drop of pigment is added are actually groups of aggregates loosely suspended in the liquid carrier of the pigment. Thus, the trainers who “see” particles in the water must have superhuman abilities. Maybe they have, but this is unlikely; they probably mess up the terms.

Different sensitivity to wavelengths of light

Secondly, not all wavelengths within the visible range are equally easy for the human eye to detect. While our eyes can perceive light wavelengths from 380 to 700 nm, we are generally more sensitive to the lower end of this scale. That means colors like violet and blue, which have shorter wavelengths, are easier for us to notice than red, which has longer wavelengths. This is because the photoreceptor cells in our eyes, particularly the cones responsible for color vision, are more sensitive to shorter-wavelength light.

3. How "blue" light reflects


Understanding reflectance

To understand this, we need to understand the basics of Reflectance first. Reflectance measures the amount of incoming light that is reflected away from a material. When light strikes a surface, some is absorbed while some is reflected. The ratio of reflected to incoming light is termed the "reflectance" of the material. Reflectance can be wavelength-dependent, meaning it varies for different wavelengths (or colors) of light. This is why objects have colors; they reflect certain wavelengths while absorbing others. For example, a red apple reflects red wavelengths and absorbs most others, making it appear red to us.

Almost all solid objects, such as people, animals, houses, and pigment molecules, are "reflective." Light is either absorbed or reflected when it hits them, allowing these objects to stand out from their background. Each reflects light differently, giving them distinct colors. This is precisely what happens with pigment molecules in the skin. Their different absorption and reflection of light compared to the surrounding skin make them visible, whether they are in the form of "pixels," "hairstroke lines," or "shading" in brows.

Reflection Depends on Particle Size

How light reflects off an object is influenced by its size, which affects light scattering. For particle sizes around 100 nm and larger, we need to consider "Mie scattering," which is more intricate than the simpler "Rayleigh scattering," which explains why the sky looks blue.

Mie scattering depends on several factors: particle size, wavelengths of incoming light, and the refractive index of the surrounding medium. It predicts how a sphere of a given size and material will scatter light of different wavelengths while accounting for both absorption and scattering.


Particles 90-100 nm

At this size, particles are similar in size to the wavelengths of blue and violet light (approximately 380-495 nm). Mie scattering for these wavelengths is resonant, leading to more efficient scattering and, thus, a bluish appearance.

Particles 200-300 nm

These particles are larger and interact with a broader range of wavelengths, including green and light blue (approximately 450-570 nm), along with blue and violet. They may appear anthracite greenish due to their ability to scatter these colors.

Particles 500 nm and larger

At this scale, particles behave more like bulk materials in their interactions with light. They absorb a variety of wavelengths but also scatter both shorter violet and longer dark red wavelengths, giving them a brownish appearance.

The color we perceive is not only determined by the wavelengths that are most efficiently scattered but also by our eyes' sensitivity to different wavelengths. Calculating the exact relationship between particle size and color is complex due to the intricacies of Mie equations. However, in general terms, as particles grow in size, they interact with a broader range of wavelengths.

Mie scattering and retro reflectance

Retroreflectance is a specific type of reflectance where light or other electromagnetic waves are returned in the direction they came from with minimal scattering. This is unlike regular reflective surfaces, which scatter light in multiple directions. You might be familiar with retroreflective materials from "safety" clothing or road signs, which appear very bright when illuminated by a light source like car headlights. These materials are designed to bounce the light back towards the source, making them highly visible.

Retroreflectance is more about visibility rather than color perception, but it can also impact how vivid or bright color appears under specific lighting conditions. When it comes to different organic and inorganic colorants placed into the skin, they can exhibit varying levels of retroreflectance. The brightness of the color correlates with the retroreflectiveness that is directed back to our eyes. Therefore, the contrast and visibility of the pigment inside the skin are not only functions of selective wavelength absorption but also the retroreflectiveness of the pigment particles.

Mie scattering and retro-reflectance both contribute to how we perceive pigments in the skin, but they do so in different ways. While Mie scattering focuses on how particles of different sizes interact with light to create color, retro-reflectance enhances visibility by directing light back toward its source. The combination of these two phenomena means that the color and brightness of pigment particles in the skin can be influenced by both their size and their retro-reflective properties.

For example, a pigment particle that is effective at Mie scattering may appear a certain color. Still, its visibility could be further enhanced if it also exhibits strong retro-reflective characteristics. This dual interaction allows for a nuanced understanding of how pigments appear under various lighting conditions, providing more control and predictability in applications like cosmetics and tattooing.

4. Conclusions from physical reasons


Understanding why pigment appears blue within the skin comes down to recognizing how light interacts with pigment particles. When we see something as "blue," it means that blue (450-476 nm) and violet (380-450 nm) wavelengths of light are reflecting back to our eyes while all other wavelengths are being absorbed.

Creating this specific effect is possible from the physical perspective using “Gas Carbon Black” (CI 77 266), commonly referred to as "Pigment Black 6" or "Channel Black." This pigment uses the smallest particles possible to make the color as opaque and rich as possible.

However, that is just the physical perspective. As we shall see in the next section of the article, a lot depends on the actual end result of the procedure and the pigment amount entering the skin, which can often make the “truly organic” pigment of “Oil Cabon Black,” or Carbon Black 2 the most dangerous of all.

The size of the pigment particles also plays a role in how we perceive their color. Smaller particles are more likely to appear blue because they scatter light less, leading to a more concentrated color. On the other hand, larger particles (500 nm and above) behave more like bulk materials and interact differently with light. They are capable of absorbing a range of wavelengths. Still, their larger size also allows for the scattering of both shorter violet and longer dark red wavelengths, resulting in a brownish appearance.

The preliminary conclusion from the physics


To create a visual effect in the skin where the pigment appears "blue," you'll need a deeply opaque color. This color should interact with light in a way that absorbs all other colors except for blue and violet. The most effective way to achieve this is by using Carbon Black with small particle sizes (like Channel Black or "Gas Black," with a size of approximately 100 nm) as the colorant. This specific formation creates the necessary conditions for a "blue" appearance. Achieving the same effect with larger particle sizes or with pigments of any color other than black is unlikely from the pure physical perspective.

5. The Tyndall effect


To understand the practical possibility of brows turning blue, we have to analyze the pigment particles of CI 77 266 inside the human skin. That requires understanding the concepts of the Tyndall effect, the skin pH level, and the sheer quantity of pigment inserted into the skin.

The Tyndall effect is a phenomenon that occurs when light encounters particles that are smaller than its wavelength. In simpler terms, it's what happens when light hits small particles and gets scattered in different directions. You might have seen this effect in action when a beam of sunlight passes through a room filled with dust or when you shine a flashlight into the fog.

From blue sky to blue brows

The scattering of light due to the Tyndall effect is more prominent at shorter wavelengths, like blue and violet light. That's why, in situations where the Tyndall effect occurs, you often see a bluish tint. For example, the reason the sky appears blue during the day is largely due to the Tyndall effect scattering sunlight in the atmosphere.

Observations from the Tyndall effect In the context of dermatology and especially in procedures involving skin pigmentation, understanding the Tyndall effect is crucial. When pigments are injected into the skin and are subjected to light, the Tyndall effect can influence how those pigments appear. The size and type of the pigment particles, as well as their placement within the skin, can either enhance or reduce the Tyndall effect, thereby affecting the final color appearance.

Thus, we can conclude that the bluish appearance is influenced by both the size and arrangement of carbon particles in the skin. When these particles are optimized for interacting with blue wavelengths, and when other color-distorting elements are minimal, the result can be a more pronounced bluish tint.

6. Skin's pH level


When considering semi-permanent makeup options like Powder Brows, one of the most critical factors often overlooked is the skin's pH level and its influence on pigment implantation. In particular, the carbon black used can have significant implications for the ease of implantation and the risk of pigment migration, ultimately affecting the color result, including the dreaded "blue" effect.

Different Types of Carbon Black and Their Characteristics



Let's start by examining three common types of carbon black pigments.

  • Channel Black (also known as Black 6) - Made from gas, this pigment has particle sizes ranging from 90-100 nm. It contains about 19% hydrocarbons and a high percentage of elemental carbon, varying between 30-90%.

  • Furnace Black (or Black 2) - Derived from oil, it has larger particles, with sizes between 200-300 nm. This pigment contains up to 55% hydrocarbons and significantly less elemental carbon, approximately 8%.

  • Thermal Black (also known as Black 7) - Another gas-derived pigment, but with even larger particle sizes around 500 nm. It consists almost entirely of elemental carbon, at 99%.

 

7. Differences in water

A drop of petroleum oil-like black substance spreading in water on the left, water colored with separate rather even-sized dust-like chunks of small black matter on the right, and an attractive woman in a blue t-shirt on the far right.

Gas-derived Carbon Black

When you drop Thermal Black (Black 7) into water, it behaves much like mineral-based particles such as Black Iron Oxide. It's quite dense, and some of it sinks to the bottom. The water remains clear, showing clumps of insoluble particles, because Thermal Black is a pure inorganic component made of elemental Carbon—it doesn't dissolve in water.

On the other hand, Channel Black (Black 6) contains up to 20% organic (C-H) components. This makes it disperse more evenly in water, lightening the color of the water with smaller particle aggregates.

If you look at an image comparing the two, you'll notice some distinct differences. Both gas-derived Carbon blacks - Thermal and Channel Black - are on the right side of the image. Thermal Black has larger, heavier aggregates, while Channel Black creates a more even color in the water due to its smaller particle aggregates.

Oil-derived Carbon Black In contrast, Furnace Black (Black 2) behaves quite differently. As it is oil-derived it  acts more like petroleum oil when introduced to water. It's semi-soluble and oily, spreading out in various directions, creating a visibly different effect in the water (on the left).

8. Implantation factor


Ease of Implantation and Skin pH: The Hydrocarbon Factor

At first glance, one might assume that smaller particles, like those of Channel Black (Black 6), would be easier to implant into the skin. This is not the case. Oil-based Furnace Black (Black 2), with its larger particles, tends to implant into the skin more efficiently in a single pass than gas-based Channel Black.

Why is this so? The answer lies in the chemical composition of the pigment and its compatibility with the skin's environment, particularly the pH. Smaller particles often necessitate more oxygen bonds for stability, making them less acidic. Since skin pH largely involves hydrogen bonds, pigments with larger particle sizes- rich in organic hydrocarbons that contain hydrogen bonds - integrate into the skin more easily. In other words, Black 2, with up to 55% hydrocarbon content, meshes better with the skin than Black 6, which contains just 19% hydrocarbons.

Larger particles can be easier to implant

Some experts have proposed theories suggesting that smaller particle sizes could make pigment implantation more challenging due to these pigments being less compatible with the skin's pH. While it's not accurate to claim that a high concentration of oxygen in smaller particles makes them more alkaline, tests have shown that many pigments with smaller particle sizes do indeed have a pH that is less compatible with the skin environment.

Conversely, although larger particles don't inherently possess more acidic properties due to their oxygen concentration, studies have found that many of them do have a pH that is more compatible with the skin. Specifically, these tests indicate that larger particle pigments often contain more functional groups that can donate or accept hydrogen ions. This compatibility with the skin's pH facilitates easier implantation.

Human Aspect of Implantation

In considering the practical implications of why pigments might turn "blue" once implanted in the skin, it's crucial to factor in the human element—the skill and experience of the artist performing the implantation.

When examined from this angle, oil-based Carbon Black, also known as "Black 2," poses a significant risk. This is because its chemical and physical properties make it extremely easy to implant into the skin. In the hands of an inexperienced or naive artist, this ease of implantation can lead to the introduction of an excessive amount of organic carbon into the skin layers.

The approach for implanting pigments containing Furnace Black must differ fundamentally from the strategy used for mineral pigments. Treating them the same could lead to disastrous outcomes. Specifically, the sheer volume of organic carbon that could be inserted into the skin layers becomes dangerously high when using oil-based Carbon Black.

In most instances, artists may inadvertently implant such a large quantity of carbon when using petroleum-based Carbon Black CI 77266 that the result appears more "blue" than if Channel Black with its smaller particles had been used. Due to its lesser compatibility with skin pH and its smaller particle size, gas-based Channel Black is a considerably safer choice. It is less likely to permit a comparable volume of carbon molecules to reach the dermal layers of the skin.


"Blue brows," the skin melanin and Fitzpatrick scale

When examining the interaction of skin melanin on the Fitzpatrick scale and the propensity for brow pigmentation to adopt a bluish hue, we find that individuals with Fitzpatrick skin types 4, 5, and 6 may experience this more frequently. The increased melanin in these skin types can influence the underlying tones of pigments used in brow treatments, often resulting in a cooler, blue-toned appearance.

A common method to counteract this effect involves integrating a magenta pigment into the color formula applied during the procedure. Magenta, with its red and pink undertones, can warm up the brow color, helping to neutralize the cooler blue tones that may emerge over time.

However, it's crucial to recognize that the issue of brows turning blue is fundamentally an optical phenomenon. This is attributed to the behavior of carbon-based molecules in the skin, which, when exposed to light, reflect wavelengths that we perceive as blue. By adding more pigment particles to the skin that can scatter light, we can indeed create an optical correction. This additional scattering can make the blue less perceptible, but it's essential to acknowledge that the reflective property of carbon particles themselves remains unchanged. The strategy does not alter the carbon's intrinsic tendency to reflect blue light but rather adds complexity to the way light is absorbed and scattered, thereby affecting the color we see.


Conclusion on Why Pigment Turns Blue

As we've established, there's no inherently "blue" pigment; it's a matter of optics. Channel Carbon Black, with its smallest particle size (90-100nm), has the capacity to reflect wavelengths in a manner that appears bluish or violet to the human eye.

However, this optical behavior must be understood in the context of human skin. The Tyndall effect comes into play here, as the blue wavelengths that are not absorbed by the skin become more pronounced. To understand why a pigment appears blue, we must consider the factors that create an environment conducive to this optical phenomenon.

The skin's pH level and the chemical properties of Furnace Black, also known as Black 2, which can contain over 50% hydrocarbons, are key factors. In the hands of an artist with limited experience, using Black 2 and employing an implantation technique similar to that used for mineral pigments becomes a recipe for generating a "blue" appearance in treatments like eyebrow or eyeliner pigmentation.

9. How to prevent “blue” pigmentation



The solution to preventing pigments from appearing blue can be divided into three main strategies:

Incorporating larger elemental Carbon particles into the pigment formulation. This way, one can create a "pseudo-hybrid pigment" that contains a substantial amount of larger elemental Carbon. Utilizing Oxide Fused with Carbon, particularly in eyeliner applications, Opting for mineral pigments or hybrid pigments that incorporate Furnace Black or large Carbon particles (500 nm or larger).

Adding elemental Carbon


The key to preventing the bluish appearance is the choice of Carbon Black used in the pigment. A common solution is to mix Elemental Carbon (Black 7) with the pigment that contains Black 6. This combination reduces the tendency of the pigment to reflect blue light, thereby neutralizing the bluish hue.

Using Iron Oxide Fused with Carbon

An alternative option is to use Iron Oxide Fused with Carbon (sometimes called Gamma-Black), a specialized type of black pigment. In Iron Oxide Fused with Carbon, Carbon Black molecules are fused with mineral (inorganic) Iron Oxide molecules (CI 77499). When you're choosing a pigment, you'll often see both color indexes listed on the label (CI 77499 and CI 77266), indicating the inclusion of both types of black.

10. Black Iron Oxide Fused with Carbon


Black Iron Oxide (often denoted by its chemical formula Fe3O4) can be fused with carbon to create a stable, non-magnetic black pigment. The combination is typically labeled as "CI 77266 + 77499" on the ingredient lists of semi-permanent makeup pigments.

To fuse Black Iron Oxide with carbon, a chemical process called carbothermal reduction is commonly employed. In this process, a mixture of iron oxide and carbon is subjected to high temperatures in an inert atmosphere. The carbon is a reducing agent, stabilizing the iron oxide and eliminating its magnetic properties. Once stabilized, it's often rendered as a chemical formula like C Fe3O4, indicating the fusion of carbon with iron oxide.

Carbothermal reduction

Let us look closer at what carbothermal reduction is. Typically it is carried out at high temperatures in an inert atmosphere, often using nitrogen or argon gas to prevent unwanted oxidation. The process involves solid-state reactions, meaning the reactants are in the solid phase. Elemental carbon, usually in the form of graphite or charcoal, is indeed used as the reducing agent in this reaction.

The process generally begins with the careful weighing and mixing of the elemental carbon and Black Iron Oxide (Fe3O4). They are then heated to elevated temperatures, generally ranging from 800°C to 1300°C. At these high temperatures, elemental carbon reduces Fe3O4 to produce elemental iron (Fe) and carbon dioxide (CO2) or carbon monoxide (CO).

The overall balanced chemical equation for the reaction involving carbon and Fe3O4 can be expressed as follows:

3Fe3O4+4C→4CO2+9Fe or

3Fe3O4+4C→4CO+9Fe

During the heating process, the carbon and Fe3O4 react at the boundary layers of their respective particles. The carbon dioxide or carbon monoxide produced escapes as gas, leaving behind elemental iron and a stabilized iron-carbon compound, often denoted as C Fe3O4. So, to summarize, elemental carbon is used, the reactants are mixed and then heated in sequence, and the result of the process can be captured by the balanced chemical equation given above.

This type of black pigment (CI 77266 + 77499) is highly valued in the semi-permanent makeup industry for several reasons. It is non-magnetic, has a very opaque, rich black color, stable, and fairly easy to implant.

11. Conclusion


The cause

In summary, the appearance of "blue" pigment is really an optical phenomenon, not an intrinsic property of the pigment itself. In order to understand this, one must realize that objects in the world (i.e., pigmentation of the brows) have no inherent color, and what we see is dependent on the reflection, retro-reflection, and light scattering (Mie scattering in the case of pigmentation).  From the sheer physical aspect, Channel Carbon Black's small particle size (90-100nm) reflects bluish or violet wavelengths due to its optical characteristics.

However, when we add the Tyndall effect, where the unabsorbed blue wavelengths stand out, the pH of the skin, and the human factor of implanting, we can conclude that the highest danger of pigment looking blue is related to the highest implantation quantity of the smallest enough particles that absorb all other lightwaves but blue. That makes the pigments that contain CI 77266 Carbon particles produced using the Furnace method from petroleum oil (Black 2, which is also rich in hydrocarbons and more compatible with skin pH) ultimately the most prominent cause of blue pigmentation both in brows and in eyeliner, especially if it is implanted in a similar way as Carbon Black pigments with larger particle size (Thermal Black) or mineral pigments.

The solution

To counteract this, three main strategies can be employed:

  • Using larger elemental Carbon particles in the pigment, even creating a "pseudo-hybrid" form by adding Thermal black to the mix, to alter its optical behavior.

  • Using Iron Oxide Fused with Carbon, especially in eyeliner applications (often labeled as CI 77266 + 77499).

  • Opting for mineral pigments or hybrid pigments that contain larger Carbon particles (500 nm+), such as Thermal Black.
 
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Comments
 
Sintha
Sunday, Nov 05, 2023

This is one of the best articles I have read on the subject. Many quite complicated concepts are explained well. I personally would like more long format stories like that.

Liza
Wednesday, Nov 01, 2023

I agree, I would never go for petroleum-based black in brow pigmetns, I have seen the results in my clients brows and it is absolutely insane! It can be worst than a tattoo, I can tell from my experience!


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