The Truth about PMU Pigment Manufacturing

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1. Background

This article is based on interviews with 21 pigment artists specializing in powder brows, hair strokes, microblading, and lip blush. All the artists whose observations contribute to this article have either developed their pigment or have extensively researched the subject. Additionally, insights for the article were provided by two experts from Powderbrows.io, the digital media division of the Powderbrows.com Research Center, focusing on developing and manufacturing pigments.

The goal of this article is to offer practical guidance for novice artists. It aims to help them understand the pigment manufacturing process and how to approach the development of their pigments.

3. White Labelers

Simplifying Brand Creation

White labeling is the most prevalent method among those aspiring to present themselves as pigment "manufacturers." This approach simplifies the process for artists or entrepreneurs looking to launch their branded products without delving into the complexities of pigment production. Partnering with a company that already possesses a comprehensive pigment production setup - including the production formula, bottling, packaging logistics, ingredient sourcing, and overall production management - allows for an efficient entry into the market.

The essence of white labeling lies in branding: the original product's label is replaced with the newcomer's brand, transforming the product's identity. For instance, an artist or entrepreneur can purchase a well-regarded pigment available at a specific price in bulk and then rebrand it under their line. This bulk purchase arrangement benefits both parties; it enables the seller to offer the pigment at a more attractive price due to the larger volume sold and allows the buyer to adopt an independent pricing strategy. Crucially, rebranding under a new name typically involves a mutual understanding between the seller and buyer to not disclose to the end consumers that the product content remains unchanged.

This strategy empowers the artist or entrepreneur to market the product under their unique brand, tailoring their marketing and pricing strategies to fit their business goals. In the simplest terms, an artist, acting as a "brand owner," purchases pigments in bulk at a discounted rate. They then add their profit margin and resell these pigments under their brand name, positioning themselves as "manufacturers" despite having no direct involvement in the pigment manufacturing process.

For many established pigment brands, entering into such white-label bulk purchasing agreements typically requires an investment ranging from $5,000 to USD 10,000. While the cost to the white labeler is higher than if they were directly mixing or manufacturing the pigments themselves, the primary advantage is the minimal risk involved. Essentially, the artist pays for the pigments labeled with their chosen brand name, allowing them to enter the market with their product line without the complexities and risks associated with actual pigment production.

4. Mixers

A Closer Look at the Second Level of Pigment “Manufacturing”

The term "mixers" refers to a specific category in pigment "manufacturing," where the manufacturing concept is applied quite liberally. In this scenario, an artist or a business entity provides a formula, ingredients, and sometimes even packaging materials to a company equipped with the machinery for mixing these components. This company then blends the ingredients according to the specifications, bottles the final product, and applies labels as directed.

At this stage, the "manufacturer" is essentially the individual or entity that orders the mixing and bottling process. This approach to production involves more risks and complexities compared to white labeling. The entity commissioning the work is responsible for ensuring all colorants and ingredients comply with the legal requirements of the territory where the product is formulated and sold.

Regulatory Oversight and Geographical Considerations

In countries like China and other parts of Asia, regulations regarding ingredients tend to be more lenient. Consequently, the production company that performs the mixing may not take responsibility for or show much interest in whether the final product meets the legal standards of other regions. This responsibility falls squarely on the shoulders of the "manufacturer" who orders the mixing service.

Contrastingly, the United States and the European Union (EU) regulations are often stricter. For instance, the EU's REACH regulations impose rigorous standards, making it challenging to sell pigments mixed in the US or Asia within the EU without ensuring full compliance.

Cost Implications and Risks

One of the advantages of this manufacturing method is the potential for lower final product costs compared to white labeling. However, this comes with increased risks. The entity responsible for ordering the pigment mixing must navigate the complex regulatory landscape of their target markets to ensure compliance.

Sourcing ingredients through the production company might simplify the process but typically incurs higher costs. Alternatively, procuring ingredients independently can reduce expenses but introduces risks related to quality consistency, logistics, and potential fraud.

In summary, while the mixer approach offers a more hands-on method of entering the pigment market with potentially lower costs, it demands a thorough knowledge of legal requirements and careful management of supply chain risks. This balance between cost savings and regulatory compliance is crucial for success in pigment manufacturing at this level.

5. Reprocessors

Nearing True Pigment Manufacturing

The term "reprocessors" describes entities closest to being actual manufacturers in the pigment industry. This level involves an artist or a company taking delivery of pigment ingredients in bulk—typically in large bags or barrels—and then undertaking significant modifications and processing of these materials. They might analyze specific components and utilize advanced machinery to purify the pigment ingredients, removing unnecessary or harmful elements. This process enhances the quality and properties of the pigments.

This approach is the pinnacle of pigment "manufacturing" because the entity involved assumes complete responsibility for every step, from developing the formula and sourcing ingredients to analyzing, testing, modifying, mixing, and bottling the product. This comprehensive involvement ensures high control over the pigment's quality and characteristics.

Advantages and Challenges

The primary advantage of this method is the potential to create a unique final product. The complexity of the production process and the modifications made to the ingredients mean that merely listing components on a label does not provide enough information for others to replicate the pigment. If the end product possesses superior qualities, it could become a long-term, profitable venture. Moreover, the cost of production through this method can be the lowest, given the in-depth involvement in every stage of the process.

However, this approach comes with significant challenges. There's a higher risk associated with taking full responsibility for the manufacturing process, and a considerable initial investment in resources is necessary to start production. Research and development costs are unpredictable, and the machinery required for tasks beyond basic mixing and packaging can be prohibitively expensive to purchase or lease.

The Ultimate Manufacturing Commitment

Genuine manufacturing commitment involves not just the processing and modifying pigments but also owning or leasing the necessary machinery for all production stages, including purification, bottling, and labeling. Given the strict regulations on cleanliness and hygiene in manufacturing facilities, owning the premises can be advantageous. Ultimately, entities operating at this level are the genuine manufacturers within the pigment industry. They possess the capability to offer white labeling services, thus serving as the foundation upon which other pigment branding efforts are built.

Thus, reprocessors embody the most authentic form of pigment manufacturing, combining in-depth technical expertise with significant investment in equipment and facilities. This level of involvement allows for unparalleled quality control and product differentiation, albeit with higher risks and initial costs.

6. Reality Behind “Manufacturers”

Many novice artists and consumers might not realize that most brands they use are classified as "White-labelers" or "Mixers." These brands often rely solely on outsourcing their pigment production, focusing on the mixing and bottling aspects without owning the actual manufacturing facilities or even rigorously testing or modifying the ingredients.

The issue arises because the end product from all three levels of "manufacturing" appears identical, enabling each to craft a similar narrative for marketing purposes.

The Quintessential Origin Story

This narrative is practically the oldest in the pigment manufacturing industry. It usually features a protagonist - often the artist or brand owner - who recounts years of relying on certain pigments with unwavering belief and effort, only to eventually recognize that the results (particularly long-term outcomes) weren't optimal. This realization marks the beginning of "The Story."

The narrative describes "years of development," significant financial investments, and a trial-and-error process involving consultations with chemists, doctors, and cellular biologists. This journey is portrayed as leading to creating a groundbreaking product that revolutionizes the permanent makeup (PMU) world. The tale culminates in the "discovery phase," unveiling a unique and superior pigment that delivers unprecedented results for clients.

The Issue with the Narrative

The credibility of this narrative largely depends on the manufacturing level being discussed. While "Reprocessors" might have some basis for their claims - despite often greatly exaggerating the extent of their development and testing efforts - when it comes to "Mixers" and "White-labelers," such stories verge on fabrication.

This is particularly true for "Mixers" who might enter the industry with noble intentions only to realize that creating an original and compelling pigment is exponentially more costly and complex than anticipated. Attempting to produce a "dream product" with minimal or no ingredient modification can result in prohibitively high production costs, making it unfeasible to market or sell the product at a competitive price.

Therefore, the manufacturing process involves balancing multiple factors, requiring compromises to achieve a legal, relatively safe, effective, and competitively priced product. This complex equation underscores the challenges and realities of pigment manufacturing in the PMU industry.

7. Optimization problem

A Perspective on Optimization in Pigment Manufacturing

In established pigment manufacturing, companies with years of experiene and extensive operations are less prone to engaging in illegal activities or making significant mistakes in their pigment formulations. This stability is mainly due to the stringent standards and regulations governing the industry, coupled with the significant consequences of non-compliance. The likelihood of an individual artist uncovering and rectifying major malpractices of a well-established manufacturer, thereby transforming the industry, is minimal.

Creating a pigment formula is an intricate and nuanced process. It transcends the goal of producing the safest possible pigment or instigating an industry-wide revolution. Various factors, such as the cost of ingredients, legal restrictions on certain substances, and consumer preferences and perceptions shape the development process. Manufacturers are tasked with finding a harmonious balance among these elements to devise a formula that adheres to quality and regulatory standards, resonates with consumers, and enhances profitability.

It's crucial to recognize that the primary objective for most manufacturers is not solely to create the safest pigment conceivable. A more grounded goal is to formulate an optimal recipe that secures their market position and maximizes profit margins over time. This insight is valuable for artists, enabling them to sift through the marketing narratives presented by these companies and make informed choices about the pigments they utilize in their work.

8. Understanding Marketing Rhetoric

Exploring Pigment Ingredients and Marketing Strategies

In the competitive landscape of pigment manufacturing, companies often leverage marketing strategies that focus on the ingredients of their products, sometimes casting a shadow over the potential negatives of alternative substances. The narratives crafted by these manufacturers are significantly influenced by the specific components they incorporate into their pigments. For example, a manufacturer utilizing iron oxides might emphasize the carcinogenic risks of alternative ingredients, thus framing their product as the safer choice.

On the other hand, manufacturers that exclude iron oxides from their formulations might highlight the disadvantages associated with iron oxides. It's not uncommon for manufacturers to alter their marketing stance upon changing their product formula, suddenly promoting the new ingredients as superior and minimizing the importance of those previously utilized.

The critical insight for artists is recognizing these marketing narratives' selective and strategic nature. Manufacturers often selectively present information that best serves their promotional goals, potentially omitting a balanced view, especially when it involves discrediting components that competitors legally use.

Thus, artists should maintain a critical perspective toward such marketing claims. Acknowledging that the primary aim of these narratives is to enhance the product's appeal is crucial. Artists are encouraged to look beyond persuasive marketing tactics and base their decisions on thorough research and their professional judgment. This approach allows them to navigate the marketing rhetoric effectively, ensuring informed choices grounded in their expertise and experience.

9. Decoding Pigment Labels

Understanding the Color Index Strategy

Discussing the number of color index numbers (CI codes) on pigment labels often sparks debate among artists and consumers. Yet, grasping the rationale behind these labels is essential before quickly judging a product's quality or efficacy.

Pigment manufacturing is a nuanced process, far from the simplistic image of a "color scientist" randomly combining colors in search of the perfect blend. The strategy behind pigment labeling often aims to protect the product's unique formula from competitors, ensuring a company retains its market advantage.

It's a common misconception that a pigment listing multiple CI codes on its label will necessarily result in undesirable color shifts, such as turning gray. This assumption overlooks manufacturers' complex legal and marketing strategies, including adding additional CI codes.

Numerous CI codes on a label do not inherently indicate a product's inferiority or an oversight by the manufacturer. Nor should this be sensationalized on social media as a groundbreaking discovery. Instead, this practice is often a calculated part of a manufacturer's marketing strategy, informed by sales data and A/B testing to gauge consumer response.

Manufacturers invest considerable effort in analyzing market trends, understanding consumer preferences, and tailoring their strategies to enhance their product's marketability and competitive edge. Therefore, the quantity of CI codes listed on a pigment label should be interpreted within this larger strategic framework rather than viewed as a straightforward quality measure.

10. Less can be better

The Reality of Pigment Mixes

The adage "more is not always better" holds particularly true in pigment mixes. Some manufacturers might boast about their extensive range of color mixtures, claiming they have developed upwards of ten or more "ideal" combinations that purportedly heal without undesirable color shifts to red, salmon, blue, purple, or ash grey. Yet, feedback from experienced Powder Brows artists, who utilize pigments from various sources, paints a different picture.

No universal "perfect" formula guarantees flawless healing across all cases, nor does a more extensive assortment of pigment mixes inherently offer a superior advantage. In practice, many seasoned artists find that a selection of four to six distinct pigments suffices to create all the necessary color combinations for their work.

This suggests that caution is advised when a manufacturer highlights the sheer quantity of their pigment mixes as a key selling point. This marketing angle might be targeting less experienced practitioners, hinting that these products may not meet the expectations of seasoned professionals.

Ultimately, the effectiveness of a pigment is determined by its quality, compatibility with the client's skin type, and the proficiency of the artist applying it. The variety of mixtures a manufacturer offers should not be viewed as the sole indicator of product quality. Recognizing this helps artists navigate marketing claims wisely and maintain a focus on achieving excellent results for their clients.

11. Harmful Components - within limits

Navigating PMU Pigment Safety

When selecting pigments for permanent makeup (PMU), it's critical to be aware of the potential presence of harmful substances. Certain heavy metals, for instance, can pose significant health risks if their concentrations exceed safe levels. Although these substances are only required to be listed on pigment labels when their content surpasses legally allowed limits, having a fundamental understanding of pigment types and their possible harmful components is vital for every artist concerned with client safety.

Channel Black Pigments (Black 6): Channel black pigments, or Black 6, may include small quantities (1-2%) of heavy metals. The health risks associated with heavy metals range from skin irritation and allergies to more severe outcomes like neurological damage or cancer. Therefore, verifying the source and safety standards of your pigments is imperative.

Thermal Pigments (Inorganic Black 7): Thermal pigments, also referred to as inorganic Black 7, can contain residual ash. Although the ash is not inherently harmful, it can carry trace amounts of dangerous heavy metals depending on its origin. These traces could pose health risks similar to those of Channel Black Pigments.

Furnace Pigments (Black 2): Furnace pigments, known as Black 2, may include carbon-related elements (Nitrogen or Nitrogen). While Nitrogen itself is generally not harmful, certain forms and compounds of Nitrogen could potentially present health risks if not properly processed and handled.

It's crucial to recognize that these points offer a broad overview, and the actual safety of pigments largely hinges on the producer's manufacturing and quality control practices. Always prioritize pigments from reputable manufacturers who strictly comply with safety standards and regulations. Being informed about these potential hazards is a crucial aspect of your development as a Powder Brows artist, empowering you to make informed decisions for the well-being and satisfaction of your clients.

12. ” Tested on Animals" Explained

Unpacking the Marketing Claim

The declaration "Not tested on animals" frequently asserts among pigment options, seemingly reflecting an ethical standpoint. However, understanding what this signifies in the pigment industry is crucial.

This claim indicates that the final product or pigment has not undergone direct animal testing. This scenario is expected because the individual ingredients within the pigment likely have been subject to extensive animal testing by their initial manufacturers. Hence, the pigment producer can circumvent direct animal testing while adhering to safety standards.

It's vital to acknowledge that such claims might not truly reflect an ethical decision by the manufacturer but rather serve as a strategic marketing approach. If animal testing were necessary for market expansion or the development of new products, a manufacturer's main focus would likely be on how to uphold or modify the "Not tested on animals" claim within their marketing narrative.

Moreover, the concept of animal testing for cosmetic pigments is often misinterpreted. It doesn't inherently involve inhumane practices. While harsher forms of animal testing are unfortunately used in broader scientific, medical, and chemical research, the tests related to cosmetic pigments are generally less severe.

These tests typically involve applying the pigment to a shaved area on an animal's skin—commonly rabbits, guinea pigs, or rats—and monitoring for reactions or irritations, known as a dermal toxicity test. Additionally, eye irritation tests (Draize tests) may be conducted on rabbits to assess if the product causes adverse effects upon contact with skin or eyes.

Nonetheless, it's imperative to understand that even these less severe tests do not condone the use of animals in testing practices. The goal should always be to minimize and eventually cease all forms of animal testing, transitioning towards ethical, scientifically approved alternatives.

In essence, when encountering claims like "Not tested on animals," it's essential for Powder Brows artists to grasp the broader implications. Awareness and advocacy for transparency, ethics, and responsibility are vital in navigating the industry conscientiously.

13. Conclusions

In offering practical guidance for artists on the pigment manufacturing process, this article outlines essential considerations for those looking to understand or venture into pigment development. Here are key takeaways.

As an artist, understanding the different levels of "manufacturers" in the pigment industry - white labelers, mixers, and reprocessors - is crucial. Each represents varying degrees of involvement in production, from branding pre-made products to entirely manufacturing pigments.

White label

If you're considering entering the market, partnering as a white label allows you to brand and sell pigments without engaging in manufacturing complexities. This approach requires minimal risk, but be prepared for investment costs between $5,000 to USD 10,000.

Mixers

As a mixer, you'll have more involvement in the production by combining ingredients to create pigments. This method offers the potential for lower product costs but comes with increased risks and the responsibility to comply with regulatory standards.

Reprocessors

Reprocessors represent the highest level of pigment manufacturing, taking charge of every step from ingredient sourcing to bottling. This approach allows for unique product creation but requires significant investment and bears higher risks.

Be mindful that many brands in the market may not directly manufacture their pigments, often outsourcing production. The end product might look the same across different manufacturing levels, challenging the credibility of marketing narratives.

Consider safety, cost, legal restrictions, and consumer preferences when developing pigment formulas. The goal is to create an optimal recipe that balances quality with profitability.

Evaluate marketing claims critically, especially those emphasizing ingredient benefits or ethical stances like "Not tested on animals." Understand these may be strategic rather than reflective of actual practices.

Pay attention to pigment labels, including the number of color index numbers (CI codes), which can be a marketing strategy rather than an indicator of quality.

Remember, more pigment mixtures do not guarantee better results. A selection of four to six pigments can suffice for effective color combinations.

Be aware of potentially harmful components in pigments, such as heavy metals or residual ash, and prioritize products from reputable manufacturers adhering to safety standards.

Finally, approach animal testing claims skeptically, understanding that "Not tested on animals" may not exclude prior ingredient testing and doesn't necessarily reflect ethical manufacturing practices.

This comprehensive overview aims to empower artists with the knowledge to make informed decisions in their pigment selection and development endeavors, ensuring both quality and safety in their work.

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