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2. Needle Properties

Understanding Needle Theory

In the realm of pigmentation, understanding needles can often seem like one of the most overly complicated topics, second only to pigmentology. Many trainers allocate extensive time to this subject in their courses, sometimes even two hours or more. While it's possible to discuss needles and needle cartridges at length, this approach can be less than ideal. Why? The explanation is straightforward: despite the seemingly endless array of combinations and variations in needle properties, an artist will only regularly use and must be familiar with a very small selection of these.

Basic Markers on Needle Packages

Each needle package typically includes four basic markers:

Diameter of the needle
Number of needles in the cartridge
Needle formation in the cartridge
Taper length (short, medium, long).

An example of the string of letters and numbers indicating these four properties could look like this:

30 1 RL MT

Next, we shall deconstruct those properties - diameter, count and formation and taper - separately.

3. Diameter

This refers to the width of a single needle within the cartridge. Common diameters include 20 (0.20 mm), 25 (0.25 mm), 30 (0.30 mm), and 35 (0.35 mm). The diameter is measured at the needle's shaft, which is the widest part, not the tip.

Important to Know About Diameter

The larger the diameter, the greater the pigment flow into the skin. For powdering techniques, a larger diameter can easily result in more saturation.

In creating “pixels,” the size of the dot or pixel correlates with the needle diameter. A larger diameter needle creates larger dots, while a sharper, finer needle produces smaller powdering dots.

When considering various "secret" techniques and special moves, it's important to remember that needle diameter is just one of many factors in pigmentation. While it visibly influences pixel size, its overall effect is not drastic in the grand scheme. However, it can be said that many artists often prefer thin needles (such as 0.25 mm diameter) for fine pixelation.

4. Needle count and Formation

Number of Needles

This indicates the total number of needles within a cartridge, influencing the number of punctures made with each stroke of the machine. Needle counts can range from 1 to around 20-25, offering various textural effects and coverage options. Cartridges with a single needle are commonly used for most artists working on powder brows.

Formation (Grouping)

This aspect describes the arrangement of the needles within the cartridge. It essentially defines the positional relationship of the needles (when more than one is present) to each other.

Key Formations:

RL (Round Liner). Optimal for creating precise lines and detailed work.
RS (Round Shader). More appropriate for shading and creating softer lines.

Additional well-known formations:

F (Flat)
MI (Magnum)
RM (Curved Magnum)

These additional formations cater to specific textural and shading requirements. It is easy and fast to cover large areas and deliver a large amount of color to large areas. Many artists point out that Magnum needles allow lots of pigment to be implanted, especially if the artist applies little pressure to the handpiece. The positive aspect of this is that fewer passes are needed to cover the skin, causing less trauma. If one is not experienced enough and applies pressure, it is very easy to over-saturate the skin with needle formations that contain more needles.

The number of needles must always be considered in conjunction with the formation, as this combination greatly influences the final results. For instance, "liner" formations bring needles together to target a singular point, whereas "shader" formations spread them out to cover larger areas.

Round Liners

RL cartridges bring needles to a single point, producing crisp, precise lines. This is especially useful for artists who specialize in detailed line work. RL needles are used for contouring and shading in powder brows, known for their precision and substantial pigment deposit. Their circular, closely seated arrangement reduces vibration. A single needle (1RL) is particularly effective for fine details, embedding more pigment into the skin.

Round Shaders

RS cartridges align needles to create broader, less defined lines, ideal for shading and more tolerant in application. RS needles are organized in a broom pattern, providing less precision but effectively dispersing pigment. The greater the number of needles, the more dispersed the pigment, resulting in a slower deposition rate.

Formations in simplest terms

In a Round Liner cartridge, the needles are arranged to point toward a single spot. This focused arrangement makes RL ideal for fine, precise lines. The needles form a circle but converge at a point, making them perfect for detailed work. In a Round Shader, the needles are spread further apart, placed more loosely, but still form a circular shape. This formation is less focused than the Round Liner and is used for shading effects. The dispersed arrangement of the needles in RS makes it suitable for broader strokes and a softer look.

Those both differ principally from the Flat Cartridge type, where the needles are aligned in a single straight row, or from the Magnum cartridges, where needles are arranged in two rows.

When referring to needle markings and formations, it's important to note that a single needle, like in a 1RS, is correctly referred to as 1R. This is because there isn't an actual formation that a single needle can have. Thus, the term “1R” is often used when referring to this needle.

Important aspects of needle amount and formation

For powder brows, the following applications are typically the following. 1RL: Used to create front pixelation and along the edges. 3RS/5RS/7RM(CM): Occasionally employed to add shading to the body of the brow, more common in classic powder brows.
For Soft powder brows, 1RL is usually used for the entire eyebrow, with 3RS sometimes added for a more defined lower edge.

One should also consider that round line needles cause more pigment to be implanted faster. Starting artists sometimes underestimate how much pigment gets implanted with that type of needle, especially if organic pigment is used.

Observation regarding single needles

When it comes to needle markings and formations, it is correct to refer to the 1RS needle as 1R, as there is no formation that a single needle can have.

5. Needle Taper

The taper of a needle refers to the length from the needle's point to where it maintains a constant diameter. Different types of tapers affect how the needle delivers pigment into the skin and the resulting skin impression. Common tapers include the following.

Short Taper (ST): Traditionally 1.0 mm, but it can be 1.5-2.0 mm in modern cartridges.
Medium Taper (MT): Traditionally 1.5 mm, but modern variations can be 3.0-4.0 mm.
Long Taper (LT): Typically 2.0 mm. Some modern cartridges extend to 5+ mm.
Double Long Taper (DLT): Usually 2.5 mm.

In older tattoo machine cartridges, these measurements were considerably larger and still vary among manufacturers.

Key Points About Needle Taper

Short Taper. A short taper needle penetrates the skin more quickly due to its wider part reaching the skin sooner. It creates larger holes, delivering more pigment, but can cause more skin trauma. In powder brows, short taper needles are used to create larger pixels and a quicker pigment flow. Some artists prefer them for pendulum movement and whip shading. However, for Soft Powder Brows, many artists lean towards medium tapers.
Medium Taper. Generally, medium taper needles are not as sharp as long taper needles, create less trauma, and are preferred for sensitive skin. They make smaller pixels than short tapers and are often chosen for balancing pigment delivery and skin trauma.
Long Taper. Long taper needles leave smaller holes and deliver less pigment, resulting in less trauma to the skin. They offer more control over ink distribution, allowing artists to build layers for a smoother blend. Long tapers are often used for precision work, such as creating hair strokes.

Choosing the taper

While taper measurements can vary, choosing a needle based on the basic properties above is usually sufficient for most applications in semi-permanent makeup. Each taper type has distinct properties that influence how they carry ink into the skin, impacting the overall effect and skin response. Selecting the appropriate taper is crucial for achieving the desired outcome while minimizing skin trauma.

When it comes to pigments, short taper and medium taper are often the preferred choice for non-concentrated, thick pigments. Many artists suggest using a long and double taper for liquid, tense, and hybrid pigments.

6. Needle Span (Needle Hang)

Needle span, often referred to as needle hang, is the distance the needle extends from the cartridge. Although this can vary depending on the machine's properties, the typical span for effective work is around 2mm.

The Impact of Needle Span Length

Too Short Span. If the needle span is too short, it tends to deliver a lot of pigment to the skin's surface rather than implanting it effectively. This can result in large areas being superficially covered with pigment without adequate implantation into the skin.
Too Long Span. Conversely, a too-long span means the needle might not pick up enough pigment from the cartridge. This often leads to skin damage, as the needle fails to deliver pigment effectively into the skin.

Practical Perspective on Needle Span

While some trainers delve into intricate explanations of the “perfect needle span,” many seasoned artists suggest that issues with inadequate or excessive spans become apparent almost immediately during application. Let us explore those two cases.

Inadequate Span. The artist would notice excessive pigment on the skin's surface without proper implantation.
Excessive Span. This is characterized by “dry lines,” where the needle damages the skin without depositing pigment. Continuing to work with an excessively long span, despite seeing its ineffective results, would be a significant oversight.

Thus, while understanding needle span is important, experienced artists often learn to adjust intuitively based on the immediate results they see during the procedure. Recognizing the signs of too short or too long a needle span is a basic skill, allowing the artist to make necessary adjustments for optimal pigment delivery. Without any tongue in cheek, it can be said that it does take monumental ignorance to keep trying to create powder brows with just “dry lines” or oversaturating the area with too short a span.

7. Machine Stroke Height

Differentiating Stroke Heights

It's essential for beginning artists to understand machine stroke, which is often categorized into three types. However, different manufacturers may have varying measurements for these categories. It's important to refer to the actual millimeter measurements for precision.

Short Stroke: Typically ranges from 1.8 to 2.5 mm.
Medium Stroke: Generally falls between 3.0 and 3.5 mm.
Long Stroke: Starts from around 4 mm and above.

The Significance of Machine Stroke

Machine stroke refers to the depth and force with which the needle impacts the skin. The choice of stroke affects the pigment deposition and overall effect on the skin.

Higher Stroke (e.g., 3.5 mm). It penetrates deeper, being more invasive, but allows for an efficient color deposit, resulting in a powdery finish.
Lower Stroke (e.g., 2.0 or 2.5 mm). Offers a gentler approach, suitable for softer effects, but might necessitate a longer procedure time. The stroke should be adjusted based on the client's skin type; for example, mature skin may benefit from a softer stroke.

Key Considerations Regarding Machine Stroke

Stroke height is a feature of the pigmentation machine, not the needle cartridge. Incorrect matching of needle cartridge and machine stroke height can lead to inadequate needle amplitude, resulting in either too short or too long needle span.

Stroke Wheel and Motor Placement

Contrary to some misconceptions, the physical placement of the motor within the handpiece doesn't impact the stroke height. The stroke height is actually determined by the diameter of the motor's stroke wheel. The engine's rotation is typically geared, making the motor's physical height irrelevant.

Debunking misconceptions about motor height

Some trainers mistakenly attribute stroke height to the placement height of the motor within the handpiece. This misunderstanding demonstrates a lack of basic physics knowledge and experience with the internal mechanics of pigmentation machines. For example, in certain models like the Xion, stroke wheels can be manually exchanged without altering the motor's position, illustrating that stroke height changes are independent of the motor's physical location in the handpiece.

Thus, understanding machine stroke height is crucial for semi-permanent makeup artists. It influences how the needle interacts with the skin, affecting the pigment implantation and overall outcome. Artists should be aware of the technical aspects of their equipment to ensure optimal results.

8. Basic Needle Movements

While needle movements are not directly properties of the needle itself, they are essential for a comprehensive understanding of semi-permanent makeup techniques.

Pendulum Movement

This movement involves the needle entering and exiting the skin in both directions, similar to a pendulum swing. For beginners, practicing pendulum movement is beneficial. However, in powder brows applications, many artists find it less effective for achieving perfect pixelation.

Whip Movement

Whip movement is a fundamental technique where the needle touches the skin in one direction and then 'flies' back to its starting position without re-contacting the skin. This technique allows for precision and control. It can be categorized into two types: whipping towards oneself (where needle contact with the skin is visible) and whipping away from oneself.

Many experienced artists recommend whipping towards oneself for better visual control. There is a belief that whipping away deposits more pigment while whipping towards deposits slightly less.

Etching Movement

The needle continually moves forward in the skin in etching, creating crisp and clear lines. Unlike other movements, the needle doesn't leave the skin during this process, resulting in a significant amount of pigment being deposited. This technique is especially useful for defining sharp, clear lines.

Circle Movement

Circle movement involves creating small, circular motions where each new circle slightly overlaps the previous one. This technique is particularly effective for packing substantial amounts of pigment into the skin.

It is also commonly used for injecting larger quantities of substances, like saline-based removal gels, to intentionally oversaturate the area.

Understanding these different needle movements is crucial for artists, especially those new to the field. Each technique offers unique benefits and suits different aspects of semi-permanent makeup application. Mastery of these movements will significantly enhance the work's quality and the clients' satisfaction.

9. Machine Speed

Matching Device Settings to Technique

The speed of your PMU device should be aligned with your hand speed and the specific outcome you aim to achieve.

Slower Speeds. These are best paired with slower hand movements. This combination effectively creates more visible pixels, achieving the desired effect in techniques like pixelation.
Faster Speeds. Require quicker hand movements to prevent over-pigmentation. This is crucial for maintaining the integrity of the design and avoiding excessive pigment deposits.

Dispelling Myths About Machine Speed

In the PMU industry, there's a tendency for some trainers to promote "secret" machine speeds as the key to perfect results. As an artist, it’s important to approach these claims with skepticism. Often, these claims are more about gaining engagement or viewership than providing genuine advice.

Given the diversity of machine types, with varying settings, battery operations, and connections to power units, there is no one-size-fits-all advice for machine speed.

Example of Power Units

For instance, with popular power units like the Atom series from Critical, many artists find a setting of 4.8-5.2 volts effective for powdering. However, even this is not universally applicable as the outcome also depends on the type of handpiece used with the power unit.

Therefore, understanding and adjusting machine speed is a nuanced aspect of PMU practice. It requires artists to consider their own technique, the procedure's specific requirements, and the equipment's characteristics. Rather than adhering to generic “secrets” or universal settings, artists should focus on developing a feel for how machine speed interacts with their style and the tools at their disposal.

10. Nozzles

Difference between cartridges and nozzles

In the world of semi-permanent makeup, needles used in pigmentation machines are not always in the form of cartridges. An alternative to cartridges is nozzles.

Nozzles These are needles fixed directly to the machine, distinct from cartridges, as they do not have the classic ink provision system surrounding cartridge needles.

Characteristics of Nozzles

Nozzles, sometimes called S-type or T acupuncture needles, are known for their precision in creating detailed work. They are especially effective for producing very fine, thin hairstroke lines, making them a favorite for detailed and intricate designs.

Many artists find that these nozzles, being tightly held in the machine, allow for a smoother flow of pigment, enhancing their usability for filling in small details.

However, it's important to note that nozzles are not typically suitable for shading work. Their design and functionality align more with precision line work than broader shading techniques.

Thus, while cartridges are commonly used in semi-permanent makeup machines for various techniques, including shading, nozzles offer an alternative focused on precision and detail.

11. Conclusions

Every typical needle cartridge package contains basic markers, such as diameter, number of needles, needle formation, and taper length. These markers are foundational knowledge for selecting the right needle for specific techniques.

The diameter of the needle, for instance, influences the flow of pigment into the skin, with larger diameters causing more saturation.

The number of needles and their formation, from Round Liners ideal for precise lines to Round Shaders for softer effects, dictate the texture and finish of the work. An artist should know those properties, whereas for powder in the powder brows procedure, often single needles are used (25 1 RL MT, for example).

The concept of machine stroke height, often categorized into short, medium, and long strokes, is instrumental in determining the depth and impact of the needle on the skin. Understanding that different machines may have varying definitions of these categories underlines the importance of referring to actual millimeter measurements for accuracy.

Regarding basic movements, we discussed the following. Pendulum - beneficial for beginners, involves the needle moving in both directions, though less effective for pixelation in powder brows. The Whip - allowing for precision, entails the needle touching the skin in one direction and returning without re-contact. Etching - where the needle continuously moves forward, deposits significant pigment, and is ideal for clear lines. Circle movement - involving overlapping circular motions, is effective for packing pigment and is used for injecting larger quantities of substances like saline-based removal gels.

An additional aspect is the distinction between cartridges and nozzles. While cartridges are commonly used for various techniques, nozzles offer a precision-focused alternative, particularly effective for fine, detailed work like thin hairstrokes, albeit less suitable for shading.

When it comes to machine speed, it has to match the artist’s hand speed. Dispelling myths about "correct" machine speeds, this article emphasizes the need for artists to develop a sense of how machine speed interacts with their style and the tools at their disposal.

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Comments

Larissa

Thursday, Jan 18, 2024

I think that all quality depends most of all on my own actions with the machine. I you can do the procedure well then I think you can do it almost with any needle, but I agree that you can make very good work even more perfect that you just can not do with bad needle. I use one company and is very happy that this company now started sponsoring me! :)

Candice

Thursday, Nov 23, 2023

Fantastic article! Really appreciated the detailed breakdown of needle types and their uses in the procedure. The explanations on needle movements and settings etc are so good. Thanks for sharing such insights! I am artist my self and there is so much bs at the training sites so that I googled and ended up here – it’s free and much better explanation, I think!